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Posted (edited)

I've built this small engine for a harbor freight terminal layout that I've made. It is not a real locomotive replica. I admit that I am closer to the playability side and I prefer the works which keep more of a toy atmosphere :)

This shunter was built on a 14 X 6 studs base and has enough space for the cables, I.R. receiver and the minifig. The access to the battery box is easy from the upper side and the communication between R.C. and I.R. receiver is perfect.

More pictures could be seen here: https://www.flickr.c...157663795962040

24856689125_6b7fdfa4b9_c.jpgLEGO R.C. Shunter 1 by Severus A, on Flickr

24489089369_c66982a9f6_c.jpgLEGO R.C. Shunter 2 by Severus A, on Flickr

24228538474_a2571107f2_c.jpgLEGO R.C. Shunter 3 by Severus A, on Flickr

24830445846_df160ba20f_c.jpgLEGO R.C. Shunter 4 by Severus A, on Flickr

post-154436-0-78897000-1456784501.jpg

Edited by Severus A
Posted

Thank you. As for the roof color it was indeed a hard decision. :classic: First I've made it in one color. Than I've made it as it is now. Finally I've flipped the coin. :sweet:

Posted

Good build squeezing in all those PF components. I like that toy feel. Your photos are kind of dark and it is hard to make out the details in the darker parts of the MOC. I think some more even lighting around your lightbox would help.

Posted

Good build squeezing in all those PF components. I like that toy feel. Your photos are kind of dark and it is hard to make out the details in the darker parts of the MOC. I think some more even lighting around your lightbox would help.

You are right. Unfortunately I am not a very good photographer especially with electronic cameras. But I do my best to learn. :classic: Thanks for the advice, I'll use it.

Posted

Extremely good job squeezing all the PF stuff in. Now you have a shunter that can shunt with a long harbour career ahead of her. Are you going to build decouplers too?

Thank you. A decoupling system would be a beautiful challenge. I've seen some bright ideas on the web and I am thinking about.

Posted

Looks awesome! Was playing around on my layout and now want a decoupling shunter. Shunting with the Maersk just doesnt really cut it.

My personal tastes, I would add a blue cover panel on the rear to hide the gray receiver. Use a 1x1 brick with SNOT to hold it on. Maybe even a 3x4 minifig plate?

Posted

Looks awesome! Was playing around on my layout and now want a decoupling shunter. Shunting with the Maersk just doesnt really cut it.

My personal tastes, I would add a blue cover panel on the rear to hide the gray receiver. Use a 1x1 brick with SNOT to hold it on. Maybe even a 3x4 minifig plate?

Thank you for your excellent notice. Because I prefer to have easy access to the frequency switch and to see the function LED I've made the rear panel in this shape:

24552225719_594808522d_z.jpgLEGO R.C. Shunter 14 by Severus A, on Flickr

24893550006_948fa5e5d2_z.jpgLEGO R.C. Shunter 13 by Severus A, on Flickr

Posted

Thank you for your excellent notice. Because I prefer to have easy access to the frequency switch and to see the function LED I've made the rear panel in this shape:

Looking good! I just set my locos to fixed channels. Only have two with headlights, so I can run 6 on my layout with left and right dials. Only have room for 4 anyways.

There is a VERY compact PF shunter with decoupler (linear actuator underneath to pull back the magnet) on this forum somewhere if you dig. It was a cool project. Someone not in the air, flying on limited wifi, could find it easier than I can right now.

Posted

Looking good! I just set my locos to fixed channels. Only have two with headlights, so I can run 6 on my layout with left and right dials. Only have room for 4 anyways.

There is a VERY compact PF shunter with decoupler (linear actuator underneath to pull back the magnet) on this forum somewhere if you dig. It was a cool project. Someone not in the air, flying on limited wifi, could find it easier than I can right now.

I need the easy access for changing frequencies especially for the public events organized by my LUG. When many electric items should be put in the same scheme such a facility becomes an essential one.

I've searched for the decoupler idea you wrote about but I've not found it yet. Please let me know if you find it before I do.

Posted

Decoupler, here it is. Flip around my Flickr, then you can see my version of a Norwegian SKD 226 shunter. I use the small 9V battery box with a cable conversion, and 2 M motors. Because of the decoupler mechanism, the propulsion of the train is only on two wheels. The same goes for my version of a class 8 Diesel chunter, where I have made a video of the decoupling. See links

Diesel shunter Skd 226 to show decoupler mechanism as well as PF receiver placement

Decoupler in action
Posted

Decoupler, here it is. Flip around my Flickr, then you can see my version of a Norwegian SKD 226 shunter. I use the small 9V battery box with a cable conversion, and 2 M motors. Because of the decoupler mechanism, the propulsion of the train is only on two wheels. The same goes for my version of a class 8 Diesel chunter, where I have made a video of the decoupling. See links

https://www.flickr.c...eposted-public/

https://www.flickr.c...eposted-public/

Thanks a lot for sharing. I saw many awesome ideas on your MOCs. I might borrow some of them in the future.

hi all

you know i see this and i think how cool is that, wish i could build something that good for my track.

will

Thanks Will. Just start to build. The experience comes with exercise :)

Posted

Thanks a lot for sharing. I saw many awesome ideas on your MOCs. I might borrow some of them in the future.

Anytime. I lurk around this forum all the time and get a lot of inspiration from others. Selander from Sweden was the first builder to use a linear actuator under the train to retract the magnet as a decoupling mechanism for instance, I just refined the idea to fit smaller spaces.

Thanks for sharing your model, I like your shunter :classic:. Happy building!

Posted (edited)

Nice little shunter!

There is some good detailing and also with PF. You probably have to plan sending your signals or do the walls do a good job of reflecting the signals?

Thank you. Please excuse me for late answer. The communication between the remote control and I.R. receiver is very good from any direction. In fact the head of the I.R. is open on one side and the walls of the engine are not wide enough to block the signal from other different directions.

Edited by Severus A
Posted

Hi Severus A. I was wondering: where did you get your pieces? It seems that some, particularly the doors, are from 60052, but I'm not sure about those safety striping tiles. If you know, it would be great if you could tell me. Thanks!

-Theo

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