grindinggears

I am not too familiar with all these technical words, so my guess that the unimog will have a torque tube with panhard link might be wrong. What I mean is: the new piece with the green arrow allows the axle to swing up/down and twist. This system is stabilized by the ball-connector bar (is this the panhard link?) We'll see how things will turn out when the set is available here, maybe Anio can get it earlier? @dhc6twinotter I am pretty sure that we see here a new U-shaped frame 4x5, you clearly see its end in the back edit: Torque tube mounted axle of a Unimog U1300L from this site: Does someone have a pic of the axle of the real U400?

There might be two new parts in the U400, one gearbox part and one frame, carefully look at this zoom-in of the back of the Unimog: neon-green arrow: There is a round part where an axle comes out, so it might work like a u-joint and maybe it is somehow related to the new hub-reduction parts. orange arrow: A U-shaped frame piece that cannot be part of the H-frame because the pin holes are in other directions. I hope I don't repeat any information here Especially the first part seems very useful to me, as it transfers torque, lets the attached part swing up/down, twist and might even provide gear-reduction. What are your thoughts about them?

Awesome model, the front part looks really strong and very Tatra-like! Maybe you could enhance its performance by softening the suspension. Since you use you're own design on some axles that shouldn't be too hard I hope. But what do you mean with Megablocks? Are you using them in your truck? And what does the 8L Axle with stop there? (picture is below) Torsional suspension?

This is a very nice idea that I haven't seen in any other MOC so far. This will be helpful for many big machines, Thank you!

Well, the most complex part is imo the claw assembly which pushes the film forward 24 times per second by the length of exactly one frame. My starting point for such a thing would be to spin a wheel at 24 rpm that is only connected to the claw mechanism for a short time every revolution. In this time the claw would unlock, the film would get pulled forward by one frame and the claw would lock again. I hope you understand my thoughts, it's really difficult to put such mechanics in words. In the model you have a similar claw mechanism that is not shown in detail but I think the long axle connected to the 40-tooth-gear is a lever that pushes the film forward.

Hi Solscud007, I originally made a post about that projector here: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=55449 So you might want to ask your question there.

peaceman alias Friedemann Wachsmuth posted this nice creation on his blog: Lego Technic Super-8 Movie Projector A fully functional Super 8 Movie Projector I built with Kalle using Lego Technic. The only non-Lego parts are the lens, the reel spindles and the lamp. The projector uses just two engines and is fully featured with automatic feeding, 24 fps, fast rewind and 120m reel capabilities. A decent LED flashlight makes it pretty amazingly bright. Watch the video here: http://vimeo.com/20107617 Are there any other Technic creations that fulfill a practical use? philo has built some scanning and photography bots but apart from that there is almost nothing coming to my mind.

Did you follow Jurgen's instructions for his Ultimate 8043? I had the same problem with my 8043 like you when I modified the bucket to Jurgen's version. The reason is that one U-joint gets bent too much when the dipper is tilted towards the superstructure. Don't worry, this issue is completely normal, U-Joints can't bend by more than ~50 degrees without wiggling. So the solution is to not tilt the dipper that much or to mod the dipper/bucket by yourself. Maybe you can find a solution that's better than Jurgen's hope I could help

Uh, that looks bad. Did you use tap water all the time? I use distilled water with a little bit of alcohol like Timo suggested. We'll see how mine will turn out, I am afraid yours cannot be repaired or does anyone have a solution?

Naturally all Motors have varying speeds, but that makes not a big difference in your case. A differential would be the best solution because it allows the motors to spin with every speed. But housing a differential in a train sounds nearly impossible. So I suggest you to take the easy route: pair two M-Motors directly together so they turn the same driveshaft. This will give you more space to add some details and won't inflict the train's overall performance. If you have more than two M-Motors you should first see which of them fit together best in terms of speed. Use this contraption by Nico71: Power both motors with the same battery box and see which motors have the smallest difference in speed. hope I could help

The 'new' part you need is water. It is not compressable so the piston stays in place when the switch is closed and makes the piston move with the same (slow) velocity no matter which load is applied. <offtopic>I will finish a MOC with working hydraulics in the next weeks.</offtopic>

Wow this one of the most complex models since the FSB001 Bobcat! I was so blown away when I saw it switching to 'skid' steer mode :thumbup: :thumbup:

So you want to build a rubiks cube? This is nearly impossible with Lego at all. On Brickshelf I found this one: The corner pieces have to fit in a circle in three dimensions! Maybe this piece might help you: Honestly I am a bit sceptic whether such a model can be realised with Technic elements

I don't think that is is possible to build a perfect circle but there are many good examples for nearly circular geometry, e.g. this one: http://technicbricks.blogspot.com/2010/02/tbs-techtoc-08-racing-bike.html To get a six-segment-circle you might want to start with two of these parts: Or maybe this one will help you: It might help us to better understand your problem if you could explain it in more detail or with photos. Feel free to send me a PM if you want to contact me in German. I'm curious what you are about to build!

http://www.blokbricks.com/

Congrulations for this huuuuge model! How much parts did you use?(over 20,000?) I can't wait to see further footage.

