Eurobricks Citizen
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Giottist

Spam Prevention

  • What is favorite LEGO theme? (we need this info to prevent spam)

Profile Information

  • Interests
    Rail Punk, Astronomy


  • Country

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi Legopold, we have to thank you for sharing your idea It's a nice feeling to reproduce your results. I've bought my steel rods on Ebay but it seems it is the same source: My lot does not fit anyway and I do not know any usable method to grind them down to a matching diameter without removing the zinc plating. If I would do so the remaining cheap steel will rust away ... It seems there are large manufacturing tolerances, to big not to be a matter of risk. If we like to avoid any risk and do not hesitate to have some work, the steel 1.2210 aka 115CrV3 is the better choice since the rods made of this material have the tolerance h9, an international norm. I used the calm holidays to test all my axles and all yet existing rods made of 1.2210 fitted perfect with my ball bearings, most of the original LEGO rods did so (about 10% not!) and none of the plated chinese rods. It seems it is a matter of luck, which lot of the cheap plated chinese rod will fit or not.
  2. Merry Christmas to everybody! This morning I have the time to test Legopolds version of train axles with ball bearings. I'm using the type MR52ZZ from a chinese dealer on Ebay. I combine them with metal rods from steel type 1.2210 called "silver steel" which comes with low tolerances and fit without force to the ball bearings. Please do not use force or hammering or something else, ball bearings even from China are precision products and can fail by deforming them by unneccessary force. I have to fix the ball bearings with a tiny speck of two component glue to the axle holders and remove the central clips. The comparison with original steel axles on a shallow rail ramp is overwhelming: even lubricated the original axles performed 60% less the ball bearing axles. For the comparison test I used the rather massive hopper car from set 60051. Here the exact description: Testramp consisting of 20 straight rails (new) on the flat floor. The fist three rails have a gradient of 1 plate, so the start is at 1 brick height above the horizontal floor plane. 1) Axles with new style plastic wheels: The test car does not move after relase. 2) Original unlubricated metal axles: 34.5 cm (13.5 inches) 3) Metal axles lubricated with lithium grease: 54 cm (21.3 inches) 4) Ball bearing axles à la Legopold: 140,5 cm (55.3 inches) I am aware that the drastic differences are caused by the very low gradient of the start slope which overemphasize the tiny friction differences at very low drag levels. The next test will be a comparison of a real train comparable to the original LEGO test. Addenum I: Wheels 57878 and axle holders 2878 are still available at the LEGO bricks & pieces service, somewhat expensive but still ok. Addenum II: Do not buy ready made "silver steel" rods from chinese sources. They are zinc plated with too large diameter and do not fit to the ball bearings. Look instead for the steel type 1.2210 oder 115CrV3: Theese rods have a tolerance of h9 and fit perfectly to the ball bearings without any further machining. This material is too strong to be cutted with a saw but can be put to length with a long bolt cutter. Then you can grind the raw axle pieces to the exact length with a carborundum abrasive wheel.
  3. Please type "chromed" into the search function at the top of Bricklinks website and have a look ... There are still plenty of offers but how long ? It seems the first shops went voluntary to avoid useless struggles with TLG. In my opinion LEGOs restrictions for modified or custom printed parts are too tight. Theese parts are supplements to LEGO products. No business or copyright is harmed by them. The restrictions for clone parts or MOCs in conflict with a licence theme are clear in my eyes.
  4. Giottist

    New train wheels tested by LEGO

    Dear Coinoperator, Please do not distribute unchecked claims. The danger of throwing around fake news is very high: Lithium and cobalt for electric cars and other products do not use up rain forests. Lithium is gained from salt lakes using salt water unsusuable for drinking and irrigatring purposes. The actual protests at Bolivia are triggered by social unrests because a tiny minority takes all the money and gives nothing to the workers and general public. Here in Germany BMW and Volkswagen use cobalt only from certified producers mostly at Australia and definitely not from eastern Congo. Childwork is unknown there. I assume Tesla does the same. No orang utang or human child will suffer. Using sustainable resources is a big issue in modern chemistry. Several customers of mine process plant oil to make chemicals (Since decades, this is not a new idea btw.). Since only one or two percent of the oil production is used for synthetic material the usage of plants does not affect food production in a recognisable amount. And there are a lot of projects to use carbon dioxide as a raw material to make more complex substances. At the moment fossil crude oil ist still too cheap, but fossil oil is a limited resource. Renewable organic stuff is not. At the moment LEGO choose sugar cane to get polyethylene, but there are a lot of alternatives, using either organic waste or even carbon dioxide (Together with renewable energy) All in all it's a very nice idea from LEGO to introduce renewable raw materials to make the plastic for our parts. Sugar cane is the solution available now (but not the only one). But you can be sure there will be a lot of food neutral methods if they will become economic. So please check claims before publishing. Thank you. Another thought: The friction between ABS and polyethylene is higher than between metal and ABS but still rather low. The gigantic containment of the wrecked Tchernobyl reactor glides on polyethylene rails. 35000 metric tons would squeeze any wheel to junk but not theese PE rails which offers low friction even under this load. Lubricating the new wheels with a tiny speck of lithium grease will lower the friction to really low values usable for heavy and fast trains. This kind of grease do not affect both ABS and PE, there is no corrosion or wear. Best wishes, Giottist
  5. Giottist

