krispy

Eurobricks Citizen
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Posts posted by krispy


  1. On 8/8/2017 at 10:33 PM, Walrus Bear said:

    This moc looks really good and I really would like to build it. But it seems that all of the files on the first page don't work. Is there any way that can be fixed?

    At the threat of community scorn for necroing this thread: Yeah.. I've noticed the files no longer work. Thanks Dropbox for changing all the public links to private! It is now fixed.


  2. Thank you for suggesting this mod in the first place! I hope you and the kid are happy with the result.

    The key insight for this mod came from - ironically - a Jedi Interceptor which I saw on MOCpages. Check out that rear landing gear. Droid arm + a pair of handles = 2 stud slide-out. I always knew I'd find a way to use that little snippet of info someday :classic:

    (And yeah... the Jedi Interceptor whose purchase I am planning will never, ever be built as Lego intended. But that's another MOC, for another thread.)

    On to the next B-Wing Mod!

    One thing that has been bugging me I'd like to change about this model (no offence intended to Renegade Clone or Krispy) is the lack of integrated landing gear.

    To my surprise, I can't find any refs or pictures for actual landing gear. In ROTJ you see the back or top of the cockpit (as a matte painting), or the craft in flight: never the entire ship landed with the gear visible. The closest I've gotten is from some photos of the Hasbro "Dagger Squadron" toy. Oddly enough, I'm not about to treat that as a primary source.

    Before I start footering around with my own design (perhaps inspired by the Hasbro lump, perhaps not) can I please ask:

    - have any of my fellow B-Wing squadron members added landing gear which I could take a peep at?

    - Or do you all have accounts of failed attempts, from which I can take dire and solemn warnings?

    - Does anyone have any bright ideas or suggestions?

    - has anyone turned up a better reference for the actual landing gear than the Hasbro model?

    I haven't seen the Hasbro model, but does the original even have landing gear? I've been googling a bit, but there's no reference or hint of the B-Wing having any landing gear other than resting on it's S-foils. There's no mention of it in the Essential Guide to Vehicles and Vessels (= my bible) either. :wacko:


  3. Thank you Brickdoctor: that sounds like my cue.

    Thank you, Krispy, Scott and Jerac for a wonderful model.

    I altered Krispy's 1.4 A-Wing design to include a smooth SNOT bottom and a landing leg at the front:

    12715630515_752de434b2_n.jpg

    12715628645_d3c1c5fce0_n.jpg

    12715778763_52182e6949_n.jpg

    There are a lot more photos in my set on flickr. It should be enough to let someone recreate my modifications. If you need more photos taken from any angle, please let me know.

    I've been a little slow on this forum recently, but I just have to say: great mod! Looks like I'm gonna need to adjust my shelved one.


  4. I've been meaning to post some more feedback on this model for a while and now that the topic has been bumped it seems like a good time. First of all I must say that Krispy did an amazing job on the instructions considering he didn't have the photos of Renegade Clone's internals. However there are a few stability issues with Krispy's version that the original doesn't have. The biggest problem is with the two smaller wings. These would fall off practically every time I picked it up or put it down. The original doesn't have this problem because the bits where the wings are connected to the main body are built firmly into the structure. It is not possible to just change it to match the Renegade Clone version exactly because the internals are different but I have made something that gives the same result.

    WegcBW0.jpg

    t6aBXrA.jpg

    IjSsAeQ.jpg

    With these changes the wings are absolutely rock solid and no longer fall off at all.

    The second issue is something I already mentioned to do with the stability of the engines and the covers on the engine block. I modified my engine covers to exactly match Renegade Clone's so that the engines are connected directly to the covers. This makes them very sturdy and they no longer fall off. Unfortunately this requires a big change to the engine block itself as the covers are mounted differently, but this also makes the covers more sturdy and easier to connect. I made my engine block internally more like Renegade Clone's but I did it slightly differently so that I had 4 studs at the front to connect the cooling intakes. This makes them a bit stronger and less likely to fall off.

    r5zb1et.jpg

    QR8gbxq.jpg

    Krispy, I hope you consider these changes if you update your instructions and thank you once again for all your hard work.

    Great! This is precisely the feedback I was hoping for. I haven't been the most active builder recently (something to do with finishing up my master's thesis while having a regular job), but now that I have some more time, I'll update the model using your feedback. Thanks for sharing!


  5. Agreed, I never thought about using that small corner piece when framing the wings. And the fact that your pylons are rounded is especially nice. Well done!

