Ludo

@Coaster, Still an other question. I'll see on the picture posted from Cale (PennLUG's train layout at Philly Brick Fest) that changing direction is done with a rotating mechanism, which is different from the LEGO points. I guess (hope) that the hole from this rotating mechanism goes straight trough the bottom plate, making it possible to use an electric driven mechanism under the table, like a motor, servo motor or something else. I can't see it on the posted pictures.

Hi Coaster, Thanks for seeing the angled guard rails as innocent, great. Looking forward to a CAD sample. Also a thank you for the tip to remove the tubes (posts) on the underside of the tile. In this case, we don't even need hollow studs, isn't it? And the remark from Carbon60 could be solved this way. Perhaps not everyone will ballast his track, and solves their problem too (no open studs). You can't please everyone. There will be always pro's & cons. As we say, a medal will always have 2 sides, and some will always like one side more than the other one.

Hi Coaster, Thanks for the fast reply, and willing to take a look for the guard rails! Concerning the lookalike as the points from TLC, I'll agree with David Hensley to have a more realistic point. Anyhow, your track is LEGO(R) COMPATIBLE, not made by TLC. What I mean is that you have no obligation to make them lookalike to the LEGO(R) points. It's your idea, and the community give you some - valuable - input, and I think that this is the way to do it. As written in previous message, it's better to prevent problems than to cure them afterwards. If those proposals (guide rail & frog guide rail) where not necessary in real life, them I'm convinced that the points would look completely different. They are added for some reason. Regarding the question from David Hensley to add hollow studs to place a 1x3 tile as ballast: What if you can add a 1x3 tile where both ends are cut away , so making the tile a bit shorter, but still centered over the hollow studs? The 1x3 tile ends are so close to the rail guards that no one would notice it. I know, it's cheating, but could be a possibility to add the ballast as realistic as possible, without a significant gap. I don't mind to cut bricks to make a model or building as realistic as possible, did it before. And for the little few tiles that need to be cut, I think that no one would hesitate to do it if it adds to realism. Don't shoot me abouth the idea of cutting a few tiles, it's just an idea that I like. Note: TLC = The LEGO Company

@M_slug357, thanks for this verry fast reply. I agree with you that including more angled rail guards adds to realism. Now is the time to do it. Also great to read that there are no problems with 2-6-2 & 2-8-2 engines passing this point. I was a bit concerned because the LEGO points are no ideal ( nor realistic) design. Prevention is always better than curing, isn't it? I have not many steamers to run with, and most of the time, i'll keep them on sideways as a static model. I'm building a Type 29 (see: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NMBS/SNCB_Type_29 [English]) and would like them to run smoothly in curves and points. The driver wheels don't have the same spacing. The distance between the first 3 is identical, but is larger between the 3-th & 4-th. See pictures below. Still need the driver rods and upload some pictures on Brickshelf. Anyhow, this one can't run on R40 curves, nor pass a point on the deviation track.

Hi Coaster, I'm taking a look at the point and was wondering why the guard rail on the straight track doesn't have the same 'angled entry' as the guard rail on the deviating track. Shouldn't this also be the same angle (15 degree), or what you using? Better to get this also right before molds are made. The 'almost' 90° angle on the LEGO rail guard give sometimes a 'problem' because the wheel flange hits the rail guard entry. While using a rail guard entry for both rail guards (straight & deviating) like the one for the deviating track (15 degree?) will force the wheel flange to go gently against the track. I'm also thinking on steamers with a single front axle like a 2 - 6 - 2 Those are realy sensible to hit the rail guard, because there's no second axle on the leading 'bogie' to keep the wheels lining up, like the Emerald. I hope you understand my explanation, English is'n my native language, you see. See also the second picture of a Fleishman point, where you can see that the rail guards have on every end the same angled 'entry' to force the wheel flange smooth to the rail.

Thanks Coaster to clarify this issue. I wish everyone a lot of succes, and prefer molded track (9V ), larger radius but also the larger points like your prototype. Like it a lot. Don't forget the European market too. Import from out of Europe is expensive (import taxes, VAT + administration cost + shipping), molding in Europe & USA could be a solution for this issue. With too high import tax on an expensive item, the interested European AFOL's in those tracks will be much less than at an afordable / reasonable price. Something to keep in mind, especially in this niche market. Being an old bloke (58 years ) i think that those great ideas will come a bit late for me. Ludo

Hi Lowa, I'm losing track at the moment. again someone starting with custom LEGO compatible train track & switches. we have now: ME Models Bricktrax 4DBRIX did i forget someone else? why don't you all join forces to create one single product? We all know that molds are verry expensive, creating everytime similar molds (straight track & R56,R72, ...) is in my opinion a waste of money that could be better used. Just my remark. correct me if i'm wrong. Ludo

Thanks Coaster for the fast reply. I wish you and ME all the luck to get this to a happy end for every one. It's alway a high risk to start something like this. Hats off and respect for the pioneers.

