Stereo

I mean, it's also easy to calculate that a 1:8 semi truck would be ~8 feet long, 40 studs wide, and probably into the $3000 range

I think that wheel has a larger diameter? Probably the same functionality though. So combination stud & city bar axle hole, then pinhole with 6 spokes that can be an antistud. I tried to scale the pictures the same, which puts it at ~11.5mm to the one on the London Bus being 14mm diameter.

https://rebrickable.com/parts/5809/tyre-14-x-11-slick/ Looks like these tires, with a new technic pinhole wheel? Wider than https://rebrickable.com/parts/42610/wheel-11-x-8-with-center-groove/

Really depends how much friction it has, and how far it has to turn to ratchet to the next step, but a one-way clutch is the central component of a clock so it might allow more compact pendulum clock designs. As long as the spokes are a whole number length it'd probably be fine to rebuild it with thick beams if you want more strength, and use fullsize pins at the hub. They're using the new spoke piece and thin pulley to match aesthetics.

The box logo's in the top left, so diagonally that way works better a lot of the time, though that's another way of saying the same thing, why do we write left to right?

I'm pretty sure it's half pins, with the spoke and wheel parts both being half-thickness pinholes. They mount alternating sides. I can't tell if the wheel piece is symmetrical or if it's also offset to one side so that the two together create a 1 stud thick "beam" shape centered on the wheel.

~30 stud wheel/tire is enormous, might have some interesting GBC applications depending what it looks like under the tire. I like how it uses 12 spokes so it can just go onto a pair of the classic pulleys turned so their holes are 30° different.

The latest ones I have that it does catch on something are the Koenigsegg and Lamborghini. The Bronco and Jeeps of course nothing is that low (it only sticks up 2 studs) That new Mustang's 17 wide so it might just not fit... lower deck's also exactly 17 wide.

When I add new categories I sort it as I look for pieces for something. Like recently I split up my 1x2 modified tiles into subtypes, because I was looking for white 1x2 curved slope with left+right corner wedges. So now I have 1x2 tile with textured top (grilles, slope grilles, ingots) and 1x2 with curved top. Probably get through 60% of the sorting before even finding the pieces I wanted. In general I keep my pieces in a few places, plates+tiles in one stack of drawers, modified bricks+other in another, Technic in a third, basic bricks in a fourth. So when I'm dealing with unsorted Lego due to buying new stuff or taking a build apart, I split it into those categories and then deal with each over time. The basic bricks don't come up a lot in most builds, so I sometimes go through multiple builds before putting them away, and store them in less accessible bins. If I do need a bunch of them I can grab the whole bin and put it in front of the stacks of drawers.

I guess now's a good time to doublecheck that I understand the part equivalence. A bricklink 5306bc036 is 36 studs long, including the plug ends, so 32 studs of wire = 256mm = Fx 9402, right?

Two new buckets at the same size, right? About 3x3 end size, with 2 pinholes for connection, vs. the old larger 5x5 (3 pinholes) and smaller 2x2 (ratchet joint)

Those curve bricks for the headlights don't look terrible, but I don't think I would have chosen white. They're obviously glass over chrome on the actual car, so if not transparent, maybe LBG would look better? 90 degree corner panel on the Dodge front end is cool. Makes the "toilet paper roll" family of panels even more versatile.

They did add this ~5 stud piece (1mm larger) Wheel 68327 in the time since this thread started, in some situations it could be helpful to transition down to regular 4 stud round parts as they fit in the hole.

Mostly no real difference when used as spur gears, but the thin bevels are probably a bit worse as bevels. Larger also better, I've pretty much only had 8 and 12 teeth gears skipping as long as the engagement's ok. With less ideal loose engagement, spur gears might work better, but it's going to be still quite easy to skip.

I suppose you could probe your layout for good feed locations by running a battery-powered (or push) train with a multimeter connected to power pickup wheels. You'd just short the feeder at the power supply end, instead of connecting it, then measure resistance. A dynamometer car that just passively shows the voltage across the rails could be interesting too. Might take a bit of running to get used to interpreting it.