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Posts posted by z3_2drive
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I really need to clock what my custom RC MOCs reach. I'm sure it's 19 kmh or more :P But I haven't built in a while. A suggestion-place your camera on the ground so we can see from a distance just how fast it is going-otherwise a shaky video while running is pretty hard to judge speed with.
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It's direct drive from the faster output. Two RC motors. In the video the car accelerates a bit slow and reaches 15 km
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It seems to be a regular large shock spring, just removed from the shock itself. I have many of these and will attempt to re-create this setup!
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Was browsing Brickshelf today and came across this masterpiece...honestly on my all-time favorites list. The builder, going by 'KidA' made this amazing GT86 MOC, with very intricate suspension and some of the best bodywork I have ever seen. His other builds include RC builds similar to mine, but with the official Lego Radio Control system. This car in particular is so great it has inspired me to start a new project I've had on hold for a while (another vehicle) testing some ideas I've had. Here are some photos and a link to his Brickshelf: (sorry if photos are too large)
Link to the MOC folder: GT86
I have never seen him mentioned here and I would love to discuss the model in-depth if anyone knows him.
EDIT: Found a video!
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Looks promising!
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Very tragic, I wish only the best for you and your family. -
Yeah at this scale practicality is the only issue, that's why I stick to RWD and no CV joints. (except the 8880 style, which I am currently figuring a way to implement)
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If it's 'caster' you are talking about, a much easier solution would be to have a tilted subframe. This allows for simpler/stronger suspension while still including the angle.
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Actually...I think the servo steering with the stop-go remote would be harder to control than with LA's, and getting LA-steering to center is easy because it doesn't move so fast. I can only imagine the servo struggling to steer when pinned up against something or on a very high grip surface. If they were so concerned about speed and playability then the raising/moving of all the gear would be faster. It seems like a nice model though. I absolutely love the Pickup-I can already see a dozen ways to MOD it!
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A place to put a differential in?
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Vkyo (Victor) makes some pretty nice 4-link axles that look realistic and are very strong. 4-link suspension and a steering motor that is not on the axle is key for good looking 4x4's.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/48680057@N08/9663414251/in/photostream/
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If you could please give some more photos of the front suspension, preferably without wheels on, I would like to help you out! For now here's a simple lightweight chassis I made long ago: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=511390
EDIT: On Brickshelf there should be tons of inspiration for a stronger rear axle, but I would avoid using axle connectors instead of liftarms to brace things with, because with a little trial and error you will always find a nice bracing point with liftarms rather than dealing with 1/2 stud offsets and axles that slide apart.
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The dog one pieces do come in handy!
@Sariel when hitting the throttle (yes I have completed it and tested) fully on carpet the tank rises up but never tips. I will make some changes to help.
@Andy after some simple re-wiring and changing the mode on the motor controller, the remote now acts as a perfect tank controller. It spins when steering at a stop, and slows a side when steering at speed, and it's all proportional.
@TLH you can take the shocks apart without damage and then customize them any way you want :)
@zux I believe it is a type of Bionicle chest piece.
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This is my WIP Topic since I've figured out all my questions about the build. This is my first tank build and I think it's going pretty well!
It is based off the Ripsaw, but has some differences:
^I had to use some interesting techniques to connect both the studded and studless construction.
^My table's pretty messy during builds
I need to brace the structure in the rear and make a simple lightweight connection from front to back to place the electronics box and battery on.
Hope you like it!
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This is great, and soon pneumatic brakes? I really need to get into my CAD programs this summer
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Perfect! Simple and modular! Do you plan a video?
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Look forward to it!
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The 8880 hubs are very soft and bend easily under high load. This is why I never used them on my RC MOC. They are excellent, though.
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This looks awesome so far! But one thing is...the landing gear. As you said it's weak and I can only imagine the horror when it lands/takes off and the landing gear snaps, and the plane hits the ground... Some sort of reinforced triangle with a shock absorber attached would be bulky but actually survive. I know the routine of making something revolutionary but practical. At least on my cars a failure during testing won't risk complete destruction I wish you luck with this great build!
EDIT: Mbmc, I see where you're going but us builders who use some non lego parts usually set our own goals.
For example, I enjoy building vehicles where the construction is 100% Lego, motors and all, but unleash the performance potential and fun factor by increasing voltage and range with a third party receiver/transmitter and battery. I consider what I build to be true Lego MOCs, but not purist. I don't modify any of the pieces themselves either. I tell myself that if I want higher performance with hobby-grade motors, then I will just build my own metal frame/ buy a custom kit and use the electronics I already have, because if I am interested in top performance, I should leave Lego behind. But these hybrid builds are right smack in the middle of that gray area...
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I used notched nail sections and hot glue to replace the center piece...this works good but eventually it comes apart if it's not perfect. for the outer parts heat shrink tape is good but the center piece is still vulnerable. The large u joint with pulley wheels is indeed the strongest but only good for huge models.
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Well each wheel only takes the power of one XL motor geared 1:3. I never broke a u-joint this way even with 10 volts.Over Power.....
No U-joint broken?
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Haha thanks, I never really made a topic about it, I guess I should soon as I'm already starting my tank projectthat's amazing dude! great job :)
@z3 impressive performances o.o
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Exactly what I had in mind Although I may not need it for a while, I ordered some chrome wheels and may do one more video before I take it apart and start the Ripsaw project.
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Yeah I wanted 4 but ordered 2 after I saw the price, and it turned out nicely since I only used two for the car and had two spares when one broke.
Here's some quick pics of the beast:
Here's the broken hub:
Torpedo Trike, going at 20.78 km/h
in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
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Nice! I remember building this crazy thing:
Trikes are awesome if you get them to be stable!