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fred67

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by fred67

  1. I bet the price will be pretty bad, too, although we'll have to wait and see. I think Ideas is working better than they thought it would, and like CMFs (which were half the price when they came out), I think they've started jacking up the prices. I like the birds, for example, but I think the set is overpriced, considering it's just basic parts, mainly just small plates, and it carries no license fees, either. By comparison, the Ecto-1 was a bargain; even the Exosuit, considering the parts are mostly technic and it comes with two figures.
  2. I don't understand the problem. You're looking for the part, and you found it (in tan); so what's the problem? Is it because they don't exist in sets? That happens quite a bit... TLG makes whatever is convenient for TLG to make for it's own displays, sometimes those odd colors make it out to other people, including some BL sellers.
  3. It's not surprising that 13 is leading the voting... every time a new series comes out, a lot of people think it's the best one... until the next one comes out. Whatever's new and fresh, I guess. To me, they've been so hit and miss that one series doesn't really stand out to me as being the "best." I voted for 10, though; I like the sea captain, and the seagull and the dog with the "trend-setter" are great accessories; Medusa was an awesome figure, and even the generic figures (like "Grandpa") seem really useful to me. But really, it's only by a thin margin, and only if I'm pressed to choose.
  4. Ok; not meaning to hijack a thread, but instead of posting a new one I'm going to whine a bit... I have so many pieces I don't know what to do with and doubt I will ever use. I post some things on the pay-it-forward thread occasionally, but don't understand why people don't want free LEGO. But I just this past fall went through a huge process to resort all of my LEGO to, largely (not entirely) have it grouped into the Stanley organizers - each color gets at least one organizer (depending on how many pieces of that color I have); yellow has one big one... black has one big one and two small ones. White has one big one, one small one, and a lot of overflow into other containers for bricks I have a lot of. So I go through all of this, and really for the first time decide I'm going to break up complete sets for various reasons (I previously have always kept them together, not buying for pieces). Well, I bought a couple of super hero sets, and after all my work of organizing things, I end up with: That's just from one set. I can't imagine ever using these pieces, but they seem like useful pieces, so for posterity I try to work them into my collection, but that's seven new, distinct pieces that don't match anything else I have. I'm tempted to have a bin just for oddball pieces, but then I'm afraid if one of these things ever becomes useful, it'll be completely out of sight/out of mind. On top of that, I wanted the set for the minifigures, and batman came with two types of cape and two heads. So now I have an extra batman head and cape. So what do you do with these pieces? It's easy to sort "bricks," but when you get do these really detailed, almost one-off parts, and you start collecting a large number of them, what then? This happens when you build the sets, too - as little oddball pieces often get left over (I don't know how many bucket handles I have... with no extra buckets to go with them). So what do you do? Since I have the day off today, here's some pictures of my sorting: Shelves of Stanley organizers. by FredJH, on Flickr Shelves of Stanley organizers. by FredJH, on Flickr Trans in small Stanley organizer. by FredJH, on Flickr White in small Stanley organizer. by FredJH, on Flickr 4 Akro Mills and one Stack On. by FredJH, on Flickr Hard to see, but the bottom has three Akro-Mills units, front to back; the top has one Stack On in back, and one AM in front... this is the problem I have with "storage density," and why I'm weaning away from these, despite the fact they look good and are easy to find pieces in. Since I only have room for two, with several of those units in behind, shelves of Stanley containers gives a much higher storage density that is easier to get to... just pull out the labeled organizer. I have to delicately move the Akro-Mills units around to get to the ones in back without spilling anything. If one of those were to tip over... someday I'd like to build deep cabinets that hold these on the doors as well as the wall. So imagine you open the two doors of a cabinet (and the doors fully swing open), and you'd get access to four of these.... and it would only take up the wall space of two. Akro Mills flora. by FredJH, on Flickr Partial LEGO overflow. by FredJH, on Flickr Build a minifigure storage. by FredJH, on Flickr Build a minifigure. by FredJH, on Flickr Build a minifigure. by FredJH, on Flickr
  5. There's a bunch of threads; it's easier for me to say to google "lighting site:eurobricks.com" to get a bunch of hits. IMO, there's three choices to lighting: LEGO Only (PF and LEGO light bricks) Third party, like lifelites and liteupblock. DIY, buying wire, LED, some power source, resistors, and soldering it all together. These are the most flexible in reverse order. DIY you can wire exactly how you want, but it takes more time and effort (but likely less money, if you already do any kind of electronics); I lit my winter village with lifelites and also used one of their elite kits with (somewhat) programmable bricks to light my "monsters of rock" stage with flashing lights. PF requires the battery box somewhere in your model... if you're doing something like a minifigure scale X-Wing, it simply is a non-starter. Even anything short of a UCS scale ship would have a hard time hiding a battery box inside. Lifelites has several battery options... including an AA battery pack, or watch battery driven elite bricks.
  6. Could those of you who posted in the CMF trading thread update your posts (including if you're no longer interested in trading)? Some are very old and obviously completely out of date - it makes perusing the thread worthless when most of the posts haven't been updated in years. Just a simple request... if you don't want to trade anymore, just edit your post to clear it out and say "no longer trading" or something?
