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If we ever got Mario minifigs using normal minifig heads then they could reuse the past cmf minifig animal head masks such as the fox or make new molds that cmf collectors would like to have. The mushroom people could have custom mushroom hats that you could easily use with bricks to make plantlife as well. The turtles would be built with similar TMNT shell backpacks etc. I think they made a neat series of megs figures that are east to play with, but they would go much further with the brand in minifig scale. The castle, ships, etc could still work with the figures if they use a similar tech like lego dimensions. That is where they could use chips in there that read with a sound display box or interact with some electronic hub inside plants or a pipe instead of making the figures the electronic device.

The designer interview said that it is hollow inside and can fit a flag pole stem in it. The designer asked other designers if a part like this would be useful eith the curved back vs the square one and agreed that the angle range would make sets easier to design.

That is one option I will try because it still hides the quiver , but doesnt affect the cape This was the solution I did without pressing against the fabric.

Barnes and Noble in Akron Ohio just put out a fresh box of Series 23 and 24 today. I snagged 3 falconer knights, 1 orc, a carrot costume, a turkey costume, and 2 yellow castle knights. I didn't grab more than what I listed above. Happy hunting.

The LEGO store in Cleveland Ohio had a bunch of minifigures on day 1. They numbered several cases to give people full sets and single characters. The one on Crocker Park only had 3 boxes for the store and sold out before I arrived. Even though i was behind about 100 customers in the Beachwood location I managed to snag 6 falconer knights and 7 orcs out of 20 bags. 1 falconer and orc came from the numbered bags.

The page says the images are only stored for 2 hours. I suggest opening up a bricksafe account to store images. They are a great service to put your images of lego creations on it.

