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Gonkius

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Everything posted by Gonkius

  1. Gonkius

    Older Than Dirt!

    Gonkius replied to Andy D's topic in Community

    I guess I'm qualified, turning 53 in a few days....
  2. Gonkius
    Supported! I love this show, viewed it on TV during the 70s and still view occasionally on DVD. Probably the best opening theme music ever in a TV show.
  3. Gonkius
    This clock shouts for an automatic wind-up mechanicsm! As you have a differential already, this should not be to complicated. A clock that needs to be wound after a few hours is not very useful to show the time... I really like to see how others solves all technical details that is needed to make a working clock in LEGO. You could use the official boat/train weights instead of the bottle, I have almost 700g in my clock and it's smaller than your beer bottle. I really admire your work to make instructions for your clock. I have not even considered doing this for mine: http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=113864
  4. Gonkius
    Fully agree on the large focus on fossile fuel driven engines/vehicles in the technic range, pretty boring actually. Perhaps you did see my mechanical clock that is wound-up and makes minor speed correction using a Mindstorms. https://flic.kr/s/aHskaUiuu2 http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=113864 One large group of technic MOCs is otherwise the GBC modules.
  5. Gonkius
    I've got a special design of a differential gear used to wind up the clock I designed. By using a differential, the clock will continue to work even when the wind-up motor is running as the torque to the clockwork will be uninterrupted.
  6. Gonkius
    Hmm... This seems to be a rip-off from the paper plane folding machine built by hknssn in 2014, see http://www.eurobrick...l=+paper +plane
  7. Gonkius
    Main reason was to have room to wind many turns of the string on the narrow wheel. The string I use is a thin Kevlar fishing line, very slim, strong and durable for static force compared to a normal nylon fishing line.
  8. Gonkius
    Great start. I will follow your attemps. Took me a year to complete my LEGO clock, perhaps it can give you inspiration: http://www.eurobrick...opic=113864&hl=
  9. Gonkius
    The problem that occurs, at least in the micromotor and the old technic motor showed in first post, is that the permanent magnets around the rotor disintegrates over time. The ferrite is not stable and you will get a magnetic powder that prevents the rotor to move. It is perfectly possible to disassemble the motors and wipe of this magnetic "powder" from the magnets and the motor will work fine again. I've done this on both kinds of motors. I don't know how more recent motors works over time (pf-motors), no issues so far.
  10. Gonkius
    I like this. Nice design and a really good usage of the "ancient" Chebyshev Lambda mechanism: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chebyshev%27s_Lambda_Mechanism
  11. Gonkius
    All PF motors, except the servo, doesn't have any electronics or switches internally. So there are no control signals available, only the middle 2 of the 4 wires are used. The servo motor however might be used as you suggest if a special wiring is done as this uses the power lines which are different from the control wires. At least this is how I understand how things works in the PF world.
  12. Gonkius
    Thank you everyone for all nice feedback. Right now I'm trying to design the same rocket in half scale, still a large build at about 50cm heigt. Plan is to keep all features to get the same smooth shapes and same appearance. It is not easy... But the final rocket will hopefully be much more stable, perhaps even possible to swosh! The large rocket needs 4 hands to lift without damages...
  13. Gonkius
    Ok, thanks for your feedback. I could make a few in parallel to increase the recharging time to 2,3 or even 4 seconds. I need to have enough energy to throw a ball about 1.5m height, so important to keep the moving mass as low as possible. I will do some experiments to see how many rubber bands or springs that are needed to store this energy. I dont like to bend axles as I suspects that these will loose its spring chracteristics after a while. Remember that a GBC needs to work many hours during a exhibition...
  14. Gonkius
    I'm working on a GBC module and need a shooting mechanism, your video was very helpful and certainly gave me some ideas. What principle would you recommend for a long-lasting mechanism with a capacity of 1 throw/second? Low noise and good repeatability of throwing speed is certainly a bonus. Direction of ball is extremely critical, but this has already been solved and will be handled after the throwing mechanism.
