DarkShadow73

Hi - I recently built the 8460 Pneumatic Crane and it sort of uses the same setup with the back to back pneumatic cylinders as the 8421 does. If I leave the crane in the up position overnight, the cylinders somehow lose their ability to hold up the boom of both cranes. I am rather sure this has been talked about here. Is there a fix to allow the crane booms to remain upright instead of slowing losing air? I have all the tubing tight on all the valves, T-pieces, and the cylinders. Thanks for any advice.

Thanks, I'll give it a try. [/q It worked, thanks very much allanp. I don't know about how many fans have built this crane, either the original 8460, or the newer 8431 and 8438, but Lego really should have been a little more clear on exactly how to run the strings, and how to tie the knot or put it in place. That's one thing I don't like about Lego is the fact that they use very little to no writing to explain a more complicated step in a model, and the many, many years I've been into Technic I've rarely encountered anything I couldn't eventually figure out. I do realize they print the instructions and they are used for all countries and a lot don't speak English, but still...blow up the substeps to clearly show. If the parts we're not all black, including the string, then it would have been easier to do. I'm glad I am a member here and 9 times out of 10 can get a reply for something I don't understand clearly.

I cannot figure out how the loose end of the string attaches or ties on at the pulleys end. I've been having a real issue with this over 2 past nights and more than 3 hours of frustration trying to figure it out. I have the string through the main pulley w/ the black hook, then there is the assembly above it with another wheel/pulley. I can see where the string that comes out of the superstructure goes around the 4L liftarms with ends on them, but there is some loop you have to put in the string on the loose end of the string. I can't figure out how to make a knot with a loop open, all I can figure out how to do is put some loose over and under to make a loose loop. But, the big question and the instructions are extremely unclear as to what to do with the loose end with the loop. I tried tying it to the other side string (the one that comes out of the superstructure), but that didn't work. Doesn't help they used a yellow background and absolutely no blowup pic (as they didn't really do that in instructions on older models) as to what to do with the open end piece of the string. I'm completely confused, and am a seasoned Technic adult builder. The string in the 90's was so bad that it just frays and I've had to cut off small sections when I try different ways. On the 8421 Crane the open end of the string attaches to a perpendicular pinhole/axlehole part. Any help is very much appreciated. Thanks, Eric

My bad, I was tired when I wrote the msg, didn't mean to call it an MOC, yes it is indeed a MOD. I have 1000's of pieces to choose from, but I'm far from good at working with gearing and such. I just wish I could find someone who really made it work. Its fine as a grappler, but would be far better as an actual excavator, sort of like a smaller version of the 8043, but same scale as the 8294, which while a fine excavator it is, it doesn't have the 3rd LA to make it true to life. I rather figured the mini-LA wouldn't work as it is too small, but I even considered putting the bucket from 2 big backhoes(8455, 8069) on it, thinking the smaller size bucket might even look better. Its really too bad TLG hasn't produced a bucket in between that bucket and larger bucket it used on the 8294, it looked a bit odd for real breakout digging, but great for other purposes. I sort of was trying to copy the MOD with the 8294's bucket on the 8043 with routing the axle needed and the larger LA, but like I said I'm great at creating and modifying some models, but not as in-depth as this would be. I'm really surprised none of the masters in this forum haven't accomplished this as of yet since the 42006 was a 2H2013 release. Ah well, maybe I'll ask again from time to time. Thanks for the feedback from the 4 replies. As far as your reply ukbajadave, I'm not really crazy about that bucket as it is small, not deep enough, and like you said the curl wouldn't be enough to make it look realistic. To be honest, and please take no offense, I hated the 42004. It looked decent enough but when built even that bucket had hardly any curl. I tried and successfully put the smaller bucket used on the larger backhoes on the 42004, but when done it even looked a bit big, but operated fine.

The 8436 Truck from 2004 brought me out of my dark ages...it was brilliant.

