Out of Sight

I like how smooth and 'natural' it moves, much like a human arm. I always see an excavator as giant mechanical digging human arm. Although I also suspect it's operated by a good human too The other operators that matches the smoothness of this operator I think is Rien and Jurgen. Excavators are HOT, I love them, very versatile and acrobatic for their size. Ever search for excavators stunts on Youtube? The dumptruck is also the proper size too with loader sized tires, unlike the small and useless 8264 Hauler.

Not yet mate,I'd some unexpected things to do this weekend, couldn't find the time, cause it involves a LOT of grinding noises, swearings ( ) and epoxy fumes and stuffs like that. I'll be sure to get less than happy expressions from my wife and 2 y.o daughter. I plan to build it at a friend's workshop next week. In the meantime I plan rebuild the dipper arm tonight according to Jurgen's ultimate mod. All the stuffs I ordered from bricklink should arrive today. Combined with my modded bucket, it should look the part The boom will also be extended by 4L to give it a better reach and a better looks overall, since I've always thought the boom was a little short compared with the proportion of the whole superstructure.

If Lego made a huge supercar scale Unimog (1/8-1/10 scale), that would be possible to pack all the real funcionalities of a Mog. However with the current scale, it would be quite challenging. Check this link if you want to know about the real thing, maybe to spark some ideas for features that can be implemented into a 'Technic Unimog' As you can see the new mog is a VERY sophisticated machine! http://www.unimog-international.com/content/unimog_int/mpc/mpc_unimog_website/en/home_mpc/unimogs/home/system_unimog/showroom_by_model/u300_u400_u500.html

Alrighty then...I just need to find time to hack the bucket later this weekend. I'll post it up when it's done! I'm also working on a new bucket linkage to get the maximum tilting angle.

What I think a flagship should have is a fully remote operated function whether pneumatics or LAs. The tires on dokludi's creation are much better than the one on the official preliminary pic imo, but black wheels go better with them. The real Mogs run on huge 365/85R20 Michelin XZL off road tires. @davidmull Off topic a little..What Skyline do you own? I always love the older gen R30, and the c210. R32 are also my fav. The newest r35 I think doesn't have the 'soul' of previous Skylines..too many computerized driving aids. Ever considered making MOC Lego Skyline?

Anyway as a VERY LAST resort, this a photoshoped pic of the modified 10 x 18 bucket that is going to look after some hackings and fabricating to give you guys some idea. I tried to keep it as Lego-like as possible without adding any other elements. As you can see, the rotation point of the bucket is now level with the top of the bucket. I'll be hacking a used spare bucket in case I screwed up. I'm open for suggestions. Hmm..never thought about that. Although I'd prefer it in black..but yellow is acceptable. I'll consider it!

Guys, I've always wanted to build a MOC bucket for my 8043, the first time I had it assembled. I've considered using 8 x 10 such as Jurgen's ultimate mods, but I still find that bucket too shallow to look anything like a real excavator bucket. The 10 x 18 is just the right depth, but it's obviously too wide and the rotation point is clearly not suited for excavation as it will hit the dipper arm when tilted inward more than a right angle. I want my bucket to be able to tilt inward so much that I can lift loads at higher level without spilling them. I saw Efferman's 8043 boom mods but it seems to need a lot of modifications. I had thought about hacking the 10x18 bucket, cutting the center area and reattach the sides to have around 10 studs wide bucket and cutting the upper portion so the rotation point is level with the upper portion of the bucket. I have some experience,tools and skills in plastic scale model building, so I can easily convert it that way if I wanted, to a super neat factory finish. BUT, that would have Lego purists raining down on me. So do you guys have any reference of making MOC excavator buckets from Lego bricks? pics are welcomed too. Thanks

This looks like a minifig scale Technic..very nicely done for something so small.

I also 'accidently' triggered the clutch few times...but they didn't get out of sync to my knowledge. A difference of 0.1-0.2mm is inevitable somehow no matter how you've calibrated the bevel gears. But will not cause any issues since the boom has some degree of torsional flex, Although a difference of 0.5mm or more will cause some issues. But yeah it's good to back off the stick a little when the LAs are about to reach their maximum travel. If you need to reach maximum/minimum stroke, use the stick intermitently at the last 5mm of travel, this will ensure the LAs come to a dead stop at 'ease' and prevent the clutch from triggering. This is what I do anyway to prevent the clutch from wearing out too

Since I'm also into off-road RC hobby, these diff oils are not suited for LAs. Diff oils are used to actually give a limited slip effect as the diff unloads, which in theory 'binds' the gears. They come in varying thicknesses, Nitro RC buggies and monster trucks use a very thick oil that it literally needs to be spooned out. Utilizing these diff oils inside the LAs will add more resistance which we don't want. I personally had great success using RC silicone shock oils for LAs and gears. I use 10wt shock oil, as they're thinner and can sip through the LA's shaft easily. I recommend high quality oils such as Team Associated's. Note the higher the number, the thicker it will be. Here they are: http://www.amainhobbies.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=shock+oils

I like this set actually..but I wish it was bigger or bigger than the 8421. It's too small, hence the placement of the battery box. Lego needs to come out with the next big crane! A REAL big crane..the descendent of the 8421.

Since I got back into Technic this year (after 20 years of hiatus)..I haven't really had a chance to re-experience pneumatics. It was back in the early 80's when I played with Lego's pneumatic excavator. So yes the Unimog is highly anticipated, and exactly what I'll be getting once it's out on sale.

