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Found 6 results

  1. Just made a MOC based on a real vehicle - the Kalmar forklift. Well, how about another one? This will be a model of the Bergmann C815s (formerly Bergmann 3012) in the swivel tip dumper configuration. It will be my first MOC to use Control+, with 4 motors to control drive, articulated steering, dump bed rotation and dumping. It will feature AWD with planetary hubs from the 42099 set, a sprung front axle (live axle), and will tentatively feature pneumatic dumping to reduce the amount of driveshafts for functions. Note that the name of this vehicle was Bergmann 3012 prior to 2020. My model will be the current version of this vehicle. There's very limited space for electronics and mechanisms here - I already had to scratch the idea of including a 4-cylinder fake engine. I anticipate this model being packed to the brim with mechanisms - for instance, the steering motor (which will be a C+ L motor) will sit back to back with the drive motor, transferring drive through a driveshaft directly below them as to not interfere with the suspension's travel. The C+ hub will sit below the steering motor, directly in front of the front axle. I'm hoping this won't cause the suspension to sag or anything - there's literally nowhere else in the model I could feasibly put it. So far, I have the front axle and parts of the chassis in front of the articulation joint completed. It seems to be well reinforced at this point - thankfully the C+ motors have a lot of attachment points so I can see them supporting the chassis here pretty well. The articulated steering will be done by 2 mini LAs - this was quite a challenge for me to figure out, as they sit directly in front of the gears for the drivetrain. I had to make sure the mechanism is sturdy, can be geared easily, and not be too high as the body slopes downward right here. They feel a little wobbly, but a test with some beams representing the rear section of the chassis shows that there's little play in the mechanism. The LAs will be installed like a 'Y' (I find this to be the best angle for them), which isn't the most realistic as the real-life counterpart seems to have them pointing rather parallel to the chassis and are installed lower, but given the limited space in the chassis I have to make some compromises I guess. If you have any suggestions for me, please let me know. Photos:
  2. I have created a brief example of how to manipulate "floating objects" in LDD on flickr here: Enjoy!
  3. Modern LEGO wheel hubs are known to suffer from a lot of slack. Other drawbacks are that you can only use them with CVT joints - not with the stronger and more angleable U-joints - and the section inbetween the pin holes of the hub is wider than 1 stud. While playing with one of them I noticed that part of the slack is because the DBG pins don't sit very tight in the wheel's pin holes. It helps a little if you have an axle running through the wheel which extends into the DBG-part of the hub. Now I know @nicjasno sells modified wheel hubs based on small turn tables, which have much less slack than the original wheel hubs. But than you still can only use them with the weak CVT joints. And you have a modified part. So I looked into using a turntable as wheel hub for the 15038 wheel (with 6 pinholes) without modifying it and it gives quite a good result. Better than the LEGO wheel hub: The turn table is attached to the wheel with 2 3L pins. The assembly inside the wheel makes sure the turn table's pinholes are attached to a pin and not to an axle (which would give slack) and sits tight against the inside of the wheel to give stability. Finally an extra belt wheel is attached to the wheel to give even more stability to the 2 3L pins that connect the assembly to the wheel.
  4. Razgriz94

    Japanese Temple

    Hi! This is my first try to build a building. And sorry for my bad english. However, this is my version of a ancient japanese temple. What do you think? How can improve it? (It is builded on a 48x48 plate for 3k pieces)
  5. Hello, I have discovered that when using Sbrick you can bridge ports and have double amperage and double power cutoff. I think this might be useful for MOC's but please give me your opinion. IMG_0385 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr The black 9v wire represents where the RC motor will connect. Thanks
  6. I have accumulated alot of kits over the years but I am recently trying to build my own creations and one of the first things I want to build is like a city building to go with my modulars. I was wondering if there was a way to instead of going to pick a brick or buying specific parts, to just take a lazier route and just buy alot of basic bricks that will help start the building process. I know lego sold those basic kits of standard pieces but those are all sold out. I basically mean like 2x4 bricks, 1x8 bricks, and all other essential bricks that people buy in bulk. I want to avoid just going to pick a brick because then it is way too specific and I would rather just have a big bin of pieces to start building. Is there also a way to somehow get similar colors? All of my custom creations so far are just random colors and it doesn't really look too good all together having mixtures of red and white and blue, etc. I have heard if you call a lego store they will be able to sell you a box of basic pieces that they put together? Once I have gotten all of these pieces, what is the best way to start building something like a modular building or just anything in general? I have built legos for years, but I was always more of the type of person that followed the instructions and followed the themes (cue the message of the lego movie here lol) Thanks so much!! Happy building