42177 Mercedes Benz G-500 4x4 MOD's and Improvements

[2GodBDGlory]

2 minutes ago, Stereo said:

Yeah, it's not really an ideal solution, the CV axles only having 2L of axle on them is another problem, it can't use the Ford GT halfshafts because it requires the 52730 CV joint with 3L axle.  So I guess you'd end up with one 6 long suspension arm on that side, and a 5 long on the other side.

Yeah, that would be awkward, I guess you could try to take advantage of that to maintain an odd width of the total vehicle despite an even width at the differential, but it would require lots of asymmetrical building

[Aurorasaurus]

47 minutes ago, 2GodBDGlory said:

That's a pretty cool, compact design! The even width is somewhat annoying, but even if you add a spacer on one side, 7 wide isn't bad!

If you add a spacer... wouldnt it be better just to put the lock straight onto the diff and get the extra gear reduction elsewhere?

4 hours ago, SNIPE said:

this isn't a proper diff lock

I'm curious why you say this, could you please explain why it isn't a proper diff lock? Is it because its not so much locking the diff as coupling the outputs?

Please correct me if I'm missing something, I haven't been following this thread super closely.. but wouldnt a 28t differential with the new 2 module clutch ring driven by another 28t gear, and using ford gt 5 stud cv joints be the ideal solution here? The steering might be a little more of a hassle but I'm sure it would be manageable.

[Aurorasaurus]

With a brick built hub you can have steering, drive, suspension, and a locking diff, at the right width. I think with a custom frame you could do better on the steering not requiring a custom wheel hub.

I also had another idea I think is worth sharing: differentials like in Nico71s warthog. At first the problem might appear to be the gear ratios, but from what I can tell the rear axle would be easy to modify to use a 28t gear to drive the diff. Then the problem of mismatched ratios when the central diff is locked goes away.

Anyway... I've been up for nearly 24 hours now so there's a good chance none of this could work even in the slightest. The solution with custom wheel hubs I had doesn't have a good range of suspension travel while steering.

[SNIPE]

2 hours ago, Aurorasaurus said:

If you add a spacer... wouldnt it be better just to put the lock straight onto the diff and get the extra gear reduction elsewhere?

I'm curious why you say this, could you please explain why it isn't a proper diff lock? Is it because its not so much locking the diff as coupling the outputs?

Correct.

I used a Daytona differential and couldn't fit the steering arms in, they would just hit  off the diff if they were moved from outside of the wheel, or if they were inside the wheels, they would rub against the rims (they must be parralel in all 3 axis to the wishbones). this is why the  v2 ldr file has the steering arms not connected.

I didn't want to move the steering rack even further away from the diff either because its bad for handling and wastes space.

if I did,  it would have sat on top of the 2 eight tooth gears that I used to centre the drive shaft but that's not a problem.

Doing a load of hoop jumping to raise the axle + drive shaft so that you can put the diff+a gear on either side of it to centre the drive shaft (and now the 7x11 frame doesn't block the drive shaft hole) just causes 3 more problems:

1. Gears can slip

2. Massively overcomplicates the design and wastes space

3. Steering rack is now too high to work with the wheels+wheel hubs

So I prefer the direct attachment of  the clutch ring to the diff.

Putting the steering rack on the same side as the diff lock mechanism was certainly not a bad idea in theory but the trouble is:

1. The steering gear+axle is missing and its connetors to hold it are missing (not a huge deal)

2. I need to get the small spike prime angular motor in for the diff lock and it integrates better if its not on the same side as the steering rack.

3. the gray 28 tooth gear is a space hog

Luckily I have 2 working axles with steering, suspension, diff, diff lock and motor already for my 42110 mod so I just need to buy some more specialized parts in order to duplicate those.

This is why we need a chatroom, to more easily share digital models and images, and also chat more in real time lol, here would be for major updates to my mod project and for other people's mods

Edited July 15, 2024 by SNIPE

[kingiswide]

Good place to talk about the 42177 MOD. Thank you! 

Do find some interesting examples of RC compact front diff lock for reference. One of them is in a live front axle of 42129 short wheelbase RC MOD, which is pneumatic controlled independently. Not too sure if it can be set into an IFS model with similar wideth.