I finished the front of the gatehouse. It has changed a lot over the course of the 2 months. I am struggling with the back side of the gatehouse because I want it to be used when opened up in another configuration. The concept is maintain a similar shape of the original set. When you swing open the castle hinges you add on the expansion parts using clips and technic pins. The gatehouse originally was expanded into a 7 studs wide set of towers. Then I made them 11 studs. Once I did 11 studs I began building the dungeon and came up with the inner hallways idea. I then needed to expand the entire thing by 6 studs to make the dungeon line up correctly. This is why the entire thing went to 13 studs wide. The 36 stud wide gatehouse towers over the 28 stud wide set. The gate was too short and I needed a taller one. I moved the drawbridge forward 1 stud and curved it off with the 1x2 round plates which made it slide into the arched area, yet covering almost the entire inner gate. I left the subfloor the same height, but raised the ground level by 4 studs I think. This made the entire tunnel tall enough to fit a horse and knight easily through it with a lance and flag setup connected to the side of the saddle. I then raised the second floor 4 studs to give the towers a taller look. The side walls on the original set were a bit taller than a minifig on the ground level and I felt that they needed to be about 25 ft or higher like real castle walls. So proportionally, I made them about 25 to 30 studs high. With this said, the wall on the left that goes to the living quarters appear shorter, but in reality can be accessed from the second level based on the same level height as the gatehouse like most real castles. I still need to build walking platforms on the walls. I think those will be made from stone. I may move the protruded section with orange roof down a few studs to line up vertically with the door on the ground level. It will give me enough width to make stone platforms. I added the vertical lag designs from the 3in1 castle set. I love the simplicity of them. I may make the dark blue back to normal blue. I like the color contrast, but I think most people associate the bright blue with their flags. I may turn them black. The rocks are an extension of the set. I tried widening the caves and felt they would collapse under the sheer weight of the castle. I literally shoved them to the far edges without much change to the designs. The largest change I wanted to do was get rid of the panel in the front hiding the ballast from the drawbridge. The new drawbridge design has a huge 6 stud wide ballast and is 1 stud longer than the set. I think this will counter the new bridge design. I removed the 8x6 slope and placed 2x4 tiles under the new bridge design. There is just a stud height distance from the bottom of the drawbridge to the tiles. The new rock design feels more natural and I added a structre surrounding the hidden compartments on the right side instead of a tree. Trees were cut down around the castle to prevent invaders from accessing the walls. My revisioned history, The Lion Knights failed as securing the castle and the thriving Black Knights began reconstruction immediately to enclose access points around the caves. No more black bar windows in a prison cell looking into the cave. I The hideout is deeper inside the rock because of the new dungeon cells I added. The new dungeon contains 8 jail cells. There is a jail cell door on both sides for the pit below the drawbridge. They allow soldiers to kill the remaining enemies and access the pit for cleaning out the bodies. In the front of the pit are 2 new jail cells with windows facing the pit. This gives the soldiers another angle to attack the fallen enemies during battle. Another angle of the dungeon and first floor. Based on the various information about gatehouses. Many of the basic uses were dining and storage. The one thing missing from the set were arrow holes. I wanted to make this section a death trap. With this in mind I made 6 murder holes above the gatehouse tunnel. The struggle I have with the other part of the gatehouse I am designing. How to exit the gatehouse. The other side I have began working on is another porticullis. This would line up with the section above and exit the building to the ground level. This would give me a proper gatehouse design. The design would also include a stone stairways that spiral up the two towers. Both sides would have stairs going up from the dungeon designed like those tunnels on the front. I do not want the cells to meet each other. I think that this would give them an advantage point in case time of war and use one side for weapons and extra storage while the other side could be cells. I also debate whether I should redesign the dungeon and make one side cells and the other side partitioned rooms for storage without cell doors. Those holes with the 1x3 arches facing the drawbridge are suppose to act like a cross between murder holes and machicolations. Though they do not sick out from the walls, they funnel rocks or hot liquid onto the enemies attacking the main gate. I felt that they needed to be accessed from the second level. I created a sloped access hole on both sides of the front gatehouse that would shower down on their enemies in those pesky blindspots. The porticullis needed a stronger chain connection in my opinion. Not necessary, just wanted to use those awesome brackets. You can see the nice architectual designs each of those muder holes in the front of the gate make for the ground level. I think the inverted slopes help give the ground level some simple, yet effective design elements to the boring walls. The arches also help give the room a nice design. I know its hard to see but there are 1x6 arches connecting the larger arches near the walls as added design elements. They create a nice cross beam concept above the outer tower walls above the arrow slits. I like the centered arch design that creates a nice long beam to the rear of the room as well. A good connecting point for the arches and shapes the roof. You can also see I added a set of 3 vertical flags in the center room. I think it was quite boring in there and the vertical hanging flags add a nice touch to the room. The weapons racks are able to fit on the outer walls and such surrounding the top floor. I may build a few more for the other part of the gatehouse that needs built. The good part about the rear section for the new gatehouse is the face that I can copy and paste the front part mostly to the rear. The rear will not be as deep as the front, most likely be 9 to 11 studs deep instead of 15. I only need room for the gate and maybe 1 more arrow slit and set of murder holes from the second floor. The interior design is sorta already mapped out. The tower stairs are already finished. I just need to replace the front facing and connect everything. Maybe 3 to 4 hours of work. The gatehouse rear section will not have a door entering the ground level. I basically want to make sure the gatehouse doesn't have too many exits or entrances to the whole thing. You need to access the door on the ground level, go up the stairs to the second level, go across the floor through the 2 doors into the armory room. From there you can go down the stairs to the other tower into the dining room or basement to the dungeon. The second floor of the rear gatehouse will have a door access to the outer curtain wall in the rear. I think this would be the only area you can access that wall facing the harbor. Expanding the castle: The three layouts I keep referring to how it will work. Instead of relying on the castle using 5 wide towers I am using the basis of 11 to 13 towers. And in a few instances 15 studs. The problems I tested are those pesky 5 stud wide towers that use hinges to angle weird with the 1x3 and 1x2 wedge plates. If i double the width i get 10 studs. If I triple I get 15 studs. In order to fit within those parameters I need to make sactifices in some areas to make this idea work. I love that they figured out the flooring to fit these angles and such. But for me to use it I need to work with those concepts. I can use those angles for flooring rotated 90 degrees as well, which will mean I can achieve 7, 9 or 11 studs on the floors. Its a matter of reconfiguring the flooring, but it will work. So I can do 11 studs on 1 side. With this solved already, tested and such I can do many of these design elements you see in the layouts. Layout 1: The enlarged castle enclosed to fit the original set concept. You enter the gatehouse and enter the courtyard containing the barracks or small dining hall. The harbor fits inside the new design. The pier and platform for boats. You enter the arched bridge in the back. Layout 2: The Harbor fortress. You enter the gatehouse from the bottom. There are no barracks for soldiers here. For the tired traveler, you rest in the inn centered in the pier. You can also make port and enter from the pier side. The great hall sits in the rear, connects to the tower that resides the wizard above. The keep is large with a throne room and plenty of beds for the royal family. The dollhouse expands on everything to reveal the massive connecting castle on the lake. Swing open the parts and reconfigure the entire thing. Clips, technic pins and a little moving around pieces then the newly designed castle will be revealed. This will be a nightmare to do. I solved most the connections using plates and trying to solve the layout before building. I think most of it is figured out in studio. Color coded to each section. Hopefully I can get this solved in Studio. I think its about 8 to 10 sets. I won't know for sure how large, but I am thinking a lot of extra parts will be necessary.

