dhc6twinotter

Nice! I love your choice of car to model this moc after. I've always wanted to take a '74-'77 Celica and drop in a 1uz-fe V8 from a Lexus in it. Progress looks good! Nice job fitting all those panels together.

Welcome! Nice to have another Technic builder around. Everything I build is studless, and it does take some getting used to. When building something with studless pieces, I tend to build in sections and work left to right or front to back. Very rarely do I work from the ground up, like I would with studed parts. Once the sections are complete, I combine them together to form my moc. It causes you to think ahead, and in that sense, I think studless building can be a bit more complicated; however, I also think it is easier to build more complex mechanisms with studless parts. If you like building cars, I recommend reading Paul's website, www.crowkillers.com. He has some transmissions designs on there as well, which TechnicJuan has already mentioned. I believe Paul also sells built transmission on ebay from time to time, and you may be able to buy one just to study. I haven't sold any of my mocs yet, but it has crossed my mind a few times. Daniel

I know this is an old thread, but thought I'd add my two cents. I'm a member of NCLUG, and our official meetings are in Raleigh. There is also a LUG in Charlotte, but I'm not sure if they go by NCLug or not. Brad (who I think is the manager of the LEGO store there) is in charge of that. I'm not aware of any LUGs in SC, but there very well could be some that I'm unaware of. I don't recall seeing a SC group at any of the shows.

I like it! This set should have had dualies from the beginning, but so have a lot of other LEGO Technic sets. Nice mod!

Wow...that's an awesome model display! Love the B-36s and the VC-10. That B-25 model is huge!

Awesome, thanks! I didn't realize I could look up parts on BL like that. It's always nice to learn something new! Thanks! Now I'm off to see if Lego Direct has these in the quantities I need. Thanks again!

Hey all, I'm trying to find what set the small, smooth, green #1 and #2 panels comes in. Peeron doesn't say, and none of the Technic sets listed on bricklink have this part listed. BL item numbers are 87080 and 87086. This is what I'm looking for, but in green: I'm not familiar with some of the LEGO resource sites, and I'm not sure where else to look, other than Bricklink and Peeron. Thanks! Daniel

Man, that's so cool. I wish I knew how to do all that programming stuff.

Happy New Year everyone!

That looks really good. Great job on the rear, and nice use of the new turn table.

Yeah, helicopter blades are fairly complex to build. A realistic rotor assembly has both collective and cyclic control. Cyclic tilts the swash plate front/back and left/right. The rotor hub doesn't tilt itself, but each blade continually changes pitch as it rotates around the rotor hub. For example, for forward flight, the cyclic (control stick in the cockpit) is pushed and the swash plate tilts. Whichever rotor blade is facing the rear at that moment has the most pitch and is producing the most lift. As the blade rotates around the hub, the pitch changes, until it gets to the front where it has the least amount of pitch and produces the least amount of lift. That is for forward flight, but the same applies for other directions as well. Collective control moves the entire swash plate up/down and increases the pitch of all the blades at the same time. Collective is controlled by the collective lever that is next to the seat. The collective lever also has the throttle control. The tail rotor works similar to a collective and moves all the tail rotor blades simultaneously. The tail rotor is controlled by the pedals. Tandem rotor helicopters (like the Chinook and Sea Knight) work similarly, but there are some differences. The swash plates don't have any forward/backward movement and are therefore a bit simpler, but the collective is more complex since it can vary the collective between the front and rear rotor assemblies. Anyways, hope that helps. I've had a Chinook and Super Stallion on my list of mocs I've wanted to build for a while now, and this thread kinda wants me to get cracking on one of them.

Yup, that is the b model from the Power Crane. This was my first Technic set, which I got on my 7th or 8th birthday. A great set!

That helicopter is amazing. Interesting mix of stud and studless pieces. I love the fact that the tail rotor also has variable pitch blades. Very authentic. Looks like it has working tail rotor pedals too. I wonder if there is collective control, in addition to the cyclic control? It doesn't look like it, but I may be wrong. Very nice moc.

Looks great Grohl. The larger wheels are much better.

I don't know about Canada, but here in the States, we see sales every now and then. 8258 was half off last year, and 8041 is on sale for $35USD right now.

Looks great! 3 days of build time is quick!

My new moc? Unfortunately, it won't have return to center valves. I will be building it into a gearbox as well, but to be honest, I haven't tested it yet. I don't see why it wouldn't work though, since it has more gear reduction than the version I used on my tractor. Hopefully I'll get the valves and gearbox finished this weekend or next, but this project is kicking my butt, so who knows, I may not even finish it.

This is how I did the auto valves on my Case Steiger tractor: Sorry those pictures aren't very clear. I used clutch gears to keep the motors from stalling. The black and tan gears are used for some extra gear reduction between the clutch gears and valves. This works well, but I did notice that some of the valves I bought on BL were too stiff and didn't work as well (I think they sat in the store for a while). The stiffer valves would have worked with more gear reduction though, but I just used some of my less stiff valves. There is no auto-centering feature. I have yet to figure out how to build an auto valve that is both non-stalling and auto-centering. The new servo motors would solve all this. My current moc that I'm working on has auto valves based on this also, but I used a white clutch gear and worm gear instead for each of the 4 valves. The remaining valve I have to install will probably use the same setup as my tractor.

The FSB002 looks really nice! Good looking cab. The FSB001 looks nice, but from what I've heard, it doesn't work well. I believe Paul (crowkillers) said he built this model too. In my opinion, it is way too over-complicated for what is trying to be done.

I noticed 8041 on sale a few days ago, but I'm a bit hesitant to buy it, even at $35. It really isn't worth $35 to me, but the panels are nice, so I may change my mind.

Nice loader!

Nope, no LEGO for me this Christmas. I tend to buy my own LEGO at sales, so I just asked for camping gear and tools.

I agree. Beeman, check to see if any of your bevel gears are missing in any of the differentials. Also check to make sure you have all the gears in the portal hubs, and make sure all your u-joints/cv joints are properly installed.

I'm not sure where you are from, but it's not available in the USA. I'm not sure about other parts of the world. You may have to look on ebay, amazon, bricklink, etc for the set.

Welcome! My vote goes like this, with 8110 being the best: 1. 8110 2. 8258 3. 8043 You may want to buy 8258 first, since it will become harder and harder to find. 8110 and 8043 will be available from LEGO for a while yet. All three of those sets are already motorized, but 8043 is the only one that is remote controlled.