baard

Eurobricks Citizen
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Posts posted by baard

  1. Posted

    Thanks for the inspirational article (and numerous posts about the WIP) using SNOT!

    In a current project I am using the The Minifig, Neck Bracket with Back Stud (42446) to fill in the gap under a 2x1x1 old window with plate on top to make a 3 stud high (sideways) window with frame in a snotted wall of headlight bricks. I had thought of using the normal brackets, but these are 4 LDU, not 3 as you mention.

    In one of the old Lego picture books from the Blue era, there is a roller coaster model pictured, where the curved rails are mounted sideways with 5 studs in between, so in my mind the dirtiest way of obtaining straight stretches is simply mounting tiles on plates sideways, usinge a jumper plate solution to attach to Lego rails. This is not a sturdy solution, but definitely quick :laugh:

    Keep up the good work!

  2. Posted

    While I appreciate the beauty of showing children how mechanisms work my experience at shows is that wow factors can be achieved as well with hidden mechanisms.

    I have built in a decoupler in the bogie itself using the same loco as you, but my mechanism is using retraction of the magnet rather than pushing of the wagons.

    Se example from my Flickr page here:

    Decoupler in action

    Picking up the train to show the kids afterwards is always fun.

    Cheers,

    Baard

  6. Posted

    It should power off by itself after 7 minutes or so if idleness. I am still using one of these (taken out of the casing) to power a Robel maintenance train. It seems that it has a linking for fresh batteries though...

    Probably one of the reasons why RC was a short lived solution

  8. Posted · Edited by baard

    Good idea

    The darkest blue is nearest in color.

    I have used Lego stickers on some of my MOCs, cut in different shapes to serve my needs, i.e. model shape cannot be achieved with a different building solution or technique or with elements in the right color. I admit that shaving off a stud has occurred, but do not regard this as cheating or being less puristic. If TLC is the standard, gluing, putting metal into models, various non Lego electronics etc. is the norm, I think I am more puristic and have no problems with this. If the goal is to be able to reuse the parts, I am well within these borders.

    Happy taping!

  9. Posted

    Wonderful project.

    One of the trains I wanted as a child, but never had

    The sound of the 12v brings back memories of the metal smell that comes after a few minutes of running. My Blue era trains still work, but unfortunately gets to see little light due to other projects.

    Thanks for sharing!

  12. Posted · Edited by baard

    Answer to original question - both

    I have 3 rechargable batteries that sit in trains that do not like to be disassembled. This the primary reason for using this battery, as it is expensive

    Charging the battery while it sits in the train has not proven to be a problem so far.

    My x number of the PF battery boxes (both types (AA +AAA batteries) sit in trains where the box is easily removed.

  13. Posted

    Hi,

    I have thought about the same, and made this solution:

    point automatization

    This would remove 2 of your brick levels (my track sits 2 bricks over the baseplate), thus cutting the extra pieces in half :laugh:

    It also allows you to use different mechanisms. In on of my points, I am using the Lego servo to operate a speer that pushes on the point.

  14. Posted

    Hi,

    This is why I build Lego

    The challenge to create something that looks real, but also is functioning well. The limitations of the bricks and space foster creativity.

    As you can see on my Flickr, my MOC of this Norwegian diesel shunter is containing 2 M motors, one 9V battery and the PF receiver ++, and all this is placed within 4 studs. It is possible, albeit difficult.

    MOC:

    Diesel shunter Skd 226 MOC

    Based on real life train:

    Diesel shunter Skd 226 real

    "exploded" view of the trains components:

    Diesel shunter Skd 226 "exploded" to show M motor placement and battery (yes, must be disassembled to change battery:-( )

    and finally showing the decoupler mechanism and PF receiver placement:

    Diesel shunter Skd 226 to show decoupler mechanism as well as PF receiver placement

    Happy building!

  21. Posted · Edited by baard

    Hi

    I have solved this by modyfying the train by lowering the IR receiver 1 plate, this secures a smoother line on top (this is possible with the current motor setup).

    The 2 other changes I also made was the one by securing that the pistons move freely and 1 technic 1x1 bric to prevent the 12 tooth gear from slipping. The train moves slowly and only makes a little jump every now and then.... :grin: .

    I think a part of the problem in curves is that the leading bogie has little or no weight on it and thus will (mis)lead the train at weak points of the track, i.e. curves and at switches. I think that pushing the train is hard for the tender because in curves the pushing is straigth forward and the train wheels in front are not pushed down enough too keep the loco on track. Maybe add some extra weight to the loco in front will help?

  25. Posted

    Hi,

    for me a nice build like your EMD is the beautiful part of this hobby, regardless of scale

    When building trains, one has to consider that the track gauge is not a deciding factor alone. The minifig is about the same height as the track gauge, whereas the average adult human is far longer than 1,43m.

    This means that one has to accept that the Lego train wheels are further to the side than in real life (which poses problems for covering the wheels without a bulky look)

    Another is the short radius of the Lego train track curve. A long train has problems getting easily around the narrow curves, especially with wagons.

    This combined leaves you with the option of making trains close to TLC own selected size, although a lot more detailing can be achieved with 7 or 8-wide trains. When ME tracks with larger radii are readily available this may change. Another factor is also the trackside structures that has to be made larger using the same scale. It is a brick saving activity to build with a smaller scale. Given that the minifig is a little out of proportion to begin with I can imagine that the train fits (if not his head), his hat :laugh:

    Brick on!