Cloveapple

I've successfully dyed Lego using RIT dye. However, the formula for RIT dye changed a few years back and no longer works well on Lego. So, if you are using the classic RIT powder in a box, it needs to be the older formula. (If you Google RIT and disc golf, you'll find message boards with the golfers bemoaning the change, because they used to use RIT to dye their discs and then it suddenly quit working. A couple other hobbies had similar experiences when the dye changed.) (edited to add: I did not use acetone, just RIT and boiling hot water. However the Fifty Shades of Bley guy appears to be using the newer, changed-formula RIT, so maybe the acetone is necessary with the new formula.)

How old are these students? Are they university students? (I know you said it was a university study, but I remember participating in a university study as a young kid.) I think their ages might change how much they can build with a 15-20 minutes limit on building. Also, how important is it that they be able to finish the whole set in 15-20 minutes? Would it be okay if some was left undone?

Hee, Hee. It's okay. I very much appreciate the help, even if it's not new info. I'm leery of color matching that starts with RGB light-illuminated computer screen colors and then tries to translate it to a physical color scheme (such as CMYK, Pantone, or RAL). There are ways to do it, but there's all kinds of things that can go wrong with jumping from computer colors to physical ones. I'm running a fever right now, so I won't try to spout a bunch of color theory I only half remember from school, but when I told a custom paint mixing place that the starting place for my request was an RGB color, the very first thing they said was that they couldn't guarantee the color would be what I expected. All of that said. It looks like the RGB is the best I have to go by. So, I'll probably try two or three of the closest colors. If I have any success, I'll be sure to post it on the color database thread. :-)

There is no way I can choose just one answer. I make MOC minifigs and mod existing minifigs. I make dioramas to photograph (though those are only partially Lego). I am using minifigs in my first photo comic. Then, another big chunk of my Lego are at work for clients to play with. (And sometimes I get to play with them.)

Eeep! Um, er, I mean, Yes! All Hail Lord DisneyTM! Celebrate I love DisneyTM! Day!

I'm enjoying watching this series grow.

I'm just checking if anybody has tried a paint or mix of paints that worked well for light flesh. Big plus if it's a brand available in the US. Edited to add: I don't have model painting experience. I've successfully altered minifig parts by dying them or cutting them, but I haven't painted them. That means I'm likely to make newbie mistakes, so any tips would be welcome. I have a couple balding heads from the grandfather collectable minifig. I intend to dye them orange to get the hair orange. (I've tested this on other ABS hair.) Then, I assume I'll need some sort of primer/foundation to cover the orange (which I'd need anyway over the yellow). Then the light-flesh toned paint goes on the skin area.

I'm guessing that the original picture illustrated the slang phrase that somebody has their head up their ***. The Lego version looks more like somebody with their head attatched to their leg.

The link in your signature is giving me an error message.

I did cut away hair as deeply as I could without having the whole thing fracture. (You could actually see through some spots in the little trenches I'd dug, before I filled them with chemically melted light flesh Lego.) I agree totally agree that this is a comb over, and *if* it had worked I had hoped it would look like a comb over used to hide a bald spot. I'd be ok with any type of balding, red-haired look. The books don't give an exact description, so I've got some room to experiment with different balding looks. This is the third approach I've tried, and obviously I'm not there yet.

"Doesn't look good" is a rather kind understatement! I hesitated to post the picture, but I figured seeing what could go wrong might be useful to somebody else. The "paint" was as thick as I could get it and still apply it. I wonder if there is always a very slight color bleed when using acetone, and the contrast between the two colors just makes it more obvious? It also might be worse because I was filling in a groove I'd cut instead of painting up on top of the surface. That might slow the evaporation of acetone and cause more color blending. I think the idea of painting it white first might do the trick.

It's a bit of a mess right now. At least I don't think this version works. It's an attempt at Arthur Weasley's balding hairstyle from the Harry Potter books. It ought to be an exact color match for his face, but it doesn't look it. (Plus it just looks messy.) I'm definitely going to try the melted Lego approach again, but for this hair I might have to go another route.

Light Nougat (commonly called Light Flesh) Santa's flesh delta creative acrylic paint almost exact match according to FlamingBrickfilms on https://www.flickr.c...N02/6036256411/ matte

The first three Star Wars movies were rated PG. Many many children saw Carrie Fisher wearing the original costume. I don't think any of us were scarred for life. Of course, if you think Star Wars is too much for kids, I'll certainly respect your opinion. (Kids vary in what they can handle, and parents vary in how they approach parenting.) However, if you do think Star Wars itself is okay for kids, then I don't understand objecting to kids seeing the costume. How is a you tube video of a woman in a revealing outfit more scandalous than a movie that shows the same outfit?

But does it suck the fun out of the experience *for her* If it doesn't upset her then it's a nonissue. I see I commented too soon. Is this only a problem when she builds pre-made sets, or does it also make her unhappy when she builds free form?

Those are ridiculously cool.

I'm working on a light flesh minifig that needs to be balding. I'm planning to use light flesh Lego to give him a bald spot. This is awesome news.

I found a usable blender, but, alas I will probably never find out how Lego blends. MAB shared a blade-free method. It looks like I m going to vault right over cutting up the Lego though and straight to the Po'lish Remover of Na'il Apparently I don't have to chop it up after all.

Holy.... that video is equal parts funny and disturbing. I had no idea a blender could do that. I don't understand how sandpaper would give me little shavings of Lego? Are you suggesting somehow collecting the Lego dust to use?

Ooops. Sorry to Andy D. I thought you were kidding. I had no idea a blender or food processor could tackle something like this. Thanks for explaining, Iria. Unfortunately, I've never used a Dremel, so I won't try that. I think I have a friend with a food processor though.

You truly hate my blender! (Though this would be fun to try if I had an extra blender to get rid of.) I'm using them to make a melted-Lego paint that will fuse with the Lego underneath it. I'd use it on the minifig I'm customizing. ( See http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=80574 to see somebody else's experiments with chemically melted Lego paint.)

I saw a cool MOC technique I wanted to try, but it requires Lego shavings. How would you do this? Here's what I've tried: * I (stupidly) tried shaving off bits with an exacto knife. I think you can all guesse how well that went. (Yup, I drew blood.) * I tried using a sharp food-grater that was designed to grate hard parmesan cheese or orange peel zest. It worked safely, and cut shavings off, but they were so incredibly thin and tiny that they clung to everything with static electricity or else floated off in the air. So you couldn't either pick the shavings up or pour them into a container. * I put some Lego round 1x1 tiles in a plastic bag and took a hammer to them. They flattened but did not fracture or break. ETA: This thread shows the technique I want to try: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=80574

You will be missed.

Ah pictures and words. That looks good. (A purely picture sign would signal an even older era before literacy.)

I think it's safe to say that Shakespeare (both versions) is indeed modeled on Shakespeare. ;-)