【42129短轴升级版-哔哩哔哩】 https://b23.tv/19ZcJzg

 

 

 

Edited July 15, 2024 by kingiswide

[kingiswide]

On 7/12/2024 at 3:35 AM, SNIPE said:

Working on front axle now

EDIT: done, didnt add steeing yet because not sure where the steering goes in real model, I have brick built fake disc brakes that can slip over the wheel hubs, they were originally for my 42110 mod so went over planetary hubs but they should work here too.

LDRAW file: here and full size image here

Really interesting concept. If motorized, maybe use the planetary wheel hub to relief the stress of 8t gear in the drivetrain?

Edited July 15, 2024 by kingiswide

[NV Lego technic]

8 hours ago, Aurorasaurus said:

differentials like in Nico71s warthog

That's the solution I've been thinking of all the time, as it allows for much more space around the axle for a steering and diff lock motor, also requiring less special parts 

[SNIPE]

Here is the v3 chassis still not sure about how far away the rear axle should be from the 19L girders, because on the original set, the rear axle is on a diagonal so I estimated.

Missing 4 bellville microphones in black , these connect to the yellow connectors.

Of course the frames can pivot because they're not properly connected. The pins and green bars are just to keep the cross blocks holding the wishbones central and 5L apart, but signify that theres 1L space available under them.

Edited August 29, 2024 by SNIPE

[NV Lego technic]

On 7/11/2024 at 1:59 AM, SNIPE said:

8 speed gearbox 

Are you sure you could fit that? Anyway, I plan to not change the suspension, and try to fit in everything I can until I run out of space, ides, or parts. This includes a 4 speed gearbox, a front diff lock mechanism which uses independent drivelines connected to one output one side, and the diff sits perpendicular to the axle. This makes it easier to add a steering motor on top, and an adjustable ride hight on both sides. I also have to figure out how to connect the rear lock to other locks. So yeah, I might as well redesign the entire rear axle. Another thing in my list is an RC 4 speed gearbox, and maybe an 8 speed if I find a wax to make it reliable enough to withstand 2 buwizz motors. I will also remove the hi/lo selector. And some other steroids I come up with.

[gyenesvi]

2 hours ago, NV Lego technic said:

Are you sure you could fit that?

Of course much of the above would not fit (in my experince) even into a manual model not to mention a motorized one, but he always lists everything but I have never seen what he actually manage to fit of those wishes. The space requirements of things often compound because the routing of mechanics often get in the way of each other.

I think if you go for an RC model, then even a 2-speed gearbox along all the diff locks will be a real challenge, assuming that you want to keep the interior and not put electronics instead of most of the seats (or put seats unrealistically high in the cabin).

For me a more realistic (albeit modest sounding) challenge would be to implement the manual model with 3 diff locks, along with the hi/lo selector, and a proper 4-link live axle in the rear.

[SNIPE]

v4 chassis WIP:

I added rear wheel steering (a litte bit of turning radius) hi/lo gearbox, DNR selector, centre diff lock, HOG steeting+steeing wheel also added

As previostly mentioned I have a modified 42110 front axle with:

Diff lock motor

Winch motor

Front bumper

Bullbars

Bonnet lock mechanism

Steering motor

Adjustable ride height mechanism

But I can't use that as-is since it needs modifying to work with this model, however it is close enough.

Edited July 31, 2024 by SNIPE

[NV Lego technic]

I'm a bit confused... Are you motorizing it or not?

[SNIPE]

3 hours ago, NV Lego technic said:

I'm a bit confused... Are you motorizing it or not?

Yes.

[burak]

3 hours ago, SNIPE said:

Yes.

Then I would suggest to get rid of those 8-tooth gears near the differentials. They are going to break sooner rather than later if you plan to do some serious driving. 

What you could do is to use the new-type differential but with the red 28-tooth gear instead and mesh it with a regular 28-tooth gear. That way you'll have one gear transition less and a more robust drivetrain.

[NV Lego technic]

5 hours ago, SNIPE said:

Yes

Then why do you have a DNR selector?

[SNIPE]

35 minutes ago, NV Lego technic said:

Then why do you have a DNR selector?

That bit I just copied from a youtube speedbuild, its easier to modify an existing assemly than try to imagine one from scratch I find.

