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Vee

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Everything posted by Vee

  1. Vee
    Then I am doing something wrong because I need it! <LXF file>
  2. Vee
    A probably dumb question but regarding Technic parts I see that there are "levers" and "beams", the levers being only half the depth of the beams. There is a 2M beam with two circular holes in it and there is a 2M lever with two cross holes in it. My question is why there is NOT a 2M lever with two circular holes in it?
  3. Vee
    I think I got a solution. It is heavily based on TwentyLeggedHen's own solution. Black, white, red and dark orange bricks cannot be moved, they are part of the roof structure. Space around is very restricted now. The two 1x2 grey bricks with two holes are also connected to the roof tiles, so very secure. I'd like to have used a 2M lever with two circular holes but since it seems it does not exist, I had to use the 4M lever that has two circular holes in the center. Tan bricks are in place of the light brick for testing purposes. All seems to work fine now, at least in LDD. <LXF file - resting position> <LXF file - pushed position> In the "pushed position", 4M lever hits the white brick at the same time the grey axle reaches the top of the tan brick (= on/off button fully pressed).
  4. Vee
    @TwentyLeggedHen: how do you make sure that the red axle (grey in your build), the one that you push to turn on the light, will effectively carry the blue cross block along with it instead of just sliding through/inside it? It is just based on the friction between the two parts? Is this safe?
  5. Vee
    I moved a little the light brick and the L-shaped lever works. Pic 1 Pic 2
  6. Vee
    Thanks for the clarifications. I will now study your answers . I just found a flaw in my solution. I was counting on having the light brick held by its two center holes, as LDD allows me too. However, I decided to do some real testing here, I disassembled partially my Family House (31012) to get a light brick, and I found that my Quad Bike (8282) has the L-Shaped lever that I need. Well, I assembled a structure to simulate what I will have, did all things needed and then, when I tried to connect the light brick to the 1x2's with a hole in the middle, it would not connect! To my dismay and sadness, I found that the light brick does not have those two holes as a perfect circle, like all bricks. Because it has the small screw right there in the center (to allow replacing the battery), the two holes are not circular and nothing will connect to them. DANG! As for your solution, I can only test in LDD since it uses pieces that I don't have.
  7. Vee
    @TwentyLeggedHen: Well, after some more attempts, this is the best I could come up with based on your original design; some parts are missing but it doesn't matter, what matters is how your lever system works. I have used some different colors just for the sake of making it easier for me to identify the parts. http://prntscr.com/2jl68b <LXF File> My questions: - Is the yellow Technic 5M Lever, and everything connected to it, just an reinforcement? - In LDD, the green Technic 2M Lever does not connect to the green axle, as I assume it is supposed to; I then assume that due to some slack, this connection is possible with real bricks, is that right? - it works like this: you push the red axle, it moves the blue cross block ahead, taking the green axle with it, the green axle moves the green 2M lever that moves the blue axle that moves the lime 2M lever that TURNS the dark green 2M lever down, pressing then the light brick button. Is that right? - What is the 14 gear for? I couldn't see a reason for it. Is it being used just as a spacer? LDD, as far as I can tell, does not have this part. - What is that medium bley bush for cross axle doing near the 1x3 black flat tile, in your original design? I can't see that side of your build. - You mentioned a "1x5 liftarm": is this part the same as the Technic 5M Lever? If I can understand how your mechanism works, I can try to implement it and see if it brings better result than what I have now. Thanks.
  8. Vee
    Maybe if a lot of people complained about the Tower of Pisa, Lego would make a flat tile in Italian and send to those that bought it? Also, I don't like the "leaning" part. In Brazil it is known only as Torre de Pisa. Everyone knows that it is leaning, it is famous because it is leaning, why add it to the name? Dumb.
  9. Vee
    I have two problems with your solution. First is that I cannot replicate it, because I cannot figure out what you did based on your pictures. I look at the pictures, look, look, look, I have even cropped them, resized them to make them bigger and increased exposure to see behind the shadows, but still I can't figure it out. There are parts there that I can't see and also, I am not versed in Technic parts, I am like a rookie. So it is certainly not your fault but mine. The second problem is that, based on what I could see, I am afraid it will not fit. If you see my sketch, note that the axle that pushes the button is aligned with the light brick. Your solution makes me believe it is not. You moved the block to the side. What happens is that in my real scenario (there is a link to a pic of it some posts above this), the axle cannot be relocated; the brick maybe could be relocated, to the side, but I am afraid I don't have all the necessary space around to do so, as required by your solution. As I mentioned in a previous post, there are more space restrictions around the whole thing than what it is shown in the sketch. To really test and see if your solution would fit in the real scenario, I need to be able to understand it, replicate it, and I am not. Also, note that I do not work with real parts, I only work with LDD, because I don't have all the needed spare parts. I do the planning/design using only LDD then I buy the parts, after I think the thing is done.
  10. Vee
    I didn't even know what that thing was for some time. I would look at them, trying to figure out where I could use it (like a brick) but had no idea. One day, I don't remember why or how, I figured: this is a tool! From that point on, to realize how it worked was not difficult. I had never seen instructions until recently, after I already knew how to use it.
  11. Vee
    I finished my Eiffel Tower some days ago. My considerations: - I didn't like to see that the Eiffel Tower has the tile with its name in both English and French. Why? Because it got me upset that the Tower of Pisa did not have the same treatment. Why the Eiffel Tower deserves its name in its native language (which is great and I like it much better than in English) but the Tower of Pisa only comes with the English title? NOT FAIR! - It is a beautiful set and the designer of it must have had a tough time with mathematical calculations... or experimentation. The final result I found great! Different, unique, nice! - I am worried about those four rubber things (dunno their name) that we need to bend and attach between the four legs of the tower; they are not made of plastic, they are like rubber, IMO, and rubber, AFAIK, is not as durable as plastic. I wonder if 20-30 years from now, that rubber thing will still be there or will have dried and broken. All in all, a pleasant build, Worth the money!
  12. Vee