I believe coming out of my dark ages in 2005 was a great time to reintroduce myself to Technic. I'm 41, and last time I was into Lego was when I was 11. I have quite the collection now as Technic was reborn in 2003, have just about every set besides the really small ones. Problem is room constraints, most all sets now are large, especially flagships. I believe my favorites are the 8285, 8258, 8265 and 42009. I enjoy the 42030, just wish there was a switch to turn off the RC function. Believe the 8448 and the 8466 rank up there as well. Hard to tell which I enjoy the best.

Real nice crane electricalchief...I also like the turning of the blade adding on to Tomik's design. Those liftarms in back are a bit odd, but like you said you wanted it to your liking.

Has anybody modified this model to use a bucket similar to the 8294 Excavator? Really they should have named the set Grappler. What I want to do is remove the grappler claws and use that 3rd boom for a true excavator, I guess you could call it 'C' model. Just wondering, it is the right color scheme and even though the 3rd LA is a mini-LA, can it be done? If anybody has modded it, any instructions? Thanks in advance. EDIT: and yes, I have built Tomik's bulldozer MOC out of the set, its brilliant, too bad it isn't RC. I asked him if he had any plans to modify it for a bucket attachment and a while back he was considering it, but scrapped the idea.

Ok, that wasn't the brightest move replying to a topic that had 21 pages, nobody would see my question. So here it is again: The creator of the mod and the link to the file, had to delete the small pic, the whole post looked way out of alignment if it stayed: My questions/comments: Sorry to repost this since it was over 3 yrs ago, but I just recently built the 9395 Tow Truck, and have JunkstyleGio's instructions for the hinged wheel lift. So, I hunted up the extra parts that he said we're needed, then I built the lift the way Lego designed it, then started on the mod, but am stuck on Step 2. It shows what look like 2 ea 7L red liftarms added to bottom of the step as well 2 black friction pins, but not indicated as needed for that step? It does show on Step 5 you need 2 additional 7L liftarms, so do you need a total of 4 ea of that part then? Then on Step 3, it looks like on the bottom of the step where the wheel lift is, it looks like 2 - 2L thick red liftarms we're added between the red 7L liftarms and the 3L axle joiner w/ center pin hole?? Or, are they 2L w/ pin hole and axle hole? I don't recall having any set with this part in red, only black, LB gray and DB gray colors. Then on Step 7, it looks like you need 2 ea of 2L thick liftarm w/ pin hole and axle hole in DB gray? I am guessing some parts weren't indicated as needed, as per Step 8, but those 2 extra parts are obvious, the blue axle/pin and the 3L red axle and pin connector w/ 2 holes. Could JunkstyleGio or anybody who has used this mod please concur on the things on the extra parts I might or might not need other than what was indicated in the instructions. Thanks much.

Sorry to repost this since it was over 3 yrs ago, but I just recently built the 9395 Tow Truck, and have JunkstyleGio's instructions for the hinged wheel lift. So, I hunted up the extra parts that he said we're needed, then I built the lift the way Lego designed it, then started on the mod, but am stuck on Step 2. It shows what look like 2 ea 7L red liftarms added to bottom of the step as well 2 black friction pins, but not indicated as needed for that step? It does show on Step 5 you need 2 additional 7L liftarms, so do you need a total of 4 ea of that part then? Then on Step 3, it looks like on the bottom of the step where the wheel lift is, it looks like 2 - 2L thick red liftarms we're added between the red 7L liftarms and the 3L axle joiner w/ center pin hole?? Or, are they 2L w/ pin hole and axle hole? I don't recall having any set with this part in red, only black, LB gray and DB gray colors. Then on Step 7, it looks like you need 2 ea of 2L thick liftarm w/ pin hole and axle hole in DB gray? I am guessing some parts weren't indicated as needed, as per Step 8, but those 2 extra parts are obvious, the blue axle/pin and the 3L red axle and pin connector w/ 2 holes. Could JunkstyleGio or anybody who has used this mod please concur on the things on the extra parts I might or might not need other than what was indicated in the instructions. Thanks much.

