mrfuture

I recently got the 7740 from a build and buy from a lot. It is almoust complete. But it is my first 12v train and it looking nice. I only had the Push or 4,5v trains as childe. But i think the difference was that i had a modeltrain from my father to play with insted. So no need for Lego version. Is it posible to get the stickers for 7740 ?

I'm not realy a trains guy but as a kid i had a model trains and only some of the 4,5V trains in Lego. But when i got back to lego, i bought the Horizon Express and needed rails and motor to power it. Bought then 2014 version of passenger train. The Emeral Night followed soon after. Then a bit back to what i love.The monorail 6990 and the Space era. For some time i had an idea for a custom build train after seeing one of my fellow LUG members creations. But project has not been started. Recntly i got 7740 to get some of the parts i need for the project. Moustly the rails and powersupply. So ma be ths develope in to something.

I also loved that movie as a kid. That was a very good version of Jonny five. I think it is the best one yet.

I did finaly fix this problem after take one of the switch track home to try to make it work. I needed a complet rebuild since i took the wrong one home. But the right one to build for in the layout. After some more fiddeling with the NXT code i manage to get it work right. Back at the trade faire i needed to change the code again for take to the account for the train to pass before it trigger the code again and the adjustment of the sensor, I found a few problems that i may try to figuring out for the next version. 1. Trains with constant or flashing light ether blinde the sensor so it does not switch or not alsways work when flashing. I think the sensor get blinded so it think there is no train there and do not trigger the code for the track. 2. I must make a system that handel two trains coming to the track at ones. This was a constant problem in the layout. i had two circles in each other. The inner was a bit shorter than the outer. Sometimes the first train leaving the switch track area when the other comes into the sensor area. that makes the first one to crash with the switch, since it changes and the other train in the first. Or bouth entering the switchtrack area at ones making a spetacular crash.

Thanks for the tip with the new gear. I wil test it. Switch is now in a layout at a traid fair i attending to with the LUG. But i think the axel pin with stop do no different i this case. The missaglinement is not that the gear moves on the axel pin but it starts stoping wrong on the tooth brick on the sliderswitch so it make pressure on the construction. It is not much it need to move, but just a tad longer. If i stop the motor earlier it can not switch completly. But the first time back and forth this works fine with no pressure.

Here is a picture of the setup. It is at the moment a prototype. But it could be that the construction is to weak to hold it together, but it is the missaligment of the thooth and gear that make it goes apart It work fine 2-3 times without any presure from the motor until it is getting missaligned. https://flic.kr/p/Am9jhj Motor power is set to 40. I think it can't get any lower if it should manage to push the slide.

I'm trying to make an automatic switch track for the Monorail system. I think i have the programming working but If it moves back and forth a few times it looks like the gear and tooth 1x4 brick get miss aglined and it force the contruction apart. Since the slide can not move but the motor has a little bit more to turn. i have tried, shorter turns or second to try to fix but that result in that it did not completet the switch I have found that ether 1,1 second or 1,2 turn is working. I using the NXT motor to move the slide trough a small gear and axe. I use for the moment a light sensor to trigger the switch.

I had no problems with toothpaste and the printing. It just float away when had the part in water and then added toothpaste gentel rubbed it on the painted parts But thanks for the warning.

Thanks for the tip but i solved the problem with toothpaste. But others are welcome to post tip about cleaning for ohers to find.

Or toothpaste That worked like magic on all my painted minifigures. A nailbrush on hard places. Have not tried it on the horse yet. It is a different type. one advice do NOT use nail lacquer remover. Even the mild one. I had a bad head that I tried on. Some of the print came off.

I recently got a tub of used Lego. In it there was a few minifigures that had been paninted what looked like white board maker pen or simular in blue or black I also got a black horse that was painted as a Zebra with a correction lacquer. How can i remove it without damaging the normal print.

The RCX was working OK after the corrosion fix.and did for a while. (a few days) but then one day i turned it on the extra sign apperd. Thats when i suspect the board got in contact with the metal because of the part that ws missing at the time. It was put back once i found out where it should be. But i think the damage was done already. Since i did not have the software avaliabe at that moment. When i got it i had communication problem. But that i think was before i got the right port. Brickcc automaticly search ended up on port 3 insted of 5 where the tower was. But after i tested with one of the other i have, this worked fine. Swapped back again and it say no brick. RCX has getting worse. in the beginning after the problems start it beeped some times in a darker tone before the normal beep. But now there is only a click sound when i turn it on. and often comes on when i insert the last batteri. The RCX to RCX firmware upgrade was someting i read in a Bricklink description of a RCX. I had never seen anything about it.before. Here is the description "Yellow Mindstorms RCX 1.0 with Power Jack - Complete Brick Visually excellent condition, like NEW, but IR send LEDs are burned. You still can upload firmware and software with help of another RCX brick or change IR LEDs. All others things work: motors, sensors, display, sound"

I have a few questions. If i try to clean the board with vinegar as you wrote. Do i need to clean it off afterward or will it dry off. I read some where that there is possible to upgrade one RCX from another RCX brixk if some part of the IR was broken. Have you tried this or know how? If i get a RCX with the power connection. I read that the difference was just the connection between the versions. If i remove it to fit in to my box. It makes no problems?