    New train wheels tested by LEGO

    Please relax. I have the opportunity to test and compare the old axle type with the new one. The new is attractive to me because it offers red wheels. Since a couple of days they are offered by LEGO themself, you have not to rip a unbearable expensive disney train set. The test rig was a rather heavy hopper wagon from the 60098 set, one with the new axles, the other with the old ones: In original state the new axles show twice the friction as the unlubricated metal axles, but lubricated with a tiny speck of lithium grease the difference is nearly neglectable, even with lubricated steel axles. Ok, up to now I have no comparison with the ball bearing solution but at the moment I think the new wheels lubricated with lithium grease is clearly sufficient for daily use. (Of course I bought a heap of ball bearing MR52ZZ from China anyway ) Ah, please do not use something like silicon oil, this stuff is only a mess and an attractor for dirt, dust and fibres.
  6. Giottist

    Axle Bearings -best mod ever!

    I can confirm Seds experiences, with the difference that no "hammering" or so is needed. The diameter of the steel axles is a question of hundredth of a millimeter. Steel rods made of 11CrV3 or 1.2210 aka "Silver Steel" with a diameter of 2mm and a tolerance of h9 fit perfect to the chinese ball bearings. This material is extremly hard and stainless, I had to cut it with an 80 cm bolt cutter but then the material can be grinded easily to the exact length with a carborundum abrasive wheel. It takes about 5 minutes work per axle and it's worth So try out the original LEGO axles and throw them away (or sell them at Ebay) if they do not fit at the first attempt. Silver steel rods 2mm h9 offer a high precision alternative.
  7. Giottist

    Do Big Ben wheels need added traction?

    Great thread, just discovered it ... I had the same problem and found two different solutions: 1) In simple cases use bullfrog snot. This is a latex paint, greenish when wet and nearly transparent if dried (or better polymerized ..) Best results I gut by thinning this stuff with 10% water and put it with a very soft and slim brush on the wheels but not on the flanges. Be careful: Bullfrog snot (or latex paint) on flanges can cause frequently derailments. Be patient, a laye of sufiicient thickness needs perhaps more than one layer. I have best results with 3 or 4 layers of the thinned latex paint. 2) For heavy duty use there is no better solution to cut a shallow notch with a lathe into the wheels. With rubber sealings called O-Rings I have the best results with 1.5 mm diameter (and notch width) and a notch depth of 1 mm. I for myself build a lathe from LEGO bricks driven by two XL motors driven by a 12V grid adapter. The matching 1.5 mm lathe tool can be found on Ebay.
  8. Giottist

    Rotory Snow Plow on Utube

    Nugras channel is full of exiting videos. He don't hesitate to destroy LEGO for the effect from time to time ...
  9. Giottist

    Powered UP to Power Functions adapter

    Do not crimp anything. The offered plugs are without connecting strips and are therefor useless. Just buy ready made pigtails and cables. Despite they seems more expensive they are not because you need no crimping tool.
  10. Giottist

    Powered UP to Power Functions adapter

    A real adapter cable is more complicated than described here: The old PF cables just connected motors and lights to the reciever but sent no information about the connected device back. The situation has changed with the introduction of PU. Even lights or the simple M motor / train motor tells the hub, what's connected. The smart Boost motor or the new L or XL motors have build in angle encoders substituting the old servo motor and send non trivial information back to the hub like the sensors do. Any adapter cable can only connect dumb motors to PU / Control+ hubs and simulate a simple M / train motor, but not more. TrainDragons solution does exact that. Ok, if this is enough, TLG can perform it too. I'm sure, the PU app and BAP will recognise the simple motors and expect no feedback from them. BTW: If you use the search expression "wedo legoing" at AliExpress you can find the first offers for ready made adapter cables or PU plugs for own designs. China ...
  11. Sariel made X-rays from the new motors. really promising for us!
  12. No, Im talking about the new L, XL and Boost motor with includes angle encoders.
  13. Hi Cosmik42, I've just got my first control+ hub and it works fine with PAB. Just a humble question: How much effort it costs to enable the angle encoder in the new L and XL motor an in the Boost medium motor? This is useful for turntables, moveable bridges, complicated switches and so on to let the motor turn only for a preprogrammed amount. (Hmm, or open and close the valve for pneumatic drives )
  14. Hi Cosmik42, Thank you a lot for the new version 1.4 I just tested it wit a real LEGO train in my office: It works perfect! Even the COM port delivers information sent from an Ardiuno at the tracks. Next step will be a limitation to the MAC adresses of my hardware to avoid interference with BT devises in my neighborhood.