Toastie

What about 75827 Firehouse Headquarters? Best, Thorsten

You're right. That "tacitly" was missing. And it is more like "largely tolerated". The instruction booklet for the Robokit set (set = cartridge for the Atari STs and software on one diskette) makes references to Atari (at that time, the company selling the kit was apparently not (yet) acquired by Atari UK), Digital Research Corporation and The LEGO group in the legals section; the entire instructions shown are for LEGO models built from the LEGO Dacta sets of that time (1090, 1092 etc.) - no other construction material despite for the home brew sensors is used. In one sentence, "Fischertechnik" and "wood" is suggested as well as alternative building material, but is not used for any of the robots and other builds shown in the booklet. Technic and System bricks only. This is why I thought: TLG must have seen this - and they never complained. But as you said: They apparently tacitly endorsed it - for sure. Still looking for videos the guys marketing Robokit took back then. There are many references in forum entries, websites and text documents, but all interesting links - so far - are broken. The Wayback Machine is of some help, but not with regard to official endorsements ;) Best regards and looking very much forward to updates on your website!!! Thorsten

I do share this notion 100%. Recently joined an Atari Forum to ask about Win11 COM port access within the Atari "Hatari" emulator, so that I can program something using GFABasic to access 9750 via the Atari's serial port. Won't work, but I do have an Atari 1040 STFM which works flawlessly; it has a GoTek as drive 0, the internal floppy as drive 1 (there is a nice pad on the PCB you can use to make that change with a switch). And it does talk flawlessly to 9750 via my little ArduinoNano serial2parallel converter I used before. Not the point: There seems to be a "once upon a time" period, when even TLG was OK with doing things, that are nowadays unthinkable: Using tin foil, all sorts of wires, to make custom sensors and the like. I love that. In the Atari world, this hardware/software combo is called Atari Robokit. When you google this, you get the manual, PCB layout, and much more for the device to attach to one of the Atari ports: The thing is: LEGO apparently endorsed this approach - using the 4.5V wires and a screwdriver to pop off the plugs, screw them to the Atari Robokit board, which is so much more flexible than any pure TLG solution ... This is true TLG philosophy: Make what is needed to satisfy your demands. But after 1990 this philosophy fell into oblivion. For today's purists, that is. Back then, it was OK. And still pure, as it seems. BTW: When you follow that video link and look around, there is so much more. Best, Thorsten

Safely within margins of errors/manufacturing! Nice calculation, appreciate that. OK, I was wrong on the period 7, block f elements in the core ... Best wishes, Thorsten

Yup. Then check with high density ABS (or other high density plastic material) properties. Water will not do any damage, ;) at least when the core is safely enclosed. Yes, not meant to be taken seriously. Will I buy a $700 set? Never. Ever. Not even with that core in the weights Best, Thorsten

I wonder who they'll put the blame on ... is there some anti-crane organization out there?

1. Café Corner 2. Parisian Restaurant. Because I have them - and won't get anymore - running out of space. So ranking is easy Best, Thorsten

I won't be of any help here, but just this: Speed vs power control would result in exactly the contrary result. 1) Using speed control: If the motor (at low initial power setting) cannot reach the speed you want, then the hub increases power = PWM level (= on vs off time = more on time) and I'd expect wheel slip rather than motor stalling. Control means that the firmware monitors the rpm of the motor. When too low = not correct speed, then increase power = on vs off ratio towards more on time. And vice versa. 2) Using power "control": This is a selected = fixed PWM level - there is no control. The firmware just applies a fixed on vs off time to the motor, regardless of speed, which changes with load. Now, when you cannot hear this hissing sound, then something is very odd. Does your WeDo motor produced that sound when using PUp firmware? The thing is, PWM means applying full DC voltage to the motor for a certain time and then go to zero voltage for another time. Rather quickly = generating that sound. As far as I know, none of the hardware available would allow reducing the voltage applied during a PWM on-time. But I may be wrong and others (like @Pybricks) have to switch on the light here. All the best + good luck, Thorsten

