*thomas*

I do feel a bit stupid now: I didn't see the additional info on Bricklink.

Hi all I'm building some easy mocs based on RC base plates. I have a spare RC motor and controller, but would need a base plate. My own base plates all have a black switch, but there's on for sale that has a red switch. Will it work with my controllers? What's the story behind these? I'm tempted to buy one, because it also has a larger opening to feed a power cable trough, making it suitable to use a second motor for heavier trains. Cheers Thomas

Thanks, JopieK. On other alternative I jst found, is this windscreen (76796). I could stack three on top of eachother. I'm wondering if I could get away with a MOD of this front end... Only downside is that this specific windscreen does not come in trans-clear.

Hi all It has been a very long time since I have started a new topic. I'm still working on a train project that I've started over a decade ago and am building around a French/TEE-themed era. There's one train that has always captured my attention due to it's design, and that is the X2770 / RGP 1 from the SNCF. I'd like to try and MOC such a train set, but can't get my head around how to create the front end in 6 or 7 wide, esp the sloped front. If someone would be able to give some pointers/help, that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Thomas

Maybe it has been mentioned before, but one of this biggest issues is the use of minifigs by other companies. Being it either original lego figs or counterfeit items.

I don't dislike it. I think it would look good with the current trainstation.

The hideout would also make a great addition to the harbour. It could even be used as a gatekeepers office to access the cargo area.

I'm wondering why you don't like it? I'm happy that they included a smaller ship and invested quite some bricks in surrounding structure/real estate, reminding me of the early 90s harbour sets.

The harbour set has a strong 90s vibe to it. Love it!

The reason I'm not using a 9 volt light brick is because I can't make it fit into the front of the 7745 train...

Thanks for the input, guys. I was afraid it wouldn't be as easy as choosing different connections. The diode bridge is a good idea, but I'm building this train for my 5 year old son so it will add complexity and fragility (hence why I choose to use an old RC base/remote). I think I will add a PF battery box and feed the LEDs with constant current.

I know I'm reviving an old thread, but seems worthless to start a new one. Yesterday I tried to power PF light from an RC battery box. I made my own wire using 9V on one end and PF on the other only using the 2 inner connections on the PF cable (C1 and C2 in the picture). The lights work, but only when the train goes in one direction (so when the receiver switches polarity, the lights turn off). How can I make the lights stay on when the train goes both ways? Or do I need the specific LEGO cable?

I have to admit I'm starting to like this set, but the engine remains and eye-soar. I've watched a few reviews and was baffled by the lack of quality control. What intrigued me even more was the fact that it is already available as a counterfeit on many chinese websites.

Agree with what you said. That's what I'm doing. I haven't bought a single LEGO set, let alone a LEGO train set in quite some time because other companies seem to understand that there is a market for brick-build-trains. What they do is offer trains, tracks, buildings etc which seems logical, but brings me back to my initial question: why is LEGO producing trains and why can't they stick to a certain scale.

Don't get me wrong: so am I and apart from the locomotive, I really like the design (much over the original Ideas submission). But imagine you are a LEGO-trainfan, but very bad ad making a MOC (like I - and many others - are): what do I do with this set? It won't run properly trough R40 curves, it will look akward combined with any other trainset (apart from the croc) and who knows when LEGO will release something that goes along with it.