baard

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Posts posted by baard

  2. Posted

    Nice build!

    I know how hard it is to incorporate Lego electronics into small builds.

    In my current project I am building my version of the Norwegian shunter SK 223 trying to incorporate 2 M motors, a decoupling mechanism as well as PF receiver and battery in a train that has a 4 wide body and 20 stud length.

    Will post pictures soon, hopefully I will finish it before LFW in Skaerbaek, Denmark this coming weekend.

    Brick on!

  6. Posted

    I love it too

    I think you have captured the features of the real train in a good fashion. I like how you have integrated the large battery box in the middle, I know how tricky space limitations can be when you want to keep the width of the model narrow, and at the same time have the PF cables run by "fat" parts like the battery box.

    Looking forward to seeing it with decals.

    Keep up the good work! :thumbup:

  9. Posted

    The kit will give you the opportunity to have a full PF set to control any train you want. If you can get the components cheaper somewhere else, buy just the train. I have motorized just the front loco of my 2.-set HE as I then only need one battery pack and one receiver. This loco is equipped with two motors, however, and one of them is the cheap RC motor using the PF to 9V extension cable. This gives the train enough power to pull the 4 wagons as well as the last loco without much trouble.

    Good luck

  14. Posted

    Hello

    There are a lot of factors that affect layout setup, but given that you will do the whole thing by yourself I think that the more modular you can make the layout ready, the easier it will be to assemble the layout.

    Time consuming factors assembling the layout at the site are: modules that dismantle in transport, electric wiring enabling the layout to work properly, trial and error at the actual site (everything works fine at home and then....), the amount of detail you strive for (i.e. are there many minifigures that will inhabit your layout, what will they be doing, vehicles etc., etc).

    IMO packing modules in bubble wrap surrounded by gladpack works well to avoid breakage in transport (you dont need tape and can reuse the packing materials), tools and materials to correct/repair tables at the site, tape and a good spirit will take you a long way in getting ready for a show.

    If you are planning a layout with others, multiply time consume with 2...

    Cheers,

    Baard

  17. Posted

    Hi,

    Work in progress for my new train yard with "round"house, turntable and trackside buildings. Main landscape in the yard is 2 bricks + 1 plate above baseplate to be able to hide motors, batteries, gearing etc under the ground. It features motorized switches, motorized turntable, all PF controlled.

    Will post more when more is finished. Dark brown bricks has to be brick linked before the house for the engines can be continued....

    The two engines shown is a modified cargo train and my version of a class 8 diesel shunter, both equipped with retractable magnets enabling the engines to leave wagons on sidetracks and more without using the "hand of God". Adding 9V to the track will enable me to drive other trains one the main line at the same time as these work the yard.

    See my flickr

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/115097068@N03/

    for pictures

    Cheers,

    Baard

  18. Posted

    Hi

    Voted 56 because this is the radius my home layout would be best suited to accomodate (given the space limitations). If you want me to differentiate, my vote would be 56, 104, 88, 72, 9V

    For my Club however, 88 or 104 would be suitable. We have 9V rails and thus would prefer that to be able to continue running DCC and PF together. 9V is the only system that can cater for this option.

    I ordered ME straigth rails, but these are to be combined with Lego pieces that you don't need anymore (i.e. sitting a little too tight on the studs), and slipping of some of my 9V motors.

    Good luck with the production, I am excited to see the result.

    Baard

  19. Posted

    Hi

    There are attempts to use Copper tape on the plastic rails. I have tried this with a plastic 6 wide switch and to be fair; it did not work out very well. A 4 wide track can be made by good use of the old plastic rails, e.g. the blue or light grey versions. Electrifying them will be the challenge. If you are not having troube with modifiing Lego bricks or plates, then fixing metal rails normally intended for model railways is the way to go. Good luck and hope to see your solution.

    Baard

  20. Posted

    Hi,

    I've made a version of a Class 8 shunter that you can find here (scroll a little down and you will find more pictures):

    http://www.flickr.co.../115097068@N03/

    I have solved the "PF receiver ugly protrusion through roof" issue by using trans clear plates. This works fine. My shunter is 6 studs wide and 22 stud long. It has one L motor for propulsion, and one M motor for the uncoupler mechanism as well as the PF battery built in.

    Good luck with your conversion! :classic:

    Baard

  21. Posted

    Hi

    The decoupler is driven by an M motor. The M motor uses one of the channels on IR receiver. The other channel is used for the train motor + lights etc. Thus you can use one IR control, i use the noe with the dial. When the actuator is at the end (fully retracted or extended) the motor will continue to operate and the gears will start to slip and you know this is happening because of the sound (!). However, with practice, you get good at stopping at the right moment, after all you are gong to continue driving your train! The actuator and motor are the strong parts of the mechanism, the gears the weak, so if anything is to be worn out over time it is the gears.

    Good luck in trying and happy building!

    Cheers,

    Baard

  23. Posted

    Does anyone tell me how this is to decouple? I am not sure about its concept...

    On the picture you can see that the magnet is positioned like the magnet on a normal bogie. This is the positition when the loco is pulling wagons like any loco. When the magnet is pulled into the bogie by the actuator, the wagon's magnet will not be able to follow because the buffers hinder this movement. When the magnet is fully retracted you drive the loco away, and the wagons will stay in place. In essence, you can operate this by remote control. This allows for fun activity in a train yard without the use of "hand of God", and also means that it is possible to leave wagons in places on your layout that you cannot reach by hand.

  24. Posted

    So the mini LA gives enough stroke for a full magnetic separation?

    Any problems managing curves or points due to the stretched geometry of bogie? (I mean magnet is a bit away from the swivel point of bogie)

    The mini LA is more than strong enough driven by the M PF motor. No problems managing curves and points because the bogie in effect is only 1 stud longer than most bogies in standard Lego train sets. The only problem I have seen is when trying to decouple while the loco and wagon is in a curve, but this of course does not happen in my train yard :laugh:

    Thanks for posting my picture, Rufus!

  25. Posted

    Hi,

    I have been following this forum for a few years now and am generally impressed by your creations and creative use of bricks.

    Inspired by Selander, HenrikLego, Matija and others I have designed a decoupling mechanism using the mini linear actuator to retract the coupling magnet into the bogie, thus releasing the wagons from the locomotive.

    This bogie can be built into most standard Lego sets, and I have made a MOD to the 3677 Red Cargo train as an example.

    I have also made my version of a Class 08 Diesel shunter with a similar mechanism built in. The train has 2 motors, PF battery, receiver and lights front and back built in, as well as a train weight to make it heavier.

    I have to warn you that I am a bad photographer, and worse, the pictures are taken with a mobile camera. I haven´t figured out how to upload my pictures here, but have made a flickr account to share my design.

    http://www.flickr.co.../115097068@N03/

    Thanks for watching!

    Cheers,

    Baard