baard

Eurobricks Citizen
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    235

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by baard

  3. Posted

    Interesting topic, and nice to see that WIP coming along.

    My experience with the same type of modules is that tiles on top easily holds the modules together when they are many enough, and far easier to assemble/disassemble on shows. That is why a Brick separator is always in the pocket :laugh:

    Keep the pictures coming, and I wish some of the snow could fall her where I live.

  5. Posted

    I want to share a couple of "budget" stories.

    In a conversation with non-AFOL friends I happened to mention my yearly budget for buying Lego. They frowned and gasped (along with my NLSO) when I said "anywhere from 10-30000NOK (=1000-3000Euro), end of conversation. When other people tell about their recent buy of diving equipment, or the gasolene/extra parts budget for their sports motor bike madness of the same amount, somehow these expenditures are socially more acceptable. Who knows why. All 3 complete time consuming, expensive and meaningless hobbies (in the sense that any free time should be spent on community service, philantropy etc etc).

    The other day my NLSO happened to overlook the last bill of sales from a Lego store. She was flabbergasted the price of "more than 8000?". Good for me that she read the DKK sum, not the NOK lower on the receipt which read 11000+ :laugh: . This is, however, the most I have spent at one shot in a Lego store ever. She for some reason did not react the same to spending 330000 NOK on our new car which she is using (cars in Norway are taxed through the roof, so this is at the lower end of the scale..., therefore I use the bike).

    IMHO Lego is expensive and I try to arrange for the cheaper deals as much as I can, but in the long run, buying Lego is no worse than buying stuff for other hobbies. Go for it!

  6. Posted

    I am also familiar with this "problem"

    My NLSO just commented the other night on my Lego room; " it looks like a storage, not a room for a hobby!", and sadly I must admit that it sort of does. Although this hobby certainly is a mix of aquiring sets that I want (and thus need to store in some way or another), as well as building MOCs for which I need a large collection.

    I guess the upside is that I now can discuss the option of also using the attic as storage for the sets that I currently do not build or have on display :laugh:

  14. Posted

    Blue era trains was the love of my childhood, 12V trains and a at that time sizable collection together with my brother allowed us to build large layouts.

    After the Dark age, my love for trains was restarted with the http://brickset.com/sets/4565-1/Freight-and-Crane-Railway that I came across in a store in Thailand.

    From then on I have collected all the trains except some of the express trains (white, with custom made front piece).

    Attempts at building landscapes around my Moc trains are being made. Current WIP is Oppdal train station in Norway.

  16. Posted

    Interesting topic, thanks for posting

    My experience is that locos should only have technic axels where there is no option for anything else. For two bogey trains I replace the non-motor bogey new train wheels on technic axels with one that has the http://alpha.bricklink.com/pages/clone/catalogitem.page?P=2878c02#T=C part. Include some snotting and no one will notice the difference in apperance.

    For slow moving shunters traction is the limiting factor, not speed. Good O rings and weight seem to play a bigger role than motor power for my purposes at least.

  24. Posted

    Nice work!

    I like the way you have used the clutch gear.

    I developed Selander's technique by using a small linear actuator that could also fit in a bogie, this works like a charm too, and allow for even smaller locos to use the mechanism of a retracting magnet. See my flickr

    Diesel shunter Skd 226 to show decoupler mechanism as well as PF receiver placement

    Decoupler

    Keep ut the good work!

  25. Posted

    Really nice shunter

    I like the idea of building a shunter putting a lot of details and functions in a small space

    I have built a version of the Class 8 Diesel shunter as well as a smaller Norwegian SK 226 shunter. In both there are 2 motors, one for propulsion and the other for a built-in decoupler. Gear reduction is not necessary imo because you have 7 steps on your controller, in other words you can pretty much control the speed to be quite low (and realistic).

    Good luck

    My Flickr:

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/115097068@N03/