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Redimus

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by Redimus

  1. It's a UK railway enthusiast thing, anyone who's favourite big 4 company isn't the GWR tends to list the GWR as their least favourite. I don't really think the GWR was rubbish, just don't tell any of those GWR fans that! :P I've seen some video on youtube and photos elsewhere of some of the previous year's railway inspired stuff at the Great Western Brick Show, and there's no doubt I'd love to visit on year if I can manage to get down there. The main thing I'm looking for is a way to meet up with fellow AFOLs, do those clubs allow for that? From my (admittedly quick) look at Brickish's homepage the other day, I wasn't sure what exactly I was getting for my membership other than another, slightly more specialised, forum and a nice regular news letter.
  2. The trick with 6 wheel bogies is to either build in a pivot link for the last two or to build a sliding mechanism for the middle two (although obviously you'll struck to use a 9v power bogie in that case!), but I can full understand you deciding not to go to the hassle.
  3. dr_spock: The rod is basically a slightly longer one piece version of the solution I'm currently using. I've concidered the ball coupling idea, and it has merit, I'm just not sure how I'd get it to fit in the limited space (will have to have a play on LDD) zephyr1934: I did consider it seeing what you could do, but seeing as that rod configuration is actually not far from being prototypical (it's just two rods, not two rods and a connector in real life), I didn't see the need to add extra expense and time to the build. Despite the little cheat, I'm actually rather happy with the result. Those Technic pieces may well be the answer if my first solution doesn't work (and I can't get dr_spock's suggestion to go anywhere), I've got a couple of ideas on how I could use em, I'll give that a go too.
  4. Bullied built some very interesting looking engines, none of which (all for different reasons) has wheel arches. That last one is a steam engine too believe it or not. It wasn't very successful. As for the loco I'm currently modeling. I'm not. I'm trying to decide, but I'm looking at the majority of them and have the same problem that I have no idea how I'm going to represent the wheel arch. My previous project, I was able to negate this by by using brackets and plates to make the footplate appear a bit larger and hide the fact the wheels don't go up as far as the wheel arches, but that won't work on most locos, because they tend to have curved kinks in their footplate, which would be hard enough to replicate without having make em line up with brackets and plates as well! Not sure if this is what I want to model next (although it's on the shortlist) but here's a Schools Class which should illustrate what I'm looking at:
  5. I've been looking around for my next loco to tackle, and I've run into a bit of a problem. What ever I model, I want it to be from the Southern Railway, but the vast majority of the nice looking and/or recognisable ones suffer from the same problem, large wheel arches. There *are* a few Bulleids I could do, but seeing as I'd inevitably just copy the rather nice ones someone else has done, I'd like to do my own thing first (I know I'll break down and build at least one eventually). So, do any of you guys have any techniques for dealing with arches too big to get away with slightly undersized wheels/slightly too high footplates?
  6. Your biggest problem will probably turn out to be less that wont fit round the track and more that it'll hit whatever scenery you have sat next to the track around the sharp toy curves Lego track has. It also depends how far out the bogies are at either end (you don't want them too close to the center as it makes coupling and the end overhang a problem). Seeing as you have the bits already for the undercarriage, I'd do some experimenting, see what you can get away with. I've generally found it's a good idea to mock up in LDD a chassis for anything I'm not sure about, build it with whatever Lego I have lying around, and then go from there. As you're building a diesel, it's not so important to get the undercarriage spot on before going on to design the main body, but I'd still recommend you do some real life tests before committing to all the parts for the rest of it. Are you sticking to 4 wheeled bogies or going with the more prototypical (and awkward) 6 wheeled bogies?
  7. Doesn't look bad for a first build. Mine wasn't anything special, and despite modifying it extensively since, it still looks more like a toy than a model (more so than yours does), but that doesn't matter. Without designing and building it, I wouldn't have learnt what I needed to know to build the loco in my sig. No matter how it turns out, cherish it, because you'll learn so much that you wouldn't have learnt otherwise. Keep up the good work!
  8. Perhaps it's because I used to have an actual model railway, but other than fudging things to power them, I always want to make it look as close to the real thing rather than adding play value.
