Didumos69

I'm afraid I won't be able to do that. I've had some bad experiences with sharing digital designs of my models. I'm sorry.

I think these AliExpress TN1007 tires are indeed the ones I have. The rubber is much softer, so they easily fit the G500 rims without modification. The G500 rim has 2 ridges on each side. The LEGO tires fall between these 2 ridges, but the crawler tires need to fall just inside the inner ridge to fit nicely.

The front and rear axles are not connected. In the PU version 1 L moter drives the front and 2L motors drive the rear. In the BuWizz version 2 BuWizz motors drive the front and 2 BuWizz motors drive the rear.

No, I didn't, but maybe I was lucky.

You're right. I've been mistaken, sorry for the confusion. I bought them in their online store. At the time (a year ago) I bought 8 of them for 63.60 euros, shipping was 29.95 euros. Nice stuff. Searching for solutions I also found this site to be very interesting. They also sell wheelhubs and brushless motors etc. It all looks very tempting, but for me it must also remain a challenge to stay as close to LEGO as possible. https://www.zenebricks.com/collections/technics-super-speed-rc/products/lego-rc-metal-differential

No. Only the inventory and the instructions are different. They reflect the different color.

The black version has also been approved on Rebrickable.

Thanks for your message @gyenesvi! The biggest issue was where the rear drive shaft enters the differential area. Because of the 90 degree angle with the big yellow differential gear, the axle pushes itself sideways, away from the differential gear. In turns, the rear axle slows down compared to the front axles and the power only increases. This problem caused the axle and the 5x7 frame around the diff to melt. This melting was very apparent in the RWD version (with 4 Buwizz motors), but also happened in the 4WD version after driving for around 5 minutes straight. I used lubrication (WD-40 Dry PTFE), even PTFE foil which fitted around the axle inside a pin-hole, but to no avail. So I resorted to the 5L metal beams with ball bearings which only cost 8 euros a piece. That made a very big difference. No overheating whatsoever. The only downside was that I could no longer wrap the differential in a 5x7 frame. They offer metal frames with ball bearings as well, but those are way more costly. Not using a 5x7 frame around the differential, resulted in the big yellow bevel gear coming loose from the differential house under heavy load. This I noticed, because the model was getting slower. The buggy motors just keep doing their job. As a result, the disconnected differential carved itself deep into its adjacent parts. This happened only once, but I wanted to solve it. The thin PTFE-coated washers - again not expensive - solved this. Finally, a smaller issue was that the female CV-joints sticking out of the differential gradually found their way out of the small bevel gears inside the differential and once this happened, they started carving a round hole in these bevel gears. This I could easily resolve by adding supports holding the left and right drive shafts half way down the wishbones. For me the challenge was to keep the insane performance that 4 BuWizz motors give, but without damaging any parts. I did try a setup with one Buwizz 3 unit and 4 L motors, even bought a converter cable for the 5th PU motor for steering, but the performance was by far not as good as with the Buwizz motors. The main reason is that the 4 PU ports of the BuWizz 3 have lower power output than the 2 PF ports, which I use for the Buwizz motors. From what I can read on my display during operation, the PF ports give almost twice as much current as the PU ports. Adding a video of the PU version and some photos is a good idea. I will do that. The whole idea of the PU version wasn't planned. The admins at Rebrickable gave me a hard time in getting this model approved. They only allowed this model to be premium if I could guarantee that people buying the instructions wouldn't damage their LEGOs, even if they wouldn't use the metal parts that I suggest. So I made a full PU version, which can't do any harm. To me this PU version only serves as a proxy to make the BuWizz version available. But now that the PU version is part of it, I could add some more info about it. EDIT: Maybe it's worth mentioning what my motivation behind this kind of models is. I love the endless tweaking and improving. Making small changes, testing, trying to reason why things happen as they happen, making other changes, etc. Until I think it's good enough to offer to others. I've taken it apart so often that I think I can build the complete chassis from the top of my head. The only reason that I sell (ask money for) the instructions is to finance the hobby. So personally, I don't find fulfilment in turning this into a PU version after all the iterations I've gone through, but again, now that the PU version is there, I could give it a little more attention.

