Lost_In_Noise

eZthumbs is your friend. It really looks like a bumper car, can you make a video?

I had the same issue with mine. It is from the first batch though.

This looks very good. Kudos to staying almost all-yellow with a limited parts assortment. I think it almost looks like a studded construction until you take a closer look. The trailer is very good also. I barely noticed the IR recievers.

Yep that's probably it. It's strange though, that it didn't happen the first time I assembled the model

I've had lots of problems with this as well. The engine makes a horrible grinding noise when the car is pushed over a surface. My problem was that the upper 16T gear to the crankshaft was popping out of place, and misaligned with the drive axle. If you replace the 4 axle with bush in step 8, page 24 in book 2 with a 5 axle, and add a bush to the end, the problem disappears.

Very nice. It tackles that book obstacle as it was nothing. That climbing on the sofa is awesome. I'm most impressed by the looks. It looks like a Gmade Rock Buggy Are those springs able to fully extend, or are the permanently stressed? I can't tell from the video.

I had to edit most of the pictures, removing the studio lines and so forth. Hopefully they look a bit better now Does anyone know what happens if you upload new images to brickshelf with the same filenames? Will the files be replaced?

That's the wire for the front grabber. But the car should still drive though... I think.

Nice work. So, you use the mini LA to shift the changeover catch from neutral to forward gear? That's a nice feature.

Haha, looks like these pins have finally found their true calling.

