Dav1d

I have spent a lot of timed thinking about buying 60423 the Downtown Street Car(red tram) LEGO 60423 Downtown Streetcar and Station | Brickset wondering if it would work with a 9V motor. After seeing one at a show, I thought it could be modified but I didn't like the long coupling bar Therefore the first step was to replace it with a shorter bar - it still goes round the "S" bend. Now I could add the motor - the motor wheels are much closer together than the original carriage wheels, and so wasn't sure if making the carriage 16 studs long would be too much for the couplings. But it works. You can see I'm trying it on the most difficult "S" bend I could find. I then just needed to add the carriage sides using basic bricks. - you can see the spare parts left over. But each of the three carriages have their own door, the passengers cannot move between them. There is now no door on the centre carriage! Therefore the carriages needed further modification to add a corridor. Here you can see the finished tram, and the spare parts that are left. I only used basic black bricks & plates and red bricks. It does run well - going round the "S" bend.

I was looking for a better version of this shop poster - I could not find one.

Thanks, I used this method - this was the "recommended method" - but this is a simple alternative method that has worked.

I have used the recommended way to repair 9V connectors. You need three hands to take the connectors apart and occasionally the small triangular metal connection breaks and sometimes you need to have a second go as the metal connector hasn't pierced the insulation. But I have found two out of three work successfully. I have a Airport Shuttle and with age the insulation is deteriorating and breaking off, therefore I decided to try repairing the insulation, rather than taking it apart. I used Waterproof Liquid Insulation Electrical Tape - Waterproof Liquid Insulation Electrical Tape Fast Fixed Dry Glue Sealing U4S4 | eBay The example image they show doesn't look neat, if you take care you can make it better. I was at a show this weekend and it has worked successfully, running for the two days.

There has been no discussion on the station - I think it looks interesting - wonder if the sketch & description is to get round the problem of leaks.

I now see how Backspace works - when you are adding track - pressing Backspace doesn't work, you have to click on the track join, then press Backspace. Also I couldn't get Delete to work. It would be good if you could select a track element then press Delete. I agree that elevation changers are not necessary or polarity checks, but other parts are important and maybe an easy way to design your own parts.

I'm still using Track Designer - it does everything I need. It would be nice to have plastic as well as 9V track. Matt Bates did a great job and over 20 years later it is still being used. I gave you tool a try, it looks, as you say, like a very simple version of Track Designer. If you were to add more functionality (couldn't deleted a track element) it could be very useful. Well done, I hope you continue with the development. David

Has anybody fitted a 9V motor to the 60423 tram?

Here is the 4553 Train Wash in action at Cupar Model Railway Show. I have been working my way through my collection, this time displaying trains from 1997-2002 which included the Train Wash. I had bought it, built it and ignored it, but by moving the brushes one stud back from the track it works well. I had never seen one in action before. Sorry I have never shared a video before.

I've been displayed my 9V trains for many years at shows and never had any motors burn out. I try to keep my trains short and only have one motor per train. I find it better to have several short loops of track rather than one long loop. Occasionally a motor will cut out, so I put it in a siding for a rest and it works later (there must be a heat cut-out). I do try to keep my track clean.

Could you put the motor between the carriages as in a Jacobs bogie ?

I've been waiting for a Friends train - we just need LEGO to produce one - they have done everything else with Friends.

It was a joy to work with Holger on this project. I had been disappointed that no English version was available, so thought about translating it for my own use. On contacting Holger we decided to work together to create this translation. I thought I was an "expert" on 12V trains but I learnt so much on this adventure. the book is not just about sets but as the translation says "LEGO Railway Wold - The 80's: Models, Landscapes, Set" - it also includes details of specific LEGO train parts/features. There was a review of the German version here New book on 1980s trains now available | Brickset

I still use Track Designer. I wonder if Matt Bates is still around? It is no longer supported but here is a link The LEGO® Train Depot (diesel-dave.com)

R32 & R40 would be too close. You normally need space between them depending on the overhang of your tram. I only have standard R40 track. To get different radius I add the odd straight between curves (the more straights the bigger the radius). You could add four straights to a circle, one in each of the the N/E/S/W positions to give a larger 'radius'. You really need to try it with your tram(s).

I can only see two - Brick Cross Train Station and Logging Railway. was the other in a previous series?

Excellent story and video.

Nice model of the station, but Kings Cross is a terminus, it would be better if the train shed were turned through 90 degrees.

Working on the 9V train cables I found it was best to remove the last 1mm of insulation of the 2x2 end of the cable to test that the track connections work. Once they are tested, trim the cable again. I have fixed two, one now runs the motor backwards, the other forwards. I thought I had got it the same way round as a working cable - the video doesn't mention that I think a magnifying glass to see the metal prongs on the 2x2 connectors are pointing up would be useful. I may need a spot of glue on the track connectors as the clips are bent and may not hold tight

It arrived a few weeks ago, probably didn't come from the US as there there was no customs duty. I have been busy so didn't have time to work on it. Got the short cable working. Didn't work first time as one of the connectors was damaged. A simple cable tester was necessary. Will try the 9V train cables next.

I have just bought a second hand 10874 Duplo steam train and accessories. When I place in it 4 AAA (1.2V) rechargeable batteries and press the green button underneath the light lights up and when you push it it goes, it doesn't manage to get up the bridge. Also the stop, reverse and fuel (stop for a short time), light sensors all work but the sound one doesn't. I replaced the batteries with new ALDI 1.5V non rechargeable batteries. When I press the green button it lights up but then when you try to push it nothing happens, also pressing the button again the light will not go on. Any ideas what the problem is?

I think that is the link I used (or similar) - it says 'dispatches from Amazon US' - so I assume it ships from the US.

Thanks again, just what I needed. I hadn't spotted the tiny metal spikes that go through the wire - maybe the video needs a very close up shot Now started on the track connectors, but have to wait for the cable. I think it is coming from the USA, I'm in UK, so I have to wait 10days. I will let you know how I get on.

Thank you, that was just what I was looking for. I have now taken the 2x2 connectors apart and ordered the cable. I expected to remove 1-2mm of insulation from the end of the cable - I don't see how there is an electrical connection. This was just 2x2 to 2x2 connectors. I also have the speed controller to track connecters to repair - this is more complex. Is there a similar video on how to replace the that cable? Thanks.

I have a 9V wire with connectors. The wire has broken where it enters the connectors. I have been told I can take the 2x2 connector apart and the wires are just clamped in position. How do you take them apart? - I assume it is easy if you know how. I have read that I just need a small flat head screw driver. Is there any more advice please maybe with photos of where to put the scredriver(s). Thanks.