jtlan

This may be the best drasine-like thing I've seen in Lego.

Only testing will tell, and it depends on what layout you're trying to run on. The longer the separation between bogies, the more your model will overhang on the inside of the curve. This means that if there is scenery, a switch handle, or even another track to the inside of the curve you will have to watch out. As an example, my Umbauwagen have 32 studs between the centers of the bogies, and just barely clear the handles on switches:

Rather than the resistance to turning the wheels, I suspect the culprit is the flexing that occurs when the axles are actually carrying the weight of the locomotive. Using larger wheels on the test rig would reduce the rolling resistance, make the rig quieter, and allow us to test the "weight-carrying" hypothesis.

Clever, but what advantages does this have over simply putting blocks under the frame to raise the wheels off the table?

Pretty sure all of the train wheels have 3.2mm flanges, including Big Ben Bricks' third-party-wheels. My narrow-gauge single Fairlie uses the medium-size wheels, and I expect other builders might use them as well (bigger than that and the wheels start looking a bit silly on the narrow track. It might be worth investing in two pairs of each Big Ben Bricks wheels for testing.

The front truck (the "4" in "4-2-0") of the locomotive is the same size and shape as a train motor, and is designed to be replaced by it (the PF train motor has the same form factor as the 9V train motor). The only difference is that the wheels won't be red.

In the event that you do decide to go with the rechargeable box later on, there's no need to get this overpriced wall wart. The box will charge with anything between 8V and 18V; odds are you already have a transformer from some old electronics in your house with the right plug and voltage. Why under the tender, and not the locomotive where the instructions suggest it to go? Just curious. I've always been suspicious of using technic half-pins to connect the wheels, rather than a 6L axle. Try swapping in an axle for the two pins; removing the tires from the wheels may also help. This is pretty typical, and it's a problem faced by all model railroaders. The eraser is pretty much ideal for cleaning the tracks, although if you have a lot of tracks to clean up you may consider building some sort of track-cleaning vehicle. Some members of my LUG have found that running the train for a while tends to clean up the track as well, but I worry about where the grime is actually going in that case...

A particular set of constraints necessarily eliminates certain prototypes, but relaxing those constraints or choosing different ones may allow for those same prototype to be built. For example, the constraint "runs smoothly on R40 curves" eliminates most long-wheelbase 2-axle rolling stock, but if the builder chooses to relax that constraint (perhaps by using ME Models large-radius curves), those prototypes may be available to model again. The "correct" choice for wheels is not always clear, as at most scales the flange on Lego train wheels is proportionally a lot larger than the flange on real wheels. At the scale I build at, the flange would be 6" (152.4mm) tall -- comically large compared to the real thing! Given that, is it "correct" to scale to the diameter of the hub of the wheel (which is the figure quoted by Big Ben Bricks)? Or is it "correct" to scale to the diameter at the flange? Compounding the issue is that the apparent size of the wheel might not correspond to either of those: It varies from model to model, but generally I consider a wheel "close enough" if the scaled diameter lands somewhere between the hub and flange diameters.

Meowvelous. Don't underestimate the number of cat-fans in other demographics, either! The Consortium strikes again.

Pretty much. I accept that wheels, running gear, etc, may be a bit wide for the scale. I've only built standard gauge locomotives on the Lego track, with the exception of a narrow-gauge locomotive using the narrower tracks. Even then, the track is still too wide -- the prototype is 2-foot gauge, which would require the rails to be placed 1 stud apart! In practice I've found that the track distortion less obvious than might be expected because a viewer observes the model from a very different vantage point than they observe a real train. I've seen Sariel's program, which is a good start for scaling the whole model (and also doesn't require starting another program). I find it helpful to have the full grid, which allows me to see the effect of scaling on the whole model at once. Having an actual image editor also enables me to do selective compression, take notes, and perform some other tricks I'll get to in the next article. I use Pixelmator to make my scaling drawings, because I have a Mac and wanted an inexpensive and basic image editor. Any image editor with layering capabilities should be sufficient.