Removing the 8 tooth gears would mean using a 28 tooth gear just to drive the differential and this would get in the way of the steering rack.

I don't intend to do extreme off-roading anyhow and I have a load of 8 tooth gears,  its more about challenging what is possible to squeeze into a certain sized model than having a super strong and reliable model, however I do avoid very weak connections (unless they are just for prototyping)

I don't know why people make their lego muddy and scuffed by taking it outdoors but to each their own..

Oh also remember that a lot of what we see here was designed by LegoScript to be as space and parts count efficiant as possible, so I doubt I can do a better job really than it because its a damn good tool

Edited July 31, 2024 by SNIPE

[NV Lego technic]

51 minutes ago, SNIPE said:

I don't know why people make their lego muddy and scuffed by taking it outdoors but to each their own..

Really? I thought everyone does that (my life is a lie)...

[burak]

12 hours ago, SNIPE said:

Removing the 8 tooth gears would mean using a 28 tooth gear just to drive the differential and this would get in the way of the steering rack.

I don't intend to do extreme off-roading anyhow and I have a load of 8 tooth gears,  its more about challenging what is possible to squeeze into a certain sized model than having a super strong and reliable model, however I do avoid very weak connections (unless they are just for prototyping)

I don't know why people make their lego muddy and scuffed by taking it outdoors but to each their own..

Oh also remember that a lot of what we see here was designed by LegoScript to be as space and parts count efficiant as possible, so I doubt I can do a better job really than it because its a damn good tool

Sure, I understand that. You usually have to make a compromise somewhere, depending on what your goals are. As you said - to each their own  I'm excited to see what functions you'll manage to put into the model

[NV Lego technic]

On 7/15/2024 at 12:51 PM, kingiswide said:

Good place to talk about the 42177 MOD. Thank you! 

Do find some interesting examples of RC compact front diff lock for reference. One of them is in a live front axle of 42129 short wheelbase RC MOD, which is pneumatic controlled independently. Not too sure if it can be set into an IFS model with similar wideth.

【42129短轴升级版-哔哩哔哩】 https://b23.tv/19ZcJzg

 

 

 

Might be a bit off-topic, but what tires are used in the video?

[SNIPE]

Busy building the set (it arrived yesterday) and one idea I want to do is:

Take a chrome sticker from the NASA UCS  space shuttle discovery and cut them to size in order to fit on the side mirrors as well as the rear view mirror

[SNIPE]

I decided to do the same mod that another user did in this thread by using the new-ish bike wheels with a half pin hole and glued on tyre to make rings around the headlights.

Only problem is the half pin hole is too big for the bar so they be a little misaligned but they tend to center up well enough. I could use a tiny piece of pneumatic hose around the bar to help with that but they come in trans clear so it would look ugly and I'm busy dismantling my 42177 since nobody seems to be nodding it and theres not as much space to as the land rover even though the chassis is less dense on the Mercedes.

The land rover mods still continue on my end however

[Aleksiyy]

Hello everyone! I need your opinion: I want to take 2 buggy/BUWIZZ motors . Then connect a boost from a 24-tooth gear to an 8-tooth one to reduce the load in the transmission. Then, on both axles install a differential from an Audi with a reduction of 12-22 teeth and then install portal hubs from a Zetros with additional reduction in the hubs. Will there be enough traction for a model of this weight? I don’t have all the parts yet, I can’t check it myself.

[Aurorasaurus]

1 hour ago, Aleksiyy said:

Hello everyone! I need your opinion: I want to take 2 buggy/BUWIZZ motors . Then connect a boost from a 24-tooth gear to an 8-tooth one to reduce the load in the transmission. Then, on both axles install a differential from an Audi with a reduction of 12-22 teeth and then install portal hubs from a Zetros with additional reduction in the hubs. Will there be enough traction for a model of this weight? I don’t have all the parts yet, I can’t check it myself.

I believe this should have a good amount of power. Do you mean 14:22 or 12:20? 12 and 22 do not mesh. Also, the hubs from zetros are planetary hubs, and the internal reduction is 1:5.4. Please let us know how it goes, this set has huge potential.

[WW Bricks Studio]

Hi guy, this is my LEGO Technic 42177 Mercedes-Benz G 500 full remote controlled version, enjoy!