Hi, I agree with you that it is a disapointment when your sleepers pop of the track. I don't have such track at home, but i know from my childhood (end of the 60's) that the old 4,5V blue rails and the white 2x8 plates did not stuck together. They disassembled also very easily and was also irritating for a kid. I think that Coaster will admit that the aproach from ME has a lot to do with mold cost. If you can reuse a single mold for different track pieces (straight & radii in this case the sleepers and connectors), it brings down the initial cost to start up. I hope that the different answers here brings up an aceptable solution for you. Seeing the aproach from Coaster makes the choise wich larger radii i would like to buy even more difficult. Not even speaking of the price and the import taxes in Europe. And even when you have a reseller in Europe, then you have - according to me - high shipping rates if it send as a parcel. 10 to 13 Euro is common for a small parcel coming from abroad.

Hi 3797 & Coaster, Thanks for the fast reply. I still have 2 questions regarding the 9V track. Are you using the same kind of 'metal sheet' to make the 9V track like LEGO used to do, or are you using the same principle as ME Models using Code 100 metal track? I noticed trough the years 2 weak places on the LEGO 9V track which are the 'finger' connection at the end of the track and the 'jigsaw' track connection. Looking at the renderings i think this will be the same problem. some of my track 'finger' connections are bend upwards due to ungentle disassembling the track after a show. and a few are missing the 1 x 4 'jigsaw' connection at the end of the track. This is a weak point too. Gently disassembling the costly custom track will be necessary. Regards, Ludo

Hi Coaster, is there a website available for BrickTrax? Can't find a valid site for BrickTrax. are there pictures available for your kind of track? Thanks, Ludo

A few years ago, i made a Bricklink order in the USA for $ 750.00 and paid an extra € 186.00 on import tax + VAT + administation cost! Thats a real killer, and the reason I buy now my stuff only in European community countries. Norway for example is not a member of the European community, well, if customs intercept the parcel, its bingo! Smuggle is possible, but only in very small quantities and most of all only for personal use.

I guess with " running the motors "bare"? " is running the motor alone on the track to see witch one runs faster. because they are very cheap 'mass produced 3 pole rotor' motors, there will be always a speed difference. motors with a 5 pole rotor run smoother and have a higher torque too. you can compare it with a 4 cylinder engine and a 8 cylinder engine.

Thanks for this clarification. Tought that DHL, or any other freight handler could be cheaper. Tought wrong . Ludo

I hope that ME Models will find a second shiping partner providing cheaper shipping price to Europe. As stated by Duq, price in Europe (Brickshop.nl) are very expensive too. And don't forget to add the shipping cost from Holland to where you live in Europe (more than €10,00! for Belgium). And as HoMa stated in his message, import taxes are also very high for us (customs administration fee [+- €13,00] + import tax + VAT on the total amount [= goods + shipping cost]), making it all way too expensive. I doubt if I will buy it, though I would like to have some, like them very much.

Hi James, Verry nice tree indeed. Is there a kind of pattern to follow when adding the sprues and the stem length? Kind regards from a former Ambassador (BeLUG) Ludo

Steven V - 3 Emma - 2

Hi Alain(neke), I'm also from Belgium, and like your modifications on the EN! I would like to do the same modifications. Just ordered the needed pieces. :) i like to get this ready by end April this year so i can use the EN on the Steam Center Maldegem show on 3 & 4 Mai 2014. i would like to meet you too, so if possible you're welcome! The used smoke generator is a Seuthe, any particular type? When looking at the Conrad site, there are different types available. regards, Ludo

Hi all, I'm new here, so don't shoot me if i post my question i the wrong topic. I'm trying to add connection points to the tables, for easely aligning in eather direction. I have already something working, but i don't understand the <angleToPrevious> and <angleToNext> statements. What do you mean with previous and next point? update: I think I've found the answer in other XML files. These points are (mostly) the connection point on the opposite side to make horizontal / vertical placement next to each other. But the sign of the value (+ or -) is still a mystery. Any one who can explain when to use a + or - sign? regards, Ludo