bonox

nice logo on the rear panel

food grade silicon hose is the stuff to get. i've got a pile of 2.5L axles and some modded steering parts thanks to RosscoPC's formula 1 cars.

based on what the manufacturers suggest, I doubt you'll get much more than 0.75A out of those tiny batteries anyway. http://data.energizer.com/pdfs/522.pdf http://data.energizer.com/pdfs/la522.pdf the lithium one shows a capacity value using a 1A draw, but if you're pulling that kind of current you won't be playing for very long.

Very impressive; Lucio Switch has been looking for something to load his truck. But why do you guys feel a need to put these little micro builds together? You should start making them bigger

i'll be watching it while building Charbels 919 hybrid

don't see anything wrong with that grum. A little context goes a long way

hell, it's way better than the blue of the basic 3L pin. I'd be clamouring for that first!

https://www.trucks.com/2016/06/20/4-cylinder-engines-replace-6-trucks/ "A pair of truck manufacturers are about to breach the wall that has confined four-cylinder diesel engines to smaller commercial-duty truck classes".

nest a pile together like the overlapping plates of an Arrakis Sandworm. (or a caterpiller if you prefer - but a sandworm is much cooler!)

that's popular for making orange 9L

There seem to be a couple of different ways of achieving torque vectoring, but for your "mostly rear wheel drive with a bit of front" doesn't seem to be done anywhere without electronic control. The only mechanical torque vectoring i've seen is a Torsen differential, but it's aiming to act more like a limited slip differential than perpetual difference. The idea of gearing up and down from one motor doesn't work because you have to end up with all axles spinning at the same rate - at least on a hard surface. Friction losses aside, this means a purely mechanical system will end up with the same torque everywhere. Modern TV units use mechanical clutches to allow torque distribution and/or they use braking systems to control not the engine torque delivered to the wheel, but the nett torque the tyre sees. The last way is independent drive, which is only done (as far as i'm aware) by electric motors. There aren't too many production cars with more than one mechanically driving liquid fuel engine. Your only way to achieve this in lego is for two motors that can be geared to the same output speed but have a different torque at that speed. An L and XL with half torque/double speed and one is geared by a factor of 2:1 will not achieve the output you're searching for. If you can get some useful data from Philo's site, you may be able to achieve something if the available motors are sufficiently different, but if the true electric motor inside all of lego's PF series is the same (and only the gearing internally is different) then you'll be out of luck.

it would be relatively easy to get 'correct' tolerances with some proper machining equipment or especially a small NC mill. Obviously you're guessing and it's very much a near enough is good enough approach if the parts work (just like the 3D printed parts) because I doubt anyone has access to TLG's manufacturing tolerances. There are some things to remember though - broaching axle holes will be tricky and you'll need to remember the spot face around every hole you want to put a pin into. If you're planning on free hand drilling a sheet then you may be disasspointed in the outcome, however I would think it's still possible to make simple items like train connecting rods by this method. Making a 20L liftarm with all holes in it would probably be a nightmare.

Hi mnpumar I've just been fiddling so no parts or instructions at present. I'll also probably keep fiddling with it for a while and it'll be busy in the next month going for public display. If there are bits you want photos of i'm happy to oblige. I originally just swapped all the black bits for white and red for blue. The red for blue works perfectly, subject to availability of parts for the truck. The white for black though needs more thought - the underbelly, mudguards and suspension of the trailer, plus the belly and radiator plus insides of the truck are much better off in my opinion remaining black. I also tried trans-clear bricks behind the radiator and I wanted you to get a peek at the stuff under the bonnet, but i wasn't pleased with the outcome. I may revisit this at some point though. And I really should put those headlight dishes on as well :) The axle assembly of the trailer use to have the same rocking/pendular suspension as the original design in this post, with some panhard rods to control the twisting and springs to control the fore-aft rocking, but it was complicated and didn't steer very well on a hard surface. I found a basic rigid box unit works very well which is what you see here. I also got some performance benefit out of putting the middle axle centreline one plate lower than the other two. It looked pretty much the same, but all the load went on the centre axle only and the other two sagged a bit to look like they were on the ground. Well mostly. It steered very nicely, but i ended up not liking the look and i mostly build static models. The final thing is that I built it where I could from light gray parts as that's what the original 5571 uses and i wanted to keep it all in line, but the wheels will probably always be an issue in that regard. Maybe i'll leave a set of rims in the sun for a year and see if I can get them to darken like that last 6x16 plate under the rear deck.

Yes, a thread necro, but the OP requested followup from others making this build and hopefully i've got something to contribute. I wanted more of a realistic frame, so this is based on the working trucks around here, where you have the frame of the trailer, plus some toolboxes, spare wheel racks and a supplementary diesel tank. I also prefer dual wheels and triple axles as we typically run here due to a lot of these being used on poor roads (including dirt). Of course, it's only after posting these that I see i've left the headlights off the prime mover Also, unlike the original plans, this one is quite structural - there are 1x16's crossing the floor of the trailer at loadpoints - the king pin, the supports and two sets over the axle assembly. Consequently you can really pack this one with sand (well, tin cans of food at least) if you want to without causing it to flex too much. Very happy with the colour scheme too - it sits next to Grazi's tow truck in it's original black, so I wanted something a little different.

what's your timeline history like? The last 10 years got a huge pile of connectors for example that never used to exist before that. Are you purist if you only use parts before some particular period? What if you make or modify some piece that turns up in a production set next year? Is your previous solution now null and void? Are you more of a hero if you can use a minimalist parts selection? Do you become a legend if you can make an RC sewing machine using nothing more than 1x2 technic bricks and 4L axes? I make a habit of grinding teeth of old connectors to make smooth x44 units. The reason is that i get get toothed ones for a couple of cents instead of 50-100 times as much for the smooth one. Yes, it's modifying parts, but it still achieves an aim you could achieve by being a purist. Also, regarding your first bullet point since i was one of those involved, how do you get a pulley to spin on a bar? mine are all friction fit into axle holes and you can't get a low friction way of mounting them without slop either, since they are also friction fits into the 1/2 pin or similar.