Toastie

@Mr Hobbles, that is a very nice project!!! However, I was more aiming at getting all the old software to run on Win10, 64 bit. Catalina is 32 bit, isn't it? If not, would you have a link to the 64bit driver for the USB tower? I searched quite a bit at various places - to no avail. There apparently was such a driver shipping with Robolab or the like, but again, no find. Best Thorsten

Hi @Jim, this is rather old, but it was suggested to move the topic to this forum: Best Thorsten And while I am at it, maybe these two as well - getting older and older though! https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/153260-train-layout-control-nxt-operated-pf-and-rc-trains/ https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/154740-moc-lego-switch-drive-controller/

And that is the most important thing and all what counts! (I'll stick with MLCAD - and will do when the Microsoft people allow me to do so . Never change a running system ... I know, that's what all lazy old farts claim from time to time ) Glad that LDCad works out for you! Have fun and all the best, Thorsten

If I understand correctly though, this is caused by Windows account management (security settings, access control etc. pp.) isn't it? I have never encountered any of your issues - and I am wondering why. Hmmm. Did you >install< MLCAD with admin rights? Oh well, MLCAD was developed, when Windows was one big security issue Best, Thorsten

Well that depends. There were about 150 03.10 built - and some actually have full streamline covers, others the "half" version. See here (pictures - it is in German and the English page is not that detailed): https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/DR-Baureihe_03 and here in HO scale: Best Thorsten

Hi @Coder Shah, thank you! Well @Jim outlined a way to do this ... but I forgot what that was. Maybe he reads this and then does something, I don't know. I am still looking at the PBrick line followers line-up you made!!! That one is really great. All the best Thorsten

That is very nice! However, it is not necessary to install "Virtual Box" for most of the programs you have compiled. See here: https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/157550-lego-history-programming-20-years-old-mindstorms-rcx%E2%80%99-on-modern-computers/ Best, Thorsten

He Sergio, same here! I am really impressed, I must say. I like your modding very much, particularly the greebling. Nice. With regard to the "gap" I did the same thing, just to find out that many others have done that already. However, I have replaced the 1x4 tiles on the 1x4 plate with two 1x1 and one 1x2 cheese slopes. As said: As others have done. It makes the gap even narrower - without compromising driving performance. Will closely follow your WIP! Best Thorsten

Well it depends. There was an issue with the MLCAD.ini file recently (if I recall correctly - colors were all wrong due to new color definitions). I raised that issue in the "LEGO Digital Designer and ..." forum. They in turn contacted Michael Lachmann. As I did. He responded nicely and the issue was fixed. Colors do work flawlessly again. And yes: I am using solely MLCAD for building (and Stud.io for rendering). No snapping or flopping, no "no" only: "Just Do It". First files date back to the year 2000. And MLCAD runs like a Bosch/Miele/AEG washing machine; on 98, 2000, XP, 7, and 10. Without any glitch. For me, there is no need for any update. The parts update, i.e. the most crucial thing, is in the LDraw open source community, where it is maintained ... it is so cool. (and thank you for the "prototype" clarification - did not know that at all!) Best Thorsten

Oh yes - but these do not come even close to the look and elegance of a real Swiss crocodile. So the "Eisenschwein" fits really well ... Best Thorsten

See, that is the ultimate problem when it comes to "taste" and interpretation of "non-confirmed, guess" data: It is such a nice and interesting locomotive - electrical power at a time no one was really believing in it. But it is certainly not a prototype, is it? And that is entirely OK - it is your view. To me though it looks most interesting. I know so many people who have a Crocodile model from small to large on a shelf for display. Well, ever googled what Swiss folks manufacture/have manufactured? And with what precision? And most importantly success, on a world scale? They do very well in Switzerland, I can tell. Very well. For many good reasons. A rationale should be more than a feeling. I certainly don't share your feelings, but that lies of course in the nature of feelings. I also believe I am totally casual purchaser ... but who knows. That is you - and there are others thinking about it exactly the other way around: A nice 1920 - 1950 HO layout - of course it belongs there, and would run on these rails. So the answer is yes and picking it up is a must. Is there any particular reasoning that steam appeals more than lets say electric? For me it would have been: just another steamer, that's all. Also: There was the Emerald. And the American diesels (GPs/FPs). In other words: You and the folks you know like steamers - me and the folks I know don't do that to that extent. It is all personal and individual taste ... I believe that is - sorry for the strong words - utter nonsense. No company in the world needing to make money in a time, as you said, where money becomes an issue, most certainly for a company of this size as well, would do that. Particularly not TLG: We never ever saw any reliable number of sets they sold - because they simply don't want to give these numbers to us. So your theory, even on the conspiracy level, is evaporating instantaneously: Scenario 1) The set sells like crazy BUT TLG does not want to make other trains for AFOLs anymore, because they have had it: They simply tell us: Sorry, it didn't sell at all. Scenario 2) The set doesn't sell. TLG tells us: Sorry, it did not sell. You see: There is absolutely no need for your theory. It's all about feelings ... as we have no facts. Best Thorsten Heehee - even Google has its bold limits. (I am German - and I had to repeatedly listen to what the folks are talking about. Swiss speaking German is like me speaking Danish. I like the way they speak though very much - it always adds a nice tone of lightness to everything - even a Crocodile) Best Thorsten

This is so unbelievably cool - what a nice find. And that variety of German language, which isn't German language makes everything even nicer. The Swiss - so clean, powerful, and beautiful - what would you expect. The video pretty much reminds me on this dialogue: STANTZ "The ironwork extends down through fifty feet of bedrock and touches the water table!" (He looks at Venkman who doesn't see the significance.) VENKMAN (shrugs) "I guess they don't build them like they used to, huh?" STANTZ "No! Nobody ever built them like this! The architect was either an authentic whacko or a certified genius. The whole building is like a huge antenna for pulling in and concentrating psychokinetic energy." Thanks for sharing!!! Best Thorsten

