cptkent

I had noticed that my R120 was a little out. 1/4 circle started in one place didn’t end where it should have (according to the plans). It is good to know this may be the issue, otherwise I may have gone crazy trying to figure out where things were amiss! Not a difficult fix I imagine, and otherwise I’m very happy with it.

Thanks for the link. It was down a couple of months ago and came back. Hopefully it will again.

Hi all, I went looking for some l-draw parts for custom track parts (r120, r104, etc) and found a link to some on l-gauge.org - the site seems to be down, does anyone know why, and/or who runs it? - does anyone else have a copy of these l-draw parts? Thanks Ps ldraw seems to be my best alternative, I know there are libraries for bluebrick but I can’t get that to run in my Mac.

(For me) the compelling part is, it’s a more complete ‘system’. More curve options, more switches, more straights, etc. I can’t wait. An added bonus is that it uses metal rails. I can use these for backward compatibility, power pickup for PF models (and save the battery space) or just because I like the look! Is there a significant cost difference between quality injection molded tracks with metal and the same tracks without metal? I have no idea (although I don’t see a big RRP difference between the versions Lego sold.) I’m sure Michael has done his research on the pros and cons of metal before making his choice. Was there any mention of crowd funding, or is he just going ahead?

I noticed that earlier as well. I’m very excited and I wish the team all the best. I can’t wait to replace my ME Models tracks, and get some larger radius tracks.

Just straight only was all I thought. With straight you only need one piece / one mold. With curves you need inner and outer lengths, you have to pick a radius, etc. I tried ME Models too, so I’m aware of the problems with curved tracks in multiple parts, and I’d rather not go there again. (Although I’m sure if ME had a product the quality of the Bricktracks parts, ½ of my issues could have been avoided.)

Short straights will be handy, all lengths. R104 switches even more so. When I get the time in a couple of weeks I'll have to work out what I need..... On a side note, double straights (for a smoother ride) and R72 (for my own selfish needs) would be handy also... EDIT I wonder if a 'double straight' can be done as just a single rail, and we provide sleepers / ballast etc ourselves?

Slim to none. But I wish they'd so something similar - an 'mini' Emerald Night. Call it the Emerald Dawn. Perhaps a 1-2-1 version, no coal tender. (Buy 2 to get enough parts for an EN). Carriages different, but matching. That would preserve the EN second hand market, let people by their own, and allow the rest of us to get more carriages!

I'm craving a monorail, but too tied up with my Xmas train at the moment. (ME models tracks for R72 loop, on a wood base around the tree - it's complicated.). Maybe next year a Christmas monorail....

eBay? What was the postage??? I've got a piece of track about 3' long. It's not going anywhere!

Nah. Just checking you haven't taken up Megablocks or Meccano or Macrame....

Just giving this topic a bump. In case anybody has any news?

Hi, I've tried to follow the PF threads as they evolve, but still need help with a question: If I pull the 'm motor' out of the new PUP bat mobile (76112) can I use it with the new battery box and controller, like any other M motor. What restrictions would I face? I am building a small shunter - no room for an IR controller, and want to use the PUP M motor and PUP battery box only. Thanks

Hi, I'm looking for a smaller alternative to the traditional PV battery box. Has anybody used part number 4760c01 (Small 9V battery box) with PF motors before? https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=4760c01#T=C Thanks David

My tracks arrived this morning. Very happy with the product, price, shipping. Many thanks to @coaster for providing us with expansion options.

I’m disappointed the switches didn’t get up this time, but I just ordered some R56 & R120 Not that I need it (though it certainly will be used) but I think that any extra support for bricktrcks.com, the only place I see injected tracks being made, can’t hurt. I’m looking forward to getting some brictracks - keep it up coaster! (And bring on the 9v ;-)

All good points. I backed it because I wanted it (more than needed it!). I thought the price was reasonable, given the parts involved. A single turnout consisted of 5 parts (turnout, switch stand, 2 curves and a straight). I hope that something can be done, going forward. I think these would really contribute to my layout, and I'm hoping that every product coaster adds to his inventory, provides reward and encouragement to go forward and do more.

100k was ambitious, nothing wrong with that. But I think the main reason it wasn’t reached wasn’t because of the size of the goal, but the size of the audience - I suspect there’s fewer real train fans out there than we realise. Does anybody have an idea as to how many people are really active with Lego Trains? My own layout is a hybrid. I have one loop in 9v, the remainder in PF. Which limits 9v trains to half the layout, but that’s the best I can do. Coasters PF switch would have worked nicely in the PF section. I'd take anything in 9V as well.

My railroad doesn’t have a name - yet. My town is Hada. The name come from adage I once heard, that places are named after what was once there, but has since been replaced by a town, such as: - Forrest (used to have Forrest) - Sunny meadows (used to have...) - Deer Park (used to have....) - Palm Springs (used to have....) so I am taking note of the other Lego towns that exist, for use on some of the Train and Town signage around Hada. Even my fictional town can’t stand in isolation ;-)

Yeah I thought of screwing, after ‘splatman’ mentioned double sided tape. Gluing is less flexible (the route would be somewhat permanent), but you could easily detach the tracks. Screwing is a little more permanent (if I need to use the tracks elsewhere for a while it’s harder to do so) and puts holes in the boards (not that glue is much better). There may be merit in the tape option, but I’ve usually found it doesn’t stick well enough. Decisions, decisions....

Thanks, A different design for a different purpose, I guess. I don't intend a full layout like yours, just a loop I can use to run occasionally (I have another layout out the 'shed'). I'll open it up on the double bed in the spare bedroom when I want to use it to test a train or let the nephews play. When I want to use it as a table, it will sit across a couch in the study, where I can build on it. So it doesn't really need legs. The cleat that runs down the middle 'seals' the box when its folded, to keep the dust out. I'll post another pic one day when I have a loop laid out.

As promised. My door layout in progress. Album here I may paint it - I haven't decided yet. I'll play with it for a bit first. Handles may need to be bigger... I plan to glue down some 2x4 plates, and fix the track to these. I can't do it yet as the track I need is in use elsewhere. Having a folding door obviously limits the height of the structures you can erect, but it will serve it's purpose for me.

You’ve motivated me! Doors ordered, pics soon!

In Australia, just received both mine from Lego store. And then noticed I can get both sets ~20% less through regular retailers....

I didn’t put a photo up of mine, not much to see in 8 black wheels! Just last night I started gathering the parts for the rest of MOC, I should be able to post a WIP in a month or so.