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I do so on a regular basis.

No.

Thank you both for sorting this out. Heh. I'm taking it as a compliment.

There's a list of priorities I have when building. Most of the time, it's arranged something like this: -Structural integrity. Functional parts should be attached thoroughly, and gears and axles should not be able to slip out / off during intensive use. -Functionality. The functions should work correctly. Often, simpler is better. That complicated and intricate mechanism is not going to impress if it falls apart every second time it's used. -Looks. One-stud connections, and connections that rely only on the friction of pins are minimized. Most of what I build is for or , and during those times, everything should just work and keep working. During transport, only minimal damage may occur, and should be easily fixed.

I would think a translation error.

Gearing something down, then up is inefficient. A worm gear is even more so. Can't you just gear something down a little less? Also, starting a topic with the title 'question' may not be such a great idea. It may get confusing if there's another person with a question. Perhaps you could try something a little more descriptive like 'question about worm gearing' or something like that.

Odd, that. I intentionally chose artists that allow their music to be used. Youtube doesn't care, it seems. Wired tells us that it's blocking ALL music videos in Germany. Bummer.

Well, that's the thing. I did use music, but it's under a license that allows public use. (It's a pain to find music without strings that doesn't sound like crap) I've uploaded an alternative. It misses 5 seconds of video and the credits, but that's because flickr doesn't allow longer videos. Here you go:

Edit: Someone told me that some people from Germany can't see this video. Does anyone else here have the same problem? DLuders; something like every half year or so; depending on what works out. Arfman; These meetings were in Gendringen. We're planning a new one, the 19th of September in Oss. If you want more info, check here. To see topics about meetings and so on you'll need to be registered, though. It takes a minute, but it's free. Otherwise, I'm here to answer any questions you might have. Countdown; They are indeed glorious. It's a testament to the best truckbuilder I know, Zblj. Due to circumstances beyond my control, it'll take a while before those instructions are released. However, if you take a look here I'm sure you can go a long way.

This is a non-chronological summary of two technic-themed meetings. What we (Dutch folk) noticed was that Germans are absolutely wonderful when it's about architecture (cite), but that they didn't quite know what to do with technic. So we convinced them to drag their parts to Holland and build with us. This was the result:

Try this, then.

Take one (or two) of these: Stick it inside this: And put an axle through both of them. There's a little slack, but it should work nicely.

Excellent work. You did a great job getting it all in there.

So what -is- the most likely suspect? High torque killing motors, or a faulty batch of motors? Bought it, haven't built it yet... I feel bad for the designer. This is going to be a huge money sink for Lego.

The brake and differential is a brilliant idea. Great work!

Meh. I made a decent profit on material costs, and I've already rebuilt it. I'm not worse off.

Great work once again. What impresses me most are the detailed building instructions, you've put a lot of time and effort in those. I may steal borrow your huge rear wheels at some point. Not only does it look badass, it also simplifies the end gearing a great deal. Do you have any issues using the PF rechargeable battery in combination with the RC motor? With my sneaker I had some problems where the controls would become unresponsive, and if the motor got stalled, the entire battery may shut off until it's been recharged. That's the kind of thing you don't want in a race. So, for now, I've gone back to PF XL motors. (And thank you so much for giving me credit)

I've sold my Igniz. Someone told me they wanted it. I explained that the Igniz represented a significant investment; Electronics: €120 Tracks and drive system: €100 Additional parts: €100 Custom stickers and printed parts: €20 And that due to my emotional attachment and the three months I spent developing it, I would not part with it for less than €500. I was quite amazed that he accepted my offer. It's in Switzerland now. But yeah, selling MOCs usually isn't worth it. Most people don't realise how expensive parts are, and how hard it is to make a good model.

The point is that the three-studs long blue technic pin is compressed in the middle. If this is a pin: _ ________| |________ ________ | | | | | > | | | < |________| |________|________| |_| | | Here If that part is compressed for a long time, the plastic may not spring back later, because it's been permanenty damaged.

Nice one! Could you post any pictures of the insides/mechanics?

Might I suggest that you're going about this entirely the wrong way? Studless is best built inside-out. First you build the mechanisms, then you make the chassis around it. Just like a brick-built house is built from the bottom up, (would be tricky to start at the roof) I recommend first making your mechanisms and then building around it. Trying to squeeze new parts inside a studless construction is tricky at best, aggravating at worst.

"Studded" versus "Studless" are the preferred terms. Both systems have their advantages and their disadvantages. I disagree with the people that say studded building requires less planning. For example, take a look at the building instructions for the supply ship. For a medium model, there's a fuckton of techniques and strange directions going on. What I do agree with, is that studless allows for more compact building. However, one does not negate the other, and I'll happily combine the two if it gets me where I want to be.

What could be the problem is the direction of the gears. The gear rack needs to slide on and off the gear, and one direction is smoother than the other. reversing the gears might lower chances of the gears getting stuck on the gear rack.

Very, very nice. It's great to hear you've also caught the ACC bug, seeing this makes me want to build a new one again :) The huge rear wheels really add attitude to the car. There's one suggestion I'd like to make to improve the steering; if you replace the 8z gear with 14z gears and place the gear rack directly on the steering beam (removing the jumper plates), your wheels will steer at a much larger angle, improving maneuverability. I've done it right here as well:

15 studs maximum. I've been counting bricks and plates, and there's nothing bigger than usual.