I have not figured out how, but I am inclined to take that route with the 4.5V Technic Control stuff from 1986/7: "It is 4.5V. Thanks for watching." And then Interface A controls a 4.5V train - with a little help ... OK, once I retire, that is. Give me 5.5 more years You know, a lot of people don't believe me when I am claiming "5.5 more years, and I'm out" - not because of no ideas anymore regarding research, but so many other ideas regarding LEGO - OK and regarding the house, and the pets (hack, cats and dog), and the ... whatever. Not including my wife: I simply love her. All the best, Thorsten

And that is the - in my opinion - very big difference. Valuing honesty over support of a dedicated audience is a major step forward, as far as I am concerned. There is absolutely nothing wrong with getting support. However, throughout my entire research life (> 35 years), I have learned that constructive criticism teaches me so much more and is so much more valuable than any "cool stuff" or any "this is crap" reviews I got after submitting my research proposals. LEGO is not research, but it is the exact same approach when posting in a mature and knowledgeable forum, as EB is: Learning, refining, appreciating, improving, having fun, teasing, challenging, accepting, arguing, and so on and so forth. This is why I am here (and nowhere else) and why I am enjoying contributions from you and others, and reading the comments - and sometimes replying. And learning a lot. All the best, Thorsten

Sorry for the late reply - I instantly became unconscious, when reading a "few dozens" Best Thorsten

I agree 100% to all you said. I am not a Technic person - love Technic though, love the studs, love playing with ABS they way TLG is molding it. Not only that, but I am even more so into "controlling" things with (simple) computers and some home-brew solutions. When the RCX came out in 1998, it got me into full TLG gear again, after almost 25 years of "pausing". Two things I's like to add: The PoweredUp (Control+, all the same) stuff is expensive because TLG makes it expensive AND people are buying it. In the mass production sets, that is. The electronics inside PUp is next to dead cheap - nothing fancy at all. Oh, I can hear them: It was so expensive developing this technology, these devices, and what not. Sure it was, but so is developing other electronics as well - the PUp devices are simply so overpriced - it hurts. Even more so, when you open them up ... not the point: TLG gets not only away with it, they make a ton of money because we are buying that stuff. Yes, I also believe PUp/C+ will simply sink sooner or later - but this is what it is, in the real world. Your Control Centers are so much more in line with the philosophy of "living forever" - that is why I recently began to play with 4.5V Technic Control stuff from around 1985. Motivated by folks like @evank , @alexGS. 35+ years old and still working fine. Controlled by a PC from that time or with the help of dead cheap Arduinos and the like now, in 2023. 9V, PF the same, but the latter less so regarding the "autonomous control" world but rather the "remote control" world. All the best, Thorsten

Well, felt the same ... Best, Thorsten

I totally agree, Emanuele, the scene is really nice, and the colors are fantastic. As I am struggling a bit with colors - this really is colorful for me. And: A very, very nice diorama! Best, Thorsten

Technic Control. 1986. (The 4.5V stuff with wires going to the controlling computer) Maybe a 9V upgrade - or the equivalent of 1.2V x 6 = 7.2V when using LiPo or NiMH rechargeables) - wires are still the thing when running some sensitive equipment. There is no BT or BLE or any other sort of wireless gadgets, when it comes to true technic control. Too much sniffing - and too many microwave ovens ... Best, Thorsten

That would ring all the bells of "DON'T CLICK", there is "lock-in", "price", and "guarantee". Was it actually in reverse "colors"? (Yes, I know, black is not a color) Whatever. 2 weeks from now and I will (for the n'th time, knowing it is more than stupid to pay that price) visit LEGO's Billund place - no shittin around there, just enjoying the old stuff - again and again. Best, Thorsten