Absolutely. Wonderful video. 3:06: The whole driving unit is firmly attached to the noses, right? And then the cabin holds them "together". All the curve negotiating is done with the sliding axles, right? Best Thorsten

Oh well, I believe others here know better than I do. As Wikipedia is my friend in general and as I do speak a little German, it is even more so a friend of mine regarding the Ce 6/8 II (III): The relevant Wikipedia articles for this locomotive are in German (and some other exclusive languages). What I do take from this one is that there are basically the two driving units in the noses. They propel the six large wheels on each side, which are connected by the rods. The cab frame is coupled to the noses so it can pivot, but as far as I understood the articles, the wheels are not(?) rigidly connected to the cab. Also, the axles on each of the 6 driving wheel sets can move laterally quite a bit, as is the case for steamers as well. This is then is some contrast to the LEGO model, but I believe realizing it closer to the original would be quite a challenge. But again: It may be very different from what I read into it. BTW: On my croc the slant was gone when I removed the two 1x4 bricks and some O-rings (see above), which secure the model from running off the stand. Best Thorsten

Oh yes: Because I am THE graphics guru As a '62 Model, I thought the only graphics format that can do the transparent background was GIF. I believe it was like that couple of decades ago, wasn't it? Well - I stand correct. Your version is >perfect< Thank you very much!!! All the best Thorsten

Holy Merde - I am too dumb for this ... Does this link work? https://uni-wuppertal.sciebo.de/s/T3yGU1zxVRt1tRg Sorry for the mess ...

This is a very, very nice line-up! Beautiful. And at the same time, it is a little ... the same, isn't it? There is the RCX, which has a tiny fraction of the EV3 brick's capability - and nevertheless, even official sets are often - line followers. As much as I like retro - as much do I like progress. I know that the EV3 can do so much more, but what I find ... a little - only a little - discouraging is that TLG still goes the same old. Extremely more powerful brains following a line. But: I do like your video very much! Thanks for sharing!!! With best regards, Thorsten

That (the resulting loss of power due to partial canceling of net forward forces) plus the resulting force vectors pointing inside and outside, causing additional friction (= even more power loss) but much more annoyingly uplifting forces "facilitating" derailing. On another thought: The 9V vs all-plastic track derailing issues (9V causing more) have been amply discussed by you and others elsewhere; I don't know whether this has been mentioned: Depending on how often and "how" 9V track pieces, particularly of course curves, have been assembled/disassembled, the metal parts maybe more or less bent, uplifted, or deformed (barely visible). It sometimes worked wonders at least here, when paying attention to that. Best wishes Thorsten

Exactly. 9V track problems when occur when there are rubber bands, but they are absolutely unnecessary, i.e. on unpowered trailing or - what is the other thing called in front - unpowered pivoting(???) wheels. Trailing is less of an issue, but as the Croc can go both forward and reverse at full speed, trailing is relative. Doing experiments right now. Best, Thorsten

Oh I can imagine that - sorry for pushing. How is this one (50x50 pixels, GIF with transparent bkg) - it looks crappy but OKish when resized Best Thorsten

With such a charger it may certainly work. However, you would have to unsolder the LiPo pack of the 8878 and you need to correctly identify the wiring!!! There are more than just the two output wires, see Philo's BrickShelf folder: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=4082303 as the pack must be balanced. I'd rather use this approach as a last resort. However, when you intend to open up your faulty 8878, you can measure the remaining voltage of the pack. What would that reading be (provided you have a volt meter)?

Or two crates of really good beer, each 20 x 0.5L (I am more into beer ) Is there any chance that you or someone around has a different charger at hand? Any plain vanilla 12V DC wall wart would do; however, the amperage should be 1A or above. It could be that the circuity wants to draw more current as it can with the LEGO charger because of the low residual charge in the LiPo. Don't be afraid of exceeding the 10V - that's just a very good marketing thing from TLG to sell their totally, greedily, ridiculously expensive 10V piece. I bet they just designed that for having people thinking: "Oh may: No other device on this planet runs on 10V DC, I must buy that one from TLG or I'll fry the (very) expensive 8878." That is one of the things I'll never forgive them. If not, then plugging in for 30 min then removing the charger for a couple of minutes and then do all over for a couple of times may help. Yes did that on one of mine and it helped. Another question: You said that when the charger is plugged into 8878, it turns on. Does it also deliver power to its PF output socket, i.e., does it operate a motor or so? When all that is not working, it is time to open 8878 up: Remove the plastic covers hiding the screws of the bottom with a matching sharp drill (no harm is done), remove the screws and lift the top from the bottom. You look at some electronics and the two LiPo cells.

3 months is a long time - not for a charged LiPo itself at all, but the electronics inside 8878 drains the LiPo pack as it has to monitor the on/off button all the time. It thus appears as if the LiPo is - as you said - is entirely drained. And may be even close to the threshold that the output voltage should not fall below. Regarding the blinking LED: You said it flashes in some sort of weird way; is the blinking "faster" than the LED blinks on the 8878 that you could charge successfully? Secondly: What charger do you use? The LEGO one, or any other type?

Exactly. But: When I have problems with Windows, the #1 advice is: "Kill it, make a fresh installation". You know what that means. I always try to "cure" Windows - and so far (began with Win3.0) it worked quite well: First run a few gadgets, try, then go tough. The electronics in that thing a quite capable. Before ripping out the heart, it may be worth to try some sort of defibrillation? Best Thorsten