Legodude,you should make a new post concerning Lego Technic's current instructions, it would be interesting to see what others have to say too. I personally never have any problems with either the new or old instructions. Since kids and AFOLs who build Technics come from differing background and intelligence who might not have the engineering talent as yours, simpler instructions are more attractive for them, hence bigger market opportunity for Lego. Not all kids who play with Lego grow up to be an engineer...some boys who played with Technics back in the 80's during their childhood, might currently be in the "adult" film industries. Much like Lego bricks, they're also called 'studs' if you know what I mean..hahahaha

If you think that the 8043's instructions are too easy and consist of small steps..just skip some pages. That ought to give some 'challenge' I don't see why instructions with small steps will educate kids any less about how things should be put together. In fact, small steps will thorougly explain how a single piece of part can interlock others and form a solid construction..instead of kids wondering what holds what and where. And one thing must be considered...NOT all Lego buyers are seasoned builders like you AFOLs...some are totally new to Lego, and should one decided to buy the 8043 as their first Technic or LEGO, these small 'boring' steps as some of you refer to, will also introduce newcomers to each different Lego parts and what they do.

Guys, sorry for bumping up old thread, but I'd just finished building my 8265 (will be PF-ed soon) and noticed I have two extra gears left. A 20t bevel gear (tan) and one worm gear. I had gone through each steps to see if I missed anything..but none to my knowledge. The only use of a tan 20t bevel gear is on the front LA for the bucket. Worm gear..remains a mystery. Is there any particular use of these leftover gears on the stock model, or are they just mere 'extras'? Thanks

I've been doing some searches of the actual truck,they're also known as 'boom' trucks. However one thing I notice that on some trucks, the purpose of having the boom is to lift ballasts, usually concrete ballasts on top of the bed or the trailer to aid traction when pulling heavy loads. So seeing that the 8258 has a fifth wheel hitch, I suppose it's not a cargo carrier, it's actually heavy duty 8x4 tractor. David, you should lube the LAs too..I was surprised how much friction there was on the old LAs compared to the new ones when I built my 8265 loader. I used silicone oil.

That fast slewing speed is purposeful ...if...the owner removed the bucket and swap it with a wrecking ball to demolish buildings, usually attach to the end of the dipper arm on an excavator. If someone have the engineering and tools to modify the 2 left drive M motors faster, maybe close to 2000rpm while keeping the rest stock, we could have faster moving boom and dipper while still retaining a manageable slewing speed with a stock 9v battery box! Rien, can you do that? You seem the only one around here with enough 'guts' to hack Lego parts

WOW!!!Check out the digging depth of that italian guy, see how the boom is almost parallel with the superstucture?..I could see he moved the mounting point on the grey beam one hole to the front. Can anybody tell what else he did to achieve such digging depth just by seeing his video?

Although I'd just recently got back into Technic and only bought the 8047,8043 (updated late 2010 version) and 8265 these year, I'll try to give my own perspective: 1. 8043 ; very well thought of just having 4 motors to control six different functions. Yes despite the Ultimate 8043 mods that people have been doing, the stock 8043 was designed to use the least amount of motors and remotes to keep the price down while keeping the six functions intact. The ulitization of panels around the superstructure makes it one of the smoothest looking and realistic in any earthmoving machinery sets Lego had ever made..to the point that it's almost 'non-Lego-like' I'm not a fan of studded bricks, so the 8043's studless construction is 'perfect' for me at least. 2.8047 ; I don't know who designed it, but turning those knobs is actually fun and sees a swift movement of the arms. Simple things can be fun. 3.8265 ; the opposite of the 8047, turning those knobs is a chore. Again since it comes without PF, the initial price is very low, and you get a huge set for your money. Good for first timers who wants a bang for their money and having the option of upgrading it at later stages. The PF is also well incorporated in the whole design, and you don't need to disassemble the whole thing to install it. Most importantly, the PF battery box is concealed underneath which retains the aesthetics of the original model. I enjoyed every building process of each model that I own...but there's nothing like the 8043, where I enjoyed building and playing with it occasionally..makes me feel like a kid again!

I like the overall design, perfectly captures the Willys. But yes, the suspension would be more accurate with a rigid live-axle setup instead of independent. Great MOC nevertheless!

Yea..somebody needs to address this issue to Lego. Although not a real big deal, I also observed the animation of the 8043. The boom,dipper and buckets are magically moved by invisible hands. The gears on the top are not even moving

I agree. The p 79 step 35 IS NOT a mistake. As some had said, it's there to actually 'hold' the shifting mechanism to a degree as it has a lot of play. I haven't had problem with mine either. For a smoother shifting, I applied a dab of silicone oil on part number 407456..I don't know what it's called, it's a tan colored sleeve with three notable ridges that goes inside the driving rings. Everytime you shift the driving ring move about these ridges and locks itself. The silicone oil makes it easier for the driving ring to 'skip' these ridges. It only takes a blip of the controller stick for me to shift the mechanism from lock to lock. And yes good batteries are a must as the mechanism requires a good amount of torque to make a succesful shifts!

Thanks. I'll try your gear calculator. I'll be working on a fully remote 8265, I would like a super low gear combo for the driving wheels to get that scaled down realistic 20 km/h pace of the actual vehicle and some serious shoving torque, unlike some 'turbocharged' pace of the 8265 I saw on Youtube

At least 80% of the enjoyment we get from a Technic set is actually the building process. Which is why I love huge sets, and the reason we always 'crave' for a new set once the previous set is done. You should do the dual rear wheel mods to make the truck look more realistic. You can search this forum, I recalled seeing a post somewhere about it.

Maybe TLG knew (they should know, otherwise there could be mixed up) but they somehow remained secretive. Do you think the new LAs are specifically made just for the 8043? Or TLG will continue making the new LAs for future sets? Can anybody confirm that the new LAs are also utilized in newer Technic sets other than the 8043? I personally like how efficient the new LAs perform under load compared to the old one.