Omikron

Yes, until I use proton exchange membrane energy cells

Thank you all for the replies. I thought about engine problem TinkerBrick before I added it to the submarine. It is not a v6 - it is X12. And it is not diesel or oil or petrol engine. I prefer to think that it uses hydrogen and oxygen from surrounding water. The submarine carries some battery (like the car) to start the synthesis of hydrogen and oxygen from water by electrolysis. Then Hydrogen is used as power source and is burnt (hydrogen + oxygen = combustion) inside the engine providing it's chemical energy. The engine is rotating the generator to make more electric energy which could be stored or used. The efficiency of this engine type is about 50-80%. Could power the whole submarine for a very long time Why not, when you are floating in the fuel.

Hello Everyone This is my entry for "To sail a Technic sea" contest. Video is SORRY FOR TERRIBLE quality, I'll get better camera tomorrow and will make a new one Quick overview and some info: Weight about 4,3 kg Parts count: more than 4800 Has 2 arms - pneumatic sample arm and heavy duty arm Uses 4 M motors and 1 XL motor Uses 3 battery boxes 1 Additional M motor is used to power the heavy duty arm Has 2 gearboxes - main (the big red one) for operating arms functions secondary gearbox for operating propellers, tail stabilizer and retracting lights Has 2 tail (upper and lower) propulsion distributors and 1 front propulsion distributor. 1 Pilot seat Length 76cm Width 50 cm Hight 30 cm (without the tail stabilizer) The whole construction is using a stand, mainly because of the lower gearing system, axles and weight Functions: 1.The hull has pneumatically opening/closing hatch 2. 2 independent light sources 3. Retracting lights 4. Diving rudders pneumatically controlled from the pilot joystick 5. "Rising" tail stabilizer 6. The "X12" engine. 7. 8 propellers (4 propulsion ,2 vertical, 2 horizontal) driven at the same time from the XL motor (I was trying to make third gearbox for switching between propellers but I ran out of parts and didn't receive new parts yet, I will make this gearbox later) 8. 2 Counter opposite pneumatic pumps running at the same time (when the first pump is recharging the second provides airflow) providing constant airflow 9. Remote controlled switching of gears 10.Remote controlled Left and Right arms 11. 360 degrees rotation of right arm 12. Abduction/adduction of right arm 13. Elevating main boom of right arm 14. Elevating secondary boom of right arm 15. Heavy duty instrument driven by 1 additional M motor (this one is like the Unimog, I'll make lots of different instruments like saws, cutters, drills and other) 16. 360 degrees rotation of the left arm 17. Pneumatically controlled main boom 18. Pneumatically controlled secondary boom 19. Left arm pneumatic grabber. (The left arm can operate between 2 baskets (the lower one sample basket and the left upper one) 20. Abduction/adduction of the left arm. All Arms functions could be controlled in the adducted, during abducting and adducted positions. Functions 6,7,8 are driven at the same time from XL motor with additional possibility of powering function #3 or #5 Gearboxes: 1. Main Big red one gearbox is used to power and switch between arms. 2. Secondary tail gearbox is manually controlled and is used to control retraction of the lights and for controlling the "underwater" and "surface" mods of the submarine. The undone: I've ordered most of the parts in February and didn't receive the main package with my new shiny hull parts. The hull supposed to be in different color and shape, but without this package I made what I could. This creation is my first since "dark ages" I believe I didn't hold Lego parts for more than 10 years. I hope I will be able to create more. Oh and I have some photos of building process, some features, prototypes I used in this entry, if anyone is interested - just ask and will post it. Sorry for mistakes and bad English.

Just read this topic from start and you'll get the explanation. Spend a little of your free time

So is it bad?

What generates that weight? I mean the battery box and motors are big part of it but isn't the hull "empty" inside ?

Wow that's a scale! How much technic parts vs system parts is there in one truck (any) It seems to me that they are system trucks with some technic parts (wheels axles and suspension) or they are full of technic mechanisms inside?

Why PF in most "big" sets is good? For example 8043 has 4 motors, 2 receivers, 2 controls, battery box, 4 actuators - the best PF source set I think. It wouldn't be so great if all functions were manually controlled. And it is rather cheap. Try to buy this PF on bricklink and count their prices + taxes + shipping. Another example - 8070 - only 1 motor and a battery box - do you think they make this set much more expensive?

Yes I like power functions in many sets, because If I only had one battery box and motor I couldn't play with several sets at one time. Having only one set motorized is awful for me, also I consider every new battery box as a spare part

Good! Reminds me a floating boxing ring

Very nicely done build!

I'm using simple criteria for such identification. 1.If TLG says it's technic - it's technic 2. If it is built mostly from technic parts - it's technic For example this creation is not technic for me. The majority of bricks are system, yes it has cool functions, but who said that system doesn't or couldn't. The only technic thing there is suspension and maybe inner frame. Power functions are a standalone LEGO series for me.

Can I download this beautiful music?

Obviously most AFOL prefer technic over other sets. I think almost half or even more sets of every average AFOL are technic Just try to imagine LEGO without technic - the brand feels quite empty

Yes! That's exactly the solution I was looking for. I saw it recently somewhere in Unimog area. I was hoping TLG made special part for this kind of of problems. Thanks a lot!

Thanks for the replies but I think I didn't explain what I need. I'm trying to build moving panel that could keep functions running through it in opened and closed position at the same time 2 axles running through the panel are powering some functions. I need the axles working in both positions It is pretty easy to get them working in any position but not in both. I can just connect driving axles to my 2 axles in position 1 - problem half solved. I can connect my 2 axles with universal joints in position 2 - problem half solved. But I cannot connect them to be drivable in both positions The 53586 is almost what I need,I figured out how I can use it but the friction force inside the tube is worrying me. The solution will work only if the axle could "freely extend"

Hello! I need some advice for choosing parts. I've encountered a problem during building. See picture below. Top view I have 2 axles running through a plate. The plate moves from position 1 to position 2 and axles are moving with it. I'm searching for specific parts or their combination to handle this situation. I think I need an axle with variable length and some joints I've already tried combination of thesejoints and these steering connectors They didn't solve the problem and they are very unstable and provide a very weak connection. So can anyone please help me with this

Wow, nice one! Cannot see the photos here though, also g+ just shows blank white spaces

Super cool, but why one of the back lights is upside down?

Very nice truck, cool idea with rear suspension and using turnables that way But I think rear axles are overloaded a bit or this is just a photo effect?

Great contest! But I have question - does "fish" include jellyfish, octopus or any other floating creatures? And does "submarine" include all 1 man driven things like personal submarines, underwater jet sky or deep sea diving suits?

Hope never dies

Can anyone post guide or instructions how to build this masterpiece? Any info could be useful - parts count, used sets and so on

Thanks for the answer. The Lego education only available in UK and US. You cannot order from any other country. The ebay seller is currently away and his store is empty =( Thanks for the help, I think bricklink is the optimal way right now I'll try LEGO direct though

Hello everyone! I need your help people. I need a lot of 3711 chain links for my next project and I have some questions about buying them. First of all I found some good lots on bricklink but I was confused because some of them are stated as "new" Are sellers getting them directly from TLG? If so, can I order this part directly too? Can anyone help me with price comparison? (I mean that cheapest item I've found was 0.18$ per one 3711, are direct LEGO prices lower?) Please help