Karle

I this case I'm interested in using the codes for custom paint mixing. For water slide decals for American prototype 8-wide rolling stock and locomotives look at K-4, Protocraft or Micro Scale decals. OK Brickworks did excellent custom stickers at one time...

Can the RBG code be used to mix paint?

I used Plastruct Plastic shapes to build outside bracing. Unfortunately, I can't upload any picture's, files are too large.

Check out Jackie Chandler's Super Chief. The Rebrickable number is MOC-54251. The dome car looks very similar.

Good looking engine and tender. You seem to have channeled the spirit of Otto Kuhler, designer of the Milwaukee Road Hiawatha steam engines. I must confess I'm not sure what you had in mind with the design of the running gear.

The Maersk sticker sheet is available from Bricklink #10219stk01. You will, however, pay dearly for them. Calling an SD-40 the prototype for a Lego GP-something or other seems to be a bit of a stretch but okey.

You can get the correct drivers by going to Shape ways and then Shupp's train wheels. They have both boxpok and disk drivers.

Nothing as fancy as Dr Spock's rig, which I'm going to have to try. I mount an axle in a cordless drill, place a wheel on it and use a file and emery boards to profile the flange. Hard to see but the 1 and 4 drivers of each engine have been reprofiled. 90% Lego.

I do it to nearly all of my steam engine MOCs. Usually, about 25% of a pizza-cuter flange is filed away. To help prevent the truck from derailing the vertical movement must kept to a minimum without interfering with the trucks swing. The pivot point of the truck should be as close as possible to the lead or trailing driving axle and secured with an L2 half Technic lift arm to act as a double pivot to allow for lateral offset of the trucks. I must point out that my equipment is designed for a minimum 104 radius curve and the motors are mounted in the boiler. I Hope this helps.

It's a good looking model but why are the wheels on the front truck mounted backwards?

A very impressive model.

Try using 1- or 2-hole Tecknic bricks for your journal boxes and plates for the upper and lower frame rails. American building practice used open frames not solid plates. The T-bricks will allow you to get very close to the axle spacing your looking for.

If I'm looking at this correctly, this set up will not work. One motor will have to be turn in the opposite direction of the other and they cannot be cross linked. I've not used PU motors, but a PF motor is powerful enough to damage gears if there is a bind. Traction is the biggest problem with plastic wheels on plastic track.

And that is why, when asked if I build Lego trains, I tell them No I build trains with Legos. I have a Dream that one day Lego will come out with the couplers without the bumpers. On that day I can finally quit circumcising mine.

Try Scigrip Acrylic cement, I've used it on TB's turn outs and other ABS plastics without Issues. I prefer the 1.5 oz. tube for better control, but they do make larger tubes. I get mine locally from Tape Plastics, but Amazon carries it.