Alternator Posted June 2, 2016 Posted June 2, 2016 Are we sure that Lego didn't invite a group of people not on the design team to try out the build and experience of the set?! Sure it was probably internal people... But think about what type of person wants to work at Lego... I mean it seems like a great solution to get one of the guys that gave this set a negative(ish) review, but what about those that didn't give it a negative review, there are still people out there that are really excited by this set as observable by the outstanding rating. Though it would appear that Lego has temporarily pulled the online sales due to issues (speculation on our part of course), if so that means that they would consider a mistake has been made. But it could simply be that, a mistake rather than a process issue, people are only human after all and this is a subjective and creative endeavour. Looking at other technic flagships they've all been satisfying, so in general I think Lego's process must be working, maybe (probably) they deviated from the process with this one for obvious reasons (not ones I agree with, but how I would do things does not mean it's the right or only way). This last comment is a slightly pointed comment, but I mean it to make people think and hopefully not regret their buy/ no buy decision. If you followed the discussion on this set, we all already knew what it was about. Build experience and looking like a big Porsche car. Not features! Even TLG took pains to talk about the build experience and the little dinky brief case In a "technic" set. The only new info I can see is that the gearbox is not 100% reliable, And Jim and others have been able to delve deep and really articulate the nature of the set, but we already knew the broad strokes. I mean I have a 42009 that has stopped working because the gearing has siezed up ( those autoextend outrigger feet require quite a lot of torque through the chain of gears)... But I'm still glad I got the set. In this case I can't swallow the price point (if it were inline with other flagships, then I would definitely get it!), but others of you could, so do stop and ask yourself clearly what has changed, and it might honestly be the issues discovered, or even that now the info is cemented you're able to think clearly on the question of to buy or not to buy. tl;dr, community sentiment is like the tides of an ocean, swayed by the moon, which has changed position between pre and post release... If you wanted a technic Porsche to go with your other Technic super cars, TLG have delivered that, they just want a lot of money for it... TLG seemed to be more about the look and build experience with this set. Quote
JunkstyleGio Posted June 2, 2016 Posted June 2, 2016 Are we sure that Lego didn't invite a group of people not on the design team to try out the build and experience of the set?! Sure it was probably internal people... But think about what type of person wants to work at Lego... They did.. Check out the Building-instruction on page 25 Quote
Blakbird Posted June 2, 2016 Posted June 2, 2016 Finished the model a couple of hours ago and thought I would share a few more photos. I incorporated Jetro's changes to allow easy removal of the body, and I'm glad I did. Now the functions are easily visible. I also replaced 100+ pins and connectors with better colors to improve the appearance of the car. I think it looks really good. For those of you wondering how big it is next to a "standard" supercar, here is a picture next to Crowkillers' Porsche. Quote
Paul Boratko Posted June 2, 2016 Posted June 2, 2016 I don't know if this was mentioned or not, but did the set come with any extra rubberbands..? Quote
rener Posted June 2, 2016 Posted June 2, 2016 Jim said no in his review. A bit strange since they tend to wear out, as he mentioned. Quote
Paul Boratko Posted June 2, 2016 Posted June 2, 2016 (edited) Jim said no in his review. A bit strange since they tend to wear out, as he mentioned. I don't know how I missed that when I read it the first time.. Edited June 2, 2016 by Paul Boratko Quote
Blakbird Posted June 2, 2016 Posted June 2, 2016 Jim said no in his review. A bit strange since they tend to wear out, as he mentioned. The "rubber" rubber bands (the black ones) wear out over time, but I have never had that problem with the silicone versions (white, blue, red). They should last effectively forever. Quote
Paul Boratko Posted June 2, 2016 Posted June 2, 2016 The "rubber" rubber bands (the black ones) wear out over time, but I have never had that problem with the silicone versions (white, blue, red). They should last effectively forever. Are they the standard white size or is it a new size..? Quote
Blakbird Posted June 2, 2016 Posted June 2, 2016 Here are my part substitutions. 88ea blue 3L axles replaced with black 40ea blue axle pins replaced with black 10ea red pins 3L with bush replaced with black 8ea blue 1/2 pins replaced with LBG 4ea yellow 1/2 bush replaced with LBG 3ea LBG axle replaced with black axle pin 3L 2ea red axle replaced with black 2ea red 4L thin liftarm replaced with black 1ea BLG pin joiner replaced with 2 bushes 1ea red driving ring axle joiner replaced with standard black axle joiner Are they the standard white size or is it a new size..? Standard. Quote
AlphaX Posted June 2, 2016 Posted June 2, 2016 (edited) Here are my part substitutions. 88ea blue 3L axles replaced with black 40ea blue axle pins replaced with black 10ea red pins 3L with bush replaced with black 8ea blue 1/2 pins replaced with LBG 4ea yellow 1/2 bush replaced with LBG 3ea LBG axle replaced with black axle pin 3L 2ea red axle replaced with black 2ea red 4L thin liftarm replaced with black 1ea BLG pin joiner replaced with 2 bushes 1ea red driving ring axle joiner replaced with standard black axle joiner Standard. I really don't understand why lego even changed the black 3l pins to blue ones in the first hand... . Can someone please explain that to me? Edited June 2, 2016 by AlphaX Quote
Paul Boratko Posted June 2, 2016 Posted June 2, 2016 I really don't understand why lego even changed the black 3l pins to blue ones in the first hand... . Can someone please explain that to me? To avoid people getting confused in the instructions.. Back then there was a also a 3L black axle.. The way things are now, it is almost impossbile to confuse parts.. Almost.. Quote