VROOM! 8479 was released in 1997, contains 1280 pieces, and features remote controlled programmable driving arrangements via a barcode sheet. It was $164 on release, I paid $90 for mine. The set comes a booklet with two instructions for main and alternate model, a code pilot guide, and a barcode card: The code card is a printed piece of plastic which is quite large. This made shipping this set impossible from where I first ordered it, and very expensive once I got a hold onto it in my part of the world. The front has barcodes for different pre-programmed orders.... ...and the back has a piano outline, making it possible for the truck to make many different engine sounds. The additional Code Pilot booklet shows how to use the Code Pilot with the barcode sheet, and how to program your own movements with the truck. Last in the booklet is an example of how to queue up multiple orders: Interesting pieces The "Code Pilot" control box has two electric inputs at the front, and buttons to record, play, stop and change program. It houses 6x AA 1,5V batteries, and is exclusive to this set. The wheels in this set are 6 of the 32019s (left), and 2 6594s (right). Another special part is the older heavy 9V mini-motor, which is the same as the one in the Power Puller set. This is an Electric touch sensor, which is otherwise only seen in ROBOLAB and Robotic sets. There is a total of 65 gears in this set if you count the differential. I think it's the set with most gears. The ones in the front are two 24T clutch gears, which prevents the engine from stalling, and to the right is a Timing wheel from the NXT series. Well, enough facts, let's get started! As most pre-2000 Technic sets, this begins at the bottom. Multiple layers of plates makes the chassis strong. The first gear is placed at step 6 out of 50 total for this model. The differential along with the drive axle is placed at the rear of the chassis. Steering in place. Additional plates reinforces the top. These "Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with Door Rail"s will keep the motor in place in the finished model. The steering rack for the front axle. You can see the touch sensor in the back. The function switching knobs utilizes the flex system. The knobs themselves are made of thin liftarms. This gear rack in the front will connect the steering wheel to the steered axis. An electric extension cable runs from the touch sensor. It will eventually be attached to the Code Pilot. Steering wheel is connected via a set of 8T gears. The shortest axle is for the HOG, and the longest is for the drive motor. The axle in the front is for the steering wheel. The front bumper is made of a blend of Technic and system bricks. The rear wheelbase has its own submodel assembly. The first green pieces are added. Rear end complete, now for the third axle, which is not driven. The axle is fastened to the rear end by a 10 axle, and then mounted on the main chassis. The tilting bed mechanism holds a lot of gears. An initial 24T clutch gear prevents the engine from stalling. A set of 8T gears drives a gear rack for the tilt. Ah, geary goodness. This contraption is placed on top of the chassis. An insane amount of gears between the tilt mechanism and the driving ring. Wheelwells finished. Tiles in the back insures that the tilting bed will operate smoothly. This gear rack is placed on top, along with an extension cable for the PF. Another gear rack for the tilting mechanism. Dual 8-24T gear setup insures the machanism can't be backdriven. Another layer of black Technic bricks are applied to the body. These tiles with 1 stud provides support for some Technic beams. The axle connectors here will... connect to the front arm of the truck. The base for the seats in place. These two racks provide the support for the RC unit. The 8T bevel gears meshes, connecting the drive axle to the Timing Wheel, making the vehicle able to measure how far it has driven. Note the "3 Axle with stud" locking the vertical bricks in place. The steering wheel base is made of thin liftarms. A HOG wheel is placed on top of the cabin. This rack will keep the windshield in place. The dashboard has some buttons, and says LT-97 on it. Placed along with the rear supports for the cabin. The front windshield is made the same way as 8880, making use of hinge plates to simulate a curved shape. And some exhaust pipes. This is starting to look like a real truck. Next is the grabbing arm, which uses the flex system to its full extent. Right side is made first. It's attached to the 8 axle which has a 16T gear on it. The power cord for the front touch sensor runs along the arm. The grabber holds the second touch sensor, making it able to sense when the load is in the grabber. Here it is attached to the arm. You get an idea of how it will work. The left side arm is made in exactly the same way. Both attached. You can see how the end of the flex cables are attached to the towball pins on each claw arm. Seats and mirrors. The roof is mostly made from plates. The "Pole Reverser Handle"s clicks onto the vertical 8L beams. Lastly, adding wheels before the bed will be made. The bed is essentially a simple cage put over a brick foundation. A total of 7 green 10 axles, 1 10 axle , and 4 of the 4's are present in this set. They help outlining the bed. It feels like the axles in different colors (other than black/grey) are lighter than the other. It may be I'm only imagining this. The sides of the bed are made the same way as 8480s cargo bay doors; using bent liftarms and axles. Both are made the same way, only mirrored on each side. The rear wall is hinged with frictionless pins at the top, which lets it swing open by itself when the bed is tilted. The finished bed is placed on the truck chassis. A 10 axle connects the gear rack for tilting in the middle of the bottom. Finished. It looks like your average garbage truck. Let's test the functions: "I order you to pick up this wheel!" "Very good. Now pick up two at a time! And fast!" "Turn around. Let me see how you do that again." "Very good! You may proceed to the next trash-filled area." "So this truck is really RC'ed? Well, I wouldn't rely on it." "We can't possibly carry more of these tires. We have to dump them, do you see any good spots?" "I can't see anything really, but what harm can a few tires do?" "So I was looking for a nice outfit in DBG, but they only had this fancy fireman suit." "Hey, at least you ain't wearing a White Top with White and Green Torso with Rescue Pattern, and have to carry a knife wherever you go. Even in the shower!" "Wait! Who turned off the light?" "Augh!" "Incoming!" "Aw!" "My..." "Articulated..." "Ball Joints." "Way to go thrashing the party guys! Thanks a lot! If I'd only had fingers, I would show you one." Conclusion I'm having a hard time comparing this with anything, it's just so unique. If I limit it to "Vehicle with loading abilities", I end up with the following: 8109: 8264: 8052: 8273: 8110: This is the hardest set I have ever constructed . There are so many errors to be made, and the chassis is extremely flimsy in the beginning. You can't really test if everything works before the model is finished, and the code pilot is placed. I'm a bit puzzled over this set. I can't get it working right. The engine seems to be either undersized or broken. It can barely lift the wheel loaded on the front claw. The command queue-up only works sometimes. It works well enough if you assign the different functions manually, but that wasn't the point of this model. Thanks for watching/viewing pics. Feel free to comment, critizise or ask any questions. High-rez pictures are availible @ BrickShelf.

I have some ideas, from my own sets. These are three examples used in 8854, 8848 and 8858. All look nice, but the last one is the best IMHO.

Did you figure out anything regarding the flaps? I guess you could use a long beam in a 90-degree fashion, and force the flaps down/up that way.

Haha, I meant purposedly built for dominoes. Well, I found something: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FzB-C4060fE Obviously, the "add media" fuction doesn't work with shortened urls...

Ingeinious design. So simple, yet so functional. Thanks for sharing your work. Does machines like this exist in the real world, with pre-programmed tracks and so forth?

It looks great, and I see you used the Flex System for tilting bed(?) Those parts are used too rarely these days. Can you make some thumbnails, so people can view the pics faster? eZThumbs is your friend

I'm very excited by your set (don't get me wrong ). Will you post pictures of the building process, or a working video? I suppose the springs will get flatter due to the weight of the truck, AFAIK LDD has no way to demonstrate this.