I have no recent plans for it at the moment. But the whole quest was to see if i could get this RCX up and running. I assume that it had if i not have forgot to put in that plastic rail. But since it in the first case i got the whole used set not complete for around 42$ around 360 kroner since the seller did not know if it worked or not because of the leaked battery. He had bougth a lot with this in. I was mostly interested in the other parts (motors, cables) but i also wanted to see if i could get it to work. I have two others that i can use if i want to use the old RCX in something. For the moment i use a NXT to control lights in a model i work on.

That was incredilbe. First time i saw the picture that someone posted at facebook, i was convinced that i saw ether a picture of a real one or a toy model.. Not Lego. But since the caption was a Lego Excevator, i had to zoom in to actually see that it was made out of bricks. Again a model out of the ordinary.

Here is the pictures of the board http://1drv.ms/1JeyV4B Back side. I have put in two question mark on two diodes that look scratchy after tuctching the metal. http://1drv.ms/1FPqCYY Front side. Here I have put in two C's for corrosion where I found it. Edit:Linked wrong pictures

I have not check for replacement but i think it could be hard to get a new Board. There is only two Places on the main Board that has sign of corrosion. The worst was the one connector from battery. The other is a barrel looking Component (not the big one) diode in the middle in front of the screen. Not mutch. I will check the RCX later. The button functions have got suddeny better. May be it they is not just in the right place. Now I can turn it on and off as normal I have successfully used the USB to RS232 adapter before, but in other non Lego use. But it had the same problem with some configuration not working. I think the solution is using RIS 2.0 /Brickcc Use Windows 7 32 bit. Find the right Com port. Testing first with a tower and Unit you know work.

I have been checking with another RCX brick and another Tower. I got that one to work and installing the firmware. I swapped the tower with the one to this brick and it worked, But I may think the garbage text on the display was really the sign of the main problem. I had one part left after I disassembled It. A dark grey rail thing. I Open the brick again and fond where it belong. I think the circuit board have been touch down on the battery metal rails. It may be beyond repair now. When I now insert the batteries it comes on with just garbage text Push on it goes off again push again It comes back with garbage text and the figure. I now get he message that Brickcc don't find the brick. I did not use vinegar. The towers Is serial but is connected via USB serial adapter.

I think it was alkaline batteries since it had a white and green stuff on the worst contacts. I cleaned that With a small screwdriver and sandpaper after that. I had to make Shure it had full Power so I used a volt meter to see if i had a full 9V from the new batteries, since it did not start at first. So i had to disassemble it before i got it to work as you wrote with the man and could change channels.It was OK by then. One day i turned it on it was like i wrote above. I trying now Brickcc but I only get the download failed when I try to install default firmware. (RIS2) Could it be the IR tower? I have no experience with C but have programming a little in Visual Basic

I recently got an old battery damaged RCX cheap. Moistly for its parts since the RCX was question. I cleaned it an it was working again with the sign of no firmware installed. But later when I finally found a copy of v2 RIS software it was starting to show additional signs on the display. That's before I could do anything with the software. When I turn it on it may beep a darker tone. The signs is just garbage. Not any real text beside the figure sign. If I try to turn it off, it would not shut down before I remove the batteries. I have also tried new batteries.

I Bricklinked my 3 first modular houses the hard way. It was my first time Bricklinking anything. i think later on that mutch could have been done better and mor effcet. The whole process was a bit learning and failing. But it was a fun process to do. Now i doing more half complete sets and buy parts to complete it.

OK i think i have to take a chance here on my supply of white bricks. I signing on as a pilot for Octan corp. Name :Kiran Leerway Signfig comes later.

Looks interesting. I have read a lot but looks like i'm a bit out of luck when it comes to colours. I have a lot of blue and light bluish grey but not so much of special parts when it comes to the other colors. I possible can do Octan colours or printed logo bricks.. But having parts to make say a ship in white. I'm also new to this type of game.

The Long cuplings also make more space for the newer "Mindstorms 1.0" style cabel. insted of the 2x2 plate connector that is hard to find. I also started out collecting parts for the monoirail on the e-bay. Plan was to just buy the required part and build my own train. All failed and ended up with just a bunch of supports. But got my hands on a 6990 set later on. So i have been buying track parts on Bricklink.

Case solved Just to write what was wrong. Two part of he mosaic had ended up on diffrent planes One tile hgher than the other. Duing the edting process. Solution was to copy and paste the first layer onto the plate and then the other part..