I read that a couple of times ... so we have LEGO, LDC, the LEGO company, the family that owns LEGO, an investment company; and one should not really be annoyed at LEGO? When the LEGO logo is all over the place? Wow. That requires some deep knowledge on the business relationships the family, LEGO, TLG, LDC, and who ever else is playing cards here, maybe an investment company set up by the family that owns LEGO. And Merlin of course. I'd be simply annoyed at LEGO. Merlin or not. Best, Thorsten

Had to look it up - I'm bad, terrible, when it comes to soccer - but: Yes. That resonates Best, Thorsten

Hello Alex! You are absolutely right - and it should be stressed: Nothing is better than using a direct hardware approach, particularly when the hardware is still readily available (semi modern PCs and laptops, eBay is your friend) and b) "all" you have to do is making a cable AND carefully follow the instructions provided by you for making such a cable!!! I screwed up on this initially, because I was NOT carefully reading the instructions. The good old world of schematics and focused work on multiple wires ... I love that. I'd also say that the parallel approach/access to 9750, either via 9771, the Apple equivalent, or any true PC parallel port, is much "closer" to the original setup. The Arduino/serial approach just works because hardware has become so much faster over the years. Back in the TC days, it was simply not possible to do PWM via serial communication, as discussed above I have been seriously side-tracked by @evank as Evan told me, there was no version of TC available for Atari's. I resurrected a working Atari 1040 STFM and a Mega St4 from being trashed (BTW: NO more vintage stuff anywhere in the basement of my institute - nothing. Today it was cleared entirely. Sneaked in on Monday and snatched the Atari's - today, everything else was relocated to Building A = trash & recycling. Interestingly, this building is right next to Building B (duh) = Administration: Rectorate etc. pp. :D). As BASIC is BASIC, I am entertaining the idea of adapting my DOS QBasic program to GWGFABasic ... the Atari's provide direct access to the data/address bus . We'll see. No time right now, but 5 and 1/2 years and I'll retire All the best, Thorsten

I am 100% with you ... and you are right, hard to find ... and rather expensive as well. But: Champions League. Best, Thorsten

This is Champions League though ... don't know where TLG is playing Best, Thorsten

With PUp you sure have the bloody app - and then all the BLE alternatives: There is PyBricks. There is Legoino. Full-blown programming features. Wireless. And so many DIY solutions. I love to mix things - close by = wires; far away = wireless ... you have to figure out, how to play it, but I would never stick to one "system". You know that layouts may last for long, LEGO electronics does not. So, as they say in the financial world, which I don't like at all, diverse investments are most favorable. As is diversity per se. Don't need any business and economics books and folks at all to figure that one out. Just go nuts - you know for sure, how to do that! Best Thorsten

Hi Ry, nice that more folks are enjoying vintage LEGO! Now when you navigate here: you can see in one of the pictures how the Nano is connected to the Interface A: Arduino pin Lego Interface A pin D2 6 (to LI output 0) D3 8 (to LI output 1) D4 10 (to LI output 2) D5 12 (to LI output 3) D6 14 (to LI output 4) D7 16 (to LI output 5) D8 18 (from LI input 0) D9 20 (from LI input 1) Lego Interface A pins 5 - 19 are GND and 1+3 are +5V. The USB to TTL adapter outputs go to TX and RX on the Nano - make sure you have an on/off switch in the RX line, otherwise you can't program the Nano on the fly. This configuration works only with a Nano running my little program available on Bricksafe, as I am using direct register manipulation (for fun ...) And lastly: I have tested this with DOSBox-X only. No idea whether DOSBox works as well. All the best, Thorsten

Uhmm, no? Did do MK sets. Don't show/comment here or anywhere (except see below) on EB, because it is not allowed. See the difference? Competition ... You need to go to the Community Forum, because one "cannot" post in this thread or any other except the mentioned forum - with close to zill responses there, as it is forbidden territory. It is what it is. BTW: Love LEGO since 1965 - and I am color-blind, but not blind. Regards, Thorsten

Subscribed. Of course. Best, Thorsten