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doug72

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by doug72

  1. doug72
    Thanks for the reply, didn't have enough of the 2 x 1 brick w/axle hole parts anyway. Doug
  2. doug72
    Siding Modules:- How reliable is the Type 1 siding module compared to the Type 2 module ? I have built the Type 2 but occasionally one train car fails to release, also the 8T gears on axle ends tends to rub on the end of the gear rack while a train is stationary. I am tempted to built the Type 1 to see if it is any better.
  3. doug72
    Check out the Lego Town forum for news and debate on this new set due for release soon. The track components might have GBC possibilities. Doug
  4. doug72
    Its te green background vieable through a small gap in the framing !! Found a sharper picture.
  5. doug72
    Unloader Mofule - Post transfered to: [GBC] Akiyuki Train System: mods and improvements.
  6. doug72
    Revelabitur in omni tempore.
  7. doug72
    My rendition of the Akiyuki train system, currently occupying the dining table !! Once testing is complete it will move up into the loft where I will be able to expand the layout and synchronise both trains to cross at the passing loop without one train idling for lengthy time. Don’t think I will ever have enough parts to build the elevator or rotary dumper. As for a crossover point at £89 - no chance. Modules used:- 1/. Unloader - sometimes struggles when batteries are running low or too many balls. Don’t have correct shock absorbers to assist the lifting. 2/. Loader - modified to use spare parts I have. 3/. Vee reverser unit - found to be very reliable. 4/. Through unit - initial problems getting it to work but finally resolved. 5/. Passing loop - sometimes fails to release other train. 6/. Turntable reverser by Jonas for 180 deg. rotation which replaces the ballon loop One thing I have learned is to follow the instructions exactly, difficult at times as only have a limited supply of studded parts - hence the modification to the loader conveyor using 3 x 11 panels. Also the trains seem to use up batteries quite quickly - both trains now use rechargeable batteries. Loader: at first I couldn’t get the belt to stop at the correct place each time balls had discharged into train hoppers. Found I mis-counted the number of track links and only had 47 instead of 48. Corrected and now working OK. Thought I had found a way to tidy up the PF cables by reorienting the battery box so the cable from PF plug did not need a sharp turn, didn’t work as the trigger on reverser for unloader fouled it and prevented ball carrier from being lifted. General view of layout: Loader: Based on Akiyuki instructions but modified to build with parts I had available. Still experimenting with the number and positioning of cross beams to carry balls on the conveyor belt.
  8. doug72
    I brought one of these a while ago to try and use as a turntable race for a large crane. LEGO Round Brick 13.667 x 13.667 Fabuland Hollowed (4750) in the end didn’t,t use it & got the Efferman T/T.
  9. doug72
    Post removed by Doug
  10. doug72
    Jonas - thanks for your design of the turntable. Further testing has revealed a few minor problems. 1/. When the train is on the turntable and rotating the rear axle 8T gear rubs on the end of the gear rack causing chatter and vibration. 2/ The retaining arm sometimes slips on the smooth 2L pin connector during rotating releasing the train before lining up with track again. Solution:- see photo Small wheel used instead of 2L pin connector, this shifts the train back slightly and prevents the 8T gear touching the end of the gear rack, the groove in the small wheel also keeps stopper arm in position until hits the bush to release the train. Stopper arm modified to ensure it stays in position holding the train until it hits the trip bush. Lower 2L red axle replaced by a short piece of brass rod to add weight to keep stopper arm vertical until it hits release bush. Rod is a push fit into #2 connector and the half bushes. ======================================================================= Z60 Turntable version - see photos Built as per your design except Z60 turntable used with a different gear chain to turn the turntable. Overall reduction from 8T gear on train axle end to T/T ring is 135:1 giving a good turning speed. Note, in order to squeeze in the gears the black 12 gear meshes with the grey 12T but is off centre. Maybe not 100% Lego legal buts works OK and there is very little free play in the T/T.is Overhead view: Underside View: r Close up of gearing: showing offset between the black & grey 12T double bevel gears. Parts required for 90 degree turn version: r Short video- Z60 turntable version at right hand end of track.
  11. doug72
    I have used the 13L version several times for MOCs and found them to be very stable. My lastest MOC would not have worked without using one. The 3D parts are white so I use a grey paint pen to colour them. Available in 11 / 13 / 17 L now.
  12. doug72
    Here it is:- Demonstration of turntable units. The un-loader & loader units are not fully built yet. The 180deg T/T replaces the ballon loop for the through unit. The 90deg T/T eliminates 1/4 circle of Lego track. Have also built a point reversing unit but have no room on the dining table to use it at present until transfered into the loft where I have a Lego train layout. Use of dining table as a test bed by kind permission of my wife !! PS I will post close up images and video of the Z60 turntable tomorrow. Still trouble shooting - have some issues with the end stops slipping and releasing train as T/T rotates before lining up with the output track.
  13. doug72
    @Jonas turntables:- Now built three of these. 1 x 180 deg turn / 1 x 90 deg turn to Jonas design. / 1 x a version using a Z60 turntable without worm gear, but took a while to get the gearing right to turn it at a suitable speed. Final reduction from 24T drive gear to T/T is 45:1 (8/24) x (8/24) x (12/60) These are very useful for building a compact layout.
