Chilly

Contest idea - something (but not a vehicle, unless it's primary purpose is not driving) that uses one motor to perform actions, and second to change which action is performed. Think like the fork lift truck in 8082 - http://technicopedia.com/8082.html

I'm sure I built the B model many years ago, but either I'm getting old, or I didn't finish it then. I can't get it together now. I'm stuck on page 227 where it rotates the last placed assembly. I don't have any photos of complete model, or notes in the instructions, so does anyone have this model and have any notes or hints as to how that bit rotates. It's all threaded on axles, that go through axle holes on the bent lift-arms. (It doesn't help that it's all black!)

Thanks all for your thoughts. The problem seems to be the gears added on page 59 are not staying where they should be, but are bouncing away from the diff. I can't see that I've missed a step, but who knows without taking it completely apart. I've solved it by adding a cross axle through the technic bricks, with a Technic Axle and Pin Connector Perpendicular 3L with Pin Hole 32068 joining the original axle in place. http://www.readypedalgo.co.uk/Lego Images/8466 - Page 59.png

For anyone looking for the link above, it's now here: https://www.designer-han.nl/lego/Modifications.html

Just built 8466 (2nd/3rd time) and the engine/wheels are not happy together. Has anyone got one built, and could take a photo from underneath? I'm particularly interested to know if the diffs at each end are the same way round or opposite. Mnay thanks

8485 Control Centre has 3 models, (and 8094 has four, but only 549 parts) 8466 4x4 Off Roader

Yes, I think you're correct. The HOG is a bit low and awkward to operate. I have all the extra pieces lined up on the table, so will have a go and see what it does. I've got the original book, just wondered what this mod was. Going to have a go.

Several years back, I bought a used 8880 Super Car, which didn't come with instructions. Before I built it, I found a paper copy. In the meantime I downloaded the instructions from Peeron/PICSL and had them printed and bound. I've built the car a number of times, but never used the downloaded instructions. I am now building the car again, and this time using the downloaded instructions (spiral binding is great, the book stays flat and you can fold it back on itself). I have now got to a page with handwriting on it, that I cannot read - my german? is not very good. Can anyone make sense of the below pictures, or can translate? 8880 Handwriting 1 8880 Handwriting 2

Thanks. I used the parts I already had. I'm happy with the first, studded model, so have given up trying to improve it.

I am in awe of all MOCers Are there any admins that can remove this circled picture? I've tried many times, it just won't go away.

Version 2 using new style Technic using more L beams and no baseplate. This one does work, no different to the original old-style Technic. Two and a half times as many parts as the old technic model Technic Pin Connector Hub Perpendicular 3L with 4 Pins to create holes for axles As an exercise I was quite surprised how many more parts were required to make this tiny model using new-style Technic compared with old-style. The old-style build was much more intuitive. Placing connector pins so each layer didn't interfere with the one above or below needed careful thought. I take my hat off to all those out there who design bigger models. You are amazing.

I've had two attempts at building the same winder, but only using new Technic, so no studs at all. First attempt was not rigid enough, I think the green baseplate is just too flexible. Tried putting the long beams around it to stop if flexing, but it wasn’t enough. The gears chattered more than often than they worked. Partially dismantled, showing base layer parts Technic Pin Connector Plate used as feet 3/4 pin used so can place on baseboard L beams used to try to stop bobbin being pushed away from gears Gears still not meshing nicely Abandonded

For Xmas I bought myself the instructions and the extra parts that I didn't already own, to build Nico's Manual Braiding Machine. It's great, works just as it should. Except. I got bored hand-winding the thread onto the bobbins, if it was too loose or too tight or wriggly, the machine couldn't make good braids. I needed to make a winder. First attempt was with bricks and plates, I didn't even think I needed gears. Then realised that gears meant more wound yarn for less winding time. The bobbin itself was being pushed away from the gears, so a little wall stopped that. I then realised it took up far more space than necessary, so swapped out some bigger bricks for smaller, and a smaller baseplate. Great, it worked, but I was winding in one direction and the bobbin wasn't winding the direction I expected it to. Added another gear and that problem was sorted. I was happy, my first bit of free-style LEGO since I was a child. Nico’s Manual Braiding Machine Nico’s original bobbin My alternative, side by side with Nico’s. Hoping to use the extra beam to create tension on the thread. And a longer axle, so could add a gear for winding Can’t attach the bobbin to bricks as connectors prevent contact. Need to add a 1 x 3 plate. One gear, but gears not meshing as bobbin pushed away. One gear, with wall to resist bobbin. And smaller bricks Second gear added, so handle winds in more intuitive direction. This works perfectly. Then I saw this contest. And read the rules, which seemed to imply I needed to remake my winder without using old-style bricks and plates. This proved to be a much harder task. How can something so small need so many parts.

Just finished building this set. I had three attempts to get the earth/moon attached to the main module, and each time a gear fell out as I was fiddling! Third time worked fine. Until I discovered the earth is not tilting in the correct direction. Looks like I need to disengage the gears from the turntable, rotate the centre part and re-engage the gears. But. I can't find a way to do this without removing the earth/moon module and starting again. Does anyone have a solution to this? (Sorry if it's already been discussed, but I didn't find anything by searching.)

OK thanks, but I like a challenge, so I'll have a go at using beams and connectors. That will be more in keeping with the machine.