  15. Gonkius
    This type of anti-static carbon fibre brush works great to remove dust, even between the studs. http://www.monacor.de/en/products/security-technology/monitors-and-brackets/accessories/dc-200/
  16. Gonkius
    When I asked about fishing lines for my LEGO Clock, the store didn't recommend normal nylom fishing lines as they are not designed to handle static force. They recommended a special fishing line made of Kevlar fibres instead, this works great and is super strong, even for a very small diameter which was needed in my limited space available.
  17. Gonkius
    Welcome! Member of swebrick.se as well?
  18. Gonkius
    The error is in the range of 2s/h according to my measurements (Without correction). The actual adjustment done by the software is not known as I don't log this... I guess it is very sensitive to temperature changes, but I've not made any measurements on this. I'm investigating to use the Mindsensors real time module to get an even better time reference, but I need more data to tell how much correction that actually is used over a longer time. In the next software version I'm working on it will display more statistics regarding how much adjustement that was applied over longer time. The clock only runs a few days using batteries. I have now added an external power supply to run continously. Good idea to add a solar panel, (oerhaps the one that LEGO have done), I doubt it will be sufficient, but I will make some calculations. Here in Sweden, the days are short and dark during wintertime... BusterHaus: To be able to adjust the time mechanically, you would need a better mechanical time reference than the clock itself, that is similar to lift yourself in your hair... No plans for instructions, sorry, this would be really complicated, at least for the complete clock. Bút you have the pictures ;) If anyone would like to see any special details, let me know.
  19. Gonkius
    zver: The NXT don't communicate very well to the Internet, so an upgrade to EV3 is necessary to talk to a NTP server. timslego: I tried to cover the actuator, but I didn't manage to get a design that didn't look bulky. The hands are connected to the remaining gears through white 24T gear with clutch so the hands can be adjusted if needed.
  20. Gonkius
    This is a fully automatic clock that was finished end of 2014. So, why do I call it "fully automatic"? - The clockwork runs as a normal mechanical clock with a pendulum and counterweight. - There is a motor that winds the clock every hour. - The speed of the clock is adjusted once a day using the Mindstorms unit. The speed is adjusted by changing the length of the pendulum. In total, the clock runs for itself without any assistance, and it shows the right time, even if it is build using only LEGO bricks. (Apart from the string to the counterweight) There have been many challenges in this design. My main focus, except the obvious goal to make everything to work, was to make this as compact as possible. The whole clockwork fits inside 14x14x14 studs. I did a short video to show the "action": The two sensors are used for: 1. Stop when the counterweight is fully winded 2. Give feedback from the minute hand rotation back to the Mindstorms unit. The counterweight is made out of 12 train/boat weights and is about 0.68kg. Winding is done through a differential to avoid interruptions during the winding. There are two medium motors inside the clockwork for the winding and adjustment. The Mindstorms unit is hidden in the base behind a hatch: WIP pictures Specially designed differential gear to reduce the friction between the counterweight and clockwork as much as possible. The winding motor rotates the large turntable gear: Clockwork prototype, without any automation: Very first prototype of the escapement:
  21. Gonkius
    Yes, I've tried those globes. They look not too bad on the photos, but are worse in real, especially as they are made of two parts, and they are too big. I like my helmets better...
  22. Gonkius
    OK, here you have a few more pictures taken during design work. This is the actual body structure. Hinges are placed at both ends to place the tile sections to get the cone shapes. This 12-segment ring is the most vital component as it holds all sides firmly in all directions. You see a Technic structure that holds the 3 feet and the body together. The 4 black bricks at the bottom are "4733" that holds the round feet and sides in place.
  23. Gonkius
    Thanks, I tried to make uploads of some smaller pictures showing the inside, but it seems that I need to make more posts...
  24. Gonkius
    Really nice building and you can almost feel the action going on!
  25. Gonkius
    This set needs EVE with a curved body. This is actually a good idea for a new projwct...
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