Funny, I've been waiting for the 42039, but maybe it hasn't been released in the USA yet? Many times TRU has a lot of sets available right before Xmas, but so far it isn't even on the their website here. EDIT: Upon checking Brickset, I see according to their info, 42039 hasn't been released in US or Canada yet. At least we got most of the 1H2014 sets on time, instead of waiting until summer like last year. Just a thought on gears, in most cases I've found that bevel gear against bevel (mainly 12T bevel against 20T bevel, or 20 against 20 or 12 against 12) tends to produce more noise, and grinding noise than standard (16T) gear against another standard or a 16T dk gray clutch gear. That's been my experience over the years. The old 8T gears we're much more prone to slippage, therefore grinding than the newer, reinforced style. Just my .02 worth...I've never had much problems with single bevel against single bevel.

Huh, have had the 8421 for some time, but the 'b' model really didn't look that impressive, and it seemed like an impossiblity to get a Technic figure onto the platform cause it didn't come all the way down to the bed of the chassis. Now that I'm seeing a full photo review, which is very well done indeed, I might just have to build that version. I hate taking apart Technic, chafes your thumbs and index fingers, especially in the dry skin season in North America, luckily I took apart the crane a long while ago. After finishing a couple MOCs I will be building this. I've always thought, even with the issues with pneumatic cylinders not being able to hold the crane boom up for more than a day or so, that the 8421 rivaled the 42009 in many respects, or maybe its just nostalgia for me since it was the first big Technic set I bought. One thing about the 42009 is one would have thought with the many PF elements available that by now we could have a mobile crane where the superstructure turned with a motor rather than by hand since technology has come a long way since 2005.

Yeah I guess I should have looked. I have a friend who alerted me of this possibility, but I hadn't been on the forum in a while, basically until right before Xmas to find out what was being released for 1H2015. Now I can't even begin to sell my 8041's without drastically reducing the price. They had shot up due to demand since early 2010 release and I too thought it was a cool set, even if it had no real 'playability' except just a nice shelf model. I also would have thought they would have gone with some different coloring too, I love that Castrol model. Funny thing about those rims, and I noticed this even when they released 8041 back in 2010. The wheels pictured on the box, on the instructions and in the inventory of the set are not the ones that came in the box, at least not in the 2 I've built. Those wheels are cooler looking. Same deal with the 8048 Dune Buggy set, it should have had the same rear wheels, yet same deal. I know every 8041 I have says limited edition, much like 8081 Cruiser. Yet, they we're in stores for a long time and although without checking Brickset, I don't know how long a run they had, neither is really real special or has lots of features. However, like Paul said, I did apply most of the stickers and I usually don't do that in many sets due the aging process of decals. If you don't apply them the truck looks real plain.

I'm sure this has been discussed recently, but I wonder why Lego re-released the 8041 Race Truck? The model, while it looks cool enough, doesn't really have any functions except turning front wheels and a V8 engine. That's an odd set to come back, kind of blows me out of the water at BL with several 8041's I have listed since you can order the same kit just with a new set#. I would think they would have released any of a dozen very popular, high-ranking sets from the past several years. Am I the only one who thinks this is kind of strange? I'm sure it was easy enough for TLG to reproduce it since most of the molds/colors of the parts are still in use today. I do apologize for the new topic, just didn't want to take time hunting down another topic, or going through pages of pinned topics about new sets/feedback at the top of the page.

