ChrisXY

I have a bunch of minifgures; especially CMF Series 1 - 7 and Star Wars (like Commander Rex and others); value from 10 Euro until 150 Euro; like 100 figures What is the best way to sell them? Selling everyone separetely and make photos is insane...I guess? Any tips?

Thanks guys. I will try my best. Buying them from bricklink is too expensive, if I still have them and might get them in a better condition.

Hi, having three pretty old sails that need cleaning. Anyone did successful? I think I shouldn´t use white stain power? Any suggestions (German market/products best). I have tried dish soap already, didn´t help. Also two sails have fully ripped of ends/holes. Anyone how to fix that?

So, update time. I have cleansed the contacts. Put in batteries, connected the receiver and it worked...but my car doesn´t steer to the right. So I have opened the whole case and you see at the top right, where the problem is. By pushing the button up the contact is blocked. This crystallized thing is like stone. What now?

Thanks! Great! Would you use the German names if you sell a set or stick to the English ones?

LEGO elements contain a brominated flame retardant (“BFR”). Basically LEGO wants to prevent that their parts are highly flammable. It´s a safety concern. When exposed to ultraviolet (UV) light the compound decomposes, the bromine migrates to the surface of the part and bonds with atmospheric oxygen, which exposes the inherent brown color of bromine. The effect is particularly visible on white, trans-clear, old grey and blue. As the BFR wasn´t used in the exact proportion in every brick, some bricks yellow, some don´t. Even if they came from the same set and have same sunlight exposure. There is a developed procedure using hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) and sunlight to reverse the effect. Chemically, the oxygen is displaced by hydrogen. This at least a reasonable explanation. Some might say now: That means that sets that are stored away, should not have yellowed. That could be true, but only when you are 100% certain that at no time (beginning in the production) the part was NEVER exposed to UV light. That might be untrue, that´s why parts also yellow in dark places in sealed sets.

The right one is super stretchy and looks kinda fake. But what about the left one? How to identify fake capes?

Well well, I can think about one of those ER lamps...that have arms and movable...that would be great!

Definitely. But to be honest, you never know if you might sell. So I will restore as best as possible so if I am going to sell, I dont have to go another round.

Recently I stumbled on different of my sets and saw that some sets have stickersheets where stickers are more on it than actually needed. E.g. https://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemInv.asp?S=6653-1 Here you only use the green oder blue ones; but for the stripes you have just two parts that get stickered https://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemInv.asp?S=7668-1 Stickersheet has 6 stickers, you only need 3. I also noticed that some sets here 6653 from above, do have different coloured stickers from the same part. Also when talking about Police stickers, they come in green, blue, black...it´s super confusing for restauration?!

Anyone? :(

Is there an overview for official set and theme names in German language?

Oh wow, so they are really mold marks? They look quite deep also. Like someone pinched them with a sharp knife. I also thought they moved the molding marks to a different point for "newer" parts (reddish brown). I almost wanted to throw those pieces away and order new ones :D

Thought the fading won´t appear on the "newish" colours?

Hi, bought a bulk and those cylinder pieces are all marked almost on the exact spots on every piece. Can someone guess or explain? I dont think it´s a mold injection point? So what happened here? The marking also appears occasionally on other pieces.

Stumbled across those piece I guess left is reddish brown, right is old brown. But this one in the middle? According to bricklink there for this jumper no groove only the two browns were used. So middle one is discoloured?

Yeah, opened some threads about that matter. It probaby matters the most for high price sets? I mean buying an expensive 1970 LEGO set but getting piece from 2024 is probably a little off.

No one can hint? :(

Doesnt work for me and as I plan to sell that figure, I need something more everlasting :(

Hi, I have an expensive minifgure, where I can´t do experiments. But one arm is super loose. What can I do? All tutorials I have found are kind of weird; like putting paper into the torso or applying nail polisher...anyone has a good advice?

Found this bad boy. Three batteries pulled out; contacts corroded. Any chance I can get this boy running again? Or should I let go?

They other part is from a small AT AT from 2003. I have found more dark grey parts and identified through bricklink.com But yes, the railway part is the only one. I am always wondering when buying those bulks how this part gets there by accident. Funny though.

So the question remains, how important is the correct mould in a very expensive set? And how can I find out, which moulds were used... For the clips it is at least shown at bricklink.com. Same goes for open studs or hollow studs. But for bottom tubes there is no info

To understand that correctly my Black Pearl from 2011 should have single plates only with unfilled tubes at the bottom? But what about the bricks? If you say you have 2002 bricks with filled tubes...when was the change?

Thanks for the answer. But can we say when LEGO had only unfilled studs below? That already would help a lot. If they started to mix in 1990s, they probably changed full in ~2000?