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Found 6 results

  1. I can't seem to find anything about this elsewhere, so I'm going to ask here directly. Are there any disadvantage of using the older, 9v battery pack (4760c01) that took one 9v cell to run power functions receivers and motors instead of the current, 6x AAA battery pack (87513)? I know it will require a converter cable, but from my view it looks as though a 9v battery pack would be better as it is smaller (in height) and available in more colours than just DBG, so easier to hide in 4-wide MOCs and such. Will this have lower power or current output to the motors, or discharge faster? Is it suitable for use in train MOCs, considering mine won't need to run very far or for very long? I was intending on using it with a rechargeable 9v cell or two, how often would I need to swap one out and recharge it? I'm trying to decide whether or not buying one, and a converter cable, is a good idea. (Or I could try bashing together a PF cable and 9v battery clip perhaps, like this.) Thanks in advance for any help!
  2. Hi peeps So today I was building the 42030 and noticed the battery box has several differences to the ones I owned before. 1. First of all the switch is much better to operate, it sticks in the off poistion much better and is easier to control. 2. LED is much brighter and green-ish compared to old ones: 3. The mold has been changed so that the symbol for DO NOT THROW IN TRASH is now on the other side of the battrey box. They also imprinted serial number which I think stands for 40th week of 2015, making this battery box very young 5. The arrows and the square next to the toggle switch are now textured and not smooth. I also noticed the motors having the imprinted date in the hard dark like in the third picture. The IR recerivers had same LED's as before. Here's what I DONT GET. If there is suppose to be a new PF2.0 next year, why bother improving the current, soon-to-be-outdated system? I have a feeling we have not seen the last of PF 1.0. Your opinions/experiences?
  3. Hi my name is Jan I was trying to fix the battery box of our space shuttle set. The problem appears to be in the switch part as the circuit is complete from first battery to last. I decided to take the red switch top off. Unfortunately one of the metal strips inside popped out (the one that is not fixed in) and I am not sure how it fitted in. Can anyone please tell me where the metal strip goes and explain how the mechanism inside the switch works. I understand that it reverses the polarity when you press down alternate switches. Thank you
  4. I remember a topic from a few months ago about someone who managed to fit the PF battery box under the train base on a MOC of theirs. I've been trying to find it, using the search box, google, and just about every word combination I can think of, but I still can't find it. Can anyone help me? I'd like to use this on a MOC soon.
  5. Hello all. I have seen plenty of places on the Internet where people have hotwired their LEGO battery boxes and hooked them up to a laboratory power supply. I have also seen plenty of places where people have converted an old PC power supply into a cheap laboratory power supply. However, I've not seen anywhere on the Internet where people have done both. So I did it myself. Details here http://www.lugnet.com/~2801/PowerSupply Questions, comments, queries or concerns?
  6. Hello. I got an old battery box with battery leaked, so I disassembled it and clean the metal. Now the problem, it works but not the way it should. Right button pressed - work, no button pressed - also work, left button turns it off :( Does someone here every took apart one of this and can help me put it back together ? http://images40.fotosik.pl/1939/18666e1a71b8c763gen.jpg