It works if you move the seat down by one stud! You can see the result here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/59338901@N08/5428749790/

@DLuders The syringes have bigger holes and the tubing has an inner diameter of 3.175 mm which would allow greater speeds of the hydraulics. But I don't see why this should be more appealing to a purist than our equivalent (see number 2 in the very first post, there is NO non-Lego part used apart from water) @AllanP I don't have a small cylinder to test your thesis and it is hard to get one that is new enough to have watertight seals. Maybe I'll get the Unimog this summer then I can try Maybe even a purist can appreciate our hydraulic solution. Until now I have not used any non-Lego items apart from the fluid containment. Using liquid instead of air is not a modification, it simply is using a part in a way that is not obvious at first. Think of the new helicopter 8068 that uses a wheel cover as a propeller. We use a pneumatic cylinder as a hydraulic cylinder. Most important is: You can take the water out of the cylinder and wait a few days until it is completely dry if you are tired of hydraulics. Then it is a pneumatic cylinder again! I know there was a (dutch?) shop selling pneumatic tubing and custom trainwheels. Does anybody remember its name?

I have done further tests this morning with increased water pressure. I have attached more rubberbands to the pressure valve cylinder. When I hang a 4.8 kg weight on it the piston gets pulled out by nearly 1 cm now. 1 cm is the travel that is needed to open the pressure valve so theoretically every cylinder could now build up a pressure of 4.8 kg which should be sufficient compared to the ~4kg max load a LA can move The pressure valve cylinder is an old one and I noticed that at this pressure the inner seal leaked a bit, water dropped out of the top hole. I have to replace that one with a 2010 cylinder. The Motor struggles to build up the pressure for opening the pressure valve for the first time. After helping it a bit it worked fine but I have to solve that problem by gearing it down or using less pressure. The increased pressure made the old pneumatic hoses pop off. The new ones from 8049 cope with the pressure perfectly. Maybe someone else can do a bigger version of that system? I am at my limits because I only have 2 cylinders from 2010 and one pump

I have examined that leak issue when building my own hydraulic system. You can read the full post in the hydraulics thread The result is: As the seals get older their tightness decreases. With a cylinder from 2010 I didn't have a leak. Unfortunately it moves very slow because the holes are so narrow. Maybe you want to consider hydraulics a second time? I understand if you do not.

Great news: It works! This evening I decided to test my hydraulic system (I built a smaller version to spare some parts). It's only powered by a single compressor pump and an M-motor so we need some major testing until we have a concept that can be implemented by everyone. The liquid is distilled water. The system kept tight even when the top seal had to struggle with high pressure. As you see above efferman had some problems with a leaking top seal. I investigated that issue and tried to cylinders: One from the 2003 Backhoe and one from the 2010 Log Loader. The older one kept tight as long as there was only the compressor's pressure applied but some drops of water emerged when I pulled at the piston's rod. Even after I put some grease on it the piston remained leaky. But the 2010 cylinder kept perfectly tight in all situations without any grease! So the age of the seals matters when it comes to tightness. That's nothing new and you could still use the old cylinders for low torque applications or you could only use the bottom part (like in 8421). The pressure regulator from allanp worked very nice. Let's see what happens when I put more rubberbands on it... I have to test now what happens when the water pressure further increases. A second pump would come in handy here but unfortunately I don't have one :(

* sorry for double posting * I have taken apart the excavator and took some photos of the naked gearbox. In the front left the compressor can be seen. Click here to view all photos in my flickr channel in better quality

Really good to go for the 6x6 solution regarding the steering I think that a pneumatic system with some decent pressure will work very good for your MOG. BUT: a hydraulic steering would make you a pioneer in that field because there is only one MOC (Timo's Liebherr LTM 1500) that would use this steering apart from yours. So maybe you still want to go for hydraulics BTW: Thank you very much for keeping us up to date so frequently. nice progress!

Really nice car but I am even more amazed by your driving skills! :thumbup: Your building style is full of innovations! Too bad Youtube blocks the video in my country (I have found a way to get around that barrier but it still upests me) so thank you very much for uploading it to flickr as well. I hope for some cold weather in the next weeks so you can take it on the ice like your previous ice racers

After disassembling my excavator I could use my only compressor piece to build a mockup for a hydraulic system containing these components: compressor 4 valves (only two are used) piston to adjust the working pressure ungeared M-motor to power the compressor more pics in higher quality on my flickr account The system is supposed to sit in a containment that is filled with a liquid about 5 studs high. I had the idea to build a cover plate using these two elements: 1 2 but at first I didn't focus on that. The system has four valves but uses only two of them. One is a pressure release valve which is powered by the piston at the top (credits to allanp for this idea!) The other one can actually be used to power a cylinder. It has a blue lever on top. The system is expandable to as many valves as you like and in a six valve version there would be enough space to contain four compressor pieces. The crucial part now is the choice of the right liquid: silicone oil? pure water? distilled water? I will ask Timo for an advice. He has used distilled water and alcohol for his hydraulic system. And then we will see how it turns out! (The purist in me screams: "No! You could lose your parts for nothing!" But my curiosity is bigger...)