I've wanted to write this since last summer, when I picked out a model as a "demonstrator". I don't expect that all the material will fit in one post. This post covers part of my process for building scale models. I previously presented some of this material in a talk at Bricks By the Bay 2016, titled "How Do I Train?". Introduction I built Lego trains prior to heading off to college, but didn't take my bricks with me when I started school. I started building again when I returned. Seeing the high-quality work of the early train builders inspired me. In particular, Ben's works served as inspiration both before I left for college and after I returned. Like many builders, I base my models on real trains. I got started with my current building process when I wondered why my models didn't really look like the things they were baed on. Clearly, building a model while looking at references helps. But continually checking against known dimensions of the real thing will yield even better results. Scale Models The models I build now are scale models of real trains. A scale model is "a proportional replica of a physical object" (Wikipedia) The original object the model is based on is called the "prototype". The model reproduces the features of the prototype at a smaller size and also maintains the correct positioning of those features relative to each other. The amount of reduction is called the scale of the model. For example, a 1/6 scale model of a 6-foot tall person would be 1 foot tall. Here are two images from a pamphlet that illustrate the idea of "scale". This image shows the same plane modeled at different scales: The planes have the same proportions as each other and the original plane, even though they are all different sizes. This second photo shows models of different planes built at the same scale. As the planes are all scaled down from their prototypes by the same amount, the models accurately depict the difference in sizes between the real aircraft. Widths Are a Distraction Many train builders describe their models as 6-wide, 8-wide, etc, corresponding roughly to the width of the primary portion of the model. These are not scales. They are *sizes*. Widths are NOT scales! The width of a model is useful for explaining roughly how big it is, but the same width may reflect different scales depending on the size of the prototype. A Big Boy built at the same width as Stephenson's Rocket would be built at a smaller scale, because it is wider to begin with and has to fit in the same amount of space. Conversely, building at a fixed scale can result in models of different widths, reflecting the difference in sizes of the prototypes. Picking a Scale The first instinct when deciding to build at a fixed scale is to try to build at "minifig" scale. That approach is doomed to failure, or at least inconsistency. Minifigs have very different proportions than humans: A minifig is about twice as wide as a human the same height would be. Because of this fact, a minifig will seem either short or wide relative to a model of a real vehicle designed for real humans. The scale I choose to build at is 15 inches per stud (381mm / stud). This works out to about 1:48 scale. At this scale a minifig represents someone about 6 feet (183cm) tall. American and most continental European rolling stock is about 8 studs wide; British rolling stock clocks in at 7 or 8, depending on the size of the prototype. Constraints Generally, I avoid modifying parts or using third-party parts in my models. I make an exception for wheels from Big Ben Bricks. Ben offers a variety of wheel sizes which are helpful when building steam locomotives. His small wheels are slightly thinner than the official Lego ones and have no webbing between the spokes. On the other hand, the official Lego wheels feature grooves traction bands, which is important for making powered locomotives (more on this later). I also try to make sure that my models are able to run smoothly on standard Lego track. This means all arrangements of R40 curves and switches, or at least the ones I am likely to encounter at shows. Ideally the models can also handle some unevenness in the track. Planning Process Generally the first thing I do is pick a prototype to base my model on. Once I've done so, I locate references using search engines, Wikipedia, and more dedicated sites like RailPictures.net. If I find an interesting image I'll look at the site it comes from, which often turns up relevant information. Searching in other languages can yield additional information on foreign prototypes. I try to get photos of the prototype from a variety of angles, or at least pictures of other models of the prototype. Both of these can be tricky if the prototype is rare, exotic, or unique. The most important thing is to find an engineering drawing or blueprint. These images show the prototype from a few different angles, with critical dimensions labeled. They are helpful for constructing accurate models. Scaling The next thing I do is scale the technical drawing. To do so, I choose a labeled length, convert it to inches, then scale by the chosen scale. For example: The scaling equation yields the size of the chosen length in studs. I then overlay the drawing on Lego graph paper. The paper has vertical lines separated by the width of a brick and horizontal lines separated by the height of a plate. It's useful for building models that are primarily studs-up. The paper was previously available on Lego's website but has since disappeared. I've uploaded a pdf here. Here's what the drawing looks like overlaid: I usually colorize the drawing to make it stand out against the grid. Adjusting Numbers and Selective Compression From the earlier equation, you might remember that the distance between wheels scaled to 4.72 studs, which is not a whole number. In cases like this, I round to the nearest whole number (in this case 5). This process introduces some distortion in the model, but it's usually small and hard to detect. Here's another example where the dimensions didn't quite work out: Here, the distance between the center wheels and the two outside ones is ~5.5 studs. It would be inconvenient to place the middle wheel in that position if I wanted to implement working drive rods. For this model, I used a technique called selective compression. Selective compression is a modeling technique where certain features of the prototype may be reduced or omitted to reduce the size of the model. For example, a model-maker might omit some windows on a building while retaining their size and spacing, resulting in a smaller model. For the above model, I shortened the distance between the first and last driving axle by 1 stud: This yielded a more usable spacing of 5 studs between axles. Conclusion I hope you've enjoyed this look into my planning process for train models. Let me know your thoughts. If there's interest, I'll continue this series with some posts on building and motorizing models. Cheers!