Thanks for the info. I have got this set, but haven't even bulit the alternate model yet

This looks very good. Can you explain how the steering works? I guess it's similar to the 8265's articulated body. I was wondering how you manage to gear the HOG axle sufficient to turn the LA fast enough to work as a steering unit with so few parts. I'm guessing it's the black axle connectors in the back that controls the functions. Thanks for sharing

8422 Circuit Shock Racer was released in 1995, contains 315 parts, and features front fork steering, dual shock absorbers front and back, and a 2-cylinder engine powered by the rear wheel via a chain. It was 33$ on release, and I paid about 15$ for mine. The wheels used in this model are 2903's, and those are also used in 8838 Shock Cycle, 8857 Street Chopper and 8291 Dirt Bike. Comparison with a 13x24 Model Team tire from 8810 and the tire from 8051 Other notable parts are two sets of shock absorbers (the same ones as used in the legendary 8880), and 30 link chain pieces. The build starts from the bottom, with the engine added on top. The engine is a 2 cylinder V, as usual for Technic motorbikes. Mounted in front of the rear wheelwhell. The engine front is locked in place by a wall of thin liftarms. The rear part of the motorcycle has its own instructions. Here is the tail light in place. You can see where the seat will be. The black pin you see here is used to fix the license plate in place. Looks like someone with the initials M.C. made this MotorCycle:P. The seat is finished, and some decorative white plates are placed on the side of the engine. The "Motorcycle Pivot" is placed at a fixed angle due to some cams supporting it. The gas tank is made of thin liftarms with axle connectors between. The drive axle has a 16T and a 24T crown gear on it. The crown gear meshes with a 8T gear which leads to the drive axle. Rear wheel in place. The chainlink is placed between the 24T and the 16T gear, resulting in a final drive ratio of 1:0,22. The footstand is the last thing to be made before we move on the the fork. A Flex System part is used for windshield. The shocks are placed the opposite way as per usual. The mount for the handlebars has its own piece, before they are placed on top of the fork. Lastly, adding some dials on the dashboard, before the fork is connected to the main body with a 3 axle with stud. Finished. Comparison with 8838 and 8051; 8810 and 8210, 2544 and 3054 I think this is a rather good set. It bridges the gap between the studless 8051 and the older 8838 in a good way. It's got a more sporty look than its predecessor, but 8051 stands tall as the nicest looking Technic bike IMHO. I'm certainly looking forward to the next Technic bike . As always, big pics @ BrickShelf

Thanks. I'll be doing some more of them, I just have to find the time... I wish I had started this hobby when I was a kid, and had a lot of spare time on my hands But then I wouldn't have any money for buying sets either....

EzThumbs? Nice mod btw

Fixed.

8256 Go-Kart was released in 2009, contains 144 pieces, and sports front wheel steering, and a rear-mounted 1-cylinder engine driven by the rear wheels, just like a real Go-Kart. It was 15$ on release, and I paid about 20$ for it with box. There aren't that many lime-green Technic sets, and this is the smallest one to get if you want one. A total of 8 lime green parts are present in this little go-kart. I thought the lime panels were unique to this set, but they also show up in the 8291 Dirt Bike from the previous year. At least this is the only set to include Soft Axle 7 in PLG. The wheels are 30,4 x 14s, and this is the only time these are seen in the Technic line. Well, on with the build.. Starting with the rear axle, with has a 16T gear on it. A "Pin Connector Perpendicular 3L with 4 Pins" is used to connect the cylinder to the base. It's my first time seeing that this is done. The engine crankshaft is placed in the usual manner. Another 16T gear is attached to it, giving a final drive ratio of 1 : 1. The usual drive ratio for go-karts are 3:1, but, that would make this engine run slower. Correct at will, VFracingteam. The seats are next, made of liftarms, as usual. On the right side, a silver flex axle is used to simulate a curved shape. The whole thing is placed on the chassis: The steering wheel is made in an unusual manner, first the wheel itself is place on some thin liftarms. Then some liftarms in the front: And the back: The steering hubs: And rack: Lastly, the front is tilted towards the rear, and attached by some thin 2L liftarms. Now some silver flex axles finishes the hood. Front bumper in place, along with some panels on the sides. Rear exhaust pipe: Finished! Now all that's left is the wheels... This go-cart will do a lot of spinning in the future. A comparison between the other Technic go-karts; 8815, 8832, 1972 and 8225 Ready to race: Along with the grandfather, 854: I think this is the best looking Technic Go-Kart yet. The wheels help alot, along with the panels. This is the only one to have them. It's also the only one with a studless design. I don't know why I waited so long to get this set. Thanks for watching/viewing pics . Feel free to ask any questions about this set. Big pics @ BrickShelf

Sure, but that's gonna cost a lot to ship to you i think. The box is in excellent condition, but there are some writing on the front lid with red ink saying "24.12.94" on them at the front wheel and driver's seat.