Finally... The instructions are on Rebrickable under the name '4WD RC Race Buggy + BuWizz MOD'. In addition to the instructions for the basic PoweredUp version, the instruction files of this MOC include - as a bonus - a parts list and instructions for the BuWizz version, which uses 2 x BuWizz 3.0 Pro + 4 x BuWizz Motor. -- The parts list for the BuWizz version differs from the inventory listed in this MOC. -- The list of LEGO-parts (.csv) and the list of other parts used (.pdf) for the BuWizz version can also be found here and here respectively.

Yes that's correct. @amorti, this is indeed a nice opportunity to fix that. I will send you a PM. I've already got quite a thread with the Rebrickable admins. I don't think I will get away with putting guessable placeholders in for the 3rd party parts. I'm now working on the PoweredUp version and the admins at Rebrickable are ok with me adding the Buwizz version with 3rd party parts as a bonus pdf in the same MOC submission. as long as its clear that the Buwizz version is a MOD of the original submission.

I'll do my best to finish all this asap. I'd rather not share a preliminary parts list, because I want to be able to make changes. It want te keep the diff between the BuWizz version and the poweredup version as small as possible.

Thank you all for the kind words and the suggestions! I'm not very good with those part lists on Rebrickable, so I don't have a delta list. I really like the „lower performance version“ idea from @Toshi, especially because it makes the model accessible to more people. Yesterday evening I've managed to replace the section with the 4 Buwizz motors with 3 Powered-up L-motors, 1 for the front and 2 for the rear. With the L-motor for steering I use all the outputs of the Powered-up controller/battery box. It turns out to be a really playable model suitable for indoors driving. This will of course give some delay with the instructions.

Just a quick question. Can I use the JV8011 Control Unit to operate 2 JV1077 battery boxes simultaneously?

Please add to that: 1 x Traxxas Model#1985 PTFE-coated Washers, 5x8x0.5mm (they come in packs of 20, so you need 1 pack) I have the instructions ready, also a video and some outdoor photos (I've updated the original post with them). Now Rebrickable won't let me submit it as a premium moc, because it uses parts that are not from LEGO. The Buwizzes and Buwizz motors are allowed, but the other parts are not. Their point is that if this model would be build from LEGO-parts only, it would damage those parts. My argument was that the whole point of using the 3rd party parts is to avoid damage to LEGO parts. This model seeks the limits of what you can do with Buwizz parts (which are allowed), without damaging LEGO parts and with minimal use of 3rd party parts. But they don't buy that. I understand their point of view, so now I'm looking into selling the instructions in a different way. I wanted to ask the usual 15 euros for it. One option I'm thinking of is that I make the instructions for the chassis free and put the instructions for the bodywork up for sale on Rebrickable, but I'm not sure yet. Suggestions are welcome.

Thanks! I love such screen shots too! I will wait with sharing the exact parts list until all is final. What I can do, is share the list of third party parts that are needed. 2 x BuWizz 3.0 Pro+ 2 x BuWizz Motor (include 1 BuWizz and 2 motors per pack) 2 x Aluminium Metal Beam Bearing Block liftarm compatible with Lego Technic Apart from that I strongly recommend using these tires. They are from much softer rubber than LEGO tires and for that reason they have much better grip and they absorb a lot beating. That also reduces the chances of having an entire wheel coming off, which never happened to me with these tires. Only when I crashed. These tires are in fact crawler tires and come with soft foam inserts. For my purpose, I replaced the included inserts with bigger ones, to get a little more pressure in the tires. That makes them more suitable for racing. 2 x RC4WD Tires Dick Cepek Mud Country 1.9 (they come in packs of 2) 1 x 1.9 Foams RC Tire Foam Inserts Black 4pcs (4 pieces in one pack)