The bicycle unit doesn't have any wheels, so you'd have to change the articulation. However, a vertical M-motor mounting isn't that unusual for diesel locomotive designs. A simple variation to remove the pivot yields this: LDD file You'll still need the battery box and receiver. My general experience with building small trains is that the PF train motor will be more compact than any other setup. Gear trains with Technic motors will generally have better low-speed characteristics and pulling power.

Very clever. Although I normally build more realistic models, I find the "official" lego style quite charming. It seems like you should use the 80s wheelsets to make it fit better with the rest of the train, though?

I will also vouch for a cargo train, such as 60052 or 60098. 60052 has nice trackside structures and comes with two switches. 60098 is looked upon with some disdain by Adult Fans Of Lego, but the variety of train cars may have a lot of play value for a child. I'm also surprised that no one has suggested 10254 Winter Holiday Train (it's even thematically appropriate!). Note: 10254 isn't powered, which will be fine if your son is interested in just pushing the train along. To motorize it you will need a motor, battery box, receiver, and transmitter. Finally: I wouldn't worry too much about the rechargeable battery. If your son likes the set, and you find yourself going through AAA batteries that fast, consider yourself lucky to have such a problem! (Then come here again and we can help you).

It looks like the driveshaft is immediately under the M motor and therefore can't have any gears on it. We should make a global boxcabs thread or something. Do the Eurobricks Forums support groups?

My mistake, hit "quote" instead of edit. Can a mod delete this post of mine?

I think you nailed the overall shape, although the sideframes seem under-detailed compared to the rest of it. However, I think powering the blind wheels won't add anything because they float just above the tracks. You can join the Boxcab Consortium with me, Commander Wolf, and dr_spock :)

Hi everyone, Normally I build train stuff, but some random inspiration seized me late one night. So I buit a miniland-style figure of Shiki Eiki from Touhou Project: For those of you unfamiliar with the canon of Touhou Project, Shiki Eiki is a yama, or judge of deceased souls ("Yamaxanadu" is a title describing an adminstrative region). The item she's holding, the Rod of Remorse, is used for beating sinners. If you're curious you can read more here. Touhou being well known for hats, I started there: The hat is based around this part and a whole bunch of clips. I dont currently have the parts to build this model in the brick, but I tested to make sure the clips would fit. The hat should have some ribbons on the back, but I couldn't come up with a good way to do so. Maybe using actual ribbons? I think she's supposed to be taller than this, but it's hard to tell with the art style. Thanks for reading. REPENT!

Check the wheels on the train motor. Are the tires worn, cracked, or stiff? If so, you'll want to replace them. I used this part last time, although there appear to be variations even among the original Lego tires.

