Duq

That's one crazy contraption! Well done on the model. Next version in fewer colours maybe? Is there anything in place to stop the cylinder slipping? If it did it would no longer line up with the track.

Nice model with some interesting details. How does it run through corners though? You've got quite an overhang from the flanged drivers.

Apart from the speed issue there is another problem using the PF train motor with the steam drivers: the distance between the axles is fixed and too long for steam engine models. Here is the drivetrain of my BR65: This obviously won't fit your 0-6-0 but it might give you ideas. I'd also suggest taking a look at this brilliant little steamer by Holger Mathes:

Looks nice. Looking forward to pictures of the brick built version. Do you have other models?

I own none and I want none. I really don't see what the big fuss about monorail is every time.

And then beside that nice tiny 2x2x2 motor all you need to hide are a 4x4x4 receiver and 4x8x4 battery pack... Still, I'm hopeful we'll see new PF motors in the not too distant future.

I understand why the train sets are sold the way they are, with track and PF elements. A ridiculous part of their turnover (forgot the exact figure but I think it's over 50%) is made in the run up to christmas. What you want under the tree is a set that has it all. However, I do wonder if they'd sell more trains if they were cheaper and came without the PF parts. They'd need to sell PF upgrade packs in the same toy shops then to keep things simple. The upgrade pack would contain battery box, train motor, receiver, controller and lights. That way you could buy a push train or, with only one extra purchase, a remote controlled train.

There's also Cale Leipharts solution: fix the motor to the bogie: IMG_3553 by Cale Leiphart, on Flickr B&O Em1 19 by Cale Leiphart, on Flickr

I don't own that many sets: 4512 Cargo train 7939 Cargo train 10020 Santa Fe Super Chief 10205 My Own Train, Large black with tender 10194 Emerald Night 10219 Maersk freight train Out of those only Emerald Night and Maersk are still built up. Current MOCs: NS (Dutch Railways) 6400 cargo diesel (9V) Baldwin AS-616 diesel (9V) 2x NS Locomotor 'Sik' (no motor) DB (German Railways) Köf II (Power Functions) NS Post train (9V) + car NS MDU 'Plan U' or 'Red Devil', 3 carriages (9V) BR70 2-4-0 Steam engine (tank engine, no motor) BR23 2-6-2 Steam engine with tender (no motor) BR65 2-8-4 Steam engine (tank engine, PF) Amsterdam tram (9V) 2 gondolas 2 hoppers

I think a train book is an excellent idea! It's about time there's a follow up to Jakes book from 2004. I will probably buy it anyway, whatever the price but I think it's hard to ask people what they would pay for a book up front. It'll depend on number of pages, size, print quality, paper quality... Where can I sign up to contribute?

One of the models in set 10183:

It has to be the Maersk for me. The Santa Fe was an amazing set when it was released, but the shape never really did it for me. The Maersk engine is an evolution of the BNSF and wins hands down. The proportions look better (though still way too small for a minifig), the colour scheme is more interesting (not because it's Maersk blue; any light blue would do) and it's got more details.

For all 9V motors check out Philo's website for all specs you need: http://www.philohome.com/motors/motorcomp.htm

Tried Amazon? http://www.amazon.co.uk/Inkjet-Creative-Stickers-Glossy-Sheets/dp/B001VSQUZ4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1305749304&sr=8-2

It's a nice set. A brick built boat would be nice but also expensive - remember the target audience! I think it's good to have a different size hull. The previous ship was the large freight ship, this year we're getting a little coaster. The only thing I don't get are those bulges on the sides... It's nice to see a new version of this childhood favourite: The truck looks good too. I'm with the other reviewers on the raised quayside though, that's a real bummer.

In Holland we had a similar shunter, designed for ease of use: These had 50hp and like the Köf they were usually operated by staff other than the qualified train operators. I'm tempted now to build a yellow cousin for my red Köf...

I've yet to come up with something decent myself but these two are the best I've seen sofar: Both are by Karwik, on Flickr.

I like the detailling on the roof, and the graffiti on the side is a nice touch. Unfortunately very realistic - I hate graffiti on trains... The front of these engines is notoriously difficult to do in Lego with all those angles. Yours is not a bad effort but it feels like the windows are too tall in proportion to the rest of the front.

It's always appreciated if you show what you've tried sofar yourself...

No. The cab is 8 wide as you can clearly see in this picture: BR-80_Power-Function-Steamer_7 by holgermatthes, on Flickr

Yeah, that BR80 is annoyingly clever, isn't it? It is 8-wide though, with a 6-wide boiler. That doesn't suit every loco.

Totally agree! There's no better way to learn than by making mistakes and that's the one thing children are no longer allowed to do. But that's a discussion for another time... Oh, and I've had 220V on my fingers more than once. Not pleasant. Yes, PF is flexible but the big problem with PF and steam engines is the amount of stuff you need to hide inside; the battery, receiver and motor.

Nice shunter! Have you thought about adding a third axle under the rather large overhang?

Pulling a non-powered motor will not work. The train wheels have rubber rings so either you're dragging rubber along the tracks or you're trying to drive the motor from the wheels. Either way it's going to take a lot out of the performance of the working motor. As suggested above you could modify the design of your trains to make it easy to change the channel. Another option is to have them on the same channel but have one on the blue control and one on the red. Then link the control wheels on the controller (with gears or a chain) so you can control the two outputs on one channel together. It's still no guarantee that the motors will run at the same speed because of the way the controller works; it's not sending "speed 4" but it's sending "speed +1" or "speed -1". If one of the motors misses one of the commands they'll be out of sync until the train is stopped (or until the other motor misses a command).

The drive shaft with the universal joints in the roof is a stroke of genius!