  9. That's not so much of a problem for me seeing as my existing stock of Lego is rather old and chewed, so I tend to resort to BrickLink anyway! (If I didn't have LDD I'd build nothing good at all.)
  10. Those look really smart. Have you considered making the bogies a little bit longer? I've always felt the standard Lego 6 stud long bogie looks too short.
  11. You have wonder what advantage there is in having opening interior doors when most of the time, you can't see them, and when the prototype doors are sliding doors anyway.
  12. I'm getting to a point where I'm starting to feel it'd be really nice to have some people in real life to get inspiration from and bounce ideas off of. Sure there's you guys (who have been *really* helpful on my most recent build), Google image search and Flicker, but it's not the same as going somewhere, seeing real people, showing your stuff off, letting them show their stuff off to you and just socialising in real time. So are there others from the County Durham area who are already in a group or interested in getting together to form an informal group? Also, are there any members of the Yorkshire based group here who could tell me about their group (it's not ideal, but bits of Yorkshire aren't too far away from me? Finally are there any other Lego events other than the Great Western Lego Show (which looks awesome and all, but is far too far away and far too Great Western for my tastes! :P )?
  13. If I had EN, I'd probably raise the height of the tender by 1 brick all round (and maybe lengthen it slightly), which would make it easier to put coal in there without it brimming over the top (not very safe on a loco that would probably reach 70+mph on a regular basis). Mind, I'd probably then breakdown and just redesign the undercarriage of the tender to take a 9v track powered motor, and be rid of the PF stuff altogether!
  14. If he's anything like me, it's because his 9v track is busying being a layout while he has tones of useless RC track with nothing better to do!
  15. Out of interest, will this fit around standard Lego curves, or is it a strictly a strait curves railway kinda train? Also, I like the lowered windows.
  16. It's a possibility I'm considering (if my other ideas don't work). My problems with that option are the colour (light grey will really stand out on a model that is mostly black) and the additional length between the tender and the engine.
  17. lol... Missile truck... 'Peace Keeper Rail Garrison'...
  18. garethjellis: It's at the *very limit* of what's practical on standard Lego points. Most of the time it's fine, although on one set of points (directly after a curve) it does audibly hit the checkrail although shows no sign of actually wanting to come off. The bigger problem is that on any form of incline, the connection between the tender and the loco is too stiff in the x axis, which means the rather long loco tends to lift the motor section very slightly off the track, reducing both the power getting to it and the traction it is able to deploy to the rails. I've got some ideas on how to fix that, but it'll have to wait until I do a odds n sods order as I don't currently have the bits to do it. ScotNick: I need to research where best to get stickers and how best to design the, but I would like to eventually. And yeah, I can't believe I haven't done a more detailed set of photos for the Mk0.5s yet (I refuse to call em Mk1s because there's too many liberties taken!). Also, I had to cheat on the connecting rods. The link that connects the two halves has bluetack on the pin to stop it sagging. Somehow didn't occour to me that using a frictionless pin for that would be a problem until I actually tried it!
  19. So, I finally finished the Q Class, and I'm really happy with it! Have a gander... The cab area. Tender detail I decided to design the tender so it looked good even without a load of coal. It doesn't go all the way through, but it looks like it does! I'm going to replace the random assortment of small black bits with 1x1 black cheese wedges (mainly so I can use all the other bits more usefully), but they haven't arrived yet. General shots on the railway. Next up the freight wagons for her to pull. I've just ordered the bits for the brakevan, so look out for that in the next couple of weeks hopefully.
  20. I'll be honest, the wagons, and that one in particular, were what put me off the set. I realise that Lego trains aren't exactly realistic, but those trucks were too far from actual cattle trucks (especially in the diesel era pretty much anywhere) for my own tastes. Even in the steam era cattle wagons were covered vans with enough holes for the animals to breath. Still, looks pretty cool as a toy train I guess.
  21. That looks bloody awesome!
  22. That's a really smart little build.
  23. Looking at the current prices, that's pretty lucky.
  24. Yeah, It's why my blood and custard coaches are less custard and more white... those windows are stupid expensive, and not worth it.
  25. That coach is in no way worth £80! For pieces and design, I *might* pay £15 for it... Had I not designed my own steam era coaches that are worth the price.
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