Many of the newer forest guardian and viking parts are available on pick a brick. I grabbed 20 of each torso and green hat while supplies last.

good idea. I will take some shots. The gatehouse has gone through many changes, but I keep trying to take those changes and make conscious decisions to make it's construction similar to the set in terms of part placement. I will put together some renders over the weekend.

I purchased 2 sets from lego.com and another 4 off ebay without minifigures for about 250-$275 each. I noticed that the flippers have slowed down their initial resales on ebay since the product isn't out of stock. They want $900 yet you can buy 2 for that price at the store. The demand for castle is high among adult collectors, but not other age groups. I think that they sell enough to the castle fans and hit their numbers there because many of those fans purchase multiples to mod the set. The fact that the 3in1 castle is a hit and sold many over the last year proves people live the theme. They reach a smaller price point to those who want a smaller and affordable set. There are a bunch of adult builders who have purchased 3 to 8 sets and built larger models or mocs from these sets. You can properly build a simpler version of the 10305 set with 3 to 4 smaller 3in1 castle sets. This being said. I'm designing a huge castle on studio that will be about 6 to 8 sets. That's a lot and the fact ebay has people selling the castle without figures for 100 to 150 less than the set its a great price per piece count. I'm averaging 7 cents per piece right now in current purchases. 2 sets will make a great castle. There are a few people already showing those out there. One on rebrickable.com with a nice tower. I've decided to expand the set as a more practical castle installation. The gate house is twice the size as the set. The stairs and pier on the back is being reused in another section of the castle where I'll have am entire port. The keep will contain a throne room with the entire housing quarters as a 4 times larger section than the current residence. I want to make the entire thing open in sections like a dollhouse effect with each section connect similar to the original set that has 2 parts. I also am trying to design all these sections that are closed with dollhouse openings in a way that actually reconfigured with other sections. So if the gatehouse is open 180 degrees then you can place another section that is open 180 degrees and it doubles the rooms. So almost like 2 different gatehouse swing open and you can link them with pins or clips so it's one large gatehouse with 2 porticullises, murder holes and arrow slits in the tunnel section. The other tower and wall area would double in width as well when linked together and now make a nice tower or section to the castle. The residence area swings open and connects to another section that doubles the room sizes as well so it sort of makes each individual closed section nice independent areas or castle parts that can connect with clips like the set, but can swing upen then connect to the castle in a different way and make each room larger This is why it's taken me so long to solve gatehouse. Trying to think how it will be used 2 different ways. Then build a second gatehouse without a draw bridge that connects in the back of the castle, but van swing open and connect to the front gatehouse for a larger gatehouse. Goal is to have everything work 2 ways. I also decided to build stone staircase on one side instead ladders. I'm working these into the walls and such for the gatehouse and will likely be extra parts to buy to complete the task. The goal is to use all the 6 to 8 set parts with minimal cost for extra parts but I do know it's already going to occur. I'm replacing the thatched roof and wooden rooms with stone walls and towers. I will reuse the concept for the inn, soldier barracks, and small Smith shops and such around the castle as a village idea. The castle will serve as a functional stone fortress with no wood exposing on the sides. This will cause me to buy more parts I'm sure. That is why I'm designing this in studio first. The castle will be surrounded by water from a lake. No grass or land outside the walls so the entire castle will be built with rocks and stone. 2 gatehouse 1 dining hall 1 great hall/ throne room 1 residence castle section 1 stables 1 soldier barracks 1 inn 1 port entrance 1 port with piers 1 courtyard with tree 1 courtyard with fountain 1 courtyard with well near village section 1 chapel in keep Church in Bailey area Stone bridge with gate on other side.