WIthout reading all 4 pages of this topic I can say that the instructions have gotten really too easy, sometimes 1 or 2 parts per step. I do agree on the 8258, 8043 and 42009 sets. They are complex, esp the gearboxes. One wrong move, and you have to dismantle. With complicated gearboxes I tend to check each movement of a string of gears, clutches, and such to make sure they turn the right way before continuing. I got burned on the 8043 by not doing that and I ended up pretty much dismantling half the rear end. I just glanced at a few replies quick, and as far as the pneumatics vs LA's issue, I believe that each has its own advantages and disadvantages. LA's are more smooth operating, whereas pneumatics, unless powered, are jerky and its hard to do multiple tasks at the same time and also keep pumping air as well. Case in point, comparison of the 42009 and 8421. The boom on the 8421 would go up nicely, but leave it for 24 hrs or even overnight and down it comes, same with the rear backhoe arm of the 8455, the main one that lifts the entire boom assembly. You can get it straight up, but within a day or so it sinks. I've found fixes for both creatively, but you have to remove the 'creative' pieces to use the crane again. Do I still think 8455 is my favorite Technic model, oh yes, it has style and lots of functions, but man could it use an airtank. The 8464 has one along with 2?? for my 8462 Tow Truck (unneeded), and both models work easier as a result without all that handpumping continuously. Whereas, the 42009 with the dual LA's goes up and stays up. I haven't built the 8110 with all the pneumatics, but it sounds like it isn't as complex as I thought it would be after glancing at a post on it. It looks that way though. And, like TheItalianBrick said and Jim concurred, someday my kids are going to get into Technic and say gee, that 42029 is really cool and ancient, whereas we look back at the studded age and say gee those are cool. I'm 41 yrs old and I love both studded and studless for different reasons, I still had an expert builder basic set I got in the early 80's for a present, but my bro and I had killed the parts pretty good so I tossed it, but we built many different models with our Legoland parts along with the Technic parts and it occupied us for hours at a time. I think studless is more complex, more parts to assemble, but the look is cleaner, more realistic, whereas studded models from the 80's and 90's just had a lot of really incredible functions too, even in some of the smaller models. And actually if you build a medium size studded set, the steps are longer, have more parts, thus smaller instruction manuals too, and they aren't as clear as the manuals in the past decade or so, many of those older set builds you had to think a minute because sometimes you installed an assembly on both sides, but one side may be different than the other, and it made you think. One such model I built recently was the 8443 Log Loader and it was a bit complex I thought, not a lot of arrows and spinarounds like they have in modern day instructions.

Thanks to both of you for your replies. I wasn't crazy looking at the 60051 set as it was. Its pretty bare bones, however the cargo train is nice looking and like Scheuejp said I can see a lot of extra track. I will look into the 7938 and 39. I see the 4561 from 1999 I had possibly wanted from a Bricklink seller has sold, that figures, that one is an electric 9V system that has a transformer to plug into an outlet and a handheld speed control, being so much older, no PF back then, but it is a nice set. One question about the 7938 and 39, as Scheuejp said, you have to manually put lights on the train rather than the light brick the 4561 set had in the loco. Are you talking about the PF #8870 LED light kit. Those are fairly common on Technic vehicles or can be added easily. Is that what you are talking of? Why would I need 1 control knob for the light. The kit has a 2x2 wired plate that snaps right onto a 2x2 input on the battery box, and given the room shouldn't it just come on with the battery box switch? Please be patient with me as I have no clue if Lego trains use the same PF standard elements (i.e.: motors, battery box, light kits, etc). I know the remote is entirely different than the smaller one used on RC Technic models. Thanks for any further advice on how PF trains work, and I will look into the 7938 and 39 that Legoboy22 pointed out. EDIT: I do see that the PF elements are totally different for trains as they are for Technic items, different batt box, motors that just power the wheels of the locos, and the remote (which I already knew about) after I checked inventory on Bricklink of the 7939 set. So, that being said, is there a way to add a light kit to the batt box which sits in the loco? I have a few #8870 light kits as said before.

