Erik Leppen

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About Erik Leppen

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Game development, roller coasters, mathematics, LEGO

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  • Country
    Netherlands
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  1. Looks like a nice start. I like the scale. Front suspension looks simple and clean. Could you show a few more pictures of various angles, and of some of the techniques? One without wheels, to show the suspension? How's the steering rack connected? From the side, so the proportions can be better seen? It does look like there's some room between the front axle and the dashboard, and the actual driver's seat may be a bit cramped (steering wheel very close to chest), but it's hard to see from this angle. Curious where this project will go. I like all those WIP topics, it shows so much more than just a finished model - you get a sense of how people build, I like that. Keep up the good work, looking forward to other updates.
  2. Today's progress is a little bit more modest - I reinforced the structure and added details to the interior. The steering wheel is now finished and some panels added to the interior. There is a beam over the engine that connects to the frame, so that is now sturdy chassis. I replaced the dark gray 1x2 cross blocks in the rear axle by 2x2 bent pin joiners which can be reinforced, thanks to @Didumos69's advice. Here's another picture of our favorite side: Next up: starting with the body. I usually start with the lower front (the nose), the lower rear, and the sides. I have some ideas about the color scheme, which you will see in due time :)
  3. That's a good critique, @Didumos69, about the linkage of the rear axle. Indeed I notice sometimes the dark gray 1x2 cross block has slid off a little (a quarter stud or so). In fact they are "form locked" in that sense that if one axle joiner is moved outwards, it moves the other inwards via the two steering links, but I agree it's not optimal. However, if they don't slide there's very little play, and after looking at it a bit I notice that I can replace the 1x2 cross blocks by 2x2 bent pin joiners, which have a third hole that can be connected securely, to the 5x7 frame (if pointing down) or, of pointing upwards, by replacing the 5L axle with 7L. So I'll be changing that (at the expense of having to use a rarer part, but oh well).
  4. Why are people here giving those copycats free links to their videos, with their ads so they earn more money? Isn't that exactly what they want? Why not link to the original, giving that extra views, and put the link to the tcopy in a spoiler so the author can use it to report the copycat?
  5. Not in the latest pictures; there it's light gray as the part has always been.
  6. Wow, that's a lot of replies so quick. I see there's a lot of discussion about the springs. Let me clarify what I meant. See also the attached image at the bottom of the post. The spring has a fixed strength. If the attachment point is far away from the hinge, it has a large arm of momentum, meaning each millimeter of vertical travel will compress the spring by a large amount, which requires a large amount of force. In the left image, 1 mm of vertical travel may compress the spring only 1/3 mm, which requires little force. In the right image, 1 mm of vertical travel will compress the spring 1 mm, which requires 3 times as much force. So it holds 3 times as much weight, but with 3 times as little travel. @PorkyMonster: you're right that springs compress linearly, but the spring in a Lego shock is pre-compressed. If you would dismantle it, the spring would be longer than in the part. The precompression force will be about 500 g or so, so that's why 25% is about 700g, because that's 25% on the way from 500 to 1300. (numbers are approximate for clarity). Also, as a Lego shock absorber has only two pinholes, it's a two-force member, so it's always in "direct compression" (if it's free to move). The only place where force can be lost, is friction. Anyhow. Progress! I copied the front axle, but replaced the steering by fixed links. I could have used non-steering hub parts, but I liked the similarity between both modules. Engine is placed, @Lipko, between the gearbox and rear axle. And I found a way to connect the seats unit to the front axle unit with much less distance between. The central console has been widened to 7 to allow the two long green beams to run through to add strength. These have to be lengthened in some way to the back (over the engine probably) to have a continuous beam from front to back to add more stiffness. Also, HOG is added (12t gear behind front axle), and steering wheel is added (white beam is temporary). It's an easy change to put the steering wheel on the other side. If the front axle is one of the best you've seen, than you haven't seen very much, because it's nothing out of the ordinary. No camber, no caster (whatever those are), not even Ackermann steering. Just the same properties as that of 8880. Lots of axle modules by other people are much more imaginative and interesting than this. There's even a bit of play in the steering rack because it had to move out of the way