I'm assuming that is what several ebay sellers are doing. I requested the option and they have ignored me. In all fairness the fact I got 2 sets for about 40 percent off. One did contain the shields used as decoration, but the second one didn't even include the horse cart or food stand. I'm not bothered when I have 2 unopened sets from lego.com sitting next to them. I would like to get 2 more sets. The current castle gatehouse is about 3 times the size of the set. It has 3 porticullises and based on a realistic castle gatehouse. The castle I'm designing will be practical. The gatehouse has murder holes and arrow slits inside the gate. The function will act the same as mist castles with a dungeon below and soldier barracks above. There will be a courtyard with the church, soldier barracks, inn, stables, and grainery. The keep will be the great hall, royalty quarters. I will keep most of this enclosed and tru to maintain the feel of the set. There will be several towers and a port that is enclosed with a gate. I'll share the drawn layouts tomorrow. These are not final, but helped me define the size.

I'm not sure if it's timing or luck but I snagged 2 castles off ebay without minifigures for under 250 each. I have two sets from the lego store and these two ebay purchases which have the booklets and original boxes. I think the 5 to 6 set concept I'm cooking up isn't going to be as expensive as I planned. I'll share some images soon. The gatehouse is taking way longer than I originally expected.

I think the roof looks good. That is a nice expansion.

I sent out all the emails and requests for the set. If you did not receive a link or want a link let me know. I will keep checking back. Not sure if its allowed to post the file publicly.

I need an email to send files.

I am emailing links.

PM for 10305 Castle Studio Download file. I built the LEGO 10305 Lion's Knight Castle in Studio if anybody needs the file. I ignored the mini figure builds and focused on the castle, merchant stands and cow cart. If you need this file to modify the castle let me know. I set the file up in groups. Many of the complicated sections or subgroups in the instruction manual were grouped in the file as I built it. I own two castle sets and purchased a 3rd set from Ebay without minifigures. Since I only paid $300, I double checked the parts and I found all the shields and weapons not built with the minifigures were still included in the poly bags. Now I can deconstruct the digital file and expand the set. That black tree needs to be relocated to a courtyard. I decided to modify the set and make it a Black Falcon's castle. Changes: The Gatehouse: 1. Widen the towers and walls 2. Raise the walls to 21-25 studs high for defense. 3. Add an outdoor walking platform on the front gatehouse above the shields 4. Expand the rear include a church, great hall, and catacombs. This will be directly behind the gatehouse and be entirely enclosed. 5. Relocate the tower with the stairs to the docks towers the back behind the great hall and church 6. Replace the dock tower with a larger defense tower The Courtyard: 1. The outer door from the gatehouse to the front walls will be removed. Murder holes will be added on both sides of the gatehouse. 2. Once the walls are raised to the next level up, the doorway will be located above the portcullis near the armory. 3. The section between the gatehouse and the living quarters will be wider and twice the depth. The great hall will have a rear entrance that leads to the courtyard. The courtyard will have a fountain and maybe some trees or garden. The Keep: 1. Widen the towers and walls 2. Raise the front walls to 21-25 studs high for defense. The tower with he dining room and living quarters will be raised proportionally to keep the invaders form being able to access the balconies 3. Relocate the stairs to the kitchen indoors. The entire living quarters interior will be rearranged. The dining room will become a solace. that has a hallway with stairs leading down to the kitchen. The same hallway will also have stairs leading to the sleeping quarters. There should be room to make 4 bedrooms and I may do another floor above that to incorporate a second level of bedrooms with a balcony overlooking the water in the back. 4. Add a gatehouse entrance to the living quarters from the courtyard. 5. This acts as the original keep. The keep will contain the storage and the treasury on the bottom level. The kitchen, service living quarters and dining area will be on level 2. Level 3 will contain the solace, guest rooms. Level 4 will be the royal bedrooms. Level 5 may be a attic. Outer Walls: (4th castle) Rear Dock: 1. The tower with the stairs leading to the dock will a outer wall defense. instead of making this accessible to the entire castle, I think it should be a section that requires two gates. The tower will probably be around 11 studs wide. The tower will lead to a narrow alley that leads to another door with another portcullis. This gate will probably be inside another tower that leads to the great hall section or courtyard. I am trying to figure out if I should lead the alley to the gatehouse and make the courtyard more difficult to reach. 2. Remove the treasury section. This will be part of the catacombs. Lower Gatehouse: 1. Outer walls that lead to a bailey. This area contains the inn, stables, and soldier barracks. I think the main gatehouse with the drawbridge leads to another gatehouse further down the path on the side where the original dock tower opens up to. This area has lower walls, maybe 15 studs high.