    LEGO Plan for 2014

    Vee replied to Andy D's topic in Community

    That happened to me with Fire Brigade. I was waiting for the "opportune moment" to buy it but it became "sold out" at S@H before I could act. I had to buy it from Target online, the only store that still had it at retail price. Lost 5% of it then. And it can happen again because I have Town Hall, Palace Cinema and Parisian Restaurant still to buy but I am waiting for the "opportune moment"... Of course only Town Hall is at risk, IMO. I hate the way Lego deals with its inventory. You never know when a set will be retired, you never know if there will be a promotion, when there is a promotion usually items vanish from S@H very quickly (as if they put them in promotion but there were really just a few of them in stock to be sold at that promotional price...), even the "Retiring Soon" label does not help because some items become sold out with never showing "Retiring Soon", it is really a mess and a gamble. Lego sucks, too bad I like their toys and will continue buying them, for now...
  13. Vee
    I removed the plate below, as a test, in LDD only, but LDD tells me that if I do that, the light brick will not fit. In reality it may fit if the L-shaped lever pushes down the on-off button not enough to turn on the light. Did you test this possibility? If yes, did all fit all right without turning on permanently the light? Thanks! Uhmmm, me dumb dumb. It is better without the plate. The two 1x1 bricks with a hole can just sit where the plate was connecting and the axle needs to be 2M longer. But I have the collision problem above, light brick x L-shaped lever.
  14. Vee
    Afraid that that light brick can "pop out" if too much force is applied to the axle, I added this "reinforcement". Looks like a hack but should work. The blue parts should actually be transparent clear.
  15. Vee
    Damn it! You're right. I simulated the turn in LDD and also found the problem you described. Removing that plate is problematic, it sits on top of some "beams", in a perfect position. I had thought also of lowering it, not to avoid this problem, that I had not foreseen, but to make the leverage from the axle to the L-shaped piece stronger. If the axle hits the L-shape piece higher, the better, less force needed to push it. I will take a look at the real situation and see how to lower that plate. DANG! Well, just found one solution but I don't know if it's good. I just removed the two 1x2 with one stud in the middle and placed only one horizontally. Now, the light brick is held by only two studs but the two in its center. Do you think this is strong enough?
  16. Vee
    I found the way below. I lowered the fx light brick the distance of on plate, then an "L" shaped lever should do the trick. I don't have the pieces to test in real life yet. Another angle: I am trying to avoid changing the structure because I am trying to keep as much as like the original, this is a MOD of a Lego set. By doing the way I showed, I am only changing one 1x2 brick, from 1x2 brick to 1x2 brick with a hole and all the other parts are additions, not replacements neither relocation.
  17. Vee
    Looks awesome, if I could just figure out what you did from the pictures ... Well, I _am_ trying. Changing to make it come from above is more complicated. Has to be as shown and, to make matters worse, the space around is restricted, more than shown in my sketch. I believe so. What I am trying to do actually is to add the light to my bricklinked Ole Kirk's House. If I can do it, then I plan on adding some interior to it. It already has landscape in the outside. Here is the full scenario.
  18. Vee
    It doesn't look like it would work. It is too big.
  19. Vee
    They are already, here in the US. Fire Brigade is gone.
  20. Vee
    Sorry, which is this piece? This one?
  21. Vee
    But isn't the light of the light brick kind of directional? I want its light to light down; if I use the light brick with studs up, light will have focus to the side, isn't it?
  22. Vee
    Is there some awesome Lego engineer here that could solve a problem for me? I am trying, but so far, no good. I want to find a way to, as I pull the red axle to the LEFT, it will turn on the light. I have not tested but I see that the light brick has a slope in its "button" and that probably, when I pull the red axle to the left, it will make that button to go down, hence turning on the light, but this is not a good solution because the axle will not come back automatically to its resting position, I will have to push it to the right to turn the light off and I wanted the axle to come back to the right when I stop pulling it to the left, by using the movement of the button itself (that always wants to go up) to move the axle to the right, once the force applied to it stops. Note that the red axle does not necessarily need to rest in the current position, it can rest at any position as long as it is still fully contained between the two 1x2 bricks with a hole. <LXF file> Thanks for any help.
  23. Vee
    . This is beautiful, I like your idea. The 1x4 masonry profile brick that jodawill mentions as a future release would solve the problem. We would use an offset of two studs between layers. But then there will be the cost...
  24. Vee
    Based on the pictures, I simply don't like that ship. But I have not seen it live although I doubt it would change my mind. The Imperial Flagship is an awesome ship, but this Maersk looks dull. PR is nice, really nice, and I will buy it, I just don't know when.
  25. Vee
    Thanks but the pics are too small for me to figure out any new technique. Sorry for spoiling your fun. . Masonry profiled 1x4?! THAT would really solve the problem! Another of my conspiracy theories is that TLG has a secret agreement with Bricklink sellers to never make the rare pieces (that are a lot) not rare so they can always be certain they will not lose money by investing in Lego sets to be parted out. I like medium flesh... Agreed, Offset is a much better word. To offset or not to offset, that is the question for the masonry bricks. That's one way but still not the ideal. What I have noticed is that Lego uses them very sparingly, just a few here, a few there, like "ornaments" of a wall, certainly to avoid the offset conundrum.
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