aol000xw

Oh, nice to know. Both my RCX most probably need to be reflashed. Last time I checked, my 1.0 looked dead.

Now that you are done with the Logitech cable I don't think Ubuntu will have much problem with the adapter. In fact it could be worse that needing an adapter... A few years ago I got another mindstorms set because my new Notebook did not have serial port. So my almost never used RCX 1.0 got a younger twin so they could gather dust together, I think I never used the USB tower But I always kept everything in boxes, well protected in a closet. So I got two RCX, a USB Tower and... no cables. All the cables rot, the plastic or rubber protecting the copper just felt in pieces. I salvaged the connectors and I am in the process of getting a few meters of suitable cable.

Thanks for the LXF. Yesternight I got something like that working albeit with half width liftarms partially inmovilizing it (removing the block inside the differential or 2.5 axles are needed) but I am not completely satisfied yet. What I didn't think of was on putting gears on top and bottom, it may be worth a try. Thats what I tried to accomplish with that design with all the gears. Not sure if I got enougth room for that.

If no solution is found besides what has already discussed I'll try to fit de differential behind the rear wheel as in the previous picture and if I fail at that then i'll use a live axle. But I haven't given up yet.

You are right swing arm is narrower, but as non independant suspension it gives very bad wheel contact when the suspension works so it is a last resort. Tyler design is very nice but I don't want all the weight supported by one single axle at any point. Btw Tyler's design is this: (I can't see if there is a differential in there)

This is my best so far, and it doesnt look good.

Well that makes me feel less stupid I want to use these.btw.

isn't that the same?

Hello, I suck at LDD but... given something like this is it possible to make it 2 studs narrower? 1 stud seems possible using half width beams instead of the beam frame for the differential. Otherwise I could mount somehow those ball cup supports 1 stud closer each, but then the cardan ball with the universal joint needs to be 1 stud shorter right? Whatever, can't figure this out, the aim is to keep indepent suspension, differential and 3 pin hubs while making it 2 studs narrower.

I checked mine again and just realized it isnt half bad, 06860

As the main principle behind all this is the relation between angular velocity and linear velocity determined by radius it is posible to make something similar with disks, albeit less eficient as forces are perpendicular. Instead of tilting a sphere between "wheels" a disk moves transversal to those "wheels". Given a fixed rpm to the input shaft, If the disk moves away from the "input wheel" and closer to the "output wheel" the disk angular speed lowers reducing lineal speed on output and increasing torque. When the disk is centered in relation to both "wheels" the ratio is 1:1

I am more interested in when than on what (budget management) So when can I expect the first 2014 models to be available, Is it usually first quarter or second quarter of the year?

I wonder if a sphere without an axle keeping the alignmet can make the automatic CVT function or if it won't tilt correctly. My guess is than given an apropiate mount for the sphere, it will spin like crazy losing some torque but still work. If that is true glass marbles can have amazing traction on rubber (good for torque) and be very slippery on ABS (low friction on mount).

Right!! I noticed something was amiss but did not identify what, the faucet kept distracting me. Random internet picture anyways.

8860

Yeah "Logitech formula" made everything clear. Oh and just in case.... If I recall correctly force feed back does not work without drivers because the Formula force uses an old protocol previous to the the standards used nowadays. Also Logitech did not publish a proper version of the drivers for 64 bits. So if you like your wheel, XP or W7 32 bits are your only options unless you don't care about the force feed back, of course.

The problem is that in most CVTs friction is key for torque transmision, Friction directly of the components or indirectly througth inmersion in a fluid and in this case, the concept itself its mecanically complicated, way more than two cones....

Think of it as a disc than spins at a constant rpm. The angular speed is constant, but your lineal speed varies depending on the track you are. Slower when you are closer to the center, faster when you are far, Now look at the sphere and think of it as a disc,, The sphere moves to compensate differences of speed between both surfaces, but it also transmits force (speed) from one to the other, trying to find the equilibrium, when its axis is perpendicular. If its equatorial axis that in neutral is horizontal tilts, on one side forces a faster speed and a slower in the other Well, if I understood the principles correctly...

Man I hope the adapter you are using with the Lego isn't the one that came with the Logitech cause it does not work that way. That is not a Serial to USB adapter. The Logitech already has USB support, it simply changes how it works based on whether it detects that is USB or COM connected.

Oh, didn't know! Those are nice! but why so narrow? At the beggining with rivets I wasn't sure, but with the screws this is costing me next to nothing and can be undone with ease, so I will give it a try. And somehow I like the looks

I'll quote myself I know that solution, but I felt it a bit weak, there is way more rubber here, is stronger, and somehow protects a bit the treads from terrain. On the other hand I need shorter screws, 1 or 2mm and the treads become 1 stud wider (half on each side), so it is not a direct replacement.

The problem is that as far as I know a serial to USB converter needs a driver. The OS needs to know that a COM port exists there. Without that no matter what you plug, it wont work.

Hello Since I came here looking for third party tyres I can't stop whinning about them but now I want to go beyond that and I whine about Lego treads. I love them but hell those are Lego eels. How to improve it's grip? Some use rubber bads, or gromments, or some other not so good solution. Grommets look like the best option but the new tread design has only two holes and I don´t think it can get the kind of grip I am looking for. So Here is my approach and before I apply them to a few dozen treads I want some input Disclaimer: No treads where damaged on this mod. Well there is some rubber, a couple rivets; I think you can start gettin de idea The head of the rivet will fit in the deceased rim of the hole but wont pass througth it. The washers are for the other side. Aplying too much forcre on then rivet will make it cut trougth the layer of rubber, so it must be tight but must be cut by hand, and filed afterwars... Cut by hand, you can see where some filing is needed. Well it did not work. Even after cutting the excess of ruber the washer gets in the way and causes some friction. The head protudes a bit too much and I hate rivets. Screw that!! The nut does not cause friction. The exact amount of torque can be applied so the rubber wont break It's easy to do and can be easily repaired in the field The screw head does not protude. Heavy duty Using an old inner tube as rubber source this is cheap! Ok I did not test it. It is just a concept. So what do you think guys? Edit: Before running out of screws.... I need to trim some rubber bits, but the screws don't touch the gear. Later I'll get some more screws and finish it.

So the balls are prisioner between the lime connectors and rotating like ball bearings? Edit: Ok now I see how it works, it's genius. Just an idea.... All rubber for increased friction. The inner wheel needs free movement so something with round hole instead of that red hub. Don't have anything at hand at the moment. Two of these one infront of each other, with some frame putting some presure on the big wheels so they keep 6 of the small "spherical" ones, prisioner. I bet one stud of separation between the big wheels, so a liftarm can provide half stud of support for the axle of each half. The small gray axle may need a bush on each side, to account for the wheel not being an sphere. Movement range and so ratio are limited.as it isn't a complete sphere. Needs some development but I think it might work.

I felt sad when I read your post, and then sadder when my inner vulture started eyeing the corpse