I am on step 439 of 629 in Studio. I couldn't find anybody with the file either so I began building it myself. I may have it done within a week. There are several parts not on the program, so I used placeholder ones for now. I think I have another 6 to 8 hours to build the last 200 steps in the program. Then I'll deconstruct and ungrounded whatever I did and begin expanding the set.

I ordered custom sails for my seven seas barracuda galleon. The custom order requested double sided red and white striped sails. I had to make the files, but they aligned and printed the sails out perfectly. The sails line up on both sides and you only see a scorch mark from the laser cut on the edges. They took. While to get my order complete. I will share final photos of my galleon soon. The order took a long time to make and ship out. I was able to work with them in emails explaining what I was doing.

Does anybody have the Studio file for this set? I started to build it and began to expand it, but saved over the file. I was wondering if anybody has the set finished in the program to use for expansions.

I am doubling the size. I got 2 sets. I am working in studio expanding every wall and tower. I wanted the gatehouse to have 9 to 10 stud wide towers. Then that idea examined the living quarters. And right now I am building the current set in studio from the pdf instructions so I can double to set and pull parts from one and add to the other. The ground level has now become the store room, treasury, and kitchen. The treasury has its own stairs leading up. The other room from the kitchen changed locations and leads unto the great room. The great room is about 16 studs by 24 studs now. There is a chapel next to it and the residence are adjacent. I'm working on making this section more like a keep that connects to the gatehouse section. The middle section between them is where I expanded to include the chapel. The great room will double in height and not have rooms above. The residence area will be next to it above the soldier/ knight quarters. The residence will be 3 floors above and next to a small chapel. This whole keep area will have a porticullis doorway leading to the gatehouse. There will be courtyard and another porticullis going into the gatehouse. The gatehouse will double in size and have a dungeon and catacombs section on the ground floor. The goal is to make this gatehouse expandable with an entrance to a Bailey or make this like a large keep and build a Bailey around it with stables, inn, residence for soldiers and service maids, etc. I may add a larger chapel in the Bailey for commoners and such to access. A third set should be enough to build a secondary wall or what Peter Keith is doing but smaller scale. I truly think his expansions without modifying the main castle set too much should exist with 4 sets.

This is what I am doing with my expanded set. I bought two sets and working on a studio file that uses towers with 10 studs wide instead of the 5 studs each has in the set. Mostly did this because the angled towers line upnwith those wedge plates perfectly doubling this. Anyways, the gatehouse is the one I'm working on next. Right now I'm working on interiors of the livable section. Book 1.

The larger swords are great swords and the smaller swords are called short swords. Great swords were larger and longer because they needed to reach enemies from horses. They ate usually two handed weapons wereas a short sword is used with one hand and easier to use with shields or spears.

I thought we were going to be young parents when my stepson (16) turns 18...wrong she wanted a baby in 2019 and instead got twins in 2020. So now I'm 16 years away from them being adults. That is why she said the basement is mine to use as my office and entertainment room.

Some people collect the modular city sets and build entire towns in their basement or attic. I plan on designating a 4ft table to castle. I don't buy many sets. The wife said I could have 2 4ft tables innthe basement for a display and that is what I'm concepting.