Thanks for all the kind words, everyone. Thanks for that info. That makes it a bit tricky to use these "prototypically"... Generally I don't build models of things that other people have already modeled, but I felt like my interpretation of the prototype was going to be different than yours. I'm actually pretty surprised that you didn't use the double-curve for the roof on yours -- what was the reasoning behind that? I think this is about the upper limit of what can be done without looking too silly on standard R40 curves. After the postwar period rolling stock starts to reach "modern" lengths so I haven't seriously considered anything built after 1960 or so.

Greetings, Train Tech! I build a lot of locomotives, but I hadn't really built any models of rolling stock with the same effort as I put into my locomotives. Until now. This is a model of a German Umbauwagen, or "rebuilt coach". They were constructed in the post-WW2 period by modernizing prewar compartment coaches, as the Deutsche Bundesbahn was strapped for cash at the time. They came in two main "flavors": the three-axle 3yg, and the four-axle 4yg I've modeled here. I initially learned about Umbauwagen while doing research for this passenger car (which itself was found while doing research for the glaskasten...). Inspecting an engineering diagram convinced me that it would be possible to build the 4-axle variant at my usual scale of 15 inches / stud (~1/48) and have it go around standard Lego curves. The main compromise I made was to reduce the length of the body from 51 to 50 studs. An even length made it possible to use the 2x8 double curved slope for the roof and the 1x4x3 train window. Since the window only comes in a limited palette of colors I wound up building in blue. My understanding is that Umbauwagen ran most of their lives in green livery, but I found photos of models in a variety of colors. I'd appreciate it if someone more familiar with these cars could shed some light on this subject. Of course, it's not much of a train with only one car... ... so I built two. I'm pleased with how closely the cars couple to each other while still being able to make it around turns. While doing background research for this model I came across Duq's rendition. Duq's model features an excellent rendition of the Minden-Deutz MD 36 bogie. Rather than just steal those, I decided to model the my cars with the Schwanenhals ("swan neck") bogies. These bogies have a somewhat American appearance with their arched outside frame. The buffers and stairs are attached to the trucks and rotate with them in curves. The trucks use Big Ben Bricks wheels. This may mark the first time I've completed cars without a locomotive to go with them. Full Brickshelf gallery here (pending moderation). Thanks for reading!

At the lowest speed setting the train motor doesn't produce much in the way of torque, and I find it goes a bit too fast for my taste. Plus, you'd have to buy another motor in that case right?

The primary drawback with this approach is that you will lose some traction because you no longer have the weight of the battery box on the wheels. A bigger concern to me though is that the train motor is very fast and hard to control, so I wouldn't use it on a shunter. It sounds to me like you already have some PF motors and some experience with Technic, so why not use those and build a Technic drivetrain, which will be more controllable?

Mine all sound like that, although some are a bit quieter. I suspect the smaller gears have a worse profile and thus make more noise. I've noticed a sizeable variation in the speed from motor to motor as well.

Greetings, Train Tech. It's been about a year since CommanderWolf and I built the GE boxcabs, so here's another "boxcab": ... "glass box", that is. These locomotives were originally built for the Royal Bavarian State Railways with the designation "PtL 2/2". The unusual design featured a semi-automatic coal feed system, which did away with the fireman and allowed single-person operation. The boiler was surrounded by a cab with many windows, leading to the nickname of Glaskasten ("glass box"). During nationalization they were lumped into class 98 ("branch line locomotives"). Some survived the war to join the Deutsche Bundesbahn, which is the livery I've chosen to model here. This is another model with a large amount of SNOT-work; there are studs pointing in all directions. The frame is built studs-forward, the body features studs facing left/right for the doors and sides, and the side windows are upside down. Did I mention it's powered? The entire thing is powered by a micromotor driving the front axle: Note that the jackshaft doesn't actually extend through the locomotive; the 2x2 round plates on either side are carried along by the connecting rod between the front and rear axle. I used this technique to try to give extra grip to the BBB medium wheels. The battery box is in the cab. The smokebox comes off for access to the power switch: Here it is with the two-axle passenger car I posted a couple months ago. This loco struggles a lot more in turns than the 23-ton boxcabs did... Brickshelf gallery here (pending moderation). Thanks for reading!