kyphur

Thanks, I should have the "hardboard" base attached to the table surfaces by the end of November then I'll lay the baseplates for the Perimeter Loop of track and the Switching Yard. My big goal is to have the Yards (including the Freight Yard) operational for Trains before Christmas. Maybe I should make some of those portable buildings my workers can use as offices & such until they can get the actual offices built? The Roads for the trucks can come later. In the meantime I just started pondering the Train Tunnel that will sit next to the Bridge... Here's the list of parts needed just to lay the track and plate the surface: * 333 - Baseplate 32 x 32 * . 9 - Baseplate 16 x 32 * 279 - Track, Flexible * 269 - Track, Straight *. 71 - Track, Curve *. 10 - Track, Point Right * . 8 - Track, Point Left * . 1 - Track, 90 Deg Crossing Here's an image of the updated track plan: Here is the link to the whole set

Nice, do you have any images of the prototype? The pantograph design is nice but it does look like it's either a bit large or the engine beneath it is a bit small. I'm just wondering if that's the scale of the original or kind of forced by the limitations of the medium (Lego)?

I would like more information on using NXT to control points. The layout I'm working on is massive and it would be great to have remote control of my points.

Well the center pillar does more than just provide support, it will separate the rail line and the 2 lane road that will pass under the bridge. I may just add the 1x7 lift arm {beam} just to connect the two trusses anyway. Okay, I kind of agree with you, I mean I'd love to build the trusses entirely but due to the scope of this project I'm willing to make a compromise here and there to get to the point where I can actually run trains. Eventually I'll probably revisit the bridge at some point. BTW, here's a link to a video of my MOD Short 3677 Shunter and MOC Transfer Caboose crossing both inclines and the bridge! First test run over the bridge

Sure, $13.99 each

Bricklink was good to me, inventory reduced: 9volt Track ------------ 122 - Curve 0 - Straight 1 - Switch Left 1 - Switch Right

Yeah, I paid $7.50 each to get my 4 Grey ones but they look great. I'm thinking of buying another set of 4 just in case. Here's the "Fit Test" for the Bridge: My green transfer caboose is the tallest rolling stock in my inventory so if it fits then everything else will. Of course the side structure isn't the actual design, just a temp connector for those lovely parts (sadly waiting on a BL order for the 2x8 Gray Bricks)... And the middle Pillar isn't in the pic so I could put the shunter & transfer caboose under like I did. I haven't actually laid any track yet! I'm just "dry fitting" it at this point. Next step is to sheet the tables with baseboard (either 1/8 or 1/4 inch) and then get all of the baseplates down. Initially I'll just put basepates where the rails are running. First the perimeter loop will be put down (which includes the bridge and tunnel). Then I'll lay the switching yard and freight yard. Honestly the town will be the last part to get planned and built so I can't say when it might happen. BTW, I've decided to ballast my track using 1 layer of Light Grey plates/tiles 10 wide. I'll pepper the ballast layer with black & dark grey 1x1 round plates here and there just to add a little texture. This layout is getting insanely expensive! The baseplates alone are enough to cover Christmas!

Don't misunderstand me, I'm impressed with how well the flex track does work and the chain feature is great. The reason I need flex in the normal curve geometry is I'm using it for my inclines as the stretch in the Flex allows the track lengths to match the same horizontal distance despite the fact that they are on a slight (2 plates to 16 studs) incline. I've been able to get it close enough by breaking it into sections grouped together.

For me it isn't about being cheap or not. If I only use 1 Channel per train then I have the option to independently control up to 8 trains whereas if I use a channel just to turn on the lights then I can only have up to 4. My layout will easily allow for more than 4 trains to run simultaneously: 3 In my town: 1 CTA (City Transit Authority, think L or subway within city limits), 1 RTA (Regional Transit Authority, think Train from the suburbs into the big city) and finally a Local Freight Loop. 1 on the Perimeter Loop: Which will represent a Cross Country Line. It would be nice to have a second loop attached here (and I just might with a double crossover above my tunnel (next to the bridge giving me a smaller (3 or 4 table) elevated loop which would then raise my total isolated loop lines to 5. Now of course I'll need at least 1 Shunter on duty in the switching yard and ferrying rolling stock to the Freight Yard so now I'm up to 6. My Turntable is currently connected to an IR Receiver and uses the smaller IR Remoter for control so there's 7 Frequency/Channel combinations used up. Eventually I'd like to wire my Switches (Points) but that would be hard-wiring not IR Remote (unless TLG gives us addressable WiFi or BT at a reasonable price). At that point my Turntable might get converted to hard-wire but TLG lacks a momentary switch (that I'm aware of). Finally I would really like a Remote Cargo Crane to transfer containers between Ship/Train/Truck. So as you can see those 8 little frequency/channels can get crowded really quickly!

Ah, well I use LiPos in most of my trains so I never encountered this issue. I did know that the LiPo Speed Controller will adjust the brightness of the lights though. Nice to know that you need a LiPo if you want to have Lights always on when the Battery Box is on.

I'll be working on polishing-up the Building Instructions for the bridge over the next few days and should have complete instructions posted by next weekend. I like the bridge and it does remind me of the bridge structures from the 7777 Idea Book so this will be my 3rd and final 7777 Redux Contest Entry!

If you want the lights to be on whenever the battery box is on then you need to attach a PF Lights directly to the battery box. You can do this by stacking the connection on top of the IR Receiver's connector or using a PF Extension Cable connected directly to the battery box and both the IR Receiver & PF Lights connected to the Extension. either 8886: (at BrickLink, at LEGO) or 8871: (at BrickLink, at LEGO)

+1 for Sokratesz, he went out of his way to ensure I understood the exact condition fo the book before I bought it. He was spot-on accurate and I'm happy with the book. and +1 for Veeb0rg, quickly shipped mint condition PF Track and is a pleasure to deal with.

