bonox

an 1985 then 1988 2L SX Liftback. Was interesting to note the little details that changed in the 3 years between the same model. Looked the same, but little things were different, like adding drainage channels around the rear lift struts to stop them rusting. The later one wasn't advertised as having significantly more power, but it would climb a hill in top gear at 110km/h that the previous one would only do in 4th. My next door neighbour was a toyota factory mechanic and had a 1992 GT4 which I was quite envious of, except that he was always working on it and said it was a bit of a dog if you wanted a daily driver without access to cheap factory spares.

that's a fabulous recreation of a car i used to own. A funny stumpy sort of thing compared to the Celica i replaced it with, but it was an absolute go cart that would put smiles on your face whenever you found a twisty road. Thanks for sharing.

excellent seeing models made with mindstorms motors.

That''s fine - just don't complain when the parts weld themselves together. The only other way to get around it is to make the parts (piston and bore) so loose that you won't have much if any compression at low speed. For what it's worth, the start of this almost exactly parallels your description in the first post of the seizing of two parts at high speed with inadequate lubrication. (gets harder to spin, slows down etc etc) This last longer because it's rolling rather than sliding like the piston in the cylinder but the concept is still the same.

there's a reason all high speed moving parts in this world are lubricated and also why "oil-less" compressors don't last all that long. Lubrication isn't just about making parts slide across one another easily - it's also about removing heat, to either keep the dimensions of the parts in spec or to stop the lubricant itself from disintegrating. For amusement and learning though, hit youtube for "stir friction welding" as that's effectively what you're doing to those poor cylinders.

perhaps it's simpler if you understand that databases don't call out new elements, people call out new elements. One of the things people like is to be able to put sets together. If you have a set that requires a certain printed part, then you need to uniquely identify that part rather than just the underlying part shape/colour without the print. That applies whether you're TLG or a seller on a 3rd party site.

I don't have your tow truck in white, but I do have the original 5571 in white and think it looks great. Just need a door sticker :D

Probably a good time to say Thankyou Andrea for a beautiful model. I'm sure there are many more out there than you think, including one being built by this nutter (me) at a LUG show :) Didn't quite get it finished in one go.

hopefully it's just an old stock problem

if i've got parts, i'll build combination of real and virtual. If I have new ideas and don't have the parts, i'll use the digital model to work out what to buy, but I don't always get it right first time in the virtual. Some of the tools in stud.io are helpful in this regard, for example finding things that have limited support. (attached by one stud for example is a useful tool). When building for real and finding things that need to be changed, remodelling the digital model is called 'red pen markups' in the old terminology and can be a bug bear, but needs to be done if you want to follow later or share.

very impressive. The scale is certainly slightly intimidating, but it's really nice to see people tackling the stuff that most people don't with the big cranes - the extended jibs and the Y guy arrrangements. Bravo Sir.

I get the theory, but the (fake) photo shows a stud too big to do that - it's the diameter of the stop ring, not the stud. And I don't need any fingers to count the places where that would be the only solution

more to the point though, what would you use it for? It serves no purpose I can see

i'm not sure there are any - they were incorporated into the instructions for sets that included them, so try looking for those. It's essentially make sure the transmitter is assigned the same channel (from 1 to 4) as the receiver you're trying to control, then move the controls. If you want it to keep going, or want graduated speed control, use the train controller.