Rumpelmuck

You can download a bunch of sets from Bluebrick's Homepage. Alternatively you can search e.g. Brickshelf for some additional pics and gifs incl. XMLs. The help file will guide you to add new parts to the bluebrick library. Hope this helps. Cheers! Thomas

:cry3: :cry3: Store Wiesbaden closed end of 2014

Cute and great!!!

Thanks to all for the advices. I didn't expect to get a proper working model and I like to improve and optimize things. I already took a look at Jason's flckr pages and got a lot of hint's. So still a lot of work! Hopefully it will do it's first run on a show in June her in Germany. And again my respect to jayhurst's work!!!

Hi Folks! I just started to build the "Big Boy" according to Scott Dee's instructions (http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=533320) During first test I encountered some problems on standard LEGO curves. I can't imagine I would be the only one trying to solve these problems. So hopefully there are some suggestions around.... 1. Front drive rod sticks on back drive cylinder antenna foot (pics are on my brickshelf gallery) http://www.brickshel...y/rod_stuck.jpg I replaced the antenna by a technic axle 4L with stop to prevent sticking on the antenna foot. Unfortunately this led to my second problem 2. Front drive rod sticks direct on back drive cylinder http://www.brickshel...Boy/rod_cyl.jpg You'll see the replaced antenna but the 5L technic axle and the cylinder cause again sticking of the end of the rod. Til now I have no idea how to solve that - to be honest - minor problem. Usually that problem doesn't really prevent from driving the loco. 3. Front rod bumps the front wheels http://www.brickshel..._bump_front.jpg I replaced the axle by a shorter one (accord. to instr. 6L replaced by 5L). I wonder if there are more fixes for that impressive loco and the detailed and very clear instruction - credits to Scott and of course JAYHURST!!! Chapeau!!! Please excuse some language errors. I'm not a native speaker but hopefully my thoughts came through and there are some hints, suggestions or advices to achieve a smooth drive of that "Big" MOC. Thanks in advance! Thomas

I grew up within the blue aera and I started with the "monster" 113. In the late 60's my parents gave me a complete 12V layout with 721 as x-mas present. After my dark ages I tried to reactivate those beautiful sets and during the www search of missing parts the virus TRAIN infected me again........... Now I'm collecting the exclusiv Train sets, i.e. Emerald, Maersk, HE

LEGO thank you for saving money this year!!!

Try "Wanted Lists"

I use liquid rubber. You can buy it in any stationary shop. It's a glue editors using to fix a news layout with preprinted news articles. (pls. excuse my bad english :-( ). Big advantage: You can remove it without any remains.

Agree! As you will become more familiar with LDD go for MLCad (based on LDraw). IMHO more flexibility but less easy to use as LDD.

Did you already check this idea? http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=501302

Strange! In Germany it actual seems to be a general issue. At 1000steine.de there are several threads claiming canceled orders. I totally agree with TheLegGodt that in times of enormous processing power the dismatch of online shop IS and background reality mustn't appear! In my eyes totally missmanagement or weak Operation Management.

BTW: The rc stuff is powered by 9V

Right now, it works again. THX

I got a DNS error! Does anybody knows more Details? THX Thomas

Hi, a drop of oil placed at the sponge on top is all it needs for a couple of years. After that, attach the wheels and try to turn them gently by hand. If that works connect a power supply by approx. 3Volts (e.g. 2 Batteries) to the motor. The motor should start working - maybe with some noise. The noise should decrease over time. If you recognize the decrease go for full power, i.e. 4,5V I got 2 of them back to life with that procedure. And they are pretty strong!! Let me know if it works! Cheers Thomas

I'll be there tomorrow and sunday

Perfect. Copy that! Thanks!

Great work! Looks very nice. Your layout idea inspired me for a small exhibition. I don't know why,but maybe I'm too stupid to post a link . Look at brickself.com for a folder called "MEC Hadamar" Cheers Thomas

Hello to all! For some reason I'm no longer able to post a link. The Popup window occurs and I can put in my link but nothing happens if I push the"OK" button. Any advise???? Tanks

I tried to put the switsch in the rear but didn't manage it. Either the IR Receiver didn't fit or the battery pack collided with the Switch. :-( Do you have any pics?

Here's a pic how I managed to put all necessary items the font loco. Any ideas to optmize to put in the nice Lady again?

Tanks a lot for your replies. I'll think I should go for Option 2a. How do you power the lights in the second loco?

Hi Folks, maybe that topic has been discussed somewhere else, but searches here, youtube and other forums wouldn't led me to the proper results . I'm thinking of the best way to power two HE 10233. Basically there are severeal ways to do so with PF: 1. 1x train motor (88002), 1x IR receiver (8884), 1x battery pack (88000) For 2x HE it may be a little bit less power. It shall be moving but at low speed. Agree? 2. 2x train motor (88002), 1x IR receiver (8884), 1x battery pack (88000), 1x polarity switch (8869), 2x extension cord (8871) Extension cord is used to lead the power through the entire Train, poalrity Switch to change driving direction of the second motor. More power should drive the train faster but also will shorten the time until the batteries/rechargebles are empty. 3. Most expensive solution: 2x train motor, 2x IR receiver, 2x battery box Due to the two battery boxes the polarity switch is not needed and also the extension cords are obsolete. But what will happen, if the 2 Receiver will get different signals!?!?!?!?! So, what do you think? Cheers Thomas