PERFECT! I couldn't agree with your whole post any more than I do but this is the best of the best... 4.5v, 12v, 9v, RC, PF are all just a way to make the models move. They each have their pluses & minuses. Personally I've never understood the nostalgic 12v thing. Sure the powered switches & crossings are neat but that's what you really want then you can get those parts and add them to a 9v, RC or PF layout, can't you? Most of the models don't appeal to me, they just seem simplistic. I completely understand the lust for the 9v Models but not the longing for the power delivery system. I mean if you want to run multiple trains on connected tracks then 9v isn't going to do it for you. The models are great though, I mean it truly was the "Golden Age" of Official LEGO Engines & Rolling Stock. I doubt I even need to say anything about RC, the whole idea of having to build every engine around a fixed receiver/battery box on the same base is just so UN-LEGO I'm not surprised it died as quickly as it did. While PF has it's downsides (Battery Box and IR Receiver size being the biggest - literally) it seems to be a reasonable compromise. Only time will tel if the PF Era can compare to the 9v Era but I think they're off to an okay start. The Maersk is a great Loco and the "Red Cargo Train" is a nice Shunter. The Passenger & Yellow Cargo Trains are decent renditions of Electric Engines. I'm not a fan of the Emerald Night (I'm not really sure why, just don't like it) but as a model goes it's great. Isn't it nice that the gauge of the track has remained unchanged through the years?

That's exactly what I was going for. I don't want the pillars to take away from the bridge, inclines or the rest of the layout but I also don't want them to just be plain rectangles. I've seen Concrete Pillars around here that look similar to this design. For me it's BrickLink. I just look-up the brick I want in the catalog and click on the link for the color I want under "Lots for sale". Next I use the filter to narrow the list by sellers in the US (cheaper shipping of course) and minimum quantity I need. Then I take the store with the lowest price and the quantity I want. Of course I always buy a few bucks extra just to bump-up my inventory of parts.

Thanks for the compliments on the bridge... Here's what I'm thinking of doing for the Support Pillars: BTW, I'm thinking that this might end-up being my third entry in the 7777 Redux Contest. I was working on a container crane but have really gotten into the layout and haven't really progressed on the crane much but I think this bridge is very much along the lines of the 7777 Idea book. Clearance is 14 Bricks. Dimensions: 16 Studs Wide, 68 Studs Long, 32 Bricks Tall

Thanks, my thoughts exactly on the Flex Track. I also decided to not go crazy on the structure because sometimes there is elegance in simplicity. Eventually there'll be a little more but for now this will be just fine.

Here's the first version of my Train Bridge:

Already tried that and I still get the slippage but it's worse (I think because it's smoother. I'm thinking if trying to coat at least one side of the track with "Grip Tape" and see if that helps. I'd really prefer to be able to use Flex Track for the whole incline on both sides because it "stretches" just enough that I don't have to adjust for the fact that the slope side of the triangle is actually a bit longer than the ground level side. BTW, My inclines are going to be 22 Sections in Length and rise 14 Bricks & 1 Plate! My actual Bridge will be 4 Sections long. A 2 lane roadway and 1 set of track will pass under the bridge. Next to the bridge will be an elevated bit of landscape also 4 Sections long that will have a Tunnel passing under the track with a single set of track passing through. Both stretches of track will be in the loop used to move Empty Freight Cars into the Freight Yard Empty and back to the Switching Yard loaded.

I'm really liking this software, it's working great for working on my Massive Layout (315 32x32 Baseplates). I am having an issue with Flex-Track, it works pretty good but I can't get it to do normal curve geometry.

Incline for the Bridge: Notice all of the track is Flex Track. It has a little give lengthwise which allows my pillars to line-up with the plates below. The slope is 2 Plates for each Length of Track (a Length is 16 studs). It takes 16 Lengths to rise 10 Bricks! Unfortunately my "Shorty" Shunter can only pull 1 boxcar up the incline, I guess my Freight Locomotives will need to be converted to dual PF Train Motors if they're going to run on the Cross-Country Line! There are other updated pics in my flickr stream.

I don't know, a layout is kind of a personal thing to have someone else design for you isn't it? I mean you need to decide what you want in it, not "What do I have" and work from there. I'ts taken me a while to get mine started (I've only been into LEGO Trains since April) but when I listed everything I really wanted on the layout it became obvious that I would need a massive space. That's how I ended-up with 15 29 1/2 x 72 inch banquet tables lined-up asymmetrically in my basement. Here is my Layout Thread Things that I knew I must have: - a Wye - a Turntable - a Locomotive Yard - a Locomotive Maintenance Facility - a Switching Yard - a Cargo/Freight Yard with a dock - a Line connecting the Yards together - a Tunnel - a Bridge - a "Cross Country Line" the could run long distance trains without touching the "Local" Lines - a Town - a Local Freight Line around the town - a Local Passenger Line around the town - a Commuter Line (doesn't leave the town) - if possible I want the Passenger line to have a Station/Stop near the Yards.

Thanks, I guess I just didn't search on the correct keywords....

How far apart do you place your pylons? I'm asking because I want a bridge (and tunnel) in my Massive layout. I'm thinking of building a small hill for the tunnel where the track would climb an incline on one side then a bridge would come off the other side. Seems like a neat way to incorporate both while saving some real estate on the layout.

16 Curves, 8 Straights & 1 of each Switch are gone.. 9volt Track ------------ 122 - Curve 170 - Straight 4 - Switch Left 4 - Switch Right 11 Straights are pending agreement. Everything else is freely available now.