of the differential and the support beams (so it's "["-shaped). I'm not entirely happy with the steering rack, but I don't think there're many better options. Also, no problem you don't like the color. It's unusual, that's why I like it, but it's not very realistic Does this help? But again, I don't think it's my design. It's a while old already, I don't know where I saw it first. I don't know if you can see it, but the 16t side of the diff drives 1st, 3rd, 5th gear 16t clutch gears. The 20t (on the axle of the 8t gear) drives the reverse-gear. Because it's 3x as fast as the diff, reverse gear has similar speed as first gear. The other 20t (on the same axle as the whtie gear) drives the 2nd, 4th gear clutches. The level above it, with the clutch gears, is the same as in set 8448 (directly next to the 5x7 frame you see the two pairs of 12-20). Does this help? The 2L axle at the bottom holds two 2 x 0.5 beams and the hinge axle has a 2L beam too. Some more images: More on the Brickshelf folder: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=570177 (not public directly after any uploads)
  7. I took myself on the quest to create a new supercar, in a new scale. Normally, when I build suprecars I aways use the wheels from 8070, 42039 and the like, which is about a 1:10 scale. This is smaller than many cars by other builders, who use the larger tyres from 42000 or more recently the Porsche. So I set myself the challenge to build a car in the somewhat larger scale of 1:8. Which is, I'll be using these wheels which I'd bought myself as a little present :) It won't be a particular existing model, but I used a plan of a Ford GT to find the measurements relative to the wheels. It will be 27 to 29 wide. This is quite a bit larger than I'm used to, so this will be interesting. I'm relatively good at doing the chassis, so the largest challenge will be the body. It will not be motorized. Here's the front axle. I want to have it all-wheel drive, so the rear axle will be similar, except the steering. The arm for the suspension on the lower wishbone is relatively long, which means the suspension travel is just about one stud. I always try to limit the suspension travel, because then the wheel arch will not need to be so huge. Also, with less travel, the suspension will be stiffer, so that one spring per wheel will still hold the weight. The second unit I started is the gearbox and interior. As usual, I try to do something with color, and I selected green for the interior. I got myself a few extra small panels, which are super useful for finishing touches to almost everything. As you can see, the seats are adjustable; they slide on an axle and the backrest can be inclined (no gearing though). Similar to ye olde 8865 :) The gearbox will be 5+R with 1, 3, 5 forward and 2, 4, R backward, just like in some real cars. The gearing is a known design I used previously, I believe it's not even my design but it's perfect, so I just copy it. It uses the old driving rings, so that explains the 1/2 stud offset. So far, this is sort of the progress/plan. The connection between the two modules is temporary, because the space between them is way too large. The whole seats unit will move forward, but I'm not sure yet how much. The position of the rear wheels is guessed to be approximately there. (Yes, I know the tow truck isn't finished yet. I'll finish it, but my local LUG has a meeting soon and I want to present more than one model, so I will take this one there aswell.)
  8. To be honest, I like how the colored pins and axles clarify instructions. When someone creates instructions for a MOC and it has black 3L pins, I get all confused. Back in the day, when 3L pins were black, Technic sets were simpler (and used more System pieces, so much less pins), so it was possible to easily read instructions even without the colors back then. But right now, if all of today's pins would be black or gray and all normal axles black, it would be very hard to decipher what's going on. I like how much clearer it is now than ever before which pin is used where. And there's a lot of new pins. After all, axle pin 3L, ++o axle pin 3L, +oo pin 3L with pin hole pin 2L with pin hole axle 2L with pin hole All of these are relatively recent. I think it's because of the color coding that designers could create such similar parts, to increase the building options without creating an enormous recognizability problem. So I think you should see the color variety in relation to this - it was either all-black and gray, without the new pins, or it's this. Well, I prefer the current situation, by far. Personally when I create instructions for my MOCs, I even put certain axle lengths in yellow and red nowadays, so you can clearly see the difference between e.g. 9 and 11. I even used yellow 3L axles for the instructions of my [TC7] Enforcer, because that was at the time the Wall-E set came out, which had the first yellow 3Ls, so I thought, well, apparently 3L axles will be yellow now. What I don't like is how the 2L pin with pin hole and the 2L axle with pin hole now start to appear in all kinds of colors. That kinda defeats the purpose, and for what reason? If I had to choose, I know a few larger parts that are in dire need of a few recolors!
