kyphur

You're welcome, as I said there will be more to come as the sets arrive and get built. Regarding the buildings, I just got a disappointing answer from the Chinese seller. He says the buildings were never put into production by Enlighten. I can hardly believe I just wrote that I'm disappointed that Enlighten didn't produce a set!

Well I received the first of five boxes from China today with 4 of the 19 Enlighten Train Sets I ordered (1 of each plus an Extra "Frisco Fe"). Here is the Flickr Set where I'll be posting comparison shots of the Enlighten & Lego Versions based on the same prototypes. My initial impression is that I'm surprised by this set. I was really expecting something of much less quality but the parts all had great clutch strength and the finished model feels rather solid. Of course it's not up to TLG standards but it's definitely a lot better than I expected. On the downside the printed portholes color doesn't match the brick colors very well. I like some of the build features of the Enlighten version over TLG's like the fact that the engineer's cabin has doors. I also like how the Enlighten front bogie is 1 stud longer than TLG's version (but they didn't include a coupler fro the front). Of course there are things I don't like about the Enlighten version. The mechanical undercarriage is just open to the world. There's no door/baffle on the back of the Locomotive. I also wish the yellow stripe on the nose extended all the way to the Windscreen. For playing inside/access to the Engine the rear half of the Enlighten Loco hinges up! I'm not really sure if I like that as much as TLG's standard removable roof design. Accompanying the Frisco Fe (#629) were #628 - Enlighten Passenger Car, #627 - Enlighten Steam Locomotive & #625 - Happy Christmas Locomotive. I'll be posting images of all of the Enlighten Trains and their TLG equivalents (if they exist and I have them) as I receive & build them. I noticed on the back of the boxes that Enlighten has track side structures also which include a full Station, a simple Train Stop, a Level Crossing (with signal tower) and an Engine Shed. After I'm done with the Locomotives and rolling stock I just might pony up the cash to grab one of each of those sets as well.

Could we get the LDD file for the Semi? This is something I'd love to add to the MOD/MOC MOW Train Set I'm working on.

Here is the first of 3 planned real physical models of my MOC: In Green with the original roof design.

Nice!!!

I like the updates to the Semi...

To embed Flickr images here's what I do: in my Flickr photostream I right click on the image and select "Medium 640". After the image loads in the size I selected I right click and select "Copy Image URL". Now in my post there are buttons above the text box, one resembles a photo (really looks like an old Polaroid), click on it and paste the URL in there. Voila! You've embedded a Flickr Image! I think if you're going to do the OTM Tracker properly then it needs to be able to attach to the top of cars like the prototype. Taking the approach of the OTM Tracker & the Semi Flatbed being to separate models frees-up some of the restrictions on the semi but means the OTM's Rail frame needs to be built differently so it can attach to the flat bed or a train car the same way.

You might want to look into getting a Flickr account. Pics there are immediately available and then you can also embed an image or five in your post here so we don't have to go off-site to get a taste of your project. Regarding the couplers, in RailBricks the image of the prototype clearly shows a front coupler and the text specifically mentions the rear one. This thread on another forum has some great reference pics! This is a vehicle I was considering visiting for a MOC/MOD as I'm working on building my MOW Train. Current plans are to use my MOD Shortened Loco from 3677 with my MOC Transfer Caboose. I like the truck that comes in 3677 but not the car that carries it, the crane is useless.

Since your images are view-able yet I can't see but I'm wondering if you added the missing couplers (front & rear) that the RailBricks model didn't include?

The intent is simply to let others know that the PF Train Motors are once again in stock as they've been out of stock for most of the year.

I finally got one of my 2 orders for 5 each 88002 PF Train Motors! I originally placed the orders mid-June... Now I can finally finish my PF Conversions...

In the LDD subforum they talk about enabling Universe Mode (or something like that) to get the bricks in any color and also unlock some additional bricks.

Now that's friggin awesome! I just love it when someone finds a real life piece of equipment that doesn't get much attention and executes it perfectly.

Have you modified any to work this way? I have 7 of them and this is the only thing that really bothers me about them.

I agree this Train Station really should be in Train Tech and would be a great entry in the 7777 Redux Contest on Flickr...

While I like the texture of my first roof I've always felt it was just a bit too tall. If I wasn't trying to stay true to the prototype then I would have gone a different route. One of my earliest designs actually used the curved slopes for a studless roof. I'm also playing with colors. The original green won't work because the windows aren't available (well there are only 2 on BL and they're $25 each!). Red, Yellow, Black & White are all possibilities. I'm leaning towards Yellow (seems to be a popular color in the 7777 Book).

Yes but I honestly would prefer it becomes something that is readily available to the "masses" (as in all of us Train fans who would want it) versus some guy in his garage hand-building them piece by piece...

If the problem with selling these commercially is basically that they are made of actual LEGO parts which have been modified then why not contact someone like ME-Models (who is already manufacturing LEGO compatible metal tracks) and seeing if they'd be interested it taking what you've got a further developing it into something that is commercially viable? If they built a housing that could snap onto LEGO plates then you eliminate LEGO having leverage in stopping the sales.

This is the best explanation I've stumbled across: "Transfer cabooses were typically used for short transfer runs between different yards in an area. This is why they are typically low rent affairs. Thus the use of an old flatcar or caboose no longer usable for main line traffic (due to outdated brakes or car type, e.g. trussrod frame). They were also used for crew transfers from one area on the RR to another." So basically it's just something cheap to keep the more expensive Cabooses available for service on the main lines. Thanks, When I go 8-Wide I'll probably SNOT it up but then I won't be limited by the rules of a contest.

Oh man that's wild! Looks like they've modified the railing on the open ends so you enter/exit right over the buffer/coupler so that they could line the sides on the deck evenly with tables. If you do the Kiski Junction #200 conversion please do share it with me, it's neat to inspire someone else's build...

Very well said!

Oh, I see your problem... I can't remember the last time i [willingly] used IE...

Or just click "Share" and grab the URL from the textbox!

Was that what you meant by "building off the base"? I'd never heard that phrase before. Thanks for the suggestion, it actually prompted me to add the shade over the doors at the same time.

Thanks for the compliment. You're right the prototype is really a boring bit of rolling stock but in reality there are a lot of boring train bits in the universe and they need some love too! The main reason I choose this type of Caboose is exactly because it seems to have been overlooked and yet it makes a perfect companion piece for the new 3677 Red Train Set (which is another reason I choose it), I mean it has all of the MOW gear but no place for the work crew and their stuff. I'm going to stock the cabin with tools and maybe even drop a welder on the rear deck when I built this in living brick! I'm curious to know what you think might be "a hair too complicated" for the contest. I think the most advanced build technique is using the jumper plates to get the 1/2 stud overhang at each end of the cabin roof. Here are a couple more images showing the "hidden" structure: