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Everything posted by z3_2drive

  1. z3_2drive

    42099 - 4x4 X-treme Off-Roader

    That is great news. Do you think these new hubs/joints could be used in a trailing arm style suspension? Also I’m curious if the hub is just another bushing design or if there is a bearing involved.
  2. z3_2drive

    42099 - 4x4 X-treme Off-Roader

    If I were on the team I’d suggest high strength modular attachments to the motors, like a planetary reduction option (or two) and one with no reduction. That way you can use one motor in multiple models that serve very different purposes. This feels like a missed opportunity for sure.
  3. z3_2drive

    42099 - 4x4 X-treme Off-Roader

    Nice parts! Progress like this almost makes me want to come back to Lego and snag this set just to test the possibilities. Do those new CV joints snap together so the pins are captured tightly or.... I wonder if Lego considered a dogbone design, they seem to handle a lot of torque but axles sliding out of the differential and friction wear might be too problematic.
  4. Ok, I'm not going in-depth, just a brief description for those who are interested. The two custom rechargeable battery packs I use consist of three batteries connected (soldered) in series, wrapped in electrical tape. The batteries used look like this: and my battery packs look like this: To charge them you also need a 'power supply'-a device that regulates current and voltage to give power or in this case, charge the batteries. If you have a background in electronics, and if you are good at soldering and have access to all the components/wires/power supply box, then you can try to make your own. All details about the batteries themselves such as voltage, maximum current, charging voltage&current can all be found at this ebay link, where you can buy them for about 8-9 dollars each http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tenergy-Tenergy-LiFePO4-18650-3-2V-1100mAh-Power-Cell-Max-25A-w-Tabs-SALE-/390575207953?pt=US_Rechargeable_Batteries&hash=item5af018b611
  5. I also think when making criticism you should acknowledge the amount of effort someone put into making your MOC. I personally found the comparison of that orange thing to a Lamborghini Aventador to be kinda insulting (his crane took much more planning/work and honestly wasn't a good analogy). But constructive criticisms with explanations are good.
  6. I don't know man, the crane in that topic definitely didn't resemble what it claimed to be, and I don't think there's anything wrong about calling it out. If I make a supercar with shapes and design styles of multiple cars, but use red panels and then call it a Ferrari 458, I'd expect people to tell me that I'm wrong. There's nothing wrong with creating that same MOC and giving it a non-brand or original name. I think people should be more open to criticism around here. Obviously, going around calling other MOCs shit and doomed to fail is not what I'm talking about. But if someone offers a detailed reply about how/why your project is flawed, and even offers a plan or solutions, if you find that offensive then maybe you should humble yourself.
  7. @Bublehead I haven't tried that before, but from what I understand, having them disconnected (I snipped the inlets and made the holes slightly bigger so the damping wouldn't be too strong) allows air to flow in and out freely, so it adds a damping force during both compression and expansion. If they're plugged, it would be like having air-ride suspension, no spring needed, and might need to be reset if air escapes slowly over time. I've seen the latter used on very heavy Lego truck models with all cylinders connected to a single air tank/pump.
  8. For heavy models, using a pneumatic cylinder in conjunction with a spring can provide the perfect damped suspension motion, avoiding excess sag and extra bounciness on bumps. You can combine them but it's kind of a non purist MOD unless you're very careful. It worked well for my previous projects: Link Lego could learn from the RC world though. A great part I could see being developed is a line of proper plastic shocks - 3 choices of plastic shock bodies and metal shafts with the same or 2 sizes of diameter so the seals can be the same, with threaded shock caps/O-ring seal so the damping force is provided by air or a light oil. Doesn't have to be that beefy or take a lot of abuse, but it would be a great thing to have as models get bigger and heavier.
  9. z3_2drive

    42083 - Bugatti Chiron

    This forum also has rules to follow, and the previous posts already specified where to find these photos.
  10. z3_2drive

    New personal Lego dark age looming?

    I know the feeling. It was a mix of big changes in life happening so Lego was put on hold, and my personal goals in making models were already met, or became unattainable (creating progressively faster and stronger large RC cars). I started shifting my interest to hobby RC and other things, so I figured I might as well drop Lego entirely since I would never be satisfied. Since then I have had great success building my own RC car and it's been a ton of fun. I miss Lego but I don't have many regrets, other than my new hobby being more expensive I guess you just have to understand what your goals are - what do you want to achieve in your MOC projects, and do you see yourself capable of reaching that goal while having fun in the process? If you don't need the money or extra space, I'd avoid selling the collection. I sold mine to afford what I have now and it kinda sucks when I see a really good MOC or set coming up that I would like to tinker with, but without my collection I don't think getting a new set would be worth it long term.
  11. z3_2drive

    42083 - Bugatti Chiron

    Back end definitely looks nice, and I was right about the sticker on the door, which I'm not a fan of. Spoiler definitely looks adjustable and retractable. Can't be 100% sure but that brake disc piece just looks like an add on for the same hubs from the Porsche I'm liking it better than the Porsche so far, curious about the rest of the functions now.
  12. I actually tried making my own U-joints with these same brass boat parts a couple years ago, however I tried holding the plastic in with friction/set screws and it just wouldn't work. I didn't even think of carving out the cross section, that's obviously smarter Great job! This is a must have for all RC MOCs.
  13. z3_2drive

    42083 - Bugatti Chiron

    Good catch on the interior 'C' shape, I wasn't sure what that was at first. Real Chiron reference:
  14. z3_2drive

    42083 - Bugatti Chiron

    Looks a bit odd with the silver/grey line stopping at the doors, unless there's a sticker at the bottom of it that is hard to see, and the abrupt corners on the front of the vehicle (though it's hard to replicate the real chiron's curves without a bunch of flex axles). I like the lack of gaps and want to see the rear view, and how many functions they packed in
  15. z3_2drive

    [MOC] 2018 Supercar

    Looks better that way, for sure
  16. z3_2drive

    [MOC] 2018 Supercar

    Love it, but I agree the diffuser, or at least the panels on the side, look out of place. Have you tried flipping them upside down? I don't have those in my hand so I can't picture it. I actually really like how the back looks with it completely removed. Try replacing the 24t gear with a black one, and take a picture directly from the rear, I'm sure there's a way to hide it and still look really clean.
  17. z3_2drive

    Done with this forum

    I went back and read the topics. It's unfortunate how things turned out, nobody should have to feel like they don't belong so soon after joining. Teasers, especially those that don't include something obviously new or mysterious enough to warrant curiosity in the photos, get less attention than humble WIPs or final presentations. I had no issue with your original topic, looked fine. But the way you made a point of replying to every comment that you didn't like with your own snarky remarks is not a good way to get started, if you feel like you've been attacked or made fun of unnecessarily, just report the comment/talk to a mod. People that pointed out flaws in your MOC were just reacting to your quite boastful attitude for a new member, even if your experience far outweighs your forum time. Also, replying to every constructive criticism by explaining why what you did was right and made more sense comes off as arrogant, even if you didn't mean it that way, I'm pretty sure everyone has been guilty of that at some point. For the record, I really enjoyed your MOC when you unveiled the entire setup, and want to see more from you in the future. I hope you change your mind and continue sharing your creations and opinions, but if you're truly done, you obviously didn't need to post something akin to self righteous people exclaiming their exit from a social media platform, because without a reputation, a dramatic exit is just immature and antagonizing. It seems like you want to stick around, and I definitely welcome you to, but an internet forum isn't worth getting yourself worked up over.
  18. z3_2drive

    Blakbird Collection Liquidation

    When I was younger and had just built my first Technic set, the 8048 buggy, I remember finding your Technicopedia site and scrolling in awe at the sheer amount of sets you had, reading through all the notes and watching all the renderings for the older models. It was a big influence for my hobby and I appreciate all the effort you have put into your collection. Even though your collection dwarfed mine when I decided to sell it off, I understand the feeling. I don't have much space or time for so many parts, and my thirst for performance sent me to the RC hobby. As far as selling, I also agree, local deals are near impossible here, overseas is a hassle unless the buyer is willing to accept the huge extra shipping costs, and selling even half a collection can take months. However your reputation and careful storage of sets might speed it up. While I will always have a sweet spot for Lego, I really enjoy building RC cars from the ground up, putting the best electronics and upgrades into them, painting and modifying bodywork, and jamming that throttle till I break something It's refreshing to put your mind towards something new, and I hope you get back most of your investment. This summer I plan on building a competition 1/8 e-buggy kit and racing it. I've never raced against other people so I'm hoping it'll be a fun learning experience!
  19. z3_2drive

    RC4WD Wheel Adapters

    12mm hex wheels offer a great variety for both crawlers and 1/10th scale street wheels. I'd like to see a supercar fitted with some of these, or the 3D printed variety.
  20. z3_2drive

    RC4WD Wheel Adapters

    I've been spending some time with the RC hobby the last couple months, building my own 1/8th scale car. The price for those adapters is wayyy out of proportion. It looks like a nice piece, but adapters are usually 12-25$ for a full set, and that's for machined metal. The 3D printed ones seem more cost effective, and Lego doesn't necessarily need metal in that area for the torque they deal with, as long as the threading is metal.
  21. No more MOCs from me folks, but i will be sticking around to enjoy everyone's new creations!

  22. z3_2drive

    Technic 2018 Set Discussion

    Rally car looks interesting apart from the boxy wheel arches and baby blue, the B-model is nice, but as others have said, same recycled internals with no new interesting mechanisms.
  23. z3_2drive

    [MOC] Class 1 unlimited buggy

    Excellent. This is probably the highest attainable level of fun with pure Lego parts. Agreed, softer springs would offer better traction on that rough terrain, minus that both models are tastefully built, and nice homages to the original.
  24. I briefly got back into building this year, but recently have taken interest in the world of RC and have started a custom project. Because of this as well as a busy college schedule, I've been thinking of parting with my collection, and I'm not sure what is the best way to approach this. Do I part out items and sell separately? I have already taken my most expensive items and made listings on BrickLink at a competitive price, but the vast majority of my collection is still on the shelf in sorted, wall-mounted containers. Do I sell in bulk? It seems to be the fastest way to sell large amounts of pieces, but often go for cheap and with random pieces, whereas I have neatly sorted according to color and/or part type. Change my mind and hang onto it? It's been a big part of my younger years, but my interests have changed and I find myself after performance and reliability in my projects, something that can only be done with metal. Are there people out there who snag entire inventories? I think BrickLink would be the most lucrative option as I need the money for this new project, but would also take a long time to sell everything, or at least my most valuable items. The rest can be sold in bulk, especially non-Technic pieces. Is there anyone here that has gone through the same process? I'd be interested to hear your stories.
  25. The two sets I rebuilt have been sold. Updated List: T̶e̶c̶h̶n̶i̶c̶ ̶C̶o̶n̶n̶e̶c̶t̶o̶r̶s̶ ̶-̶ ̶2̶ ̶l̶b̶ - SOLD Black Liftarms - 1 lb 12 oz - $16 Red Liftarms - 10 oz - $5 Orange Liftarms - 6 oz - SOLD Yellow Liftarms - 11 oz - $5 DBG/DG Liftarms - 11 oz - SOLD LBG Liftarms - 13 oz - $10 White/VLBG Liftarms - 8 oz - $4 Pneumatic Parts (I modified 2/3 cylinders into heavy duty shock absorbers) - 3 oz - $6 Treads and Sprockets (includes 260 large DBG treads) - 1 lb - SOLD Technic Engine Parts (cylinders/cams/pulleys/blocks etc) - 8 oz - $6 Technic Bricks/studded box frames 3lb 4 oz - SOLD Assorted Plates and Bricks - 2lb 10 oz - $15 Thin liftarms with axle holes - 7 oz - SOLD Bionicle Limbs, Chest Pieces, useful in Technic - 1 lb 9 oz - $14 Bionicle Joints/Connectors/etc - 1 lb 10 oz - $16 Assorted Plates and Studs - 1 lb - $7 Technic Pins (including roughly 500 black pins) - 1 lb - $5 Technic Axles (including custom made metal axles), Bushings, Axle Pins - 1 lb 13 oz - SOLD Technic Gears/turntables and Transmission parts - 1 lb 2 oz - SOLD Assorted Minifig parts (including chrome) and small pieces - 9 oz - $5 Old Technic Panels - 7 oz - $4 5x11 and 3x11 Technic Panels (27 total) - 7 oz - $15 Suspension/Steering/Drivetrain parts - 1 lb - SOLD Parts from set 8840 - 8 oz - $3 Assorted Wheels and Tires - 3lb 6 oz - $20 LBG 5x7, 5x11, and H Frames - 7 oz - SOLD Flex Axles - 4 oz - SOLD Modern Technic Panels - 10 oz - SOLD Thin Liftarm L Frames - 5 oz - SOLD Tubing (pneumatic and decorative) - 3 oz - $3 Random Parts/pullbacks/netting/mindstorms spheres - 1 lb 3 oz - $11 3D Printed Lego parts - 3 oz - SOLD Shipping: This is within the USA and may vary slightly based on specific location (items that are 12-14 oz jump to priority shipping costs when packaging is included) 0-5 oz: $2.70 (first class) 4-7 oz: $3.00 (first class) 8-11 oz: $4.00 (first class) 12-27 oz: $8.00 (priority) 28-43 oz: $10.00 (priority) 44-59 oz: $15.00 (priority) orders 3-4lb+ may be shipped via fedex if it's cheaper. *The more lots/order the more cost effective the shipping is* Prices are rigid but big orders may have room for negotiation. Photos in this Brickshelf Gallery (now public) Link