Erik Leppen

Eurobricks Counts
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Erik Leppen

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Interests
    Game development, roller coasters, mathematics, LEGO


  • Country
  • Special Tags 1
  1. One for each steering axle = 2 One for each outrigger = 4 One for the final crane section = 1 Total 7
  2. In the beginning I wasn't convinced it would work out (due to the strange seat position), but it turns out pretty good, really. It's a bit short, but I like it.
  3. The backlash is the smallest when the gear is very large. So, have you tried using the new 11x11 yellow quarter gear racks from the BWE 42055? Or the (old) Hailfire droid wheels? If you drive one of those using a 8t or so, there's so much reduction that the amount of play is almost zero. Also, maybe you could play with friction. Play may be less of an issue if the drum has more friction. It will take more force to turn, but it will turn very slowly anyway, and with more friction, other parts of the instrument will also have less chance to push the drum a certain way. Adding fritoin could be done by rolling the drum against one or more small tires on blue axle pins. Another way is using exactly such tires to drive the drum (works best if the cylinder is exactly circular). Then you don't need gear teeth at all, but you use friction as a way to drive the cylinder. Use springs to push motor-driven tires against the outside of the drum. Use multiple for more torque/force.
  4. I once sold a lot of stuff a few years back. What I did was the following: Divide everything in relatively small categories. Panels, wheels, thick beams, thin beams, bricks, plates, gears, electronics, rare parts, whole sets, that stuff. (A lot of this you already did). Then, make a large spreadsheet where for every category, you try to estimate number of pieces (you can estimate this by picking a section, say 1/4 or 1/2 of the lot, count that, and multiply your count accordingly to get an approximate total) reasonable average price per piece (youi can esimate this by looking up used sales prices on Bricklink) Then, multiply the two to get the category's price. Multiply with a factor less than 1 for used, old, might-not-work (old pneumatics, old electronics) to get a final price for that category. Then, add all category prices to get the total. Also, take good pictures of every category. This you will need to communicate to potential buyers. The better the pictures, the better they can see what they think it's worth. And, of course, as goes without saying, disassemble everything that's not a complete set. That's concerning the question "what price?". The other question is of course "should I sell at all?". What I did was only sell pieces I didn't use for years. I wouldn't sell things you still use. You might regret it. Buying it all back will (almost surely) be (a lot) more expensive. Instead of selling, consider just not buying anything and see if you lose interest at all. You might discover that you don't want to miss it, or you might discover that indeed you're not using it anymore. When you know that, you can make a better informed decision to sell all, to keep all, or to sell some and keep some.
  5. That may be true, Digger, but IMHO, boxy designs are also a bit boring. Just compare the Mini with the Beetle. They're both nice sets, but the Beetle has more interesting building techniques. That's what I like in a Creator Expert model. "Expert" doesn't just mean "larger".
  6. I'd love to see detailed creator models of modern supercars (like those seen in video games), in a scale similar to the F40 or the Lamborghini 8169 set (16 stud wide), e.g. McLaren, Pagani, Koenigsegg, Saleen S7, Bugatti Veyron. And a Lamborghini Countach and a LMP car in that scale. But, knowing myself, I'm not sure if I'd buy even that...
  7. In my opinion, the differences between small sets are not that large. Anything goes. But start small, because then you can surprise him multiple times with incremetnially bigger sets. If you go big now, you've basically spoilt it in one go. Also, why not just go to a toy shop and let him choose for hi self sithin a specified budget (thaf you give him in cash)? That way he learns to make his own choices and their consequences (if his chosen set disappoints), and learn to work with money - what he doesn't spend he can save for another time.
  8. I love how you guys just made the instructions available for free. It looks like a model I'd like to try to build. I'm curious to cheking out the solidity of everything in real life. I like the extensive use of Pythagoras 3-4-5 angles. Problem: I'm missing a few essential parts. Eight, at least (four tyres and four rims). Do there happen to be other rims/tyres that fit as well? Or do I really need the porsche rims (which I don't have)? For examle, would the tyres from the funny car 42050 fit? Or do you use all the space inside the deep rims of the Porsche?
  9. Thing is, I like symmetry. So if i have any choice, I prefer to let things go through the middle, rather than the sides. But there's only so much middle in a model, of course. So I doubt I'd be able to design something like that, @steph77... Anyhow, there's progress! I built my virtual design in real: I left a few things out (rear wheel arches, boom) because they haven't changed. I changed the shape of the chimneys so they are less wide (they now partially fall in the slit between the battery box's connectors. The BB fits perfectly, although it just sits there loose (not connected to anything). I had to make a few changes though. The gears from the motor are now 12:24, meaning the front grille can't be fixed there anymore, so the connection to the grille is kinda weak. Some functions are still too fast, I don't know how I can change those. Boom lift is fine. Outriggers are too fast. Car lift is a bit fast as well. Fourth function isn't implemented yet. The bright moment I had was when I found that there was room between the outrigger drive axles to drive the outrigger system right through the center. The axle to drive the car lift had to move up one stud, so it has 4 U-joints now... By the way, I'm glad the axle 11 exists, because I needed it in a few places :) Sleeper cabin is now filled with gearing, but I keep the openable doors, I like them. I might add something in red right above the gearbox to represent some kind of bed.
