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Carrera124

Eurobricks Citizen
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Everything posted by Carrera124

  1. 8851: looks good, works fine, nice features, good playability 8846: really compact, lots of features, perfect partner for 8845
  2. Maybe, but the Lego numbering system was very simple during the 1980s. Even a 10-year old is able to understand it after reading one or two catalogs. It is hard to understand that a "new" product manager should not be able to understand such a simple system. Or, if a new employee makes a mistake, if there is experienced staff that can correct that issue.
  3. Just sent a bunch of HQ 6383 instructions scans to Brickfactory. I hope they will provide them soon.
  4. Mysterious... I wondered whether time might be an indicator... early sets within 6xxx range, later sets (from 1985 or so) within 1xxxx range. But 6387 proves this wrong... it is also an US-only set, and is located within the 63xx range.
  5. Of course, I know that. And I also know the list, thanks to Brickset & Co. But the question is: why were these sets "special", while other sets (e.g. 6390 and 6375-2, both US-only, too) were not ? Some (few) sets show that they are special, e.g. the 1589 breakdown assistance, or the 1854 velux house, or the milk trucks.
  6. I have the same question, especially regarding sets from the 1980s. E.g. set 1572. It is US-only, but this does not necessary explain why it doesn't have a normal numer like 66xx, which were standard at that time.
  7. Hello, from time to time, old display showcases of 8094 Control Center I appear at eBay. I remember that I already saw this showcase during childhood when this set has been released in 1990, so I am sure that it is not a fake. Interestingly, the showcase doesn't contain a standard 8094 model, but a small yellow plane. As far as I know, this plane is similar to the plane shown in 8891 idea book, but it is not identical. Unfortunately, I missed to save some pictures of the eBay auctions's description. I thought it would be no problem to find better pics by Google or at Brickshelf, in order to re-create this special model. Strangely, I cannot find any pictures of that 8094 showcase. So, that's my question: is anyone out there, who could provide pics of that item ? kind regards, Christian
  8. 1a: I am collecting classic studded Technic (sets), from the beginning to ~ 1999/2000. 1b: Classic town, era from ~1978 to ~ 1991. 2: PF trains. Maybe someday I'll start collecting grey 12V trains in order to fit my town collection...
  9. I am wondering what happened to these beautiful "fll size" glued models ? Did they survive ? Or have they been sold, broken down, destroyed ?
  10. To be honest: the renders of the complete models are less interesting for me. But I like the "new parts" section and pictures, and I like the texts both for the complete year and the models/sets.
  11. This could have been my words, too. Althoug I collect all catalogs since I was a little boy (and therefore knew about nearly all technic sets), it is really interesting to read all the texts and watch all the pictures from Technicopedia. I really would appreciate if it would be continued with the sets from 1996 and later.
  12. That is really true. I guess, they are afraid of non-authorized reprints if they would provide HQ PDF-files.
  13. I agree with that. Especially, the color/friction issue bothers me. The reason is, that some liftarms have round holes at their ends, while other liftarms have axle-holes at their ends. To connect them firmy, there are at least 3 different methods: - use a standard 2L connection pin with friction (black) - use a 2L axle-pin connector with friction (blue) - use a 2L axle (red) It is obvious that is no good idea to produce these parts in the same color, to get a clear distinction between friction and non-friction-parts. Everyone but be driven crazy if 3 different 2L parts would have the same color. There must be an easy method to distinguish them. As the liftarms have no studs, you need millions of axles and connectors to build a studless set. In contrast to that, classic studded sets are doing well using only a few connector parts, and axles are mainly used as axles. Personally, I prefer classic studded sets. Thanks to Ebay and Bricklink, it is still no problem to get good and/or unopened ones.
  14. During the last months, I bought lots of MISB sets from the 80ies and 90ies, and built them. (originally, I started buying used sets, but nearly everytime, parts were missing/broken/incorrect, so I decided to buy unopenend ones). Pneumatic cylinders are running somewhat rough sometimes, but all in all everything works fine. My greatest problem are tires from sets produced between ~1995 and ~2005. They all feel slippery, it seems as if they loose softener chemicals, although they were sealed during the last 20 years. Ununsed tires from sets older than 1994 don't show this problem, I guess Lego changed the chemical compound of the tires around 1995.
  15. 1966 (and some other promotional sets) have been sold in Germany, too A few additional pics can be found at my brickshelf accout
  16. The technical features look/sound great, but the shown models are really ugly.
  17. I am still not sure whether I should open my sealed 8479 or not. After reading this review, I really would like to build it.
  18. I don't think so. Maybe if you're an engineer, but the main problem is: for studless building, there are lots of different parts that have the same purpose. For example, to simply connect two liftarms, sometimes part Nr. 2780 is needed. Sometimes part 43093 is required, and in other cases you need part 32062. This drives me crazy. It's true that studless models offer great features, that are designed very "smooth". But you forgot an important issue: building with studded technic bricks, is very much closer to building with system bricks. Therefore, it is not important that the studded technic bricks slightly higher than a single stud, because this applies to all studded system bricks. The classic brick-plate-plate-brick scheme is very simple and easy to recognize.
  19. Nice review. When I saw this set for the first time, it didn't appeal to me. But some months ago, I was able to buy a sealed one at a reasonable price, so I built it. And it is great: the suspension is perfect, neither too stiff nor too soft. Steering works smoothly, and the doors and the hood are cool features. So, it still looks somewhat strange, but it is fun to build, all the features are well-designed, and we get some interesting parts in unusual colors.
  20. @Trekman, there's a simple solution: go and buy older (studded) Technic sets for your son Bricklink is a good source for buying used sets. Personally, I bought lots of sealed sets at Ebay during the last months. Especially, I am looking for sealed sets with crushed or "bad" boxes. Usually, they are not good enough for MISB collectors, and they are too expensive for people who only want to have the parts. Browse through Blakbird's Technicopedia, and you surely will find out what older sets you (and your son) might be interested in.
  21. Christmas 1988 comes back to my mind.. that was the time when I received the set. 8865 looks great, the only issue is the width of the axles. The proportions of the bodywork are fine, but the wheels stick out too wide. But the design of the suspension is better than in set 8880. Finally, at least two versions of this set exist. The Peeron instruction scans show how to motorize the set using 8720, which was released in 1990. My printed instruction shows how to motorize the set using 8700, which was the only motor available during '88 and '89.
  22. @TechnikFreak, I recommend 8846 and 8851. Two classic Technic sets, that are not too big and therefore not too expensive. Both offer lots of technical features and are fun to build.
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