brunojj1 Posted June 2, 2016 Posted June 2, 2016 Finished the model a couple of hours ago .... You didn´t mention - do all functions with the body on it still work as good as yesterday after completing the chassis and before adding the body? What´s your opinion on the many "bridge overs" or "channeling" techniques? That adds unnecessary friction and doesn´t resemble a real car´s drivetrain in any way. Quote
AlphaX Posted June 2, 2016 Posted June 2, 2016 To avoid people getting confused in the instructions.. Back then there was a also a 3L black axle.. The way things are now, it is almost impossbile to confuse parts.. Almost.. Thx! Makes sense atleast for the newbies and younger builders , but i think here in the porsche they could've used more black ones - at least where they are visible, since its a display model and black is rather "neutral" than blue. Quote
Paul Boratko Posted June 2, 2016 Posted June 2, 2016 Come to think of it, it's been almost 10 years since a set had 3L black pins..Can't believe it's been so long.. Thx! Makes sense atleast for the newbies and younger builders , but i think here in the porsche they could've used more black ones - at least where they are visible, since its a display model and black is rather "neutral" than blue. Oh I agree with you 110% :thumbup: Quote
AlphaX Posted June 2, 2016 Posted June 2, 2016 Come to think of it, it's been almost 10 years since a set had 3L black pins..Can't believe it's been so long.. Wow, its been that long? Tought they did appear around the unimog time. Quote
technic_addict Posted June 2, 2016 Posted June 2, 2016 Here are my part substitutions. 1ea red driving ring axle joiner replaced with standard black axle joiner Did you have to shorten an axle somewhere to make that work? Quote
Jonfensu Posted June 3, 2016 Posted June 3, 2016 Finished the model a couple of hours ago and thought I would share a few more photos. I incorporated Jetro's changes to allow easy removal of the body, and I'm glad I did. Now the functions are easily visible. I also replaced 100+ pins and connectors with better colors to improve the appearance of the car. I think it looks really good Looks good and nice photos. That makes the 4th modified (visual) set of your collection and the first with internal modifications How it is compared with Sheepo's Mustang? Quote
98267a Posted June 3, 2016 Posted June 3, 2016 While it looks great that doesn't IMO justify having less features, Technic has always been about features, I'm pretty disappointing on this one. Also what special downloads does the code give you? I'm just curious on that one. Quote
Alternator Posted June 3, 2016 Posted June 3, 2016 (edited) I've gotten to thinking an interesting question would be for those who have actually made their purchase ( and built the model) whether or not they regret that purchase? and whether or not they bought before knwoing about the gear box sometimes not working? I suspect very few are in fact regretting even if an argument can be made about some of the flaws in the model. Edited June 3, 2016 by Alternator Quote
dhc6twinotter Posted June 3, 2016 Posted June 3, 2016 Instructions are now on Lego.com. No corrections yet... Quote
BrickMonkeyMOCs Posted June 3, 2016 Posted June 3, 2016 I have to say, it looks a LOT better with the black-for-blue pin substitutions. If the set had been released like this and with Jetro's modularity mod and the much needed gearbox corrections, then I'd almost be able to overlook the inflated price—which itself could probably have been avoided by using normal BI and packaging, in which case it would have been a must buy for me. As it is, I think I'll still have to pass. Quote
Blakbird Posted June 3, 2016 Posted June 3, 2016 You didn´t mention - do all functions with the body on it still work as good as yesterday after completing the chassis and before adding the body? Yes. I actually think it works even better with the body on. Did you have to shorten an axle somewhere to make that work? I had to use a longer axle: 4L instead of 3L. Quote
Didumos69 Posted June 3, 2016 Posted June 3, 2016 (edited) Here's another spot that can get you into trouble with friction, and there are several of these. The red 2L axle is supported by a pin with pin hole. The trouble is that this part rests on only a single pin and can therefore rotate. If it is not perfectly aligned with the axle, it can cause a lot of friction. Be careful here. @Blakbird, when looking at page 493 of the instructions (the marriage) it appears to me that at least the pin with pinhole that you discussed in your earlier post (there are more of these as I understand) can be replaced with a 3L axle-pin connector with center pin hole . Can you confirm? Edited June 3, 2016 by Didumos69 Quote
Jim Posted June 3, 2016 Author Posted June 3, 2016 The "rubber" rubber bands (the black ones) wear out over time, but I have never had that problem with the silicone versions (white, blue, red). They should last effectively forever. Okay, I didn't know that. I will add this to my review, thanks. I had several other bands worn out pretty quickly. Nice pics by the way. You have really improved your skills Quote
Saberwing40k Posted June 3, 2016 Posted June 3, 2016 I found another error in the instructions: Step 121 shows the CV joint going to the shifting mechanism coming out at a 90 degree angle, when it should be offset 45 degrees. Then, the build for the shift mechanism proceeds at the incorrect 90 degrees, but you can backdrive the shift mechanism, so that's not too bad. What is too bad is that I was working on an LDD file, and my computer puked so that I lost a lot of changes, essentially bumping me to step 78 from 217, even though I could have sworn I saved right after I mounted the front axle. And, I'll never be able to remove the doubt that I didn't save, even if I thought I did. So, I'll never be able to know if it was my fault or not. I don't think I'll restart, or I might. But, if I do, I'm only building the chassis, and the body frame. The actual body has to many angles for me to consider. Quote
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