    I might need to rebuild my defender using this :wink:


  6. I found your incredible interpretation of assault gunboat on cuusoo a few weeks ago, and since it's my favorite ship from Tie Fighter, and one of my favorites from all of Star Wars, I decided to build my own. After a few days of work, and a couple weeks trying to find the correct windscreen piece, I've finally finished mine, with blue flight group colors.

    Thanks so much for your wonderful design, It's gonna have a proud place on my shelf for quite a while!

    The ship looks great in real bricks!

    I agree! It looks totally awesome Havoc. Makes me happy to see other ppl are able to build it too :classic:


  7. I'm starting to understand that accuracy of shape doesn't always lead to a more pleasing end result in a Lego model, at least with the minifigure scale models. After all, the minifigures themselves don't have realistic proportions so why should the ships they inhabit? This was something I didn't get at first and looking back through old discussions on this forum I see that other people have made the same mistake.

    Yes, it's a key thing in building, not sacrificing too much of the aesthetics for accuracy. You do have to remember the accuracy, because an accurate model will often look aesthetically pleasing because it looks right. But an ugly (gappy, bad pattern of bricks, etc.) yet mostly accurate (in angles, in dimensions and proportions, in shape, etc.) model is still ugly.

    Hear hear! That's the difficulty of designing a model. But it really payoffs when you're building... :laugh:

    I've added some studio shots to give you an impression of what it looks like when it's done. I've also updated the model file as I've found I had overlooked some things.


  8. Too add a little to the discussion: I had some ideas regarding the little tail fins. Here's a comparison of them with the original as well.

    9351926767_c8fcce721f_c.jpg

    Comparision of wing modification ideas by Krispy's brick stuff, on Flickr

    Mod. A is fully LDD proof and has the wings mounted on headlights (pretty straight forward).

    Mod. B Is a far-out-there mod; replacing the rear rings and actually using the new ring to mount the fins on.

    Mod. C is like Mod. A, but assumes you press the 1x8 plate of the wings into the underlying 2x2 plate (illustrated here). This is an illegal connection in LDD, but in practice it works.

    All in all, I'm not sure I'm too fond of the plates. They are thinner, but do lack in shape (the radius of the rear upper corner is actually too big) and overal smoothness. I am a little partial to Mod. C but I'll probably build the original.

    What do you guys think?


  9. Hi

    are the white domes the same as in the UCS and are they exclusive to that set? I have never seen such domes in other sets.

    Any ideas what that beauty costs, if fully purchased via BL?

    Dino

    Not sure, but I can do a guesstimate. I usually split up my components in rares and commons.

    For the Y-Wing the major crux is this:

    As far as the Bricklink stuff goes, it's odd that the 8L's are so much more expensive and rarer than the 6L's, when they both exclusively come from the UCS Y-wing. There's even more 8L's than 6L's in that set to begin with.

    I've found a shop in Germany that literally has hundreds of them, but you can only buy them in sets of 10. As they cost about $1.5 each, that's $15 for just those copper hoses (I'll probably end up buying them, but right now the A-Wing has taken up this months lego budget)!

    So that basicly takes care of the rare parts; for the Y-Wing I'd say about $20.

    To get a rough estimate the cost (in euro's mind you) of the common parts I usually just multiply the number of parts by 12 euro cents. That's 10 cents for the part and 2 cents overhead (shipping, paypal costs, small order markup etc.). In my experience the initial estimate may seem high, but (unfortunately) it has always been close to the mark for me. The shipping costs are always higher than you expect as you'll have many orders for a model this size. This way you're not fooling yourself.

    In dollars I'd multiply the number of parts by $0.15.

    The Y-Wing has around 1250 parts (I believe the exact number is 1257 including the rare parts), so that would mean the common parts will cost you about $190 (or 150 euros).

    That means the total cost is about $210 or 165 euros if you Bricklink the entire model.

    Bear in mind that this is a pessimistic estimate and that the actual cost may be lower as a big portion of the parts are very common (like the gray headlights); provided you find them at a good price of course. But expect to pay this much: my B-Wing model has about 1000 parts and it ran me about $160 as I didn't have many parts to start with and had to Bricklink a lot of them.


  10. This is the first time I've bought something on Bricklink where I don't actually care if it is faded or discoloured, in fact it would be a bonus.

    :laugh:

    I know what you mean. I've gotta go through the list myself, but I have a ton of old gray space Lego, so I'm very excited to be using it on the Y-Wing.