Parax

Does that 8 tooth fit there, isn't there a clearance issue? P.

That is really Nice! can it lift much? p.

It can be difficult to find all the parts in one store (unless its a very expensive store) but I've never worried about where stuff is coming from (in US keep orders below £50 to avoid import duty & tax issues) If you create a wishlist of items then BrickLink will find stores with those items in stock. I have used many stores, but My emergency goto store is my local seller who is just across town http://www.bricklink.com/store.asp?p=masterbuilder1 There are also buying opportunities from AFOL clubs like www.brickish.com P.

yep I remember spending hours with that catalogue.. and most likely still have my copy too.. I think 8020 was my first Technic then 8040.. Sometimes I wish they would do universal sets again... Definitely the best way to encourage independent building, lots of ideas and functions and good for parts, and models you don't want to keep made up... P.

Yup I'd vote for a servo too! (did someone say cuusoo) Perhaps 90 Degrees Left or right (180 total) This 'could' be controlled using the the existing PF system with 7 steps each side allowing position control from the dial remote or full 90 degrees from the on/off levers remote. I doubt this would happen because the 'signal' wires carry pwm power, but it would be possible. Hopefully one day Bluetooth (or alt.) will be cheap enough to make this a reality! P.

Do you mean this Gear? (not a clutch) http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=94925 Its been around since last year (8053&8043) though so you can't tell anything from it. Mike.

Seems Lego UK are doing their own Technic Challenge: http://www.legotechnicchallenge.co.uk/ More on Technic Bricks http://technicbricks.blogspot.com/2011/08/lego-uk-runs-lego-extreme-machine.html BUT The Gallery is full of Cheats again.. When will they learn? Feel free to post any links to stuff you spot and we'll see if we can get them reported... http://www.legotechnicchallenge.co.uk/gallery/ This Robot Arm by piotrek839: And MAHJ's Stilzkin Bridge Launcher again..

Its just a plastic tank. with two inlet/outlet ports. If you have a T piece and a blob of sticky tack (or chewing gum) and a fizzy drinks bottle (MUST be a fizzy drink pressurised bottle not a water bottle) you can make a far better air tank! The tank is not actually that great it holds about 6 cylinder strokes worth of air. A pop bottle holds ten times that. P.

It is not the nicest piece! If it were my choice I would have designed it with mounting holes above and below the pneumatic tube, and the hoses are tight! Parax.

There is no Clutch in the compressor design (and no obvious pressure relief valve in the pump I was not able to examine it too closely), This could be a flaw Lego may look at.. they have always clutched compressors previously. The hose might be slightly different to previous hose, I was not able to compare it side by side, it felt a lot stiffer to attach, so it does not 'blow-off' under high pressure, I guess that Lego may want to add a clutch but I really hope they do not put back the launch date and just issue a service pack. Clutches are used in the winch and Grabber arm but they are in the devices not in the truck. The issue with the axle alignment is trivial its a one part fix and it does not affect the model as it is, as the deviation is on the steering axle, so steers out. P.

Just a Word of advice guys: Don't put your submission Pictures on the internet! The whole reason for having the Printout is to stop people taking pics from the internets. If your picture is here you are giving it away!!! (its easy to edit an overlay name) if they submit it, then what are Lego to do? accept the first submission? More probably throw both out! but what if they keep it till next year or the year after? what if you decide to submit something else instead, They can use your pictures!! Just don't post the Entry Pics anywhere on the web! by all means show your entries Just not with the verification image!!! P.

Did you solve the problem, of rotation transferring to the other actuators, mechanically, or by programming it out at the nxt? Parax.

But it looks nothing like mine :P Parax.

Simplest way? http://shop.lego.com/ByTheme/Product.aspx?p=8878 It has a built in speed controller (7 step) and it'll save you money/hassle in the long run. You could use a PF speed controller remote and a receiver too, It's possibly cheaper than the rechargeable battery. As for noise, this greatly reduced if you use a speed controller. I have no experience of encapsulating the motor, but I doubt there would be issues though, as its designed to work whilst encased in Lego! I believe there is a thermal cut-out on it, perhaps someone could confirm this. P.

The Slot looks very much like the newer pieces which have a slot also http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemPic.asp?P=64179 http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemPic.asp?P=62821 This slot is a moulding short-cut for the recessed ring that pins snap into. Although it is mainly used on the insides of open structures. Perhaps this original slot was also a moulding issue rather than being functional. Nice find, its good to see rare parts! P.

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http://technic.lego.com/en-us/competition/default.aspx P.

It's about the model not the kid. Just don't publish pictures of your own models in other peoples hands... If you want a random kid to win with your model that is your choice, but no-one else has your model! You could take the idea a step further and say the private image should have a sheet of paper with the words "Technic challenge" written in it also, but that may get too complex for some... This is not the first time that false images have been submitted into competitions The same thing happened with a BBC Dr Who competition but it was discovered too late. I like that Idea a lot! :thumbup: P.

I hope Lego make one change! They should require a public and a private image. The Public image is of the model for publishing, the private image is for Lego only and should be the builder with Model. This would eliminate 99% of the cheating, submit any image found on the net, entries. I'm not sure I'll enter anything this year, I only managed one last year. Time will tell. Parax.

yes! well remembered! I had forgotten about that one too.. I only recently got the 8856 as it came out the year my dark age started in 91... (the Technic control center Version 1 from 1990 was one of my last sets!) I am yet to find out why these total metal parts were always painted black.. Parax.

OK having looked again there is an engine under the cab so fingers crossed and new glasses... P.

Cough cough.. look again! perhaps try the link I included. OR this one: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=70163&in=S

Yes I agree, yellow is rotary or pneumatic function, then red switch for rotary to front or rear and a second red switch for pneumatic to front or rear. I hate to cast a dark cloud but if this set does not have motor drive (which I think we have established it does not) and it does not have an engine with pistons/cylinders (I have not seen one yet in the photos or box art, have you?) why would it have any form of axle drive at all? as much as I hate to say it I see no reason to have any diffs or new uj's at all. Like 8069 excavator or 8053 Crane! Lego usually only put diffs there if it drives an engine (or function in 8274 Combine harvester) or is driven by a motor. We can only hope that there is an option to motorize by adding another motor. P.

OK so is that black and yellow shocks? The box images show black top ends but the model shows yellow base ends.. Is this the case in the image above? its not so clear.. Ok so I'm seeing 4 pneumatic switches... three at the rear and one next to the battery box (at the finger tip).. I'm thinking this mid switch is to select either front(plough) or rear(grab) pneumatic device.. with the three rear switches for the grab, and on the alt model switches at the front on the plough.. any thoughts?

Ok I have a solution by means of another error! I just updated to the latest drivers 11.1 (01/26/2011) and Civ-V stopped working in Dx10/11 mode so since they added a patch for crossfire enhancements in Civ-V I assumed they broke it.. Whilst I was looking for older versions of the drivers I found that the old packages (catalyst+drivers) do not contain the right drivers.. go figure (ain't this company great! </sarcasm>) well anyway I loaded a much older driver [10-1_vista64_win7_64_dd] (thats 10.1 from jan 2010) downloaded as driver only without catalyst and now all works fine, in both Civ-V and LDD... So perhaps They should give up writing newer drivers.. Parax.