Ctan

Eurobricks Vassals
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About Ctan

  • Birthday May 17

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Cracow

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  • Country
    Poland

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  1. Yes, I was following this file. I've sliced file to groups and build it separately. Later I put all together. I'm still waiting for second Sbrick and I'll need to see where to put it (2 smaller or 1 big battery). I have couple of options and that's why I left space in rear part for the bigger 2200 mAh battery (removed piston engine and M motor). For me SBricks and 3S LiPo work best (set to stable 11,8V) and it's more customisable and cheaper than Buwizz for now. Also merging together body and chassis won't be too hard, It will need some dissasembly but I know where to put parts now. As you probably know following LDD instructions need a lot of patience, especially for "flying" parts :) I hope next week it will be fully finished and ready to outdoor ride (I'll make some footage for sure!)
  2. Huh, I have almost done model from LDD, but still need to be merged together and it will be most challenging part of this build :) I've modded the lightbar, front and rear lights because I want them all glow! (custom leds waiting for soldering). Also I don't want to order second BuWizz becasue I think 2 Sbricks + 2x 750 mAh 3S LiPo will be optimal and cheapest power source for this beast. I've found red, ultra-super-rare (XO) liftarms but it's price is above my expectations so I left black ones on sides (front white will be replaced with black too) I can't wait to start playing with it!!!!!!
  3. Ok, but it's not the point to strengthen bushes on u-joint ends but whole thing. I don't need them on a display stand and looking at them. I need u-joints that can survive in rough terrain with extreme conditions, high stress without any special care about them. I've made it for rock crawling. I always been looking for solutions that can suit my needs and make my toys more playable. It's all about having fun with bricks. Not about thinking if it's legal, illegal, wrong, good or whatever. :)
  4. It's cell voltage checker with buzzer. You can set there voltage when alarm is on For example if voltage is below 3,1V on on a single cell)
  5. Here is a seller of brass joints (I've ordered them there). It took about 3 weeks to get them in mailbox so relatively fast. https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32671992611.html?aff_trace_key=ec1ccf5b136247a19c917ba87564be7b-1526836074823-02011-FuvFYny&aff_short_key=FuvFYny&aff_platform=msite Milling cutter is from Dremel set, nothing really special, diameter is about 1,5-2 mm. It's a triangular shape so you can control the size of the hole. I drilled it at 5000 rpm and it wasn't too hard to remove brass. According to this picture it would be great to have 1,7mm cutter. I left tighter hole and pushed axle with force. Before you push axle sand joint flat surfaces with grainy paper, it will help to make stronger connection with 1/2 bush because it also hold axle in place. When you have axle in hole add a 1/2 bush and check if it fits well. If bush is outside the circle it need more drilling. Later glue it with superglue (any cyanoacrylic glue will be ok) and spray with instant hardener. Now you need a correct length (3 studs) and top part of bush fit there perfectly so just cut it and glue to the axle. That's all you need. Also if you're worried that you'll have shorter axle you can use for example 4L black/red axle and cut it to desired length later. @PunkTacoNYC
  6. I've got same problems with buwizz connection, sometime it's connected for 1 min, sometime it won't connect after 10 times of trying to start engine. It's totally random working device. Especially with 5292 RC motors. That's why I have abandoned Buwizz and switched to Sbrick and 3s LiPo with current limiter to 10,8v and everything works fine. It would be great if issues with buwizz will be solved because I feel very dissapointed with spent lot of money on grey brick that randomly or doesn't work. :/