I've always been into the Technic theme and in that forum, but recently got the bug with Lego Trains. I have a questions before I put out the cash for either the 60051 Passenger and/or the 60052 Cargo sets. #1 - Are both sets compatible as far as the track, car couplings? I see the cargo set has a lot more track which would help. #2 - Can you run 2 trains consecutively on different tracks. What I mean is, and I used to be into non-Lego model HO scale trains, is using switches be able to run 2 locos at the same time. Obviously with the controller, it looks like they both would have to be going the same speed I'm guessing. Using a series of switches and different runs (all interconnected), I used to be able to run 2 different trains w/ the same controller with my model trains. Additionally, can you back trains down deadend switches for parking freight or passenger cars, and what I mean here is, does the track layout have to be totally connected rail to rail to complete the circuit? #3 - Probably a dumb question here, but do the locos on both sets have working headlights? Being into Technic for so many years, I have tons of models that have LED light kits (item# 8870) I have either put on or came with a set. I am guessing each loco has a separate motor inside along with some sort of IR Receiver (also used on Technic for RC models). There's nothing like seeing a locomotive coming slowly down the track with its headlights piercing at you. I'd like to be able to turn the lights off in the room and be able to see this. It used to be light bricks with old Electric trains, now I'm guessing if their is headlights they are LED lights that somehow go back to a motor and battery box inside the locomotives (both passenger and freight for each respective set). Thanks for any answers to my questions, Eric

Personally, I like the 8466 is the better of the two. I love the military color panels. But, each have their own genre too, 8458 being a F-1 Racer and 8466 being an off-roader. I'm rather biased, not much into race cars, except for maybe the street racing car 8448, and I love off-roaders and 4x4's. I have the 8297 (not true off-roader, a Jeep replica in many respects), 8466, 8110, 41999, 9398, and I love them all, the latter 2 being RC. It would be nice if there was a motor/RC decoupler of sorts so you could move it around without using the remote, but that doesn't detract from the fun, and all are great builds.

42035 is a nice small-medium size truck. The thing that caught my eye we're the new angled yellow panels on the dump bed. Oops...guess I didn't look at the date when I replied. Now I see it does stretch all the way back to 2011...my bad. Have you been able to find an 8258? They can be found from Amazon Marketplace sellers, but at a premium now, possibly eBay. But, I have 5 of them right now still in the box and only have partially built one. I bought a bunch back when they came out in 2009. I did have one assembled but had to take it down when moving, so I'm just now rebuilding it. I had modified it some and one thing it lacked with PF was the LED light kit, so I added one and put the lights in the holes of the front end fairings, it lit up my bathroom, pretty cool. I own just about every Technic set that has been released since 2003, starting with the 8455 Backhoe/Loader and then the 8436 Truck, it revived my interest in Lego as a whole. Since then, I have pretty much every set with the exception a few of the smaller ones that didn't interest me, I keep my inventory on Brickset. I went retro as well and bought quite a few pre-2003 sets. I find all of them have their different interests to me, and some, esp in past couple years, amaze me for not only the massive amount of functions, but their good looks too. Then, I joined here and lurked for a while, reading other's posts and have built some nice MOCs and modified quite a few other sets, changed colors on certain parts of a set. Bricklink has been great for buying parts you need, although like many of you if I can get a good deal on a set that has many useful parts or some I need for an MOC I will part it out. I need to get some pics uploaded to show off some of my work. I'm no master, wouldn't even consider calling myself that, but I've learned a great deal here, and like many of you have also tried other's mods, I think the Ultimate 8043 is my favorite.

Some MOC designer made a huge version of the 8264 Hauler a while back, maybe 2013 or early 2014. It had full RC and was a beast. I tried searching it out and cannot locate the topic(s). I'd like to build it and wonder if anybody can point me to it as I'm not on here all that much and most times just lurk. I don't know if designer made instructions or a parts list for the model. That would be ideal in reproducing it. Thanks for any help.