  10. I think the problem with the frame right now is that the cool-looking side panels actually do nothing to add strength. They only have three connection points each (front, middle, rear), so all they can do is keep those three points in the same relative plane or line. For this to work, the center part with the 5x11 frames shouldn't be able to move vertically relative to the sides. So you need a center joint that is vertically rigid. You don't have that if you use rubber connectors. This means that the middle frame can just bend without the side frames doing anything to prevent that. So yeah, it looks cool, but I don't expect it to be very strong... But I may be proven wrong, I don't have 4 of those pieces to test it out. I'm just theorizing :)
  11. I don't have LDD, so I don't know the exact offset, but the solution by @Didumos69 gave me an idea: I tried to look for a solution that gave an unusual horizontal offset, with the vertical offset still in system. This solution looks simple and strong, so I hope you can do something with it. I didn't work out the connectivity further, the essence is that triangle. If the offset is not correct, maybe you can lengthen the yellow beams from 3L to 4L to change the offset, or even to 2.5L by using cams on bars.
  12. I don't understand what you're trying to do. What kind of unit is it you're building (not the whole thing, just this section/module)? Should the black parts rotate? The lime beams won't make it so. Slide? Is it some kind of suspension? What are the lime beams for? What would the "illegal" connection (in your opinion) be? What are the rubber parts for? Should the red parts at the ends (with the #3 angle connectors) move, rotate, or be still?
  13. Those wheels look much better, I think. Curious to see where this will go. I can't remember having seen LMP cars in this scale ever before.
  14. Pneumatics, I'm afraid, is not an option. I sold my pneumatic parts a few years back and I missed out on the Arocs. Anyhow, after a looong stretch of fiddling around with MLCAD, I might have come up with a way of motorizing 4 functions. It has a few problems though, and I have to try it in real bricks to know if it even works. Medium green = steering Azure = motorization and switches Orange = outriggers Violet = main boom lift Purple (only that one gear) = will go to the extension Light green = car lift This means the winch will still be manual, which I find to be a nice compromise, because then I can add a ratchet mechanism. First, I noticed in the version on the photographs, there was empty space under the hood. I figured, what if I could put an M motor there? And could a battery box fit behind the cabin (where it often is in sets as well)? Maybe... So I started trying to fit a gearbox in the remaining space. To make this fit, I had to make the truck one stud longer. The dimensions of the truck were taken from a photo, so I didn't want to move things too much. One stud may be OK. The possible issues with the solution are: he hood doesn't fully close anymore. So I may have to change the shape of the hood a bit. ll the gearing just fits. In many places there's no way to switch gears around. The 20:16 gearing from the motor can only be that or 24:12, or it won't fit. The two orange gears you see have to be 16:16, or it won't fit. The light green 16:20 can only be that or 20:16, or it won't fit. Same goes for many other places. So, if any function moves way too fast or way too slow, I'm basically screwed. The light green geartrain uses a lot of universal/CV joints to go around the rest, but this is a small function so I hope it won't be a problem The truck is 13 studs wide, and the battery box is 11 wide (I don't have any other BB's). I had planned for some nice chimneys right behind the cabin using 2x2 round bricks, but that wouldn't fit. So I will have to change the chimneys to something smaller. I used the old 2L driving ring, so the switches are offset a half stud. The sleeper cabin will be entirely filled with gearing... The battery box prevents me from adding a reinforcement beam straight from the top of the cabin backwards. Hopefully rigidity won't suffer too much. I haven't planned the cable from the BB to the motor yet Next step is to try this with real bricks to see what works and what doesn't... (By the way this is how I always work nowadays. Use MLCad and real bricks in unison, because by switching all the time, I automatically build everything multiple times, and with every build I keep finding new solutions (and with real bricks I see other things than virtually), making for a better end result.
  15. I'm building a tow truck, and I'm running into a problem with the design of the functions. First, let's do an image of what we're talking about. As you see, it's a smaller-scale version of a tow truck similar to 8285, but with an extra axle. The wheels will be those from 42024 and other sets. Because of the scale, there is probably not enough room to add PF. So right now I'm aiming to have it manual. As far as I can see now, there will be the following functions: steering main boom raising/lowering main boom extension main boom winch car lifter raising/lowering car lifter fold out/in outriggers The steering is done and controlled by the gear on the roof. The car lifter fold in/out will be manual with a knob at the back. Remaining are 5 functions. The question I'm having now is, how to drive those. Of course, with the model being manual, I could just add a knob for every function. But this doesn't sound like the most technically challenging option, so I am thinking of adding some kind of switchbox. But, 5 functions is kind of an unwieldy number, ecause it requires 3 switches with 1 being half-used. Currently, the outriggers are driven by knobs on the side, and I could leave it that way and have 4 functions running from the switchbox, but this feels kind of incomplete as well. So I'm unsure about where to go from here. So I'm looking for some advice. What do you think? Are there other options? What would you do?