  7. Since this thread has seen a lot of activity again, I thought I'd share the latest on my collection. If you see my signature, you see a link to microscale modular castles; these are great tests for this sort of thing, because the walls are capped with 1x1 cheese slopes as merlons on the battlements. While I'm not actively working on it, the modular sections have remained assembled in a plastic container in my closet. We're talking hundreds of cheese slopes... here's one assembled walled city for explanation: More detail on the wall sections: I've looked at all of the assembled ones... sitting in my closet, which is in a bonus room over my garage, up against the ceiling and unheated in the winter, it's subject to cold in the winter, and heat in the summer (not terrible, but outside the temperatures you'd normally keep your home... way outside). I know this is baffling for a lot of people... but I still have NOT ONE SINGLE CRACKED cheese slope. I think I've only ever had one or two bricks that cracked EVER, and I have well over 200k pieces in my collection. I've had broken bionicle pieces, but those are a different story. I'm not saying you guys didn't get screwed... and perhaps my bricks are older, slightly different formula or something, but given the age of this thread, I don't think that's necessarily the only explanation.
  8. Hey, sspeck05, welcome to EB - you need 10 posts in order to get private messages. there's another thread here, where you post what you have and what you want in a detailed list, then in this thread you can (more or less) post whenever you update your post in that other thread... so this thread gets messy, the other one supposedly stays neat. You can edit posts, so when you make a trade, or add more figures to your lists, you edit your original post in that thread, and then make a note of it with a new post in this one. I would love to do a trade - I have lots of older figures - but participate in a few other threads and get some posts and then we can talk in PMs.
  9. I stand corrected.
  10. Not too big on the disc world set, but the science one looks great... another Alatariel win. I don't mind it being all female, but I'd like it more if she mixed it up. I know there's an agenda there, but I also feel like she made her point with the last one.
  11. I can only think of two times where I was actually missing a piece, and one time where I had an extra of one color while missing the color I needed (and I went through the instructions three times, convinced I must have used the wrong piece somewhere... but it also, the way it was being used, would have been really obvious). Five pieces? I have a real hard time with that. I'm so sure when I can't find a piece that it's my fault, I've even crawled on hands and knees around my coffee table to double check; I take all the bags out of the box, and put them back in the box after opening and putting them on the table so that I can pull them back out again to see if a piece got stuck.... and it's almost always the case that I find it somewhere.
  12. I think that's the crux of the matter... the parts, or sets of parts, are not ones people who backed the kickstarter are waiting for. While you wouldn't sell inventory you're obligated to send to the initial investors, you also wouldn't sit on inventory that you couldn't use to fulfill the orders to the primary investors. I'd be willing to be that, if they are actually selling some of the things you ordered, they are not selling everything you ordered, and that they've held back from their store the track they do have for you while waiting for the rest of it from the suppliers.
  13. I only backed metal... now I may go help ME's "cash flow" to get some plastic... still need to display my sets, after all.
  14. PAB at the LEGO Store, or S@H? The former is probably the cheapest way to get new bricks if they have what you want; the latter is probably the most expensive. Otherwise, especially if you need certain colors, it's got to be bricklink.
  15. Agree with Yooha, but as for "sexy witch," leave my wife out of this.
  16. The only "problem" I could see was on Green Lantern, and even then it's not something I'd ever think to complain about in a million years.
  17. I agree... value is always important; it could be a terrible set with 300 pieces for $2, and it would still be a great value, or it could be an absolutely amazing set with 100 pieces for $200 and be a terrible value. Value is important, even if largely subjective... but then all reviews are subjective.
  18. If you do call them, offer to send a picture of the problem. ...And pointing out that a question had already been answered is not being a jerk.
  19. But the review didn't violate terms - there was no foul language, no disparaging remarks, no spam... as far as language is concerned, it was completely benign; I think he's right to be annoyed about it being deleted.
  20. Brick, Modified Octagonal 2 x 2 x 3 1/3 What I want to know is how they did the ground a few pages later; are all those 1x1 tiles just loose?
  21. Yes, that's true, but it's not that different than doing some snot techniques vertically... but honestly, what we're talking about is a system with 1:1 bricks to make something like architecture easier, I don't imagine you'd need or want to mix in regular bricks, and where you would - like a roof, or toping something off with tiles, it wouldn't be an issue.
  22. Agree with both previous posts... and if they can make the same amount of profit with half as much work, it's worth it to them. It's not always about volume, which is why people aren't understanding the problem with raising prices despite rising sales... they often think prices should go down when volume increases.
  23. No, I mean a standard LEGO Brick, not duplo or larger, that is 1:1 (or a 1x1 brick would be 1:1:1).... something that works with the standard LEGO size. The stud size exactly matches the current regular bricks. "Compatible" never meant you could directly attach any particular bricks together - you can't directly top a quadro stud with regular bricks; if I'm not mistaken, you'd use a 2x2 duplo brick, which you can then top with four 2x2 regular bricks... which you can then top with these imaginary 1:1 bricks, if that's what you really wanted to do. In only means that there is a way they can attach... if it's through other size bricks, it still counts. Conversely, topping regular bricks with duplo, for example, works just fine - so it would work with the imaginary bricks, too, because the studs are exactly the same. Think of a standard 1x1 brick, but made shorter.
  24. As seen in this thread, you can brick-build a 90 degree crossover without modifying any LEGO pieces.
  25. I actually think system compatible 1:1 pieces would actually be pretty successful... but modulex was more "cute" than anything else for most of us.
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