  7. I do illegal mods, I cut bricks, paint them and modifying them if it's needed to get better results. For me they are just pieces of plastic and sometime they can't handle enough stress :) Thanks, hope it help to make stronger creations! Thanks for the info, it's very helpful! I used silicone spray from Lidl market. As far as I've using it no brick melted (about 2 months of intensive using especially with RM8's trophy truck (with 2 buggy motors and 9V constant LiPo). No brick melted and dissolved, so I think it's also good one. Thread on u-joints bushes is very helpful when you're using for example 2x L motor for driving and have 2 in line u-joints (for example combination of: liftarm > axle > u-joint > axle > u-joint > axle > liftarm) It can be easily disconnected on stress and thread or tape really help to keep them on place. It took me about an hour of drilling, cutting, fitting to make 4 brass u-joints. I did it without vice (which can shorten this time a lot) holding this tiny stuff in my hands. Dremel was set for 5000 rpm and brass was hot on acceptable level when drilling :) Working angle is a bit smaller than lego original one but didn't have any issues of 9398 steering. I use RC4WD 1,9" rock crusher tires on but it need more stress tests in outdoors. For sure 1 stalled XL (11,8 V) is not able to break brass ujoint or twist axle. Actually lego shorter axles are pretty damn hard to twist so you can try to make longer sections from shorter axles (maybe additionaly taped) connectors. Update: Today after really 1h of hard crawling, stalling XL's, and harcore play no u-joint was damaged, no axle twists or any damages so all in all mission is completed! And here are a couple of additional pics of power setup: 3s LiPo' s with current limiter to 10,8V to not burn Sbrick. 1800 mAh can handle this model for about 3h of intensive playing. And dirt is always welcomed on the model :)
  8. Nooo, just wanted to replace part that is too easy to break :) I've ordered too much lego u-joints replacements and it's all about fun - less broken joints - more fun. :) Rest of bricks are pretty ok.
  9. Thanks! First I was thinking the same about screws but it wont work for sure, maybe if you put an hard metal rod into axle it may work. It won't work, if wheel stuck no gears can help. All force goes to U-joint and breaking it. Also my crawler is powered by 3S RC LiPo battery with current limiter to 11,8V and SBrick so XL's always have enough torque to break U-joint :) Now this problem dissapeared. When wheel stuck engine just stalling. Also I like when RC models are speedy and powerful. Taking obstacles like on slowmotion is just boring for me. Yes, this cross thingy is always lost outdoors when U-joint is breaking...
  10. Hi, as you probably know Lego Universal Joint 3L is not the strongest one in case of high power aplications. Some time ago I had modified my 9398 Crawler with 2 XL motors and they was breaking joints easily when one wheel stuck. I was looking for solution and found RC boats universal joints on aliexpress (3mm hole). It cost about 2-3$ each or less as far as I remember. So all in all it seems that it can work. Only thing you need to do is drill "X" openings to fit axle. Here is a common view on my 9398 Axles are glued to joints and they are designed to replace original 9398 setup. they have same length using bushes (top part of 1L bush was cut and placed on axle) Hardest part of converting - drilling holes. And here is a result: After testing performance is now pretty cool, additionaly they're lubricated with silicone spray so I don't have to worry about friction and spare Universal Joints in my pocket when driving. Hope you enjoyed my custom made cardans :)
  11. It will be something like this. I've tried also other color variations but availability of all panels is very limited. 5L axles will be added later, no worries :)
  12. Ctan

    42077 Mods Needed

    Hi, I just made a mod with 2 RC buggy motors (5292) powered with custom 2S LiPo (located in back) and Sbrick or 1 Buwizz (located under hood). I've switching power sources to check the difference. Buggy motors fit well there and it's enough space to put them without bigger problems. Here is view without battery (4 stud brick is to mount fake engine) Here with fake engine elevated 1 stud higher than original position. Here is a front of car with removed fans. It's space for Sbrick or Buwizz placement. I add a pin for holding hood in place when driving, also doors are locked by second pin. Also small panel was moved 1 stud to front to make more space for wheel. Hope it can help someone with making it more playable :) I don't have any instructions, just a pictures. Generally performance is pretty ok. Car is a bit too heavy for 2 rc motors. Sbrick with gaming pad as controller works much better than buwizz and touchscreen but buwizz can power this hungry motors better.
  13. I just started building it, my color version will be red body with two black and white stripes in the middle and LBG chassis. I love solid chassis and rest of awesome durable subparts. It's really hard to assemble it from lxf but very rewarding after solving a correct assembly steps :) Great job mate! One of best performance and looking models ever!