  14. doug72
    Nice MOC - I like large cranes. Also like the use of two servos to get four steering modes - I should used have that on a MOC I built that failed but only had one spare servo. You mention yellow gear quadrants being too large and glaring - have you considered using the Efferman turntable componants ? They come in three sizes now and are very stable. Outriggers look very strong & powerful as well. Looking forward to the completed build.
  15. doug72
    I must admit this problem had been completly baffled, but the Problem now Finally Resolved:- Found the 1 x 12 plate on which gear racks are mounted was slightly bowed, changed and re-tested on my test loop track and both train units performed correctly whichever way they were placed on the track BUT then discovered the output to drive the loader was trapped UNDER the through unit, put into the correct position and once again trains failed to release. Note: Loader not yet built so output to drive it is not connected. Trapped output: Trains stop & released OK Output in correct position but not connected to Loader: Trains fail to release. Temporary resistance added to output to loader - trains now stop and release OK if grey 2L connector held stationary. Conclusion: Trapped output or when connected to loader unit provides the resistance to make train through unit work correctly.
  16. doug72
    Agree it is a very ingenious mechanism. Checked and all as you describe. The problem is that when first trigger releases the train them moves forward (sometimes very slowly, other times a bit faster) to 2nd. stop and train 8T and 24T gears still rotating. When trigger releases the train the 8T gear won’t engage the rack to move the train forward It has me baffled. Found that if I raise the module input end by 1 Stud to make slight incline downwards it helps. I am tried all three types of 8T gears, the newest seem to be the best to use. Also made sure the three rack segments are correctly in place.
  17. doug72
    Through Module: This is proving to very unreliable. Now built two train cars and have same problem on both but one is better than the other. Train car enters the Through module until stopped by the 1st trigger arm. When this is released the train car only slowly crawls forward to stop at the 2nd trigger arm and does not seem to have any traction force to make it move forward. When 2nd trigger is released the train car again won't move forward and the 8T gear on axle end just judders against the end of the 4L rack but not engage. There doesn't seem to be any drive to move train car forward between triggers. I have checked to ensure have everything correctly built and the train wheels are not binding. Any help appreciated. Doug
  18. doug72
    The reverse module V-type (Help) @Jonas Thanks for the tip to study the video. I was a bit dubious that I would get this to work as i didn’t really understand how it worked but after careful study of the video I finally managed to deduce the components required to build this module. Noticed on the video that the 5L beam link attaching to the slide that moves the point blade flexed quite a bit as it changed the point setting. Made a small MOD to stop this which prevents the 5L beam from lifting off the pegs on the slide that moves the point blade. Also added a longer 0.5 thin beam below to support the moving parts & used the old 4L universal couplings rather than the newer weaker 3L type. Tested and performs well. Parts use 2 x 1L beam / 2 x 3/4 pins / 1x 3L beam / 1 x 0.5 x 7 thin beam.
  19. doug72
    Thanks for your reply. Yes I have been watching & freezing the video. Also found if click the small images shown on the additional parts page they link to a larger view which I then used screen grab to copy then print - think I can figure it out now.
  20. doug72
    The reverse module V-type (Help) Can anyone advise the correct parts and possibly a close up image of this addittion to the revesing unit ?
  21. doug72
    Re parts list see Courbet,s reply to may same query in April. I just used the photo list to find and obtain parts, which, I Searched for and ordered using Brickowl. My modules will be multi coloured !
  22. doug72
    See this which includes pdf instructions and parts lists. http://akiyuki.jp/en/works/1019
  23. doug72
    @Leonardo da Bricki I entirely agree with your comments, I find this forum to be very friendly & helpful when you run into problems when building a new MOC. I to find WIP topics very useful rather than posting the final MOC. My latest MOC would not have ended up in its final form without the constructive comments, suggestions, and also LDD instructions for a critical item I was having trouble trying to find a way to make it work as required. Queries about why you have done something also welcome as they give you the opportunity to explain why or change the build. There is a vast source of Lego Technic & GBC building skills on this forum which are freely passed on to help other forum members with problems & advice. Regarding use Non Lego parts: I try to stay Lego legal as much as possible but when building large MOCS sometimes the use of 3D printed parts results in a functioning MOC rather than one prone to problems or are unreliable. 3D printed Turntables and worm gear boxes solved many problems during my previous MOCs Its your choice if you use them or not for MOCs etc. BUT for any Lego Technic contests then ONLY Lego parts are allowed. Happy building to all Forum members. Doug
  24. doug72
    WOW, look forward to seeing it action.
  25. doug72
    A MOC is never finished until you stop working on it ! When building a MOC I tend to build sub assemblies to test out geometry and gearing etc, and refine it before incorporating into the build. The sub assemblies I keep for a while to see if I can make any further improvement or can be used in the future builds. My last large MOC had interchangeable undercarriages, wheel or tracked. It is now back on the wheeled undercarriage but track version kept (for use on potential builds) and to be further work on to improve the subtractor unit & I have several Sub Units versions dotted around my Lego room. When ideas come into my head or someone posts solutions I try to see if they can be worked into future builds. During any MOC build I am always thinking what can I build next with the resources to hand. I keep recent MOCs & my favourites (especially my crane MOCs & self contained GBCs) but others are dis-assembled, to make room on my display shelves. Some sub assemblies are kept for new MOCs or improvement etc.
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