  9. And what if you rotate the second worm a quarter-turn? You sure tried that, didn't you?
  10. Not sure if this should be in this topic, but I noticed something interesting about set 41239, which is in the Super Hero Girls theme, called "Eclipso Dark Palace": it has a few Technic pieces in a dark pink colour (probably either Dark Pink or Magenta): the 2x5x7 panels, a #5 angle connector and soft axles (my guess is 12L). The part below the axles could be pin joiners, but that's hard to see. It also has two dark purple 2x3x5 panels, probably the same colour also found in 42069. Not sure how such a set justifies speciallty creating pink Technic pieces, but I find it pretty interesting. https://brickset.com/sets/41239-1/Eclipso-Dark-Palace Edit: probably Magenta. No axle joiners. There are two large pink pillars.
  11. The colors don't really work... I admire your quest to replicate the livery as closely as possible, but I think the scale is too small and the lines are too fine for this to work. Especially because of all the diagonals in the original livery. In Lego form, it just becomes a bit messy, and the end result looks too much like you just used random colors... Don't get me wrong, I think you did great, but I think the problem simply lies in the reference choice. I think next time you can better either design your own colorwork (which has larger surfaces and fewer diagonals), or pick another model, or size up the scale considerably (which you probably don't want to do). The shapes themselves are sculpted pretty nicely, and I do like the original part usage in places, such as the red window piece at the front, and the SNOT in all the various places. Good job on those!
  12. This looks preey nice! I like it if people do those kinds of trucks, and this scale works really well - not too big but enough room for some neat functions. Curious as to how you will fit all the functions. I see you went for 15 studs wide, where I would go for 13 wide for these wheels, but the two extra studs give you a lot of extra room, and it doesn't seem to hurt the looks so far.
  13. Thanks for the kind reactions! Yes, if people are interested, I may do instructions. I keep a digital file anyway, and it's not a huge model. Also it's a nice addition to my "portfolio" of models, I usually don't do tow trucks. Edit: also, yes, I looove this new scale and wheels. In fact, I hardly use the larger 64x20 wheels nowadays :D
  14. Sorry for the long pause, but I often build with pauses. To be honest I'm losing a bit of interest (this can go rather quick with me), so I hope to finish it soon. I'm almost done though, all that remains is the car lift at the end, and figure out some way to add rear lights. Here's the progress right now. I changed the gearing from the M motor from 20:16 to 12:24 which reduces the speed greatly. Some functions are still too fast though, while lifting is a bit slow. It's hard to change that, there's not much room anywhere. I understand that black is not the best color on pictures, so I hope you can see what's going on. This will probably be the last update before finishing. The white Bionicle tooth controls one of the two switchers. It is connected via some liftarms to the switcher. The reason for this is that this way, the roof is free of switches and can therefore use a large panel, viging it a cleaner look. By the way, there's a tiny red "bed"-like thing in the sleeper cabin, and its doors can open too. The winches are connected to each other and to a ratchet mechanism using the rubber 2L beam. It is not driven by the gearbox. One little problem with the winches is that they only run in parallel if the strings are rolled the same way (and have the same length). By the way @steph77, the steering is not my own invention. I used it in my [TC7] Enforcer (Valuable Transport) where I borrowed it from @D3K and reinforced it (which introduced the 1/2 vertical offset). This tow truck has a huuuuge turning circle though. Not surprising given its length, but the steering angle is a bit limited and it has only one steered axle.
  15. After aseeing @agrof's lovely color variations of set 42070, I am starting to understand hwy they went for that otherworldly blue. It's the same with this spring's jet 42066: they want to do a certain type of military model, but they don't want their target audience to lay the link between the model and military activity. So they do it in a color that's as far away from being miliary as possible. A military truck could be black, gray, greenish, brownish, tan, even white, but certainly not light blue.