$50?!? Where? Even though the price of a lot of classic Technic (pre-2003) has come down quite a bit, I've never seen a used 8466 for less than $170, even on Bricklink. I paid $400 for a new one in 2012. I have tons and tons of rare parts that I plan on someday sorting and selling on BL, and I've come to learn the basic gray/black turntable found in some many models in the 2000's is an expensive part to buy now?! Wow, I've got probably 20 of them from parting out sets for MOCs. And why in the name of all that is glory is the 8288 Crawler Crane that retailed at $50 in 2006 selling for over $500?!? And it was higher before the price on that started dropping as well. I can recall seeing some for $700-800 not that long ago. What is so superspecial about that crane? Everything is manually operated, the piece count may be high, but its mostly pins and just normal Technic pieces. About the only thing that is different about the pieces are the 2 boat weights to keep it from tipping over. I have 2 of them, 1 built, 1 new. Geez, maybe I should sell the 2nd one. I bought 2 so I could make both the crawler and tower crane.

Both are great sets IMO. 8069 is a large backhoe/loader chock full of functions. Back in 2003, in case you didn't know, the 8455 Backhoe/Loader came out and it was incredible. Fully pneumatic and very realistic. The 8069 looks very similar and is about the same size, but everything is manually operated with gearknobs, levers, but functions great, and suprisingly being a 2011 release the price hasn't risen much on the market. As far as the 8265, good luck getting a good price on it nowadays, they are worlds away in term of cost, but it is an incredible loader, but definitely get an 8293 Power Functions set complete w/ motor, battery box, switch, and LED light kit, unless you want to crank the gearknobs about 200x to use the front bucket. And, the alternate model of the 8265, a log grabber, is fun to mess with also. Like I said, both great sets, but if you want a great functioning model on a budget, the 8069 really delivers. Another great mention that came out same time as the 8265 is the 8258 Crane Truck. That's a fun one too, but costs somewhat more than the 8265 Loader, but the offset is motorization is included out of the box. Check out www.bricklink.com, its a great source and about the best prices, and many times you can find a good used one as well. Btw, as far as the 8053 set, I prefer the alternate Harbor Crane over the mobile crane version, but I also heavily modified the harbor crane, but even if not modified, its fun to watch the device on the crane grab onto the containers, one of the better alternate models. I had a heck of a time with the string staying on the pulley as it was reeled back in, and here again unless you motorize the mobile crane, its a LOT of cranking to raise the boom.

I allocated a reasonably priced new 8448 a month or so ago. I know you could power it to see the wonders of the transmission with the 8735(I think that was set#) Motor Kit and the 2 yellow jacks supplied. That motor and battery box got lost along the way in a couple of moves, but I was wondering if I could add just the simple PF battery box and an M or XL-motor to power it. I think there's enough room in the hatch area for the battery box and doesn't seem to me too much trouble mounting either motor in lieu of the old motor. Anybody ever tried it? Ultimately at some point I'd like to RC it, I have tons of PF parts in my collection, but for now I'm just wondering if it might be possible to just show off the tranny. I don't think it was an 8720 Motor Kit, seems too old since that kit was made in 1990, whereas the 8735 came out in 1997, close to release of the 8448 in 1999. Thinking more, the 8466 4x4 Off-roader I believe took that kit, but besides getting out the instruction manuals (I gave away an 8448 a few years back before buying another recently as said above). Any possibility as far as the 8448 goes? If it is possible, what kind of gearing should I use on the shaft I would put in whatever motor is possible. I also have L-motors too if more rpm's are needed to turn the driveshaft and tranny. And yes, I do realize I could 'wreck' my 8448 if I didn't use the jacks on the rear, otherwise it wouldn't be able to stop it as the battery box was separate from the car when I had it motor attached many years ago, but until it ran into an object it would keep going due to the PF battery box being installed on the car itself. Any ideas suggested are appreciated.

Like a couple others, I finally picked up an 8448 brand new thru Bricklink. Also, picked up the new sets 42032, 42035, 42037 and 42038 on Xmas eve, real lucky only 1 of each left on the shelf. What did you get doesn't always mean somebody else bought I guess as I paid for all these myself...but glad I have them.

Just replying to your comment on not liking the b model of 42030...If only Lego had included some panels to enclose the bed of the b-model, it would be great, but its a great looking front end with a skeleton in back...too bad really since it would have been fairly cheap I'm sure to design an enclosure of the bed similar to that of the 8264 Hauler.